Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks, I sure hope not. Really looking for that nice, confidence inspiring, firm, effortless pedal feel. Am I asking for too much? :lol:
Thanks!
Thanks for taking the time--now get back on yours--SEMA is in a few days...
Call PB--they should have come with your arms if you're using them with a stock crossmember. I think they are set up for use with a Dropmember unless you specify otherwise...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I am patiently waiting on the 1" forward lower a-arm install. Want to see how much they actually move the wheel before I pull the trigger. Great truck and write up!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Coming soon! I figure the wheel will move forward around a half inch or so, due to the position of the spindle between the balljoints--would probably be a little more with stock height spindles... I'm excited to get to that part as well, for not only the looks, but also the driveability. Thanks for the kind words and welcome to the forum :chevy:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Looks killer brother! Great job. I'm hoping my McGaughys turn out half this nice.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Great job it looks great!!!!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks! With your attention to detail, I'm sure they will turn out great.
Thanks! The first one took a few hours longer than anticipated--hopefully have the pass side wrapped up soon...
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Nice to see you back at it, those brakes look good! You almost have me convinced to do it.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

They do look nice--hoping they perform as well. Should know in the next day or two...
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I love this truck! I'm glad I re-stumbled upon this thread again. Awesome progress!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Hey, thanks man! We love it, too :D


Update: WHOLLY SHNIKEYS! This. Thing. STOPS.

After assembling the passenger side, I took her out to rub the paint off the rotors and bed the Hawk HPS pads. The initial impression was a bit lackluster, but I continued with the recommended break-in, then let them cool. Went back out for a follow-up and WOW! These things have some serious bite and the firmness and responsiveness of the pedal feel reminds me of my old C5 'Vette. I may need shoulder harnesses to keep from bouncing my passengers' faces off the dash :)

Amazingly, this is with basically no rear brakes at all--when I went to bleed the fronts, I found the rear reservoir empty--I've known for some time that I had a leaky wheel cylinder, but was putting it off until I got the rear discs swapped in. I dumped a little fluid in, but did not bleed the rears, so their contribution to braking is questionable at best.

No matter, the fronts lock up with ease. It has gone from 'push-and-pray' to 'don't push too hard' :lol: Can't wait to see what four-wheel discs feel like :chevy:

Pic, 'cause you can't have an update without one...

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...30E975B3DE.jpg
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I think your truck deserves some fender emblems.
Maybe a set of Custom emblems.
Not Custom/10,... just Custom,... cause it is so cool.

Love the brake upgrades.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Haha- thanks! I've thought about adding some, but also like the 'slick' look--notice the truck has no side mirrors? I have a hard time deciding what to add that doesn't subtract...
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I have a couple of quick questions. I checked on Kore3's site and those appear to be the hubs for the GM tall spindle? Is that correct? Forgive me if I missed it in a previous post, but what spindle are you using? Is that 5x5 or 5x4.75 bolt pattern? Thanks

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Hey, sorry I missed this before. They are technically made for the B-body cars, specifically Impala SS. The spindle shaft is the same on the 'tall' spindle, late '70s F-bodies, big cars, and light trucks, which is the spindles I have (1" thick rotor Belltech 3" drop). The hubs can be had in 5 or 4.75--mine are 5, just 'cause I already had wheels. Kore3 also offers hubs for the 1.25" thick HD truck rotor spindles, though not on their website. Member Scoti has this setup somewhere in his pile o' parts...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Minor progress today--started assembling the CaptainFab D52 rear disc brakes. QUALITY components. Putting them together was pretty straight-forward, so I'll save you guys the gory details.

Of note: I cut off the backing plate on the driver's side and found that it is not a whole lot easier than just pulling the axles--oh well, live and learn :) Also found my massive wheel cylinder leak that had everything inside the drum soaked; the brake shoes literally fell apart when I pulled the drum...

Before, carnage, and tear-down pics:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Again, really nice stuff. Everything bolted right up, no problems. Nice to have a product that performs as advertised and not have to worry about having sent them out for powder before mock-up. I painted the rotors and calipers the same scheme as the front brakes--I think they turned out well. Part of me wants to paint the calipers red, but I think the subtle grey fits this truck better...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Still have to re-flare the axle hard-lines to mate up with the Kore3 braided lines--if that doesn't work, I'll just bend up some new. I like the end result; looks almost factory :chevy:

In final assembly, I did find that I will need longer wheel studs and that the pad slightly contacts the rotor hub when rolling. Studs are cheap and I should be able to modify the pad backing plate to clear...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Great work as always!
Is there any braking advantage to placing the caliper on the front side of the axle vs the rear side?
I would also be interested in the "longer wheel stud" part number you use.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks! From what I've read, there's no discernible advantage either way--it's just what looked right to me. I did have to swap the calipers to opposite sides to properly orient the bleeders. There are stud part numbers floating around here somewhere, I'll have to do a search. These would get me by, as they're engaging 5.5 threads, but I'd feel more comfortable with a few more turns...
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

A little research found this:

Stock rear stud: Dorman 610-138

Knurl Diameter 0.535
Package Quantity 10
Quick-Start Nose No
Shoulder Length 0.3125
Stud Material Steel
Thread Handling Right Hand Thread
Thread Size 1/2-20
Under Head Length 1.53125
Wheel Stud Style Serrated Stud


Potential replacement: Dorman 610-258

Knurl Diameter 0.536
Package Quantity 10
Quick-Start Nose No
Shoulder Length 0.25
Stud Material Steel
Thread Handling Right Hand Thread
Thread Size 1/2-20
Under Head Length 1.71875
Wheel Stud Style Serrated Stud

So, approx 4 more threads engaged which should be 9.5-10, using the "engage the same depth as diameter" rule, on a 1/2-20 stud- this is just about perfect.
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks for the Dorman parts numbers.
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

NP! FYI, I checked the application on those studs and its what GM used on the Cadillac rear discs in the late '70s, so I think we have a winner :chevy:
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

nice work as always. I couldn't tell for sure from the pics...but it looked like there's no inner or outer parking brake. Are you running w/o, did I miss something, or do you have something else in mind?

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Looking good, nice work!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

No parking brake for now. The brackets accept 76-78 Eldorado calipers if I decide I want one.
Thanks! Chipping away...

In related news, I picked up a 610-258 at the LAPS-- doesn't look like they will be long enough, so on to the next plan, whatever that is...
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Just curious. There are trans tailshaft and rear axle pinion type p-brakes that attach to the d-shaft.

http://www.dojodesign.com/toyota/cha...ansmission.jpg

http://tsmmfg.com/003-1.jpg

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I've had that thought, too. Hard to find an affordable pinion option. Who makes those you posted? What's the cost like? I can upgrade to the Eldo calipers for a couple hun.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Ok, studs. The stockers are too short for the discs, the other replacements aren't much longer, so the third option is a F*rd part.

Dorman 610-298

Type : Serrated Stud
Thread : 1/2-20
Knurl Dia. : .547"
Length : 2"
Shoulder Length : 11/16"


I grabbed one of each from the LAPS for comparison:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Length comparisons. I will have to slightly enlarge the axle holes to fit the .547 knurl of the longer studs, but I can live with that. Also may have to use long lug nuts or trim the speed-start tips...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Couldn't say...just did a few keyword searches. :lol:

Seems the 9" has the most options. I'm guessing captainfab could come up with something for our 12 bolts tho!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

nice job !!! i personally like the calipers on that gray on your truck !!!!!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Nice build man. I may be late but never to late to subscribe.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks! I'm pretty happy with the grey, but part of me wants to show off a little. Red calipers only look good clean, though, and this thing gets driven...
Thanks! Welcome aboard :chevy:
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Okey-doke. Finally wrapped up the brake install. Got the '70 Corvette master cylinder and combo valve mounted. The new studs also worked out perfectly for the rear; I didn't even have to drill, they pressed right in and give 13-14 turns of the lugnut before they're snug.

Boring pic sorry, but after my wife helping bleed the lines and bedding-in the rear pads, this beast STOPS! Calling this part of the project done :) Next up, lower control arms and steering linkage...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

where's the pix of the master and valve ?

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Sorry I missed your comment--been doing the family thing and spending time chasing down a possible new project--I need a 67-72 that I can haul the family in ;)

Shot some pics just for you :D So, after installing my expensive, custom 1" bore master cylinder and having basically no pedal feel and loooooong travel, combined with poor stopping, I swapped to a '70 Corvette power brakes 1.125" deep bore style I picked up at the LAPS. Painted 'er up with the same Eastwood grey I used on the calipers; it bolted right up to the booster and my existing lines screwed right in. Works like a charm--pedal feel returned and it locks 'em up no problem. The combination valve is a CPP unit that I picked up on eBay for cheap. All the lines screwed right into it as well, thanks to GM standardization.

Crappy, night-time, cell-phone pics- sorry, it doesn't like to focus at night...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

[QUOTE=gringoloco;5718943]Sorry I missed your comment--been doing the family thing and spending time chasing down a possible new project--I need a 67-72 that I can haul the family in ;)

cool , so i take it we are looking for a sub then !!!!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I vote for a blazer for the family project...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Well, you're both right, kinda. I started out looking for a Sub, since its the logical family hauler choice. I like the look of them slammed, but while looking around some, I showed a few to my wife, who made a face like she smelled something awful. When I showed her a Blazer, it was "ooh, that's nice". She also told me she knows how much I miss my old Blazer (I tell her so every time I come across a picture of it, or see a nice one at a show), so we're leaning more towards a Blazer at this point. I'd like to find a nice 2wd, but will settle for the right 4wd that I can later convert :devil:

More to come :)
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Just cant get the Blazer out of the memory bank EY!!!!! I know of a couple that are decent.