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Nice job Mike, sucky about the back man hope you feel better. I thought we'd need 2 fans for our booth also but one set to high did a great job.

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You guys are getting me to want to build my own booth and spray something!!!! Can't wait to see more Mike! Hope the back heals up!

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I was feeling a bit better and getting board so i did some more, i did take today off work too... probably not the best move i ever made as i have two more work days to go. :lol:

Got a tarp under the booth and started the plastic on 2 sides and the top, pulled the plastic under the walls to the inside and tapped up on the bottom and door opening, also the large door is covered.

I'm kinda surprised at the duct tape i bought while at Harbor Freight, its some really sticky stuff!

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Intently following along this is great!! I need to do the rockers and floor in mine and learing a lot from your thread.

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With the exception of adding the plastic on the floor the booth looks to be done, side door is operational its right to the right of the filters, fan and filter installed on the large wall door, simple latches to keep it tight to the weather strips, i had to pull the blue tarp out from underneath as it was interfering with being able to swing open the big wall door. I got that second fan yesterday but not sure i'll need it.

Still uncertain what air flow is necessary, don't want too much or too little. Right now with the fan on high i can feel a draft on the back of my hand when standing in the center of the booth

Back is still a little out of whack so not doing much, another chiro trip tomorrow in the works..

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Good job Mike way better than what we did for our frame painting.

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Looks good Mike !!!! Too good to be temporary !!!! "LOL"

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Looks great, Mike. Something you might want to rig up prior to using this fine contraption is the ability to switch the fan on and off from both the inside and the outside of the booth. That way the fan can be off when entering or leaving the box since you don't have an airlock. And lights... lotsa light! Being of advanced age, that's a must have for me (maybe not so much for you) but it sure helps to see spots you may have missed. Good luck!

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So the switch is inside, the cord plug is outside, I was thinking i would just shut the fan off before i step outside but again i know not what i'm doing... So a little hand door or opening so i can reach in and turn the fan on or off??

Oh, I did give in and bought a HF spray gun and the mixable 2 part epoxy, I hope this nozzle size 1.4 is ok? I seem to recall something about maybe needing a 1.8 or 2.0?? Vic i recall you telling me what gun to get but when i was there i didn't have the info..

The spray can of epoxy i have will be used outside on the floor and rockers on a nice day.

Following Huggers advice on the paint forum i also bought a digital thermometer to make sure the metal is up to temp for proper adhesion.

One last thing, MY setup is as follows, compressor, pipe manafold, 2 inline milton oil/water seperators, then my hose reel. I moved the one seperator on the left in the last pic to having them both after the manifold, its an old pic but just wanted to show the manifold. i'm hoping that this setup is enough to prevent any fish eye problems?

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Brett and Gary, I know its kinda fancy and probably could have tryed draping plastic around the area but if you were to look at what is on the other side of my garage you would insist on zero overspray.. LOL!

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ok I will bite!!! Whats on the other side of the Garage???

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Mike I think 1.4 tip is fine for epoxy. That is what I used. The 1.8 or 2.0 are more for the high build primers.

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I agree, two part epoxies are a little runnier than the 2K primers so you can get away with a 1.4 tip. It just takes a bit longer to spray out the material so you'll want to mind the pot life if you squirt it on a warm day.

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Question: I know there are different grades of light, which would be best for the booth?
T8 32-Watt Daylight (6500K)
T8 32-Watt Cool White (4100K)
T8 32-Watt Neutral

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Due to the overwhelming response ( :) ) of my last question I went ahead and opted for the 32 watt Daylight because the lighting guy at Home Depot said they were the brighter of all the T8 bulbs in the display, I will compare them to what i have hanging on my ceiling and go from there..

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When it comes to fluorescent lights, the daylight is probably as good as it gets. I've replaced 4/6 of the fluorescent lights in my workshop with LED's and would do the other two if I wasn't such a cheapskate. The LED's are much brighter and don't have the greenish hue like the fluorescent.

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Good choice I'm pretty sure you got the brightest ones from your list. We use the T8 4100K (cooler the temp longer they last?) cause they were the best deal and I needed about a bazillion of them! :lol:

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So i don't mind saying that i feel like the blind leading the blind here, I keep hearing don't sand blast because it can warp the panels, i know this is true on big surfaces like hoods and bed sides, roofs ect.

I'm looking at my front fender, the inside of it, it looks impossible to hand sand little lone even paint inside the horn and behind supports ect, i did take a brush with my rust treatment ( link below) and brushed it on all the looks and cranny's, down in the horn ect, there was some surface rust but no cancer needing to be cut out.

http://www.gemrustkiller.com/

I have Black Diamond Med coal slag blast media.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pro...s?cm_vc=-10005

I still have yet to do anything to the inside of the fender, don't know if i should blast the whole fender? Or just blast the inside where i can't sand? Or should i just clean it up with my bantam motor and coat it with POR15? I know i cannot get into the horn with my paint gun.. Wondering how to approach the inside of the fender without opening up too much of a can of worms?

We have had 3 day record breaking temperature, you would think i would have gotten a lot done but too much on the plate...... At least i have lights in the booth now.

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IMO it really depends on the project as to whether you blast or not. New thin metal with no issues that only has factory paint of course you would scuff and shoot. 45+ year old truck where you can't get everywhere you do your best and hope it's good enough. Someone who knows what they are doing can blast panels with the appropriate media keep the heat down and do a really nice job. We'd blast the smaller stuff at home and send the big stuff out. I'd also ask around to find out who the body shops are using for that kind of work.

We have a guy here who runs a body/restoration shop they had a need and bought the equipment. In the beginning it was mainly just for his body shop but grew to a point that they will do just the blast work. Pretty sure that's where we will take the K30 cab whether they paint it or not.

As to the inside of your fender I'd clean it as best you can and seal with your product of choice. When we did the rear quarters on our 66 SS Impala I had my buddy POR15 everything he could get to before installing the panels. Car is now gone but for over 10 years we never saw any issues with the body work.

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Question for those who have used H/F spray guns, after reading the instructions i made a wrench and removed the tip of the gun and found what i thought was white paint, the rest of the gun has no trace of paint just a few very light scratches in the anodize so i continued to remove the needle and it has a light clear grease looking substance on it, looking closer i think the white stuff may be a latex or silicone caulk.

If you used a H/F gun did you also have this white stuff? should i completely remove it or leave it, i would hate to think i have to leave it to keep the thing from leaking..

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Yes and yes I would and did remove that stuff.

Check out (suffer through :lol:) this Youtube video http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=...81A4&FORM=VIRE

I did use some Teflon tape that had to be redone every time I took the gun apart for cleaning.

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Same here. The white stuff is Teflon paste you can use to seal threads in lieu of the tape. A bit messier, but no strings attached. I cleaned mine and didn't replace the sealant and never had a problem, but using the tape is extra insurance. Always a good idea to thoroughly disassemble and wash a new gun to remove any potential contaminants and check that all the little seals and gaskets are in place. After reassembly, I put some wash thinner in the gun and adjust the pressure and fluid pattern to get it close before mixing paint.

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Thanks guys! I assume paint thinner or mineral spirits are good enough to clean the gun, i have never done anything but rattle cans or house paint with brush and roller.

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Most autobody supply houses stock a generic "wash thinner" that's a recycled grade of lacquer thinner. You can usually buy it in either one or five gallon cans. Lot less expensive than the thinners / reducers used for mixing paint. I prefer to at least partially disassemble a gun after a spray job. By that I mean pull apart the fluid nozzle and tip, the air cap and break apart the joint where the cup attaches. I have several small brushes I use to scrub the fluid passageways. After cleaning the components with the wash thinner and brushes, blow dry with compressed air and reassemble. The last thing I do is put a small amount of fresh wash thinner in and spray it out to make sure the gun is adjusted and ready for use. Just make sure all the wash thinner is out before loading the next batch of primer or paint. Even a small amount of lacquer thinner can cause some paints to clabber up and become unusable.

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Thanks Vic! Great point about readjusting the gun with the wash thinner too, by having the wash thinner all out do you just mean spray it out and let the air dry its self out right?

And the latest holdup, been a little depressed, spent weds-fri with my left arm in a sling, something in my shoulder went rip, have an appt at the orthopedic place this Wednesday to evaluate, they will probably send me to get an MRI to see if it needs surgery, if they recommend it I'll do it, if not I won't but I think it's tendon. Still using it carefully and working but it don't feel too good when moved certain ways. I got to say sometimes I wish I didn't spend the 15 some odd years racing dirt bikes and all the other crap I did when I was younger cause I'm surely paying for it now, seems like every time I get on a roll with the truck something happens.
Oh, it's been raining a lot outside, I may have to go buy a 10 X 10 to sand my parts under

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Yep, just make sure the wash thinner is out before reloading the gun with the good stuff.

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Any real need to sand beyond the original paint or the primer that was used before my truck and was repainted?

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Ok darned it all, i let my shoulder heal until i could hardly feel it anymore when moving it, so i decided to give it a go today, started sanding but i decided i needed to blast a couple places with my speed blaster so i got it out, then i needed to get my 5 gal bucket of sand off the shelf, so as careful as i could with both arms i picked up the bucket and started to make the turn to put it on my work table, and rippppp! ripped my left shoulder again! I have an MRI scheduled for tomorrow morning.

Anyway i was pissed enough to continue so I blasted a few places i couldn't sand and a couple places with surface rust, Then welded 3 holes that were drilled for the old running boards, called it a day cleaned up and sitting here with an ice pack on the shoulder again. Didn't take another picture but almost all the paint has been sanded off.

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Dang just when the weather is good. Heal quick!
Been w/o a workable shoulder a few times, feel your pain. MRI ugh. now don't move!

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Sorry to hear Mike my oldest boy has had a lot of shoulder trouble over the years hoping you heal quickly.

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Sorry to hear about your shoulder. That's a real bummer.

It's up to you on how far to take the old paint off on your project. I prefer to sand it down to bare metal. That way I know exactly what is under my primer and paint.
It's more time consuming and uses more sandpaper but it's worth in my opinion.
I used that same cheapy HF paint gun to do a bunch of primer on mine. Watch the videos on yourtube. Those were a good help

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I left the fender in the booth for about 2 days, checked it with the inferred thermometer today about 10:30, it was 65 on one end and 63 on the other, i rigged up a sheet of plastic and draped it over a couple stand alone heaters about 2-3 ft from the intake filters and fired them up, the temp on the fender went up to 75 on one end and 73 on the other in about 30 minutes, long as it doesn't go over 75 i have the heat situated.

Moisture on the other hand, had to back up and do a bit of re rigging today and cleaned out one of my water traps that is collecting a good amount of rust from my pipe manifold, I can see now how some good copper piping would be a benefit but hoping to get by for now, still have about 100' of air hose after the dual water traps, then added an in line air dryer, then another 50' of hose to the gun, tomorrow i need to drain the tank.

Still taking it easy as much as i can but every time i turn around i end up yanking my shoulder, Dr appt with a surgeon this coming Wednesday to discuss the MRI.

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Jerry rigging at its finest, the pic is sideways, sorry. Oh yea it's cramped in there! Wonder about hanging the fender grill side up? May try it but not sure how well the 2x2's will support the weight of the fender.

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So a little update, I have come to Hate Franciscan healthcare!

Origional injury was 4-20, i get a referal to see the orthopedic place on 4-25, i call and make an appt, they always first have you see a nurse practitioner, able to get in 4-27, she sends an order for an MRI, MRI appt on 5-3, on 5-4 the MRI has been reviewed by the actual Ortho Dr. the next day, they call and schedule an appt on 5-11, I get there and review the MRI with the DR. her says he wants to refer me to a better Ortho surgeon.... :( That appt is 5-23......

So this Dr that i did see is a good Dr but not a shoulder specialist, why did they refer me to him in the first place? Then why after he reviewed the MRI did he have me schedule an appt with him? why not just refer me on to the next DR?? Guess he needed to make his BMW payment or something.. ???

So this is how things go with Franciscan, i could have called and made my own appt with a specialist at a different place that i usually go for anything else, i regret i didn't do so, but i do hear the DR i am going to see is suppose to be really good with shoulders so hopefully things will work out.

Diagnosis: Severed Bicep tendon, torn but not severed rotator cup tendons, arthritis in the shoulder joint, bone spurs. I hate getting old LOL! Anyway i have been healing slowly, i did re injure the thing 4 times total since the original tear but i think i am over that hurdle now. I can move it every way except when my arm is straight out i cant raise it above my shoulder without pain, able to pick up some weight but i'm not going to try and find out how much....


If there is any paint guys out there i'm trying to figure something out. The paint supply place says i have 2 choices for a Single Stage paint in the 518 Med Green color code, altho they say its now called Meadow Green. One is a DCC that is a Urethane base, the other is Delstar that is an acrilic Enamel base, my main goal is to paint the inner kick panels, floor after repair, the door jambs and the inner part of the front fender at the top where you see the color. They said whatever i choose the rest of the truck will have to be painted with the same paint...

Which paint should i choose? does it matter? I am assuming the stock color is Single Stage.

Planning on doing some primer tomorrow, finally.

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Sounds like you're getting on the right track with your shoulder problems. Hope you get back to 100% soon.

As for the paint, there are several options. Most modern cars are shot with a basecoat/clearcoat system. The base is typically a urethane that uses either water or a conventional reducer to thin it to the consistency needed for spraying. It is unable to resist weathering, so it must be topcoated with a catalyzed urethane clear. Thus the designation BC/CC. This is the most expensive approach as it requires the most materials.

For what is called a single stage paint, you can choose between acrylic urethane or acrylic enamel. Both can be sprayed without a catalyst, but the cure time is much longer and the finish much softer than with a catalyst. The urethane is typically a little tougher and longer lasting, but also more expensive. These finishes can be repaired and even buffed if they are catalyzed, but I don't recommend it. A properly applied single stage paint can have a very nice gloss without a lot of orange peel. An improperly applied single stage can wrinkle, run, attract dust nibs from 50 feet away and in general, look like crap... and then be nearly impossible to fix.

That said, there is no reason you couldn't shoot a single stage paint on the kick panels, floors and etc. It would save some money and labor. Depending on how you mask the door jambs, a catalyzed acrylic urethane won't react negatively where it butts up or slightly overlaps a BC/CC. But if you want to be 100% safe, do like the paint store says and stick with one system.

And we'll need pictures, of course!

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I used to use arylic enamal, ditzler, acme, dupont, nathan single stage years ago. I like single stage paint.

Do they even still make acrylic enamal anymore? Im in Calif right now and you cant get it here.

All ive seen is the single stage urathane.

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MY garage smells like paint thinner....

Tried to think the whole process thru before i started, it is cramped in there and no matter how i set it up getting both ends is near impossible. Also I couldn't find my old safety glasses so had to use non prescription, not being able to see clearly didn't help me that much.

First pic, after painting i noted the gun tip seems to be spraying uneven? all the passageways were clear when i pre cleaned and inspected a few weeks back.. Pattern was a fat football shap.

I seemed to have a problem getting the paint to flow as much as i wanted, i was able to increase the flow a little but felt it needed more than i could adjust, I contemplated stopping and re reading the gun manual but opted to continue, hopefully that was not a mistake.

I tried hanging the part and put a swivel on it, it helped to be able to access the whole fender but it was a pain to have to keep a finger on it to keep it from spinning.

Will need to coat it again, think i'll probably have it horazontal and do one side at a time next.

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Regrouped for round 2, paint flowed much better, abandoned the hanging approach for one side at a time, looks like I have a little dust issue or cold this possibly be paint splatter? Doing one side I miss judged on the amount of paint to mix so had to make another smaller batch to finish.

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Another

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One more, got to figure out how to keep this from happening. Will do a final coat on the inside tomorrow.