Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Skymangs, thanks for the input. Its a relief to know that there are no major electrical horrors lurking in wait for me. I agree with keeping an in-dash ignition switch as a column ignition looks funny in an old truck (at least to me it does), and my Fargo is a ‘46 so it would definately look out of place. I am also not strictly adhering to original parts, rather I am trying to keep “the period correct flavour”, so using chevrolet switches and bezels is just fine with me. As long as they all match, and have that old look I will be happy. Despite having researched the crap out of this swap for the past couple of years, I realize that there is still going to be a ton of stuff to figure out. If only this information was available in a book !!!!! ;)

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

good luck my friend, you are embarking on an adventure! I wish I could go with, but I have my own projects and what not. Any questions along the way, don’t hesitate to ask. That’s what this thread is for!and it’s about to be available in a book, 5 more months.

Be sure to start a thread and send me a link

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

the 1994 S10 is a one year only s10 that still uses a round column (like the older style) and no airbag steering wheel.

I would have my doubts if the turn signal wiring would be the exact same between 1994 and 1996 but using a 1994 s10 column would still be the way I would approach it. same with the wiper wiring, but not a lot of chance of integrating that to the AD anyway. Keep in mind that the hazard and brake functions depend a lot on the wiring of the turn signal switch and column and brake switch wiring. if you plan to keep cruise, the cruise system changed in 1995, different PPM and a different cruise switch protocol too.

also, keep in mind that passlock II (the key security used in 98+ trucks) does not have a chip in the key either, just regular steel keys, cut at any hardware store. the "chip" is in the column and relies on the key being turned correctly and bumping the chip signal switch at the right position of the key turn. your 96 doesnt have that, but I wanted to say that for the future readers with a 98 column that say "well I just have a regular steel key too".

on the gauges, the battery warning light is part of the charging circuit, if you take out the old gauges you may need to jump a wire to get the alternator to charge. this is the same all the way through 2003, I usually keep the entire original cluster installed in the dash for my 1998+ swaps because if the PCM doesnt "see" the cluster it sets a check engine code.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

that being said, even the pre 94 column is ugly. I do aftermarket columns all the time. If you must have cruise, a $20 eBay with wired in works fine.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Great info again! Hopefully my wiring won’t be too hard to figure out as my donour S10 is very basic, and I strongly prefer this. I will not have cruise or any power options like windows, locks, seats, etc. The AC compressor is missing from my donour truck but that’s fine as the summer temps here where I live will only break 90 degrees a couple of times per season, and probably average more like 80. As well, its a rural area so there is no “bumper to bumper” traffic. The big issue here is parts. Our wrecking yards are there to make money, so they don’t tend to hang on to older vehicles. Because of how fast cars rust out here, finding early 90’s S10’s for parts is tough. The wrecking yards don’t like keeping stuff that old as nobody is driving them here anymore. An aftermarket column will be my solution to that problem (and they look more original), but the info on the passlock system was good to know. By sheer stupid luck, the property I live on came with a late 90’s Blazer that had been used as a field truck by the previous owners, so I have spare parts coming out my ears. This will be a major bonus, as the price of parts in Canada is horrendous. Typically its double whatever you pay in the States.

I am looking for a site to post a thread on my Fargo build, and if I find one I like I will post a link. I will however be asking more questions here, as there is no better place to get quick and accurate information on S10 swaps anywhere. As always, thanks for the great tech tips and the words of encouragement!

Stephan

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

You can start your thread right here on the Projects and Builds forum. I’m looking forward to seeing this come together!

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

There have been a bunch of beating me up about selling cab brackets! Well my version 1, 2, and 3 cab brackets as well as my running board brackets are for sale on my website, have been for the better part of a month. Here’s a link http://www.olesargecustoms.com/products.html

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Chris, best of luck with the brackets, you have helped so many with your builds, prior to the accident. Keep the faith brother...Jim

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I have not seen any mention of carpet here, so I thought I'd ask. I still have my original seat riser in place, but since I did the S10 swap I have no need for the cut outs in the carpet where the various pedals were. (I do still have the high beam switch but that is easy enough to burn a hole for). Has anyone found a good carpet source for this swap?

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

chris I wish you all the best man. helped me for sure.


tlorber I just buy carpet and jute padding from yourautotrim. pretty good stuff. the floors are flat, I think I even put measurements in my latest thread

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I just do it for the love of old cars!

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

It may not be an A.D., but here’s my current build. An 84 K-10 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=797542

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I am in the process of swapping a 1991 Chevy S10 4.3L V6 in my 1954 Chevy 3600. I am unclear about what to do with the heater hoses. My thinking is to run the hose from the intake manifold to the heater core and run a hose down from the heater core to a “T” connection at the radiator return line.

Does that make sense? Any help and guidance is appreciated.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

are yoo using the s10 radiator? I would recommend springing for the universal 19x22, way less work than cutting up the sheet metal, and looks way better too!

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

the heater return line runs to the factory s10 rad, so its clear why you are wondering what to do when you dont use that piece. but dont fret, there is a plug on the water pump? maybe its the thermostat housing, I dont remember but you take out that plug, its a big allen wrench to take it out, and install a barbed fitting and there you go.

I had to do it on my 1991 s10 4.3, and I cant find the picture because of "photosuckit", but thats exactly what I did.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

oh, are you wanting to convert? the plug is in the wp. just pull it and replace want a 1/2" nipple.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Joedoh I appreciate the information. I'll take a good look at the water pump and thermostat housing.

Skymangs, I read a lot about the radiator in this thread and took your advice on an aftermarket radiator with appropriate dimensions. I can't imagine the carnage that would result from trying to get a stock S10 radiator into the AD truck.

Thanks for the help!

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

you'd be surprised, some people will try anything to save a buck!

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Hey skymangs, that's not fair. There may be a part cost savings by using the S10 radiator, but, there is a labor cost of modifying the front inner fenders and building the standoff to hold the radiator to make it fit. I personally don't see that as trying to save a buck. Everyone may not want to do that, and that is OK, but I for one think it's a great idea and will be using the S10 radiator when and if I can get started on my build. Clay

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

haha I use the s10 radiator on every build, it doesnt have anything to do with saving a buck because most times I will buy a NEW S10 radiator that costs more than the speedway radiator. I do it because:

1. (this is the big one for me) the speedway radiator lower outlet is cocked towards the crank pulley, that combined with the height the speedway rad sits at means I would need an electric fan, the engine fan would cut the lower hose in half using the speedway rad. I think the reliability of an aftermarket electric fan system is suspect, using the clutch mechanical fans is more reliable to me.

2. the stock s10 rad has a trans cooler already set up to take the lines from the 4l60e. knowing the probability of a system failure goes UP the more you touch the system, I like being able to plug the trans cooler in with no added unions. the speedway rad has no trans cooler, so you will need an external trans cooler (wait till you see how people save a buck on trans coolers!) although on the last one I did splice in some extensions.

3. the overall width is wider than the AD core support BUT the core width is almost the same size as the opening.

4. it is a cross flow, so I can use the stock expansion system. (the speedway is a cross flow too)


the carnage is almost nothing of note, I trim out two pockets, one on each side for the end tanks, and bend up some sheetmetal to close the pockets back in, then put a piece on the bottom that has holes for the stock rad mount bushings. the stock S10 AC condenser also fits, and the hood shuts perfectly. I dont solid mount my front clip, I use outrigger mounts to the AD core support on stock S10 bushings, so I am in the same area welding anyway.

its not a cost savings thing, its a better solution for my 4.3 trucks. potato potatto, to each his own.


roaburto, I found the plug I took out of my 91 today, in the drawer of my toolbox.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

no offence meant gentlemen. I prefer to do mine differently. I think for the novice the universal is easier and IMHO looks cleaner,

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

none taken, lots of ways to do this and you are definitely a pioneer of putting these together.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I finally got a chance to work on the truck. That plug was on the top of the water pump just like you said. I can check that off my list.

Thanks so much.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

you Sir, have definitely contributed more than your fair share to this thread!

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I am going to try to appeal to everyones generous side. Help us have a great 2020! We really need this equipment! Every donation helps regardless of size. You know I’m crazy about these trucks. Help me out.

https://www.gofundme.com/f/help-ole-...cp+share-sheet

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

This was the exact thing I found when unboxing the speedway radiator. My issue was the belt for the passenger side alternator.

The quick fix was to cut off the outlet and reweld it to give just enough clearance.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Anyone use flowtech gm universal L.S. stainless headers with the S10 frame? Part # 42511575flt.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

with all the variations in how people mount the body (4-6" off the frame) and where they mount the engine (high, low, forward, back) you might just have to try them yourself and report how they fit.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

They look like they’ll fit tight to the block so it should work.

Expect to work with how your motor sits in the engine bay.
I had to modify my mounts a few times adjusting the motor height and setback to have the right fan/distributor/header clearances. It’s a balancing act so don’t get frustrated when it doesn’t fit the first time.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

for those that have done the s10 swap, and did an LS also. Would a set of off the shelf s10 LS conversion mounts work?

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I’m confused about the S10 body bushings and am hoping that someone can help me out. I need to buy the bushings for the cab only, and was going to order the Dorman stock replacement bushings model 924-181. The description says these will fit “body positions 2 and 3” which I assume means the cab bushings ( front and rear), as the bushings for the radiator cradle are clearly different. My donor S10 is a 1996 regular cab long box. When I removed the old cab bushings, I saw that the front cab mount & bushing is different from the rear cab mount & bushing. Here is what I have on my truck.


This is the front cab mount and bushing. The cab mount has a fairly large steel insert tube that encases the bushing, and the bushing diameter is about 1 ¾ inch (which fits the 2 inch holes I cut in my custom mounts with a bit of wiggle room).

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...7fa68614_c.jpg


This is the rear cab mount and bushing. The mount simply has a round hole in it (no steel tube), and the bushing diameter is a fair bit smaller ( way too small for the 2 inch hole I cut in my custom mounts).


https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...b6ec1874_c.jpg


Perhaps I am missing something obvious (in which case I apologize in advance), but can anyone explain to me what’s going on?

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

they should, if they are the adjustable type. I havent done an LS but I have done a few s10 swaps and with the 4.3 the engine needs to move back about 7 inches, the SBC needs to move back about 4 inches. I dont know where the LS engine side mounts are in respect to the block (or in respect to either the 4.3 or SBC) but I will bet that if the LS needs to move forward in an S10 engine bay it will need to move back in the AD bay, so getting some conversion mounts with some wiggle room in them is what you need to do.




dont apologize, and dont worry about it being smaller diameter, as long as the outer diameter is bigger than the hole you cut it will not move around.

this is the same way people feel about lug nuts, the clamping force is what keeps a hub and wheel together, not (just) the lug seat.

so in this case, the sideways forces are resisted by the friction of the flat surfaces together, clamped with both the weight of the cab and the through bolt. I actually cut my holes oversize too and use that fudge room to move a cab around and get it perfect on the frame.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

In my experience all 4 should be the steel bushing. That’s what I’ve always used. Are you building a 50 and older or a 51 and later? Because the 51 and later requires core support bushings in the rear.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Joedoh, thanks! Skymangs, my build is the '46 Fargo. I had always assumed that all 4 factory cab bushings would be the same as the websites for ordering new ones do not differentiate between front and rear cab mounts. They simply say "fits body positions 2 and 3". I was surprised when I finally examined the ones that came with my truck and realized they were different. I suppose I will just order 4 of the the Dorman 924-181 and hope for the best. Thanks!

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

the upper steels will fit any of the mounts

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I used off-the-shelf SBC 350 conversion mounts for my S10. Worked just fine. Theres a small amount of forward/backward movement and you'll need to get a new drive shaft anyway if you're doing an engine swap.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

For anyone who may be interested, Ole Sarge Customs is having it’s Grand Re-opening on May 16th, from 1-6pm. Free BBQ, check out our builds! here is the link to the Facebook event https://www.facebook.com/events/619592388589260/

And the book will be published and available for purchase in November!

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Please don't forget to tell us WHERE and how much for the book. I can't wait to get one!

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I don’t know yet how much, but it will be available on Amazon. As soon as I know you will. And thanks, I hope to help many enthusiasts with this book!

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I was asked to post this how to in this thread.

Frenched headlights
First you remove the headlights and buckets in preparation for the new buckets