Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Here’s what the kit comes with, costs about $180 on eBay. Second pic is the kit assembled

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Then the fender holes were trimmed out to fit the buckets.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

The buckets were then very carefully fit and aligned

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Some more pics

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Then they were welded around the outside and ground down

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Obviously my son needs a lesson in the art of body filler, but it will work out fine

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

we first filled the weld with All Metal, and then skimmed it with Evercoat

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Fantastic work !

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Thanks lgh1157

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

The finished product

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

More pics

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

A quick (and hopefully easy) question regarding the S10 swap steering hookup. I am trying to connect the base of my S10 column to the steering box, and I have a nice, straight, interference free route between the two points, with the exception of one spot. My power steering pump low pressure fitting is directly in the path of the steering shaft:



https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...c9cc3ecb_c.jpg



I realize that I can route the shaft either under or above that fitting, but that would require another universal joint, along with a heim joint and support bracket to the frame. It would be neater (and far cheaper) to slightly move the power steering pump fitting. Has anyone modified that power steering pump steel tube to point in another direction, and if so, how did you do it? It seems to be permanently affixed where it enters the reservoir, and I know that if I just try to bend it I will end up with a kinked or cracked line. Any advice from the sages?

Stephan

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I have never kinked or cracked the return line moving it slightly out of the way, I cant say you wont either but that is mild steel tube and only needs a bit of tweaking. when I bend a line I usually find a rod of the same diameter to stick in the tube and that keeps kinking to a minimum.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I hate to tell you this, but the simplest solution is to reposition your Motor to clear!

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Haha! Thank god I followed the S10 How To and set that drivetrain off to the passenger side or I would be doing something like that!!!!

Joedoh, thanks for the tip. I will give it a try, and if I botch it I have another pump in my parts Blazer to try it again!

The Fargo I am doing is quite different from the AD trucks, and this column and the brake assembly has been quite a chore. I do however believe I have sorted things out and will update my build once I see if it all works.

Stephan

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

good luck buddy!

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

you wont botch it. that hardline needs to come out all different angles on different engines, I bought a new reservoir once and in the box it tells you to gently reposition the hardline if needed. the reservoir the same part for a bunch of cars and trucks.

it takes longer to get psyched up to do something like this than it does to just do it. :lol:

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I have changed my running board bracket design to make it easier for the novice to accomplish. These work for my shorter mounts. For the taller design just make the 1.5” square tubs 3” longer and weld right to the bottom of the frame. This is for the 118” S10 chassis.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Schematic didn’t post

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Now you’ll have to notch the brackets for the lip on the board. Holes are a 1/4” straight through, and then 1” holes on the bottom (for socket clearance). Hardware is 1/4x3/4 zinc carriage bolts washers and lock nuts.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Now if you’re building a longbed on the 123” ext cab S10 and use the aforementioned brackets, your rear bracket will hang in space because the frame starts to curve up. You’ll need to substitute this for your rear bracket.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

This is a 1949 GMC longbed we are working on.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

In an earlier post, it was suggested (I believe by Skymangs) to use a mid 90’s Ford Explorer plate style transmission cooler for the S10 swap while using the Speedway universal 19x22 radiator (which has no trans cooler) for the 4.3 engine. I don’t have easy access to wrecking yards here, but I just noticed that Rockauto has very good prices on these things, and a large selection. I will likely order one of theirs, but I want to ensure that I get a big enough unit. Can anyone advise the approximate dimensions of the Explorer trans cooler? I will use this as a guide for ordering mine.

Thanks

Stephan

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

The explorer cooler is about 7x10 IIR. Hope that helps!

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

As always, a quick and accurate reply, Skymangs! Now that I have your undivided attention, is there an electric radiator fan controller kit that you routinely use? I am looking at either the Hayden 3653 (adjustable mechanical type with a capillary tube sensor that slips into the rad hose) or the Hayden 3647 (adjustable electronic type with a sensor that slips in between the rad fins).

Stephan

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I don’t like those adjustable ones (never really trusted them) I use a thermostatic switch that screws into a water jacket 195* on/180* off.
Available on eBay for around $8. Wire the ground wire of the fan to the switch.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

if you’re doing the ext cab chassis and longbed AD. The wb is 2.5” to long. Flipping the rear springs will shorten it up 1.25”,the other 1.25” needs to come out of the splashgaurds. The best place to cut is immediately behind the curve. Remove 1.25”.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I have a wiring question for the S10 swap gurus. I am using a 1996 S10 4.3 automatic transmission with PCM 16244210 as my donour and I have retained everything in its original form. I will be using the original wiring harness as it's in perfect shape, and since everything was left alone it should be “plug and play”. The harness is however huge, and my build (1946 Fargo) is tight for space. The harness contains all kinds of stuff that I don’t need, so I would like to carefully thin it out, removing anything that I don’t need to have there. My concern is that I remove something that is actually used by the PCM to run the drivetrain. I don’t care if I remove something that just causes a warning light (like the wiring for the seatbelt warning light), but I do care if I do something that interferes with the proper operation of the drivetrain, which is 100% stock, including all emissions systems.

Here are the wiring sections I would like to remove.
-Radio & speakers
-ABS brake module (the wires going between this and the PCM are huge!)
-Airbag, airbag sensors and airbag module (which sits in passenger kick panel)
-Front wheel speed sensors
-Seatbelt warning light wires
-A/C pump wires
-Heater blend door actuator
-Cruise control wires (the S10 didn’t have cruise control but the wires are there)
-All excess light bulb wires and all trailer towing harness wires

If I can get rid of this stuff, my harness will be far simpler and easier to install. Any input regarding PCM issues with these deletions would be appreciated!

Stephan

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Nothing you have listed is required by the PCM, you’re good to remove all of it.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Thanks Skymangs! I was testing the system a bit today, and so far everything appears OK. The more I look at that harness, the more stuff I find that can get removed. I will post the results when I'm all done.

Stephan

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

cool. The only things the PCM reads are the basic engine sensors, anything else can be removed.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

do you need to remove the wiring? when I do a truck that has s10 power window and lock harnesses that run into the door, I just cut it at the harness branch and tape it up in the harness.

1996 is a one year only truck the ABS is in the PCM. I dont know if removing it or the wiring causes problems but I do know that its part of the PCM wiring.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Joedoh, removing wires would be nice as space is an issue. Plus routing thin bundles of wire is far easier than routing those anaconda sized bundles that the S10 has under the dash! As for the ABS, its mostly an issue of under hood space due to the shape of the Fargo. I could retain ABS by relocating the module (possibly down under the cab as I am well off the frame). If I knew for certain that the PCM didn’t care, I would just delete the ABS to simplify matters.

Thanks!

Stephan

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Longbed on an extended cab chassis:

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Yup, this is a longbed on an. ext cab chassis. You should be able to lose the ABS without affecting the ECM.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Interesting. With the springs flipped, my bed and wheel wells lined up without any trimming required.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Quick battery relocation question for S10 swaps: I am in the middle of my swap and it looks like I will need to relocate the battery towards the rear of the truck. I have the original S10 4.3 drivetrain and the original wiring harness and ECU. I would prefer to keep the wiring system identical to stock, but have read a number of posts suggesting the addition of either a breaker, a cut-off switch, or both when a battery is relocated. While both are easy enough to do, my concern is the interruption of power to the ECU. How are you guys handling battery relocation with the stock S10 drivetrain and wiring?

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

are you sure you dont have room under the hood? remember that the hood is tall even on your non AD so you might be able to go up with it.


I dont recommend a quick acting device on a starter cable, which is the purpose of the big heavy cable off the battery. everything else that runs after starting could be powered by an 8ga or smaller.

a circuit breaker will open quickly on a short but will also open quickly with a high amp start, like cold weather. circuit breakers are also hard to find in the size that wont pop on starting. resetting it may get old.

for a slow acting device, I would probably use a wafer (ANL) style fuse. it is a one time use, but will not "pop" till it passes 200% its rated current for more than 10 seconds. they are expensive in the values you are talking about, and the holder will be expensive as well. voltage drops compound with connections and a wafer fuse and holder will add 4 connections to the starter circuit (ring term, bolt term, bolt term, ring term)

https://www.bluesea.com/products/cat...3//ANL%20Fuses

in reality I would just connect it. fusing with an anl is really only for unintended shorts to ground, like from an accident damaging the cable or a rub through from poor installation, and 10 seconds for the anl to open would likely still be long enough to free the wire from its insulation and damage other stuff anyway. plan your install and use a good crimp to join the cables!


source: am EE.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Joedoh, my initial inclination was to simply wire that battery the exact same way it's done from the factory on the S10, but using heavier cable and being extra sure to mount the cables securely and safely with those rubber lined clips (and plenty of them!). The trouble with searching stuff on the internet is that you end up with a hodgepodge of conflicting opinions, and that’s what I found when I searched “battery relocation” (all kinds of posts demanding kill switches and breakers and stuff). I plan on retaining the exact same wiring system that GM used when they designed and built the S10 ( only with longer and heavier battery cables), and just wanted to make sure that I am not missing something with an obvious performance or safety issue. As for the need to relocate the battery, see my post from yesterday under “Project Fargolet”. There is a high-centre mount option under the hood, but maintenance access and the actual process of lifting it in & out could be tough. Maybe I’m overthinking this….I have a habit of doing that……...

Thanks for your input on this!

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I looked at your post, why not mount the ecu horizontally under a battery tray on the pass side?