Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Joedoh, I am juggling my needs in that spot and trying to figure out the best balance with the least fancy fab work (while considering access for future maintenance and repairs). That spot on the passenger firewall is also the pass-through for the heater lines (which are pretty big and they are what actually hold that old Mopar heater in place), so if I put stuff there I will have to figure out a different system for the heater. I am trying to decide whether or not it’s easier to put the battery under the bed floor (and build a door in the steel bed that lifts up to allow easy battery maintenance or removal), as opposed to trying to shoehorn stuff under the hood. As always I welcome input from those that have actually conquered one of these swaps!

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

i get it! :lol: its not work when you love doing it, I like the batt under the hood for access and the factory cables, but I am not everyone! under the bed floor will work, its just more work, and you do great work.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

My S10 battery relocation under the bed with an access plate, no breaker.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I will shortly be getting into the cab wiring on my S10 swap truck, and could use a recommendation regarding the light switch. My donour S10 is a 1996, and it has that ghastly plastic combination switch (rocker style for headlight/parking light and a dial for the dash light dimmer). I truly don’t want to mount that thing in my truck, so I am hoping that someone on this board can recommend a single switch that does the same stuff and is relatively easy to wire up. If anyone has a make & model of switch (or the make & model of the vehicle it’s meant for) I would really appreciate it.

Thanks guys (and gals)


Stephan
(Project Fargolet in the build section)

P.S. Thanks for the advice on the battery location issue!

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I use an original style, but for 12V from Classic Parts

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Just so you guys know I do sell pre-made cab stands and running Board brackets on eBay. Either includes instructions and schematics for making bed cross sills https://www.ebay.com/itm/133595288748 https://www.ebay.com/itm/133595290636

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I also sell upholster to taste full length door Panel backs https://www.ebay.com/itm/133757204289

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Congrats on post #1000!!

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Thanks gigamax

Additionally I have decided against the new running board bracket design and have reverted back to my original design

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

bump

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

bump

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

When the "S10 Swap How To" was a sticky, it received an absolute ton of input and views (4th most popular topic according to the view counter). Now it's months between posts, despite the fact that there are many of these swaps going on. I rather enjoyed following it just to see how members were tackling problems on this particular swap. It was also a quick way for newbies to discover this particular wealth of information. To be fair, whenever I ask something in this thread I still get great responses from you and other knowledgeable members. I just miss watching the swap related problem solving of other builders.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

yes, me too. For years this thread was going strong. I’m still doing S10 swaps for customers, in fact I’m doing one right now... https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=824854 if you’re interested

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I know I learned a LOT from this thread. Enough that I eventually started a thread of the build I am doing with help from this thread and site and all the good people who help out!

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

well I’m glad it served it’s purpose

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I still reference this thread often, its great. . . .

I have a question:
Why move the steering column over to the left ? ( other than centering it in the gauges ) is there another reason other than the gauges ? ?

I mocked up my column today using the upper stock mount and the lower column firewall hole and it seemed great where the stock location is

Thx !

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

do you have the motor in? your question may be answered by looking at where the steering shaft needs to run. in my trucks moving it over that small amount was the difference between a $200 steering hookup and a $400 steeing hookup with heim and extra joints. I also mount my engine to the passenger side slightly as well

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Hey
Thanks for the quick repsonse
I do have the engine in, headers on, booster and brake pedal in
If i move the column to the left i think i would have a tighter clearance through the headers

It would seems dropping the column slightly may help with the connection

Here are some pics :

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Pics attached

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

there is your answer, do what fits! no "tab a in slot b" universal advice on this swap haha.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Yeah its a trip, i know there is so much info on these swaps and it rules, im a better person for taking this project on, its been fun,. . . . . , the one thing i will say - no one swap is the same thats for sure haha

L

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

no kidding, i have done a bunch and none are the same. every one is better than the last though!

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I peep your threads often too ! Good stuff

So just for my own knowledge - the centering of the steering wheel over the gauges is mostly an aesthetic thing ?

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

yes. mostly. moving over slightly creates more room for a middle passenger too. I bet it was a last minute change, I wonder if they reused some 41-46 frame dimensions? because the rigid mounting of the steering column is really what determines the steering placement in the cab, if it were a last minute change they changed the dash stamping for the cutout anyway and could have just moved the gauges over? I would love to be a fly on the wall in 1946.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Hello all, I am new here however I've been a lurker on 67-72 trucks fpr probably a decade.

I have a 00 s10 108" that I've been tinkering with for years:
6.0 ls manual c5 brakes etc, I am doing a slave cylinder currently, and while doing it have realized how badly rotted my cab is, rest of the body is starting to turn also; I've been saying for years when the time comes I am going to do a swap like this well! i reckon now is that time!

I am slowly working through this thread from the beginning but my question is:

How applicable is this fantastic information to 41-46's, does anyone have threads not ruined by pictures no longer being available?

I have a rust free '42 cab and front clip and i much prefer those trucks to the AD (no offense!)

I understand they are different in most dimensions, wondering if there are any threads like this on the web more focused on the art deco trucks, or if somewhere in these 40 something pages there is any gems? thanks all in advance!

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

johdoh has done some pre-war pickups, and I believe he has mounts made up.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I am working on the 41-46 kit now, here is the protopye truck in process. the frame will need notched in the corners,

almost nothing in this thread applies to the prewars. I should have mine TRL8 (ready to shoot holes in it) this week though, so I will update as I go.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

1157, have you thought about some cast manifolds so you don't have to run a steering shaft through the header pipes? thats gonna be hot and may cook the lube out of the u joints not to mention what happens if a motor mount lets go on a burn out or a header gets baahed or whatever.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I sell a laser cut mount kit in as little or as much as you want. cab mounts only? sure. full 26 pc kit including bumpers? sure. giving the vendor membership a shot on here. Forum members get a $20 discount!

check out

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=832482

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Thank you for stepping up to Gold Vendor status! I hope you sell many!

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Russ, great looking parts, if I ever do an S-10 conversion, I will get this from you...Jim

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

thanks jim!

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Can anyone advise what type of master cylinder is used on a stock 1996 S10 (power brakes-front disk, rear drums)? I have had an issue with the brake pedal slowly sinking and after numerous bleeds of the system with no improvement I am going to install a new master cylinder. The issue is the bleeding technique. The instructions from the manufacturer (Cardone) have very specific instructions about “How to bleed a step bore master cylinder”, however these instructions come with ALL of their master cylinders, so they only apply to those models of the step bore design. The problem is that I have no idea if this new master cylinder is a step bore or a conventional design. I spent a good 2 hours consulting the Great Google Oracle and got zippo for my efforts. I want to get this right (I’m sick of bleeding this system!), so can anyone advise what type of master cylinder I have?

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

i gravity bleed the fronts and pressure bleed the rear with the "tube in a jar of fluid" method. make sure you watch the fluid level carefully or you will start over.

most of my problem low pedal pressure is fixed with bleeding the rears, which is why opening the bleeder and pumping the pedal hard works so well, even in new lines and new master I will get flecks in the fluid from somewhere.

and I know you know this, but for other readers remember the FRONT bore (closest to the grille) is the REAR brakes on an S10 master, and most GM masters of the era, and the REAR bore (closest to the firewall) is the FRONT brakes. I had a guy with soft pedal listen to this fact and tell me the front was the front because the line size was bigger....

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

not positive but I think all the S10's had low drag brake calipers so they would have had the step bore master cylinders. if you bench bleed the master cylinder before installing on the truck it will be a quicker operation. have you installed the master, attempted to bleed it and think you may have air in the system? did you take the abs system along for the ride? if so, the abs system may have air in it and will require the abs valves to be open in the unit for the bleeding to done. that requires a scan tool I believe.
here is a link on a quick way to bench bleed a step bore. you need a syringe.
https://www.buyautoparts.com/blog/ho...ster-cylinder/

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I use a bleeder like the lisle tool I got from princess auto. I use a nylon cable tie to ensure the hoses stay put and then place a longer section of clear urethane hose on the inlet and outlet, with the cable ties in place, on each hose so that the little bottle can become overfull and the fluid will simply drain down the extra hose instead of spray straight up out of the exit hole. you can buy different colored urethane hose, which is way more flexible than the vinyl hose that comes with, so you will easily know which hose is the inlet and outlet at a glance. I 1/2 fill the bottle, place that whole thing into an old coffee can so any spills or overflow will be contained. it is cheap, clean and works well for bleeding by yourself. when done, spill out the overflow, put the lid on the can and it is easy to store so dust and dirt stay out. I do enough brakes, usually, so I don't worry about draining, cleaning everything out etc but if you are just doing a single vehicle then it is good to clean it all up with brake clean and put it away.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

https://www.princessauto.com/en/brak...t/PA0002991081

you couls easily build one with an old pop bottle that would do the same thing. use hose that fits tightly over your bleeder screws heads. don't back the bleeder screws out too far or they will become air leakers through the threads of the screws.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

you can usually get a large bore syringe from a farm supply store or a feed supply outlet.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Joedoh:

I used the tube in the jar method on all wheels, and also gave it a shot using a vacuum pump, but the problem persisted. After bleeding the system numerous times, there were absolutely no bubbles coming out but the pedal problem persisted. There are no leaks and I am not losing fluid from the reservoir, so this led me to suspect a master that was leaking internally at the seals. Rockauto had a clearout sale and I got a brand new one for under 22 bucks Canadian (about ¼ of what that same unit costs up here!).

Dsraven:

The new master is still sitting here in it’s box. I will definitely bench bleed it first, and based on your comments I suspect that it is in fact a step bore style. The manufacturer was very very clear about using their recommended bench bleeding system for step bore master cylinders (but they don’t bother to tell you what type they are selling you!). They include a video as well that shows the 2 ways to do it (either with a syringe (the fast way) or with a dowel (the slow way). I deleted the ABS (so no hidden bubbles there), but everything else is stock 1996 S10, including the routing of all lines.

I will post the results when I’m done. Thanks for the quick replies!

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

a pedal that, when applied and held with equal pressure continued, slowly goes to the floor with no external leaks indicates an internal leak in the mastee cyl. good job diagnosing.