Re: Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window
 

Before you remove the spring seats, I would suggest that you get a angle finder and set it on top of the spring seat at 0*, then place the angle finder on the end of the pinion yoke to see what your pinion angle actually is and record it . That way you can install the new seats at the same angle.
also record measurements from the axle backing plates , and center seat to center seat.
Just don't put the measurements with the IFS instructions :lol:

There are some you tube videos on how to cut /weld new seats and set the pinion angle.

Re: Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window
 

Or even better leave them on until you get your new seats installed as in this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HqIbm2UwGck


another video cutting and grinding off seat:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xgu1QgLnci8

Re: Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window
 

Warrior, thanks for the advice. On my build thread I posted that when we dropped the driveshaft it barely dropped at all! I think that means it was installed incorrectly as the universals should have let it drop significantly. For that reason there's probably no reason to copy the existing spring perch angle.

What is the rule of thumb for pinion angle and engine tilt? Anyone know a good link that explains this? I DONT own a magnetic base angle finder but it looks like o need to get one soon. Any recommendations! Amazon? Summit? Other?

Re: Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window
 

Every ones got different opinions on pinion angle, some say 0* others say3*
I went with -5* according to
http://www.quickperformance.com/Pini...ent_ep_45.html

I got my angle finder years ago at Home depot $12 if I remember rite

Would be interested in what your pinion was set at since it did seem like it was functioning ok for you, or did it have any issues with vibrating ect.?

Re: Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window
 

Looks like you're making good progress.
Kim

Re: Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window
 

I need to read through that thread, Thanks.

I don't think there's any way to accurately tell you how the pinion angle was setup now that the engine, trans and rearend has been pulled. I'm no automotive engineer but it SEEMS like the downward tilt of the rear of the engine/trans combo ought to align with the upward tilt of the rearend so the driveshaft universals spend most of the time NOT coping with angle changes while driving. Wouldn't that give the longest life to the universal joints? Maybe there are other considerations your link will explain(?)

Re: Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window
 

Thanks Kim. I've got an errand to run after work today and my brother in law will be out of town after today but we're going to TRY to get together at 5 with some help to lift the cab off and set it aside on four furniture dollies (for now). I've got a vacation coming up soon so there will be a week's downtime but when I get back I'm thinking of taking a couple additional days to clean and paint the frame and flip the rear end - well, at least set it up somewhen the welder comes he can knock it all out in a day.

Re: Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window
 

Dan, that's the way I've always done mine, and it works out good...Jim

Re: Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window
 

Me too. You want the angle of the center line of the pinion shaft to drive shaft and the angle of the centerline of the transmission output shaft to drive shaft to be within 1/2 degree of each other.

Re: Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window
 

I agree with you guys. It seems most logical. But if you read the link in post #1046 it says the pinion gear tries to "climb" the ring gear and you set the pinion negative to offset that. My brother in law removed the leaf springs yesterday and there were wedges under them pointing the pinion down, aka that recommendation. I guess I kinda see the value of that if you were racing regularly, launching hard is what I mean. But for ordinary cruising it SEEMS like matching angles on both ends of the driveshaft is less wear and tear long term.

More opinions appreciated on this subject!

Re: Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window
 

Yes, you want matching angles on both ends of the drive shaft with the truck weight on the rear springs.

Re: Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window
 

Dan,
you are just going to have to put the thing together and see what you get.
I used my front wedges to align the rear axle to point at the trans, and the trans points at the rear end. it's about the same angle.
Before I adjusted the angle, the thing pointed skyward.
I added No Limit traction bars.
With the NO Limit traction bars, you can preload the rear so the springs do not wrap up, so the rear yoke does not "climb" the frame. totally tuneable.
Also makes the thing turn better as well.

Re: Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window
 

Been out of town on vacation and I'm back now.

Thinking it over I'm gonna load my cab into my dually and take it to a painter for an estimate. My brother in law has used the guy in restoring several VW's and the work seems fine for what I'm looking for - truly nice, but not "show".

I'm thinking it'll get the body parts out of my way and "while I'm in there" (yes, another) I may bite the bullet and have paint and body work done before I reassemble with the new IFS and rear end flip. It'll be costly but I KNOW I'll be happy to have my truck "done" - to the degree any of these are ever truly done. Thoughts and opinions appreciated as usual.

Re: Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window
 

Got out in the driveway after work last night - man, it was HOT!!! after spending all day in air conditioning.

I mixed up a 50-50 solution of heavy duty degreaser & water and went at the rear of the frame with a stiff bristle brush. It hardly touched the 60 year old grease.

Next, I got on it with a thin blade paint scraper and found that about where the rear end rides there was a very thin layer of grease/dirt adhering strongly to the inside of the C channel. I could get it 90% off but it's tough. On the front leaf spring attachment points some of the grease on their was hardened nearly into concrete. Worked and worked at that and eventually got all of it off the outside. Up inside them the grease was very stiff but not hardened.

I've got helpers coming Sunday to lift the cab off. We'll put it in the bed of my dually and I'll take it to a blaster and (hopefully) painting with an epoxy primer.

Then I may drop back and punt. Meaning just go ahead with the frame mods and after I'll consider taking it to the blaster too. It's another "while-I'm-in-there/slipper-slope" cost but the entire thing is down to the frame, I want it clean and well painted!

Re: Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window
 

You are right Dan, it's a slippery slope for sure, Sounds like you are doing some great work, lets see some pic's when you get a chance!

Re: Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window
 

Dan,
When these trucks were new, they dipped the frames in wax to keep the frames from corroding.
Over the years, the wax hardens and softens with use and heating and cooling. The wax gets dirt and grease in it, and tends to "toughen up" with all the contaminants in it.
If you get it all scraped off, you need to paint it with por 15 to re-establish your corrosion barrier, or paint it with some other really tough paint.

Painting the cab can get expensive, as the door work comes into play. Check your door fitment now, and check at the shop. Be sure to lay some old carpet or something down onto the two by fours that you put down to set the cab on the trailer.
when you put the cab on the trailer, you want the cab to sit on the cab mounts, not on the sheet metal as that can cause distortion of the rocker panels if the cab shifts on the trailer far enough.
It would be wise to bolt the two by fours together vertically and then again use a couple more to strengthen the sides of the 2X4 stack.

Re: Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window
 

Ok, so here she is stripped to the frame. Obviously there a re some lines and stuff that need to come off but for all intents it's a full frame off job now!
http://i832.photobucket.com/albums/z...psaix5ykig.jpg

And here's the cab. I'm into it neck deep now guys. Hopefully progress is steady if not the fastest. I still have a full time job. The 4x4 blocks you see weren't yet in their final position. That was done after this photo.
http://i832.photobucket.com/albums/z...psnjdl5beg.jpg

Wish me luck, I'll need it to keep my head above water and not let myself stagnate...

Re: Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window
 

Looks like you're moving forward.

At this time I usually use the word "Commit", you're too far now to turn back.

Savor every victory along the way, Jim

Re: Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window
 

Boy, am I ever committed. I'm so committed I should BE committed!:lol:

Re: Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window
 

Hope everything goes your way with the work. We'll try and keep you moving along...Jim

Re: Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window
 

Nice progress.
A lot of work but well worth it.
Kim

Re: Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window
 

Feels like I'm.... c r a w l i n g.... on progress.

My OCD tendencies keeps me wanting to wire wheel the frame clean when really the priority is:
- Get the IFS cross member fitted and the R& P notch located.
- Cut the old leaf spring pads off the rear end/grind the axle tubes smooth
- Buy new pads off so I'll be ready it's time to refit the rear end.

If I can get the suspension squared away, tacked and ready for my welder buddy to finish it, I'll feel I'm making progress. At the same time I want to send the body off for blasting and epoxy primer which will get stuff out of my way physically and I'll be making parallel on the body/cosmetics.

All this plus I'm out of town for a few days for our granddaughter's 1st birthday and a week's vacation in about a month. I just keep telling myself to spend an hour or two outside every night after work. Chip away bit at a time with the ballgame on and a cool beverage in hand.

Re: Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window
 

Dan, think of it like ham and eggs: The chicken was involved but the hog was committed. You are now the hog in this project, LOL.

I'll be following along as you "gitter done".

Re: Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window
 

Just updating thread for my later reference:

Taking Friday off to rent a flatbed (damn, cab won't QUITE fit in my dually bed!) to load cab and take to blaster. Since I have not yet blown apart my bed into component pieces or the front clip either those WILL go in pieces to the blaster later. Give me time to set up my compressor and buy primer.

Re: Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window
 

Oh and PS: "Recommended Epoxy Primer Brands for an Idiot's Use" will be appreciated.

Re: Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window
 

SPI epoxy is easy to use.
Kim

Re: Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window
 

...for idiots!:lol:

Thanks Kim!

This has to be ordered online only, right?

What solvent or catalyst, etc do I want to order. What mixing cups, etc? As I've said, I know SQUAT about spraying automotive paints.

Re: Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window
 

I can spray it with no problems and it sands real nice.
Of course I have no experience with anything else.
Here's some info on it.
http://media.wix.com/ugd/8ced3e_1e5c...ee9f969705.pdf
And here's their pricing page. It runs right around $200.00 for two spray-able gallons (mixes 1to1).
http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/#!pricing/c20uv
Only took a few days to get it when I ordered mine.
They also have wax/grease remover.
I just use the plastic graduated cups from Home Depot to mix it.
Kim

Re: Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window
 

Took half the day to remove the remaining "stuff" and there was a lot more than I thought. Wiring, ventilation cables and doors, wiper motor and arms, cowl grill, instrument cluster, mirror, visors, gas filler tubes, yada, yada.

I barely got the trailer and got it to the blaster before hey closed by less than five minutes! They were very cool about it though. Unloaded it in one minute but it took me 30 minutes to get it loaded and tied down. Plus I damaged the rockers as you'll see below, but oh well.:waah:

http://i832.photobucket.com/albums/z...psc4bscifc.jpg

I stopped counting after literally more than 50!! holes in the firewall. Tempted to just cover them with the fiberglass cover No Limit sells but I really like the look of the factory embossed firewall but clean, with NOTHING on it, or as near as I can get it on a driver truck.
http://i832.photobucket.com/albums/z...pszieeguh3.jpg

A bonus, Daleo56 (Tim) happened to be driving home from his shop and drove by the blaster right as they were unloading my cab. He was in his restored '60(I'm guessing) "Big Bird" Thunderbird. Very cool. He stopped and we talked a couple minutes. His referral is what got me to use his blaster and he speaks highly of them. Thanks Tim!

Damaged the rockers (yes, both sides) when we didn't realize the ratchet strap lifting the cab via the cherry picker was under the cherry picker'so legs instead of on top of them. We started lifting and realized this too late, damn.
http://i832.photobucket.com/albums/z...psxiqsckkd.jpg

Re: Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window
 

Thanks for the info Kim!
"Induction" means let the primer sit after mixing the reducer into it? It won't "go off" or flash like a catylized product, right?

It says to apply over an 80 grit DA surface. The blaster told me the metal will be about like a 220 grit sanding so that means I've got to sand the bare metal to get this level of "tooth"?

Are you saying I should buy two gallons to prime the entire truck? The bed and front clip will be disassembled into pieces including the inner fenders and bed cross braces, etc. Did you use both the 700-1 and 710-1 cleaning stuff? I'm wondering why you need BOTH the water based and the solvent based wax & grease remover? But if I do then I do I suppose. Sorry for all the questions!

Re: Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window
 

A gallon of primer and a gallon of catalyst will make two gallons of product.
I was able to spray everything with that and have some to respray most of the cab after doing body work and sanding a good amount off. It wont go off in the mixing cup for a long time and if it is sealed I believe it can last over night. After it induces for 30 minutes you need to stir it again before spraying.
I use a 1.4 cheapo gun and clean it real well with lacquer thinner when done.
I only used the 700-1 cleaner.
I would talk to the techs at SPI as far as spraying on a sand blasted cab. It may have enough bite to be O.K. for priming.
Hope this helps.
Kim

Re: Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window
 

Ok, great.

Now here's a newbie question if there ever was one:
- If I'm painting the entire cab, how many times will I likely fill the HVLP spray gun cup? I haven't a clue!
- You mix up all you'll need for the entire cab at once, I assume? Cover the mixed paint til you need to refill your cup?
- If you run short is there time to mix up more and allow the "induction" time without having to clean the gun?

PS: any reason to use one color primer vs. another? My truck will likely be red or green so I assume any of the colors offered would be fine? Obviously, don't use black under white etc. if I want to assemble and run the truck in epoxy primer can you tint their white? Will it stand up to UV?

Re: Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window
 

Kim

Re: Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window
 

Thanks so much, Kim!

Re: Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window
 

Ok, so little update:

Picked up the cab from the Sandblaster this afternoon and all in all I'm impressed there's so little rust, relatively speaking.

Here's the overall look:
http://i832.photobucket.com/albums/z...pstukw0rbg.jpg

And of course the firewall looks like Swiss cheese. I stopped counting after FIFTY holes!
http://i832.photobucket.com/albums/z...psnw1r0sob.jpg

Someone "repaired" the cab corner rust back in the 60's or 70's with an oxy acetylene torch. Maybe (?) that was a decent repair back then in the days before repop sheet metal. There was probably 1/4" to 3/8" of filler on top of it.
http://i832.photobucket.com/albums/z...psgj87829o.jpg

The other side wasn't quite as large:
http://i832.photobucket.com/albums/z...psuv1xooon.jpg

Re: Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window
 

I was truly worried about cancer in the rain gutter and/or "brow" areas of the cab. Turned out there was only a bit of cancer in the rain gutter and it is truly small. I'm pleased.
http://i832.photobucket.com/albums/z...psqvveiwyj.jpg

There is also some cancer at the bottom of both sides of the cowl but for 60 years it's actually not terrible.
http://i832.photobucket.com/albums/z...psxx9npln1.jpg

As of right now BEFORE I've had the rest of the truck sandblasted I know there a small amount of rust through in the top roll of the bed front panel. And there doesn't APPEAR to be rust in the rear fenders - we'll see about that. The door bottoms have maybe a half dozen holes but they're very small, maybe 1/8" I treated those inside the door with phosphoric acid and Rustoleum anti rust primer, but now that I'm blasting the while truck, the very bottom flat areas of the doors will get cut out and replaced. But I think all this constitutes a nearly rust free truck in most parts of the country.

Re: Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window
 

Looks like it's in real good shape.
Kim

Re: Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window
 

Not bad at all Dan, lots of clean metal for sure!

Re: Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window
 

Thanks guys. Yeah, I was pleased when I saw it. Seeing metal that hasn't been bare in 60 years is kinda neat.

Hey, is there any way to find out what color my truck was originally? I was always under the impression there is not. Am I correct in that?

Oh and also on reconsideration I decided to have the truck primered by the paint guy that will be doing the truck. I'd planned on doing it myself but got to considering the time I have, etc and well,.....I wussed out!

So the truck is at the painter who has done three vintage VW's for my brother in law and I've been impressed with his work. While I was dropping off my cab I saw a '40 Ford pickup in its factory dark green whose cab had just been color sanded and the bed was being done. There was also an early Mustang in a brick red that was complete, just not reassembled and both looked great to my untrained eye.

http://i832.photobucket.com/albums/z...psxjuhpnk9.jpg

Re: Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window
 

Dan, kind of late seeing this, but cab is in great shape, very little rust...Jim