Re: Rat repair.
 

Well the onley other is three phase
Just wire the two hot leads as u would any 220v circuit
And the ground wire is ground!

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For 3 phase power you need 3 hot wires and ground. most houses are single phase. you can get a phase converter for the 3rd phase. they make rotor or static type and match to the power of the motor you are running.

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Ya I made this one for my bald or grinder typ. It is simple plug and play

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I will not buy a heater if its 3 phase, i need to plug it into my welder outlet..

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cool home made phase converter. the rotor type are expensive to buy one. how did you make it if you don't mind me asking.

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That's just a phase O-Matic Rotary phase converter that are hardwired so I can just plug my three-phase equipment into it and I plug it to 220 extension cord from the welder and all the other equipment

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Do you still have the drain pointing to the center of your floor? It looks like a toe stumper. But the compressor look real nice. What CFM is that compressor? George

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I have had no problem with the drain being in the way, its pretty much the same as the legs as to how far it sticks out, the tank is further out than the legs, plus i have the compressor sitting on a 2'X2' chunk of rubber conveyor belt for vibration dampening.

17.8@90psi
17.7@100psi
17.2@175psi

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You could contact the manufacturer of some of these heaters and get their wiring recommendations with your criteria? Might make deciding easier or show you models you had not considered yet.

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This link explains what i'm talking about with a 220 3 wire VS 4 wire, houses are all single phase and businesses are 3 phase, so if its a "Garage heater" it has to be single phase.

I did find a place selling the New Air G73 and it shows 3 wires coming out of the back of the unit. I did email one place but no reply as of yet.

http://www.nojolt.com/Understanding_...circuits.shtml

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Heated garage is the way.

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good luck with the heat. no need here in Florida for heat. only AC

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Why are you using electricity? Is natural gas not an option? I heat my wood shop (built into hte back 1/3 or so of the garage) with electricity. It's generally more expensive than gas, and even for my little insulated wood shop, it's definitely not cheap. I live in town, heat my house with natural gas, and simply haven't ponied up the cash and time to run a line out to the garage. Maybe that's your case, too???

That being said, any heat in a garage is better than no heat, even the more expensive electric heat. The car/truck side of my garage is not insulated and still has open trusses. I've used LP to heat it on occasion with a big mutha convection heater, but I pour through the LP, barely get the chill out of the garage, and magnify the affect of the beer I'm consuming while out there due to the heater's consumption of oxygen....

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i love the little 45k btuh natural gas unit in my garage, but i had gas right there for the h2o heater so it was a no brainer. i dont know as i would have gone to the trouble of running a line if it wasnt. actually, now that i know i would have. but i shopped for electric units as well. like you said any heat is better than cold fingers.

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This area dosn't know what natural gas is i think. :) We don't have natural gas service in the area and i won't even concider a large propane tank, don't want to mess with it. I know my electric heat (yes baseboard heaters) are not that efficiant but up to this point i have resisted the urge to have a heat pump installed and the house ducted for it, i know i would save in my heating bills if i did it. I may have to give in and give Freakshow a call someday and see what he can do for me.

My garage is about 460 sq ft the walls are R-11 on the outer two walls with the exception of the garage doors but i'm hoping to get them replaced with insulated units this year. the ceiling is 8' and its insulated about 1' deep, above that is my upstairs bedroom. I hqave tried a kerosene heater but cant deal with the fumes, plus with the bedroom upstairs i have concerns about carbon dioxide. The good news is that it rarely ever gets below mid 20's and all i want to do is try and keep the air dry so when i do some body work i won't be fighting any potential moisture problems. I would also be to string up a plastic barrier down the middle to protect out bikes from any potential over spray that may occure, i had a little talking too last summer about over spray on Megs helmet...Woops!

I spent a lot of time looking at different units and decided to buy the King unit thru Home depot, i figured if i had a problem with it i could just return it to them instead of having to ship it back. I ordered it a couple days ago.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...FQpsfgodpUMAbA

So in the mean time i admittedly havent been working on the truck :waah: But i have been concentrating on planning some stuff to be done to my bike for riding season, a big bore kit and different cam and some other improvements. Plus i'm adding a different rear fender, saddle bags and a new paint job. I'm letting a local independant shop do this stuff for me but my time has been spent doing the planning and decision making on what gets done.

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Well, i received my King Model# KBP2406 heater, went to Home Depot and bought 25' of SO electrical cable, a 30 amp male plug and a couple other items to get the heater hooked up and mounted to the ceiling on the outside wall about 15' away from and facing the garage door.

My first impression is kinda disappointing, both in heat and airflow, i was expecting more for a 220V heater, but it is quiet. This morning my thermometer said it was 29 degrees outside right now its about 38 per weather.com. I turned the heater on and went back in the house for my coffee, after 1 1/2 hours i went back out to check, the house door is about 15' away from the heater in the other stall, the air was warm down to about 3' level then it was pretty cold. i walked over to the other stall and about 10' in front of the heater (right next to my air compressor) it was warm to about chest level which is right in front of the heater as its angled down, but the air gaps on the garage doors are just too big, you can feel the cold air coming in from the door. any closer to the door and the heat just dissipates. Basically the heat is circling in the back half of the garage because the leak's around the doors. Once i get the doors replaced it should make quite a difference.

Right now the heater is on the highest setting on the built in thermostat, it hasn't cycled off at all yet. it does have an overheat automatic shut off tho which is one of the reasons i chose it.

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That heater would work in my garage real good. I have 2 small Daton heaters that plug into 110 outlet and in about 2 hours it is warm enough I can work in my T-shirt. I do have an insulated garage door that seal good and I did install a bottom seal at my side door. All walls insulated with R13 ceiling is R30.

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I came to the conclusion real quick that my door's weather strip, or should i say lack there of..... is the main reason the heater isn't keeping up, new insulated doors will be nice when the time comes, but in the mean time i ran down to Home Depot and bought some garage door weather stripping, will install it tomorrow.

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That is going to make a big difference. A good seal on all sides of the garage door will help keep the heat in. Our garage has a 16' tall ceiling and we've got 2 large ceiling fans to push the warm air down to 1st floor level (not to mention the thermostat mounted 30' away by a man door). When we are out there the fans are running full speed. Once you get the heat to stay in the garage you might consider an extra circulating fan or 2 in the right place should help winter or summer.

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Not sure what doors you are referring to but if it is the overhead door that is not insulated a friend of mine got some insulated inserts from Menards that worked pretty slick. They were similar to batting insulation.

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Its amazing when you try and heat a place how much cold air rushes in thru the cracks LOL! Best laid plans... not enough time to get to the garage door weather strips today.

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Nope, garage doors actually, the ceiling is insulated tight. Thanks for the suggestion tho, they are always welcome!

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Insulation mats that go in panels of the overhead garage door sorry for confusion

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Oh I got ya, thanks!

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I got the top and sides of one door weather stripped today, bought the rubberised roll of stuff that ya gotta nail every 2-3 inches, it works but its time consuming, the only other stuff Home depot had was like a squeege attached to a long plastic piece, it would work if i pulled all the 1/2 X 2' wood trim around the roor and replaced it with 1/2 X3", too much work for something i may end up having to replace later. I'll get the other door tomorrow.

The bottoms are going to be another story as both doors seem to have sagged in the middle a bit, plus the floor is crowned up in the middle of both doors too, so they are solid against the floor in the middle and up about 1/8 to 1/4" on the sides. It did have worn out rubber bottom seals when i bought the house back in 89, but i don't know if i can make them latch if i put new stuff on the bottoms, will find out soon enough.

Edit: It took me forever but i found out that Northern Tool sells a 3' and 6' X 3/4" air hose for compressors so i got it ordered too.