Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

After a lot of thought, research and talking with big block truck members I have decided to use the CPP tubular transmission mount being that my borg warner has a tailshaft mount. The bellhousing mount was made in a big block application in the 2nd gen trucks, but hard to come across. If I use the 6cyl/v8 mount it will take a lot of fab to move it forward and with the time and $ I can have the CPP mount and be done with it.

This will solve several issues. I can slide the motor forward some to gain my valve cover and HEI clearance. It opens a lot more room for exhaust. And I don't have to do any firewall work. I will still use the cast iron bell housing, it will just be a 3 point mount instead of 4. I have a CPP mount already, but as I found out Sunday night, its made for a 34" frame, not the 63-72 as it was advertised. Part was purchased off a forum member and he didn't know it either as its boxed and labeled for a 63-72. After talking with Bluebomber and verifying his 79 frame dimensions, it seems the mount I have is for a 73+ frame. So it will be sold and I have already ordered a 63-72 mount from CPP this morning. So after the rain passes, I'll get the trans mated to the engine. I installed the bell housing Sunday and new grade 8 bolts to protect the flywheel/clutch assembly on install. Driveshaft will need a new yoke to match the borg anyways so length isn't an issue. I'll either get a new one or have this one converted to work with the truck. So some problems overcome and some new ones tossed into the mix.

CPP part #CP9427 $79.00

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

the build is coming along nicely man!! great work!!

On your motor mounts i would reccomend drilling your own holes an inch back from the forward set of factory holes. The valve covers and distributor will still clear and it gives you more room for rad and fan setup. I ended up scooting my engine back because it really didnt have much room in from of the engine for a fan

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

i appreciate the kind words. i get more done on some days than others. rain got the better hand tonight as the engines got to get moved downhill from the engine shed and taken to ground zero. hoping to get it moved down tomorrow. i need to get trans attached and check header to frame clearance. i plan to set the engine back to where i have comfortable clearance on the dist. and valve covers. hoping to have last of frame and engine install done this weekend. trans mount will just install where it is bolted to trans in relation to the frame so that makes that easy. then we'l start on exhaust.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

got the frame trimmed last night and the frame work blended in and undercoated to match the rest of the frame. probably would have been easier to do while frame was bare, but lots of tape and covering on the frame and i got it done. will get pics up once they upload

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

A few pics of the frame trimming. Took around 5/16" off both sides. Placed the mounts on the frame and laid out 3/4" from the back of the mount to the taper where the frame trims back from the factory. Did this on both sides and was done based off all the big block swap builds I could find. I tried to match the factory step where they tapered the frame. This should allow plenty of clearance. If not, the grinder will come back out. Used a new 24grit disc and took about 15 min per side to get the lines nice and straight. Had a small run on the pass side undercoat, but luckily this stuff will blend nicely and I'll do the final touch up tonight before moving the engine down. It's all lined up to be set in tonight for sure!!!! Can't wait.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

A few pics of the frame trimming. Took around 5/16" off both sides from behind the forward mounting holes to the taper where the frame trims back from the factory. Did this on both sides and was done based off all the big block swap builds I could find. Should allow plenty of clearance. I tried to match the factory step where they tapered the frame. If not, the grinder will come back out. Used a new 24grit disc and took about 15 min per side to get the lines nice and straight. Had a small run on the pass side undercoat, but luckily this stuff will blend nicely and I'll do the final touch up tonight before moving the engine down. Its under the engine perch anyways...so may not even be visible once perch is bolted down. It's all lined up to be set in tonight for sure!!!! Can't wait.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Last pic of frame clearance. Undercoating was still wet, so it look blotchy, but this stuff blends great and will dry the same as the reat.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

got home and drilled the frame to set the mounts back 1" from the forward position. got tools set up for engine install while i waited on austin to come over from ft.bragg. we got the engine moved down from the shed to the frame. got the transmission mated and the engine/trans installed. have around 3/4"-1" at pass side valve cover/firewall. will get rest of engine done while i wait on the trans mount to arrive. was 9:30 by time we got done and tools up working by a shop light. will get some pics in the morning. but another milestone. was glad to see the engine and trans finally go in. so far all my frame prep looks good. plenty of room for the hei removal when time to prime engine. will get headers fitted tomorrow and start tightening all the an lines to the engine.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

We need pics!

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Here you go....as requested.

As I said last night....was well after dark by time we got done. Didn't even have time to move the engine lift. Snapped these pics this morning. We actually did pretty good on getting it in there without much metal to metal contact. Touch up will be minimal. The leveler was a golden ticket to this show. Sure did make the trans and engine install much easier.

This is the driver side. Plenty of room.

And big thanks to Austin (bluebomber) for his time and patience with helping get the engine and trans moved and installed. I owe you an all you can drink beer night!!!

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Passenger side and a pic before it was moved down to the truck. The last pic is mating the trans to the engine and the hydraulic slave cylinder for the clutch being installed.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Have lots of little stuff to do still. Have to reinstall pulleys, plumb hydraulic clutch lines, oil pressure, etc....and still need to complete pass side valve cover. Have around 2-3 hrs left on it and paint. Heres the driver side again.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Very Nice… Looking Good!!!:metal:

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Thanks Don. A lot of time and brain cells just to get to this point. Looks like my measurements have been ok so far on the frame.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Ordered a different throttle return bracket as I didn't like the one I originally went with. Ordered a PRP in blue part # PRP1650

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

The BB looks right at home there! drool drool...

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Thanks TJ. I'm still in shock that its finally set in. Nice to have the extra shed space back too.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Have you test fit the headers with those motor mounts yet? Going to be tight.!! Sure looks goood sitting in there.!!

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Looks really good in there. The blue looks great!

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Not yet, but looking at it this morning and last night I agree. It'll be tight, but I think we'll be ok. I'll know more tonight when I go to install them.

The pics don't show the clearance very well, but there is actually quite a bit of room around them. Frame clearance shouldn't be an issue with the trimming I did.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Thanks a bunch!!!!

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Love that blue engine. Looks great. Valve covers came out nice too!

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Thanks for the comments. Its actually a F*rd color, but that really doesn't bother me. It's the closest color I could find that I liked and so far the colors have all matched nicely.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

No worries I think my engine yellow is a dodge color.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

I don't care what the colors were originally personally. I say if you like it....then go with it. Colors are colors and nobody owns them. I've seen tons of Fords painted chevy orange.....hell, I have a buddy who loves mustangs but only runs SBC motors in them.

And I used a Jaguar grommet on the spare tire carrier....

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Install looks really good. Can't wait to hear it when you fire it up. What kind of carb are you going to be running? I agree on the colors as well. The 383 in my Caprice is painted F%^d Engine Blue. It looks much crisper than the GM blue to me. HA

Bret

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

thanks bret. got the pass side header in yesterday. had to dimple the tube for cyl 2 just a hair, but slid right in. will work on driver side today or tomorrow. have family in from dc area until tomorrow.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Man, your engine is looking great in there and you are coming along so well. Thanks for all the update pictures you have been posting. Keep up the awesome work!

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Thanks a bunch for the kind comments. Some days are better than others. Been pretty straight forward so far, but I knew at some point I'd run into more fab work. Everything has panned out pretty good so far. Exhaust clearance issue on driver side, but its not too bad.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Got home Friday and decided to tackle the pass side header. Didn't take long to figure out I'd need to modify cyl 2 tube just a hair. Pulled out the 1 1/2" steel pipe and 3-4 carefully placed whacks took care of the issue. The headers are 1 3/4" primarys and there is not much intrusion, so I think we're good on this side. clearance at the frame is good, mount is a tad tight, but it'll be fine. The pics help, but don't show depth very well, so it looks a lot tighter than it is.

The mount being square on the ends seems to be the issue, and it could be overcome with new mounts. I don't mind fab work though, and I will work the exhaust clearance out and leave the mounts as is.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Couple more of the pass side. Came out real nice in my opinion.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

That's a tight squeeze but well worth it 'cause it looks fantastic sitting in there.
:metal::metal:

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Driver side was a little tighter...again on forward most cyl (cyl 1). After looking at it for around 20min to figure best plan of attack. I knew it would not bolt in even with dimpling the tube. At this point a few phone calls went out and a half hour later I was in tough with an exhaust man who is a friend of a friend. I'm satisfied with the way the rest of the build has gone, and am not changing mounts or going backwards....so easiest fix it to modify cyl 1 tube. I cut the tube long and mounted header. I have 3 routes that I can go to fix.

1st would be drop the tube down in front of the perch and go between the perch and the frame. As you can see in the pic...tons of room. Really leaning towards this option as it keeps the exhaust tucked under the frame rails.

2nd is take the tube over top of tubes 3, 5 & 7.

3rd is to run it down the outside of 3, 5 & 7 and down the frame. See the next post for this mock up.

I haven't decided which route to go, although option 1 keeps it the cleanest...only issue being removal of driver side mount to install, which really isn't to big of an issue. Option 2 would allow install from the bottom, and not interfere with the mount at all. And option 3 would be install from the top, raising the engine to install.....so I have some decisions to make in the next few days. I'll go out with some coat hanger and make some mock tube lines to see which route I'd like to go. Had family on from DC all weekend, so not much time on the truck.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Couple more....The driver side header was quite different in design. Install was good minus issue at cyl 1. Did have to drop the hydraulic clutch slave to install, but clearance is good on everything else. I meet with the exhaust guy today to cover the options. they have plenty of 1 3/4 OD tube in stock. If I had a bender I'd weld it myself, but no bender so it'll end up in a shop for this fix.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

[QUOTE=pdxhall;6769526]That's a tight squeeze but well worth it 'cause it looks fantastic sitting in there.
:metal::metal:[/Q

Yeah, its tight, but there is at least 1/4" clearance from all tubes to frame. Tightest spot is cyl 2 and 1 at the mounts. But one has been overcome and the driver side will be the same. Its nothing that some 1 3/4" tube and a welder can't fix. But I agree....its looking good.

Walked by yesterday and saw all those long tubes hanging down behind the tires.....it looks tough, that's for sure. I knew it wouldn't be easy...as there aren't a ton of big block manual trucks in our body style to use as templates and for parts comparison. I'd rather modify the one header than deal with the firewall issues and keep pulling perches, mounts etc. Its just part of the project and will pan out ok.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Looks right at home. :metal:

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Getting there. The exhaust is actually an easy fix. Just going through all my options before I finalize which option to go with. Have to consider all options.....removal for maintenance or repairs....etc.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

I like how you've mocked up the solution in that last set of photos. I think it would look fine. Will you have any lines running along that frame rail that would be exposed to heat if you ran it on the low side?

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Oh the FUN!!! :metal:

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

no line issues. alternator is on other side so no wiring either. if i run the tube a little higher up, it would drop in from the bottom. if i go down the frame how i mocked it up above, install will be fun.

fuel runs on the other side and plenty of room for brake lines. hydraulic clutch line is an an- braided stainless line and ill heat wrap the portion near the headers.