I don't see anything wrong w/it. IMO, I would mock the bags in place & determine if you actually need a spacer. Then, if you do require one, it will be much easier to measure how tall it needs to be. Work smarter.... not harder.

You woudln't happen to know how long STOCK rear springs are under load would you?
they are 12" uncompressed, but how much do they sag when loaded? that should help me determine how tall to make that bracket...

either way, i need it b/c i need some way to bolt the bags on... so now im just determining dimensions..

I can find out tomorrow. I work w/a guy that has a 67swb chevy that's bone stock. I can get a measure unless someone else will do it faster.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe Airlift makes the same bag with both mounting patterns. The single hole ones are meant to be Firestone replacements and the two hole top and bottom is Airlift's own deal. Call whoever you bought them from and see if they will swap them out for you. If you bought them from Jason I'm sure he'll take care of you. Those of you running Airlift bags don't forget to use the roll plates that come with the bags...they come with them for a reason (belive it has to do something with the load rating)

thanks scoti, and shev.

That measurment was 9.5" from the bottom of the frame to the top of the trailing arm. This truck has the stock '68 coil springs. It is a wood floor truck w/a spare & full size steel jack in the bed.

thanks for the measurement scoti...
turns out that its just goint to be cheaper to buy a adapter for those 2 hole bags that suicide sells then to fab up a set on my own... oh well, no fun in the fab lab for me.
anyway,
i just got off the phone with air ride tech (again)... they forgot 3 items in my order.. whats up with that... at least they fixed the problem quickly (which i appreciated). oh well i guess.

I say send the bags back to SuicideDoors and swap them for a set with the single mounting hole on bottom. You shouldn't have any problems, Jason is a pleasure to deal with.

i called him up and he said that i should stick with the 2600 series b/c they will provide a better ride... not a huge deal. i just got a bracket from him...

it should work out without a problem.... holpefully

cysko, where do you live? Maybe I could come see how it's goin...

near monroe.... southeast MI

Mr Shelley.....
new but related question about mouting the rear bags...
how did you mark where to drill the holes for the upper mounting bolts and the air line on the frame?

there has to be something else to do other then just guess....

I measured everything (twice), drew myself a template in Illustrator, printed it on heavy paper, laid it out on the frame and went to town with the drill.

I've attached the template, but depending on which bags you have, the holes may be different.

Need rear bags and installation
 

Guys this may sound lazy,but if a person needed a basic setup for rear bags, fittings etc. about how much would that cost and the price of installation? You know you get to a point in a project when you want someone else to do something to it. I am kind of burned out. Thanks, Kerry

20 years ago, when I did this stuff for a living, I'd sit down with the (Gabriel, etc.) shock spec books and create my own "lowered shock" interchange by finding pieces that had all the specs I needed (damping rate, top/bottom mounts, new height, etc.). That method still works (and is what 4 out of 5 of the "lowered shock" companies are probably doing).

I agree. Then they charge you extra for a custom shock when many times it's only custom for that particular application. I would pay extra for tuneable/adjustable shocks.

Prices?
 

Come on guys I need this setup basic that is as soon as possible. Finally got my truck on the road. It rattles my filllings. My brother set it up for bags before I got it. I bottom out just going down the road. Any help would be appreciated. Kerry

thanks... i'll tryit out...

This is a great post, I have learned a lot. I have one question to ask. I plan on using my truck to tow my drag car, but absolutely love the look for a lowered/bagged truck. What pound bag should I get if I am going to be towing with it?? Steel trailer on reese hitch pulling a 3100 pound chevelle. What all do I have to take into consideration when using bags and towing??

AirRide reps told me the standard rear bags would work for towing. I wanted an extra margain for error so I used the same bags that the front of these trucks normally use & have been 100% happy w/that choice.

They recommend F6957's for the rear:
2140#
3" minimum height
7" max height
4.5-5" @ ride height
6.5" diameter

But, for the rear of my 68, I used the bags recommended for the front;
3150#
3" minimum
8" max 5-5.5" @ ride height
8" diameter

SCOTI, what are the part numbers/brand of the 3150# bags?? I would also feel safer with those. Where is the cheapest place to get them from?? Could you post/PM me a whole list with part numbers and possibly prices of all the compenents in your set-up?? I would really appreciate it. I am new to all this stuff, but am very interested in bagging my truck. Just trying to learn. I won't be doing it for a while, but I figured the sooner I start planning, the better set-up I will have and won't have to do it twice.

Thanks,

Travis

Firestone # F6873 are the bags used on the fronts of 1/2 ton trucks & what I used for the rear on my 68swb tow rig.

You can get pricing through various vendors. I purchased my stuff directly through AirRide. I bought the 2-wheel installer pakage w/F6873 bags @ $299. I also added 2 Schrader valves @ $5 ea. & 1/4" DOT airline @ $20.

About 1.5yrs later, I later added the F9127 3gal airtank @ $75
ARC-1550 Thomas 100psi air comp @ $139
CON 2000 paddle controller @ $175

All these prices + P/N's are through AirRides site.