Re: Daverods project 66
 

I put it right on bare metal? :hmm:

Re: Daverods project 66
 

Looks so nice
I like bare metal, but love the look of some nice primer :metal:

I have read you need to seal the metal first before priming, but then I have also read you can apply it to bare metal...so maybe it don't matter which way you do it.
the internet is great but you get so many different contradicting opinions....kinda confusing at times:uhmk:

Re: Daverods project 66
 

My first words when I walked in the paint store were " I need a primer that I can put on bare metal". She told me that was the stuff?

Re: Daverods project 66
 

I think if your going paint it right away you can use a metal primer. If you have body work to do you then have to seal it first so it won't rust. Again I said "I think". What do you guys think?

Re: Daverods project 66
 

My plan (do I have a plan) was to prime, do my body work (Rage body filler) then Slick sand, then paint? Mayde I have to seal the slick sand. I'm not sure. I was looking on evercoat web site the orginal featherfill says you can put it on bare metal. This stuff says g2 on in. I think that just means it can be used over a eching primer? I'm confused.:dohh:

Re: Daverods project 66
 

Worked on my doors today. Took the windows out, sanded the paint off, began to wonder if you can ever stop the rust? Used about 3 can off rust stop, hay it can't hurt. Sprayed it inside the doors, around and inside the hood, all the places I could'nt sand or sandblast. I'm going to see if I can get these doors to work. I don't really want to spend the money to buy new ones. Should be getting my engine back from the machine shop this week . It's a 350 bored .10 over. I have a turbo 350 and a 400. I think I'll use the 350. Did'nt really need to do the engine now but it just somthing else I can check off the list. Still looking for a steering column.:waah::waah::waah:

Re: Daverods project 66
 

Man I'm glad I live in California with all the rust I've seen here. The etching/sealer primer that I use can have bondo over it.

Re: Daverods project 66
 

Yea I'm pretty sure my next truck is going to come from California or Arizona.

Re: Daverods project 66
 

If Evercoat says it is a direct to metal primer, and you followed the prep recommendations, you should be fine. Whenever I'm working with blasted metal I first spray it with epoxy primer, then do the necessary filler work, and then start with the sandable primer. This is just what I've done for years.....learned it from a few local restoration and custom car builders.

Re: Daverods project 66
 

Worked on my body work alittle last night. Seemed like all I do is put filler on then sand it all off. Ordered some new door bottoms from lmc. Going to pick up my engine from the machine shop today. :metal::metal:

Re: Daverods project 66
 

Ain't that a *****, all that blocking & sanding. Looken good. Keep it up Dave.

Re: Daverods project 66
 

Won a tilt steering column on ebay I'm pumped. :hot:Came out of 79 chevy van. Now I can finish mounting my dash. Picked up my engine, cleaned out a spot in my garage to work on it. Now all I have to do is find the time to put it together. It's my first one so it might take awhile.:help: Feel free to tell me what to do first.:splat:

Re: Daverods project 66
 

I hope your done sand blasting. Engines and sand don't mix well. I've rebuilt several chevy engines. I used "How to rebuild a small block chevy" if you follow it everything should work out fine. Cleanliness and order and recheck your work. It's simple to do just tedious.

Re: Daverods project 66
 

There will be no more sand blasting inside my garage ever! Took about a week to clean it out. I'll have to get me one of those how to books. Thanks Allen sorry about Grandma.

Re: Daverods project 66
 

Just bought a how to book on Amazon used $9. Money well spent I'm sure. I've rebuild a few snowmachine engines so I have a little idea of what to do. Probably just enough knowledge to get in trouble.:lol:

Re: Daverods project 66
 

There are many knowledgeable people over in the engine section of this website. Ive read quite a bit over there, so if you have an issue you can post it up over there.

Looking good on the progress......I hate sanding.:lol:

Re: Daverods project 66
 

It looks like you are making good, steady progress. Let us know how the engine assembly goes and keep up the good work.

Re: Daverods project 66
 

Make sure the machine shop put that little galley plug back in place under the oil pump driveshaft area (ish...hard to describe. You should see it when looking in that area. Little feller, about 1/2 an inch if I remember right.). They remove them to vat the block.

It's happened a lot over the years. Forget that little plug and it won't build oil pressure. Big pain.

Re: Daverods project 66
 

Thanks Tx I'll go look to make sure. No oil pressure would suuuckk.:exit:

Re: Daverods project 66
 

I think it this is what your talking about Tx?

Re: Daverods project 66
 

Look straight down into the engine bowels in this area.

It should likely be a shiny new little bitty freeze plug.

Re: Daverods project 66
 

And that rusty thing sticking out of the block near the oil pan rail in your picture. That is some goofy unknown something or another. Unscrew it and replace it with a 1/4 npt plug. That's the lower drain for the block water galley.

Re: Daverods project 66
 

I see nothing. I don't think they put it back. Maybe it's in the gasket kit?

Re: Daverods project 66
 

It's been afew years, so I'm dealing mith my memory here...

I do believe you might have to remove the rear main cap to see the area better. It's up in here somehwere. I promise, I'm not getting Alzheimers yet. You will know it immediately when you see it. I think it's somewhere next to where the oil pump rod goes into the block.

Re: Daverods project 66
 

hay hay hay. And to think I was beginning to doubt you. That's it right?:metal: One less thing to worry about. Thanks Kevin