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Removing pinion seal / how to remove pinion seal
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Alright so now we are going to remove the pinion seal. This is a fairly easy task. All you will need is a punch/prybar and a mallet. Take the prybar and pull the seal out of the seat. Your pretty much going to destroy the seal. Beneath the seal is going to be your second pinion bearing. This was only kept in by the seal so you can now remove it by just reaching in and pulling it out. So next we will remove the inner axle shaft seals.
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Axle shaft seal removal
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Alright so these are the last 2 seals on the axle. The 2 axle shaft seals are located on each side of the axle housing. These I wont be removing so i dont have any detailed pictures but they are taken out the same was as the pinion seal.
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How to remove bearing race
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So the very last step to completely tear down this axle is going to be the removal of both of the pinion bearing races. We are going to start with the biggest one first. The FIRST and SECOND picture shows the race which is located right on the inside of the axle housing. To remove, grab your trusty punch and mallet and tap it from the back. In the FORTH picture we are looking through where the yoke sits and you will see that there is 2 exposed parts of the race, one on right and left, specifically designed for tapping it out. So get your punch and hit it from there. The FIFTH picture shows how to position your punch in the right hole to tap on the back of the race.
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How to remove bearing race
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Now we are going to tap out the second bearing race which sits right behind the yoke seal [PICTURE 1]. Looking from inside the axle housing toward the yoke you can see this race has those 2 areas exposed just as the first one did [PICTURE 2]. Position your punch like this and it should come right out [PICTURE 3].
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Pinion assembly
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Alright well the entire axle is completely torn apart and all that is left is a big hunk of metal. Now i realize i didnt have any pictures of the pinion assembly so as an apology I arranged a "schematic" of the pinion assembly and labeled each seperate part with an assigned character. They are as follows:
A- Yoke retaining nut B- Yoke C- Yoke/ Pinion seal D- Outer pinion bearing and race E- Pinion crush sleave F- Inner pinion bearing race G- Inner pinion bearing H- Pinion |
Re: Front 10 Bolt Teardown / Rebuild PICTURES!
Counting the cover bolts is a common misconception. Look at the ring gear. There are 10 bolts holding the ring gear in place. That makes it a 10 bolt. The GM12 bolt has 12 bolts on the ring gear. The 14 bolt like wise. Other rear ends are a toss up. BOP rears has some 10 bolts with 12 bolts on the cover. This made for some real disappointment. :lol:
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10 bolt axle rebuild
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Okay so now are are going to completely put this thing back together in reverse order. First things first, I need to sandblast everything and put a coat of paint on it. It should look brand new once everyting is done. I started with the easiest things first. The axle shaftsthat came with the surplus axle were pretty rusted so I hit them with sand and threw some high temp paint on them. I have never seen red before but i think it will make the black on the axle stick out more. Lets hope so
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Re: Front 10 Bolt Teardown / Rebuild PICTURES!
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Re: Front 10 Bolt Teardown / Rebuild PICTURES!
Can a moderator move this to the 1973 - 1987 Chevrolet & GMC Pickups Message Board. Most people dont use 10 bolts in the 4x4 section. Thanks in advance
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Re: Front 10 Bolt Teardown / Rebuild PICTURES!
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Re: Front 10 Bolt Teardown / Rebuild PICTURES!
I would say the 10 bolt and 44 are the most common 4x4 front axles as not everyone can afford the 60s and they're highly underrated for what they can do i ran a stock 10b on 38.5s and ran the truck a little too hard and never had a problem but i was only mudding and hill climbing and some trails where binding was never an issue, now i refuse to sell the axle cause i like it so much if this d60 doesn't straighten out im putting it back in
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Re: Front 10 Bolt Teardown / Rebuild PICTURES!
Sorry guys I didnt realize all that haha Appreciate the info, and ill finish out the thread in this spot.
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Re: Front 10 Bolt Teardown / Rebuild PICTURES!
Looking forward to it. When I did my D44 hubs, I could have used a good primer like this. There may be some differences, but by and large, very similar.
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Re: Front 10 Bolt Teardown / Rebuild PICTURES!
nice write up...
why didn't you just strip a dana44 if that's what you wanted? I've seen those surplus axles for sale and they were salty for what you got... hope your deal was better... |
Re: Front 10 Bolt Teardown / Rebuild PICTURES!
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Re: Front 10 Bolt Teardown / Rebuild PICTURES!
I used a 10 bolt as well but searched around until I found one with 3.73 gears. Since most front axles hardly get used I figured that i'd just put in new ujoints and go with it...
I found that all parts from the ujoints and out are the same on the 10 bolt and dana 44. The banjo bolt on the calipers moved to a metric at one point.... |
Re: Front 10 Bolt Teardown / Rebuild PICTURES!
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But...you wanted to regear, so thus the tear down. |
Re: Front 10 Bolt Teardown / Rebuild PICTURES!
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Re: Front 10 Bolt Teardown / Rebuild PICTURES!
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Re: Front 10 Bolt Teardown / Rebuild PICTURES!
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Re: Front 10 Bolt Teardown / Rebuild PICTURES!
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Re: Front 10 Bolt Teardown / Rebuild PICTURES!
WoW.
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Re: Front 10 Bolt Teardown / Rebuild PICTURES!
I think you will miss not having the spreader when you set up your new gears. When I set up my 12 bolt the hardest part of setting the ring gear bearing preload was getting thin shims in without bending them.
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Re: Front 10 Bolt Teardown / Rebuild PICTURES!
So what happened to the end of this?
I see a few glaring errors and some un-necessary steps, but the pics of the tear-down are great. Some of the mis-steps were brought out by others along the way, but I still have a few observations. First, let me say that the spreader is not necessary.....that's a D60 thing. If it really is that tight, there is too much pre-load on the bearings. Second, you should not be pounding on the shims to insert them. The whole thing goes in together, shims, carrier, races, all at once. Third, there is a specific tool for pulling the spindle w/o hammering on it. I have seen many of them damaged that way. Also, don't forget/ignore the bearing and seal inside the spindle. Somewhere along the line, the locking hubs were replaced. The originals would have been automatics. Last and most importantly, ring and pinion swapping is not a simple "bolt in" thing. There is a lot of tedious fitting/shimming, removing and re-installing to get the set-up perfect. There is also the need of some rather specialized tools to consider. |
Re: Spindle Removal / How to Remove a Spindle on GM 10 Bolt
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