Re: Pulling motor question
 

My fork does not have any slots. It’s all solid, one piece.

Re: Pulling motor question
 

The different height throw out bearings are for Borg & Beck (three-"finger") or diaphragm clutch (many "fingers"). I don't remember which one goes to which, though.

Re: Pulling motor question
 

In the picture you posted, you do have the bearing oriented correctly. The clutch fork has two tines that ride in the grooved area on the throw out bearing. When installed correctly, you should have one tine on top and one on the bottom, and they should be about center on the bearing.

The height difference is for the different clutch fingers. I ran into this 2 years ago when I did my engine swap and also put in a different clutch. I used the many finger style clutch, but for the life of me, I can't remember which bearing I ended up using. Anyways, if you didn't change the clutch, and you get a new bearing, just match it up with the one you pulled out

Re: Pulling motor question
 

Started getting the rest of it together and tried spinning the starter. It just clicks. Sounds like the solenoid is kicking out the gear, but it is not spinning the motor. So, either my battery doesn't have enough power or there's something wrong with the way I installed it.
Geez, so close.

Re: Pulling motor question
 

There are two diaphragm type pressure plates.
The flat finger which uses a long tob and the raised finger which uses a short tob.
The raised finger style was developed because the flat finger type would tend to overcentre and the fingers would stick in the opposite direction. High rpm did that. When the rpm dropped again the fingers would violently snap back to normal.
The early 64-66 Chevelle and gto’s had the problem. Clutch pedal would stick to the floor, you’d lift the gas pedal, rpm dropped and bang. Back to normal. If you were lucky it didn’t destroy a few parts.
It was a holy crap movement when it happened to me.
IIRC Borg and beck took a mid length tob as did the long style.
Borg and beck used mostly by mopar. Long style used by ford.

Re: Pulling motor question
 

Now that I’m getting ready for bed, I’m wondering if I need to have the key switch in the “on” position. I connected a remote switch from the battery + to the “S” terminal on the starter. I remember doing this before, with compression checks. I don’t think I had the key switch on. I don’t think that is necessary.

Re: Pulling motor question
 

If the starter is clicking, start with making sure your battery has enough juice. You want to see at least 12.3 ish volts at your battery to start with

Re: Pulling motor question
 

I do have at least 12.5 volts.

Re: Pulling motor question
 

Got a good ground from engine to frame? Also, double check your wires on the starter.

Here's how my wires were run before I did my engine swap and installed an HEI dizzy. The HEI removed the double wire closest to you in the picture

Re: Pulling motor question
 

Wiring should be correct. Purple wire goes to S terminal, the other double wire goes to R terminal.

Re: Pulling motor question
 

I would try it with the key in the on position.

On my truck, the battery grounded to the block, and then the block grounded through the engine mount bolts to the frame stand. I didn't think that was sufficient, so I put a ground strap from the same lug on the block where the battery ground was to a clean spot on the frame rail. I used an existing hole in the frame, so no drilling was necessary

Re: Pulling motor question
 

I’ll check with the key switch on, and I don’t think I connected the frame ground to the block yet. Hopefully, that’s it.

EDIT: Ok, I messed up - forgot to connect the wire from the battery to the BATT terminal on the starter; it was resting on the frame member, couldn’t see it. Works great now.

However, trying to start the motor... got oil, coolant, everything hooked up, but just not starting. I think it’s turning over too slow? My battery seems weak, like it’s just not strong enough.
Going to charge it and maybe get a jump from another spare battery.

Re: Pulling motor question
 

It runs!
Finally got it running!!
Just hope everything stays together. ��

https://youtu.be/yIh-LFWpR48

Re: Pulling motor question
 

Sounds good! :metal:

Re: Pulling motor question
 

It is green! (ST:TNG joke) Sounds like a little tappet noise, and some adjustments needed, but much better than before. Congrats! Nice work! I bet it feels really good, right about now, after all that labor and money! :metal:

Re: Pulling motor question
 

Thanks!
Yeah, what a relief. Still need to run it, break it in, but at least it’s running.
And, not that much money. At least for this time around. Gasket set, rings, miscellaneous stuff like paint and oil.

Re: Pulling motor question
 

The first go-around I had the valves adjusted way too tight. Could hardly get it to fire. Checked compression and realized it was really low. As soon as I backed off the valves, it got compression and I was able to start it up.

What is the best way to adjust these valves? Last time I tried, I could not distinguish the tapping. Maybe my exhaust was too loud. Plus, it gets oil everywhere, such a mess. And, I don’t have a spare valve cover to cut up.

Re: Pulling motor question
 

Get yourself a set of oil deflectors like this at your local auto parts store-

https://www.jbtools.com/vim-tools-v1...iABEgKj0vD_BwE

Re: Pulling motor question
 

I didn’t even know those existed. Maybe I could make one? Where would it attach? Anyone have pics of a home made one?

Re: Pulling motor question
 

These just keep the oil from spraying out of the pushrod tube, correct?

Re: Pulling motor question
 

Yes. They're only 7 bucks, man! I'd loan you mine, but postage would be more than they are worth. You might be able to trick out a few folds of aluminum foil, or something.

Re: Pulling motor question
 

Gonna give this a try, just stuff laying around.

Re: Pulling motor question
 

You need a bigger chunk of cardboard than that.
Just use a 6 inch wide piece bent around just like the shape of the valve cover.
If you haven’t broke in your cam yet I wouldn’t keep idling it. You might get unlucky and get to rebuild it completely.

Re: Pulling motor question
 

Cam was not changed. Should rpm fluctuate for breaking in rings?

Re: Pulling motor question
 

I thought you changed cam and lifters!
Anywho rings need load on them to seat.
Acceleration and deceleration.
I used to go on a 100 mile loop. Hard acceleration, then steady variable cruising and using motor to slow down.
Doesn’t hurt to run at a higher rpm for 10 minutes on first start up. That ensures adequate oil splash everywhere.