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Dont leave out the trusty Lincoln. I got one from Home Depot for about $360 and for another $100 you can get the regulator kit to run shielding gas. Its a wire welder and plugs into any 110 socket. Like I said, with the reg kit, you can be miggin'!
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what do you guys think of this welder?
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...seBVCookie=Yes Plugs into 115V, 20 amp outlet. 4 voltage settings and continuous wire feed speed. Welds mild steel, 24 ga. - 1/8 in. thick. Safety feature keeps wire electrically "cold" until trigger is pressed. Includes gun and cable assembly, work cable and clamp, gas nozzle, gas regulator and hose Solid wire spool, contact tips, handshield, spool of fluxcored wire, chipping hammer/brush |
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got a esab migmaster 173 a fue weeks back and i was welding my floors and rockers in and it works great i also made a rear drop panhard bar and it welds just as good as the miller 251s at work. i paid a little over a grand for it in $cad. its a good deal imo, considering the millers run in the 4+ range.
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Ok I just got myy bottle of gas and going to start my welding skills back up. The question I have is what size wire for what steel? Im going to do some body work, (roll pan,, shaved doors) and the Notchin the fram :) Right now I have a roll of .023 and .025 Ive tried to look through the forum for postings but either Ive over looked it or its not thier..
Thanks every one! |
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23 and 25 are ok for what your doing.
if your doing a lot of panel work you may want to try http://cgi.ebay.com/New-JW-Harris-20...QQcmdZViewItem I use it a lot and its very good on panels and frame work. |
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If you are looking at spending around $1500 for a welder, spend a little more and get a Miller 251. They run about $1800. It has a variable voltage control instead of "settings". I find that most welders never have the setting I want on sheetmetal. One is a little too cold, the next is a little too hot. So, If you are not an expert, the settings give you a choice of burn- thru or chicken poop. The only welder I ever ran with settings I liked for thin sheetmetal was a Snap-On YA212A IND. It has 12 voltage settings. I don't have it anymore, wish I did. At the time I bought it, there was no question in my mind that I wanted the tried & true Milller 210. Snap- On & Miller both wanted me to buy their welder. I told both of them to leave them to demo for a week, and that next week someone was going to make a sale, the other would be loading up. I was surprised myself that I liked the Snap- On machine better, and it was quite a bit more expensive than the Miller.
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Both Lincoln and Miller make nice small 110 welders. I have had a Lincoln 135 for many years running .035 flux core (inner shield) and that will weld safely up to about 3/16 MAX!! anything thicker and your really pushing it even with allot of skill its hard to get proper penetration. Ive run it with hard wire(.030) and gas(75-25 argon CO2) and I didn't like how it ran, not hot enough, BUT it does run it well enough to weld body panels but it needs to be maxed out on power. I also have a miller-matic 210 that can run any wire and gas I could need in my garage. You can buy Anti-spatter spray from weld shops and even home depot sells it. It makes clean up from flux core wire much easier. Get a wire brush for your angle grinder that will get most off anyway. I say this for safety and for piece of mind. You do not want to weld something together on a truck that can be worth more than 100 of those crappy welders. also you can have the best, latetest and greatest welding machine in the world but if the operator is inexperienced it makes hardly a difference. practice and have someone experienced help out. and practice more. LOL |
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Harber Freight has these on sale for $99
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=94056 |
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What about this one instead???
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=55525 |
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LOL!! no man they are not decent or reliable welders. I know they are cheap. you are getting what you pay for them. They might work OK for a awhile but not reliably or consistently There truly is a reason they can sell them for so much less than a quality welder. Check out Miller Lincoln and Hobart, all these companies do is make welding machines and supplies.
check these out http://www.mylincolnelectric.com/Cat...eet.asp?p=2515 http://www.millerwelds.com/products/...llermatic_140/ thats a prefect start and don't sweat the the MSRP you can always find better deals on the internet or shopping around town very reliable and parts like tips nozzles and everything else is easy to find. I fabricate/weld for a living and I'm not paid to sell this stuff i use much bigger machines for work but at home i have had the lincoln 135 for 5 years and its been used hard and have never had trouble with it also i have a Miller 210 MIG welder for bigger jobs. AND you can have them serviced if something goes bad in them you don't have to buy a new one. hope this helps out... . |
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dish soap works pretty good for "de-spat"...
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I signed up for a Beginning and Intermediate class at the local VO-TECH, starts next week. Anxious to begin. Then I will pick out a welder. |
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Regardless of which brand you go with I would highly recommend buying from a welding supply house. I manage a welding supply store and could go on all day about horror stories from people who purchased online. Everything from getting damaged machines to missing parts and everything in between. And when they do have a problem they are usually on their own. I can always get very close to the online guys prices if not beat them. Then when you have a problem we are there to take care of it for you. We dont claim to know everything about the machines, this would be impossible with the constant changes in technology, but we can always get you a straight up answer. If a customer requests it I will always go to his shop and set it up and do a demo for them. We sell ESAB, Miller, and Lincoln and I will say that we have by far the least problems with the ESAB. They all have good machines however Lincoln in my opinion has very poor support. The ESAB will also give you more welder for your money. They offer the Migmaster 203 for around $1275.00 and it will do an excellent job of anything you will encounter in a bodyshop. It has 12 voltage taps,will accept up to 45# spools of wire, has a spot timer, comes standard with a 13' gun, is gas ready, has a running gear so no need for a cart, is spoolgun ready, and welds increadibly smooth through the entire voltage range. IMO buy a good one once and it will last you for a lifetime.
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Not another Harbor Freight question. I promise!
Has anyone used or had experience with this one? I can't find anything on it except the reviews on the site, and I'm always a bit wary when it's the company's own site. It looks and sounds ok, though. http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...2691_200332691 |
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www.accustrike.com
love the quote on this helmet: "As one welder so eloquently put it: This helmet cuts down on the cussing." ive been welding for about 5 years now at the Trane Company here in Pueblo, Co. we make large industrial size water chillers. love the welders they have here are the Maxstar 300 Series tig welders and the Miller Delta 450 which is a high voltage mig and spray welder. we weld plates 1/4 to 3/4 plates i also plan to buy a welder and did see some good welders on craiglist like miller 251 mig and miller 210 mig go for under $700 might want to check there!!!:metal: |
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I got a couple of 1lb rolls of Hobart .024 wire as a sample and really like it. It might even be enough to finish this job out and I wont have to go and pay for more. A .023 tip should work with .025 wire also. I am running the 24 with them and it works fine. I don't think an extra thou or 2 will jam it up. |
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what do you guys think of this welder? for like body work?????? yes or no
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...keyword=welder |
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for thin sheet metal I think you would be OK with that welder. If run with 75% argon 25% CO2 it should be real nice.
I wouldn't weld anything structural with it though. 1/8" might even be too thick for it. even though it says it can do it. |
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that one from the depot is not set up to run with gas. The inner shield (gassless-flux core wire) will work fine but it makes a mess with all the spatter. Allot of clean up is required even if you use anti-spatter spray.
it will weld the sheet metal fine though |
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http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...ctId=100093231 |
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so this one will work better for body work and replacement plate on my project truck?? |
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Yes that one would be nice to use for what your doing
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thanks for the help guys :metal:
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Okay gents - after reviewing this thread and some stuff online...
It would appear that my needs are a welder that can replace/repair the following: Body Panels, Rockers, Floor Pans, Floor Supports, (No Frame Work needed) So that puts me in the search for the following for the best results: MIG Welder - with Gas Gas = 75% (Argon) + 25% (CO2) or straight CO2 Dependable - Hobart, Lincoln, Miller, etc. Since I don't have 220 in the garage - that limits my options... I am also searching for a local vocational class to learn how to weld - I have no experience at all - know nothing about welding...but have wanted to learn for quite some time - just never had a project that needed it...that is until now. I did a search on CL and Ebay and found a few welders in my area - any of these good for what I need? Is Clarke a good line of welders? http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZgr8deal4u20 Thanks everybody! |
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you dont need a 220v welder. those lincolns (in the links above) are only 115v and its fine.
Ive had a Lincoln SP-135 for years. Its more than enough for sheet metal. I have a miller matic 210 also but sometimes favor the smaller Lincoln because I can put it in the back of the truck or under if I have to get into tight places that the bigger one wont reach. (body work) I paid about 400 for the Lincoln 5 or 6 years ago and the 3200 version is the same thing just a newer model number. Im not familiar with Clarke machines. |
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Well - I decided to call the guys at Clarke to see if they had any cheap welders lying around from demos and displays (stranger things have happened) - since after doing some more research I found out that their Corporate HQ is about 15 mins from my house/work.
The guy says that if I buy used it won't come with the 10/2 year warranty that basically covers everything for 2 years and the major stuff for the next 8 years... They guy asks what I will be using it for - he says that Tractor Supply Company has the Clarke135SG model on clearance right now - then gives me the SKU - then he tells me that it is on sale for just under $200 - so I do some searching online for the model - and the cheapest place online is around $600... So I call around and the closest store to me (5 mins away) is sold out - he checks the store across town (15 mins away) - they have one left...so I call them. The person checks the inventory and says they have one (on the computer), but to call later to verify that they have it (no wasted trip for me). Just before leaving work - I call - new girl - she will have to check and call me back...so I leave work driving the wrong direction from the store I need to go to...get home and they call (it figures) - they have it... 20 minutes later I am in TSC looking for it - I find it - EXCEPT it is marked down again to $140 :metal:- so I figured I would pass on the news that the Tractor Supply Company in your area may have this model on clearance for dirt cheap if you are looking for a MIG welder that can use gas as well and comes with a 10 yr warranty. Ask for SKU = 3806374 I will still need to buy/rent a regulator and a tank, but $140 for a welder out the door was a good deal to me. Now I just have to wait for it to warm up to try it. Here are the specs: http://store.weldingdepot.com/cgi/we...ot/WE6441.html Thanks for your help everybody! |
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I didn't read all the post so I'm sure I'll be repetitive, I got my millermatic
140 autoset about 9 months ago. It is truly a might-mite. The rocker describe in a thread i posted in general discussion a month or so back. We have had over 600 pounds of people on it and tried to turn it over just to make sure it was safe. The trailer dolly has moved the trailer with the motor, engine stand and shop crane on it. All these were welded with gas(75/25) wire speed 40-60 and set on 7-9, gas flow set on 20. Suface prep a must. Some back cut on thicker stuff. With only 20% duty cycle, that 2 minutes of welding per 10 minutes of 12 minutes per hour, you see why you can't use this size commercially. The littler stuff you can turn down the heat. I can weld some now and some day hope some one might consider me a welder. This little mig can weld stainless. Again you can't be fast enough to make a living. It can weld aluminum with the new spool gun Miller has come out with for the 140 and 180. I have not tried this yet, but 9 months ago I had never welded. The miller cost 629, helmet 130, gloves 10, 11lb wire 45. I went to a miller dealer and probably won't beat any "deals". But if I have any trouble they got my back. get a welder, get metal and start melting it together, you will get better and with mig it goes faster than the other types. There are plenty of welders that are not fans of mig. But I think the stuff my little 140 has done so far, passes muster. Hope I have been of some help I did all this stuff because it was enjoyable and to practice before I started on my truck. Now I have the joy of welding and fixing my truck, priceless. |
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Is there a Lincoln welder that runs on 110 that can weld sheetmetal and frames?
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this one will do it. http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...ctId=100093231
I would use .035 inner shield wire (no gas) to weld a frame. BUT !! if you are new to welding, it would not be smart to weld a frame together. If the welds fail people could die. Have someone that has good experience help out on that. A more powerful welder would be the best thing for a frame but that little one can do it, its the operator that will be the variable. |
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no worries I'm going to take a class and lots o practice before i dig into my truck
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A 110 volt welder will work great for almost any work you will do at home, but only if you follow correct procedures. NEVER run larger than .030 innershield (flux-core) wire in a 110 volt machine. Also never run larger than .025 hard wire in one of these welders either. These 110 volt machines will weld with the larger wires, but they use too much of their power melting the wire rather than penetrating the base metal. I know of people that weld body panels with cored wire but this is not a good idea because of slag inclusions caused by not being able to generate enough heat to float the slag to the surface of the weld. Over time a weld that has slag inclusions will fail. This is another good argument for spending the extra money on a MIG machine (one that you can run a shielding gas with). Spend the money for a good machine or you are just wasting your time. If you can't afford to buy the right tool for the job then maybe knitting is a better hobby.
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I have had a lincoln weld pack 100 for about 12 years, it has been a great machine. I have always used it with flux core and never had any problems! Yes it does require a little more clean up ( flux core), but for the price it's still a great buy. Perfect for the guy that just want's to do some patches, rockers etc. I have welded 1/4 in plate to repair some of my snow plows with NO failures, years of abuse on the welds. But 1/4 is definitely the very end of it's capibility and not really sugested. At the time 110 welders were in their infancy, and now I will probably step up to a 3200 lincoln with gas when I get my new shop set up. A good 110v machine with flux core should work fine to get any one started. As practice, experiance, and $ allow, you can always step up to a bigger better machine. Some one will always buy your old one as long as it's in good condition! The guy that taught me could weld 2 razor blades together, I'm not that good but I learned a lot from him. I have experiance with other 220v migs, but the weld pack is what I use on my projects at home. Mostly sheet metal, light tubing ( exhaust)
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Miller Matic 135, Thermal Dynamics Pak 38 Plasma
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I bought a miller matic 185 off ebay for 805.00 total with shipping and all. It came with everything minus the tank. It came with the cart, cable, wire, ect.. This welder has everything you need and it is 220. The guy i got it from is a dealer so you get the warrantee and everything check it out they are all over ebay.
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i just bought a hobart 210 handler yesterday, and now im learning to use it.. i like it alot! welds 24 ga. - 3/8 ''.. its nice setup, a little pricey though
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Well it`s a little late to ask now since I already bought it but what about the Matco auto Arc 140A? It`s suppost to be made by Miller for Matco. It`s alot more than I wanted to pay but I didn`t have the cash to buy one outright and I was able to put this on my Matco credit account. Here are the specs on it from Matco`s site,
Operates off 115 Volt standard household current for maximum versatility. 20 amp breaker. Welds from 24 gauge to 1/4" in a single pass. With an amperage output range of 25-140, easily handles a broad range of wires from mild steel, stainless and aluminium from .023 to .035 diameters and even gasless. 5 yr. Warranty on Transformer, 3 yr. on Electronics and 1 yr. on Torch. Built-in contactor eases use and is an excellent safety feature which makes wire electrically "cold" when not welding. Four output voltage settings with wire feed speed tracking provide quick and easy adjustment for different materials and thicknesses. Welds with all wires including gasless on 2# & 10# spools. Comes complete with 10' Miller Welding Gun, built-in gas valve, regulator and gas hose, power cord w/plug, 10 ft. work cable w/clamp, extra contact tips, sample spool of wire, weld set-up and parts info. chart, 8 in. wire spool adapter and owner's manual. I want to be able to weld in body panels and some frame work like MII set ups, boxing frame rails and maybe 4 link set ups. I had a Lincoln weld pak 100 years ago and was able to box the frame on my old 57 chevy p/u that I put a MII set up on but it would`nt touch the 5/16" crossmember. I ended up using a borrowed stick welder to tack it in place and had a firend come over with a big 220V lincoln and finish it up. |
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I just bought a replacement gun for one of our cheapo lincoln welders at work. It is a Radnor unit from Airgas. It didn't cost any more than the lincoln replacement gun, but it is SO nice. The quality is right up there with the $1000 gun on my Miller suitcase. If anyone needs to replace the gun on a welder, I strongly recommend taking a look at one of these.
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