Re: 69 c50
 

No, just changing the Wheels, not breaking down the Tires. Breaking down and changing the Tires on the Rims is best left to the experts. If you get help on YouTube, make sure it's accurate.

Also want to remind you that you will need to Drain your Air Tank(s). I used to drain mine at least once a week. If the temperature is above freezing, I would recommend to drain them before your trip.

Re: 69 c50
 

Did they tell you what kind of top end speed it did?

Re: 69 c50
 

I'll check into the tire changing now. The temp will be below freezing here until at least Tuesday. There's an air leak somewhere in the system that causes the air to bleed off... that's another issue that I'll be dealing with tomorrow if the flywheel isn't in a sweet spot.

They've had it for 4 or 5 years and it almost never went out on the road. It was a yard truck they used for moving trailers around. I got no insite on the top speed but I'll deal with whatever it is. My fingers are crossed it's the OD transmission but I don't know until later and was willing to take the chance.

I forgot to mention my daughter has no idea I got it yet! I can't wait to see the look on her face when I pull in with it!!

Re: 69 c50
 

If it only has a Pick-up truck type Gas Tank (18 Gal?), I would probably figure it on the very low side of 4 MPG. Which means no more than 72 miles to play it safe. Then once you fill it up again, you can judge from there.

It must have been a very local Road Tractor. I don't believe I ever heard of one without a saddle tank. You could always add one later if you wanted to.

Re: 69 c50
 

He said it holds roughly 20 gallons of gas so it's going to be interesting. It looks as if it could have had a saddle tank at one point in life. It is 50 years old and who knows what it's gone though in its life. I will definatly be putting one on it later for sure.

I'll let you guys know how it turns out tomorrow

Re: 69 c50
 

By the way, when you mentioned an air leak. Make sure your Low Air Pressure Buzzer is working.

Re: 69 c50
 

More for me to Google :lol: I doubt much of anything works like it should
Anything else you or anyone else can think of keep it coming please.

Re: 69 c50
 

I might suggest when you do the wiring get a complete wiring kit, fuse panel and such. I prefer American Autowire. They have a complete fuse block and all the needed wiring. Very easy to install and looks good installed. Just me but I like the confidence e knowing I have no wiring issues now. It's like the brakes, you dont want to short cut it.
Plus it makes it easy for expansion.

Re: 69 c50
 

I agree 100%. I absolutly hate wiring! Buuut... If I do it all and know where and how everything is run then it's not too bad. Right now my main concern is getting it home and taking care of all the known issues over the next year. It's too big to fit in my garage and I'm not sitting out in the cold working on it.

I bought 25 and 30 amp glass fuses. I hope the blower just has a blown fuse and it's not more wiring then that. If that doesn't work in going to run a hot wire from the battery to the blower and if it kicks on I'll put a fuse block and toggle in for the ride home.

Re: 69 c50
 

Where is the low air pressure buzzer located?

Re: 69 c50
 

Nice looking C60! Looking at the Dayton hubs and rims, it appears you may already have tubeless rims. If so you would be in tall cotton. The only downside to air brakes is the CDL issues. If you can get around that you will never want anything but air brakes again. Air brakes have slack adjusters on each wheel that are very easy to adjust, just make sure they are within tolerance. Small amounts of air leaks are normal. For a truck to hold air overnight is the exception rather than the rule. The systems have lots of connections and small leaks add up. My rule of thumb is no hissing or audible detectable leaks. If you can track the leak down, then fix it. Just don't sweat a bunch about air leaking off overnight. Regarding moisture, you need to drain the tanks on a regular basis. Newer brake slack adjusters are auto adjusting. If you do not have auto adjusting they are easy to add and not very expensive.

Re: 69 c50
 

Thanks! I'm just excited and want to get it home now! Fortunately here in Michigan there are ways around the CDL since I'll only be using it for personal use. I don't like a question in anything and brakes are what I was concerned most about. Once I get it home and the weather warms up you can bet I'll be all over every square inch of it.

I already have short term plans for it and eventual plans also. Once it's home I will be writing down a solid plan in order and go from there. Everything on the truck needs some attention in my eyes but I'm extremely picky and only seem to get more picky with age.

Thanks for all the tips, I'm still researching also and once I get it home I'll be able to see exactly what I'm working with.

Re: 69 c50
 

If the truck has an air leak, most likely when you jump in the truck, the Air Pressure will be down or out. When down about 30 Lbs from full, or a little lower, the Buzzer will come on. If you somehow have full pressure when you first get in the truck, keep pumping the Air Brakes till the Buzzer comes on. Hopefully the Air Pressure Gauge works. It should be mechanical. If the Gauge works, but the Buzzer doesn't for some reason, keep a consistent eye on the Gauge while driving it.

Re: 69 c50
 

I will do. I'm heading out the door here in less then an hour so wish me luck

Re: 69 c50
 

i dont know about these older trucks but the newer stuff its 60psi buzzer on or lower .

Re: 69 c50
 

She's home. What a ride! It took just over 4 hours to get it here. Not one issue that slowed me down aside from the 3 stops to fill it up. I averaged 5-6 mpg and was spinning her fast. Top speed going down hill was 58 mph and the truck itself felt great at that speed but the motor wasn't too happy.
The air brakes are awesome! The gauge does work and it stayed at just over 110 psi the whole time. A truck that size isn't supposed to stop that fast.
I have to let my ears relax now. They're sensitive since it was so loud for so long. I had ear plugs somewhere but couldn't find them.

Re: 69 c50
 

That's great. Keep us posted on the progress. Upload some detail pics when you get time. Congratulations

Re: 69 c50
 

Glad to see that everything worked out fine.

Must be nice to have it home now.

Re: 69 c50
 

Will do on the pictures. I tried to run a hot wire from the battery to the blower. It spun a few times so I went ahead a put a fuse block in and hooked it up and the blower was dead.... it was a cold ride home for sure but I brought my carhartts with me just in case. It sure does feel good having it here. Once the weather breaks the work can start on it. Turns out it has no lights but headlights too so that'll be a good starting point.
The valves need adjusted too. One thing at a time

Re: 69 c50
 

I'm looking into flywheels now. I'm trying to figure out exactly what one I will need. Correct me if I'm wrong here please. I think I need a 14" internally balanced 168 tooth flywheel right?

Re: 69 c50
 

On the light issue, check the fuses, most likely the problem, if not the bulb. Be sure to use dielectric grease on the bulb sockets, it will save you lots of problems down the road. What kind of parking brake does it have?

Re: 69 c50
 

Fuses all seemed good, I have all new to install when it warms up just in case. I use dielectric grease on everything. For parking brake it has the air obviously and then it has the emergency brake I guess we can call it, the drum mounted to the back of the transmission. It is in working order believe it or not

Re: 69 c50
 

Does it have spring brakes on the rear axle?

Re: 69 c50
 

If you have spring parking air brakes (bottom picture), they are the best parking brake to have. Some air parking brakes rely on air pressure to hold them on and will release once air pressure leaks off. I had a 1968 GMC 9500 that did not have spring parking brakes, just the lever transmission drum brake. It was a poor setup as you would set the air parking brake and the drum, then the air would leak off and the truck could overpower the manual brake and roll.

Re: 69 c50
 

Yes it does. That's why it was a pain to get it running. I ended up taking an air tank with me so I could pull start it. I usually leave a manual transmission in reverse when I stop and set the parking brake. No need to on this truck.

Re: 69 c50
 

Wonderful, you are in good shape. FYI any truck shop can supply you with T bolts that go in the end of the air cylinder and manually compress the brakes to pull the springs off. Good to have a set of these in the glove box.

Re: 69 c50
 

That's good to know! Once I get my hands on whatever fly wheel I need or fix the current one it shouldn't be an issue. I fixed one air leak earlier. There's more, my wife could hear it when I parked it. Unfortunately for me I'm half deaf with a sore back, I'll find more later. It's way too cold to even be outside messing with it. Thanks for the info!

Re: 69 c50
 

Another safety feature is that in the event of loss of air pressure, the brakes apply and provide maximum brake force on the rear axle. Best brakes to have, I think the government has reduced truck safety with the CDL air brake requirement, as all truck should have air brakes. Yes you have to get used to the power and application, still the only way to quickly stop a heavy load. My truck has juice brakes which work excellent, but they are no match for well adjusted air brakes. I have found that air brakes provide the least problems and are easier to work on when necessary. Just keep your tank drained and air dryer serviced if equipped.

Re: 69 c50
 

Talk about a learning curve trying to get used to them. I moved the brake pedal about a quarter of an inch or so and locked up the tires the first time I hit the brakes pulling out :lol: I ended up having to stop in a hurry when I got close to home, same thing. That'll wake you up in a hurry!

Re: 69 c50
 

I was wondering if you had a Maxi Brake (Spring Brakes).

It is one of the best inventions ever made.

Two of my trucks did not have them, but my '71 9500 did.

Re: 69 c50
 

I remember that learning curve. When you get use to having them you will wonder why you car brakes won't stop!

Re: 69 c50
 

It's right up there with sliced bread for sure!

Re: 69 c50
 

I've only driven her 200 miles and loved it. I wasn't loving stopping for fuel 3x though. It definatly doesn't have an OD. Pulling some of the hills today I went from 55 to 46. She definatly needs some looking into with that. It has a misfire and I'm going to adjust the valves when it warms up enough, that won't be soon. She was happiest down low in the rpms for sure. It reminded me of the diesel trucks I've had.

I'm still looking at options for an OD transmission. 1st gear isn't needed while empty at all. I put the rear end in high and kept it there the whole way home. 1st gear low I'm sure I could pull a mountain at 1/4 mph

Re: 69 c50
 

To keep it basically original, you have 3 options. The OD Trans would be the nicest and the easiest. Another is that you could try to find another Rear with Higher Gears. The 3rd would be installing an Aux Trans that would include an OD. You would then have 2 Sticks. With that you could give up your 2-Speed Rear if you wanted to.

Re: 69 c50
 

I don't mind shying away from original. I believe an era correct OD transmission is between .77-.80 ratio. I'm not sure what that would translate to in mph. A shear guess would be around 65 and using 1st to take off would then be a must. I'm sure that would be the cheapest and most efficient way to go about it.

As far as newer OD transmissions that would live in the truck I'm pretty well clueless at this point. Any input on that?

I'm getting a lot of mixed info on the flywheel and exactly which one I need still too.

Re: 69 c50
 

Tune it up and try it for a while. These engines are made to turn higher RPM's, 3500 to 4000 was pretty normal on the 454 I drove.

Re: 69 c50
 

Without a tack I was going on feel. I was pushing it. The exhaust was so loud in the cab! A buddy of mine who was following behind me said it was insanely loud to him back there! A set of headers, new mufflers and extend the tail pipes back are a must too

Re: 69 c50
 

I ran a set of 2.5" flowmaster HP2 on my 366. They have a great sound and the small tube shape leaves lots of room for future modifications. I ran turn downs just beyond the rear of the cab. Very happy.

Re: 69 c50
 

I want to talk about tires. These ones are ok for what I'll be doing any time soon. The fronts are 20/9.00R20 and the rears are 295/75R22.5. I've been doing a lot of searching on them and before I got the truck home was under the impression that they were rare tires. Googling the tires I'm finding them for good prices in an abundance. Am I missing something? I did look at my tires and they have tubes. Is it just a matter of buying tires and then tubes and calling it good? What I'm seeing is roughly $1500 in tires and tubes unless I'm missing something. If I'm not that seems like a good price for a piece of mind. I have spent $2200 on 4 tires for an F250 once

Re: 69 c50
 

You want the 22.5s. They are the common truck tire today. The 295s are considered low profiles and are close to the diameter of the 20" original fronts. When you change the fronts, get the same 22.5 size. The 22.5s are also tubeless. When you change the fronts to 22.5 you can buy the rims used for about $50, pretty plentiful. They will match up to the Dayton hubs without modification