Re: First Steps LS Swap......
 

How is the price of the Holley Vs Dirty Dingo brackets?

Re: First Steps LS Swap......
 

I think they are similar and they both work equally as well. I like the Holley ones because they are cast and look like factory OEM brackets.

You can get a complete kit, just AC or just ALT/PS.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-20-132/overview/

You have to buy a spacer kit for your engine. There are 3 types, Corvette, Fbody, truck and 2010+ Camaro's.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/b...t%20Components

Re: First Steps LS Swap......
 

I don't remember if the Holley was offered when I purchased my DD brackets, but I do like the holley set up

Re: First Steps LS Swap......
 

I think they have only been out for around a year. Like I said, they both function equally is well, I just prefer the looks of the Holley ones, and for full disclosure, I'm NOT getting any KICKBACKS from Holley....:lol:.

Re: First Steps LS Swap......
 

I looked at them last night, the Holley ones are about $149 from Summit for just the A/C side. Looking at the instructions they can be run on one side like the Dirty Dingo. Not 100% sure which one I will use yet.

Re: First Steps LS Swap......
 

Rob, your projects always look awesome. I am doing the truck to kinda get my feet wet. There's a rolled 34,000 mile 06' GTO out here with an LS2 that's waiting to go in my 68' Camaro.

Re: First Steps LS Swap......
 

When I get back after next week the bed is going to come off the truck and I have to start on the fuel system. I saved all the fuel lines from the donor truck and I plan on using as much of those as I can. It's the kind with the return lines, and there's no inline fuel filter. Do I need to add one? I also looked it the tool in "the alien's" post for doing the fuel lines (push connect ends). The tool is $290, anyone used one? Any helpful hints/ suggestions? Thanks Greg

Re: First Steps LS Swap......
 

Bed is off, crossmember out. Having an issue with the tank….

Re: First Steps LS Swap......
 

Since the rear crossmember had to be removed, I may slide the mounting tabs inside the frame rails. That would raise the filler neck a bit. Any thoughts??

Re: First Steps LS Swap......
 

If my rear cross member wasn't riveted anymore I'd mount the tank with the tabs inside the frame channel.

Re: First Steps LS Swap......
 

I am planning on doing this with my long bed soon. This is great info. I should just come set up a camera in your shop! :lol:

Re: First Steps LS Swap......
 

I have been away a while, but still making a little progress here and there…...

Re: First Steps LS Swap......
 

I snagged this F body pan from a buddy of mine, he had it laying around :metal:

Re: First Steps LS Swap......
 

Test fit everything to make sure the pan and exhaust manifolds worked with the engine mounts I used. It's all good, everything fits on the stock trans crossmember and clears my low hump cab! Pinion angle is good also.

Re: First Steps LS Swap......
 

I pulled it all back out to torque the manifolds and pan. Measured the driveshaft while it was in, had to get it shortened 1/2". Currently working on cover plates for the fire wall. Greg

Re: First Steps LS Swap......
 

Lucky i had almost 6 inches taken out of mine lol

Re: First Steps LS Swap......
 

I had taken about 3" out of it already for the 700R4 I was running. The hope was that it would work as it was, but I guess it's better than being too short. Greg

Re: First Steps LS Swap......
 

you never know i known people who have done the swap and not had to shortern theirs at all

Re: First Steps LS Swap......
 

Hi Greg, in post #87 you asked if anyone has used the $290.00 mastercool hydralic flaring tool? I'm a past ase mechanic and it's the greatest tool. I make brake lines and a few fuel lines for friends (i live in the salt belt), and the tool is a breeze. If you plan on making your own lines of any kind just buy it, you won't regret it. On another prior post you asked about the 2 lines from the tank? Quick connect goes to fuel rail, black plastic ended line is tank vapor line to canister purge solenoid most likely on the forward top location on intake manifold. Good luck, Brian F.

Re: First Steps LS Swap......
 

I have the cover plates done and the engine sitting back in place. I'm not too worried about these, they won't be seen anyway just wanted to cover up the holes in the firewall.

Re: First Steps LS Swap......
 

I was already running an aluminum radiator, this is what I came up with for the steam port. I called engineered cooling products to see if there would be any problems with removing the heater hose connection and welding in an aluminum bung with NPT threads. They talked with their engineer, called me back and said it would cause no problems at all.

Re: First Steps LS Swap......
 

I ordered this weld in bung from Jegs, and I have it fit and ready for the weld shop this week. It was a bit nerve racking enlarging the hole while trying to stay off the transmission cooler directly behind it. Once it gets back I have a 1/8 NPT thread to a 5/16 hose barb that will go in. Greg

Re: First Steps LS Swap......
 

I have a question, if I needed a manifold vacuum port, can I break this tab off and put it on this port? Is it that simple?

Re: First Steps LS Swap......
 

Radiator is back from the weld shop!

Re: First Steps LS Swap......
 

Yes just break tab and u have vacumm

Re: First Steps LS Swap......
 

Yes, it's that simple. That's the vacuum source for the HVAC system in vans since they don't use servo actuated blend doors.

Re: First Steps LS Swap......
 

Worked on the front half of the fuel line today. I am using the fuel line from the donor truck, only a few tweaks and it went right in.

Re: First Steps LS Swap......
 

I had to make this one bend here

Re: First Steps LS Swap......
 

and had to tweak it a little to get it off the pinch weld where the toe board meets the fire wall.

Re: First Steps LS Swap......
 

I was able to use the mounting hardware from the donor truck. The bolt for the large bracket matched up to an existing frame hole, but I had to drill one for the alignment tab. The small straps went right in place of the clips for the tail light harness.

Re: First Steps LS Swap......
 

The fuel line bracket at the transmission had to be cut down. The way it was originally mounted, the fuel line was more towards the top of the transmission.

Re: First Steps LS Swap......
 

I had the fuel tank LineX coated, it's ready to be picked up in the morning. I'll start on plumbing the back half next. Greg

Re: First Steps LS Swap......
 

nice job on the install of lines...Jim

Re: First Steps LS Swap......
 

Tank is back from being coated

Re: First Steps LS Swap......
 

Starting on the rear section of the line. I think there was more adjustments in the last foot and a half than in the entire rest of the line.

Re: First Steps LS Swap......
 

I had to straighten the 90 degree bend in this line. I know a few of you probably won't like this, but it's either that or cut the line and use a compression fitting and a repair section from the local parts store.

Re: First Steps LS Swap......
 

Once the line was fairly straight, there was a factory bend farther up the line that needed to be turned back into the frame. After that I used part of the original 90 (I didn't straighten it completely) to make the offset going into the filter/ regulator. Greg

Re: First Steps LS Swap......
 

I scored these fuel lines from the wrecking yard off a 2000/ 2001 truck 5.3 with a return style fuel system. One is 5/16, the other 3/8. The ends will work with the WIX 33737 filter/ regulator and provide locks to make sure the hoses stay on (little extra protection never hurts). I plan on making my own lines from the fuel tank and having the local tube and hose place crimp these factory ends on. My goal was to avoid using AN fittings by using the factory fuel lines from the donor truck, and hopefully with as few splices as possible. Greg

Re: First Steps LS Swap......
 

I figured out a way to use the shift cable from the donor truck!

Re: First Steps LS Swap......
 

There is a pivot joint built into the cable that allows some side to side travel, plus you can just about bend the thing in half and it will still move thru the full travel.