Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

Back to the truck updates, once the stake pocket tie downs were removed, I started looking for an original set of bed rails, since we were in fact using the truck for dump runs of grass clippings every week. Having done the occasional search for authentic bed rails, expectations weren’t very high. Ultimately one of our forum members pointed me to the rails I ultimately installed. They’re identified as mini-tubes and are produced by Perry Craft. They’re very strong and completely fabricated from stainless steel, so they won’t peel and rust like originals:

http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/808/0016gs.jpg

I would still like to have an original set. I like the way the stand up taller and the stands are beautifully sculpted, but I’d never be willing to pay what a mint set would cost.

As winter set in it was time to reinstall the studded tires. Since I was bored with the black rally wheels, I reshot the wheels with Krylon Dull Aluminum.

http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/4152/dsc0001hb.jpg

http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/1946/dsc0008bwr.jpg

If I didn’t already have mags, and if I could have afforded factory beauty rings, I could have been happy leaving these wheels on the truck. Without beauty rings, it looked too plain to me.

This picture was taken just after sunset. The sun had just gone down and the shot was taken with a timer and manual aperture control to keep the lens open for a long time. As mentioned earlier the Blitz Black paint is interesting to photograph because the resulting color is strongly influenced by different light levels.

http://img535.imageshack.us/img535/3609/dsc0004vq.jpg

And this was a test photo with the red metalflake gearshift knob. It’s very cool in real life and looks like a wet Lifesaver. I still prefer the blue one, because the red knob has higher transparency and shows the threaded interior portion of the knob more clearly.

http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/5910/redknob.jpg

Since I didn’t intend to use the truck much during the winter, it was subjected to outdoor storage for the first time since moving to the northwest. It was however intended to be well protected. A tent was erected alongside the house, the truck was covered with the indoor California Car Cover, and a space heater was kept on “frost watch” in the cab. The tent was anchored to concrete in 4 places and also to the truck.

http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/4071/post01.jpg

http://img836.imageshack.us/img836/7445/post02.jpg

http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/7816/post03.jpg

One afternoon we pulled it out for a ride, and after it went back in the tent. The heater was put in position and the cover reinstalled. Unfortunately I didn’t tether the tent to the truck bumpers. Later that night we experienced one of our frequent severe winter storms. It blew roofs off buildings, collapsed some others, and ripped our tent free from the moorings and threw it over the fence into the front yard. Fortunately nothing hit the truck, and the tent couldn’t fly because there were too many straps still attached, but that was the last time the truck spent a night outside.

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

With Newman Lake and Liberty Lakes real close to where you live, I am surprised you are having a hard time finding a photo backdrop !

Not to mention all the parks.

My hope is to one day get permission to photograph our 3 classics in front of the clock tower and the Loof Carousel downtown.

I get what you were saying about making a statement leak proof.
I have to author policy letters, memorandum for records, and standard operating procedure documents all the time. The fact of the matter is you have to make them answer all 5 W (Who, What, Where, When, Why) and close up any loop holes that could be exploited.
To assume the reader is mature, honest, or professional enough to not engage in an action or conduct based on preconceived perceptions of socially accepted notions is not acceptable. People will make honest mistakes, but choose a dishonest response to justify it.
It seems odd, but it is true at times.
In our documents we attempt to "cover all bases" my making the instruction or information "idiot proof".

Proper communication is not a given, a person needs more than a command of the language. There is a skill and at times an art to communicating with out doubt or loss of the message.

And yes, the truck looks great in satin ;o)

(if you read enough of my ramblings you will that I break grammer and syntax rules all the time because I just think it is fun to do so. However I do not usually lose context, as that is always important)

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

Well stated!

Funny I’ve only ever known two men having served near the North Pole. Back in the late 70’s I had a boss that was ex Air Force. At the time of his active duty “incident” he was assigned to the staff of a General. I don’t remember where he was stationed, but he loved the place and expected to serve out his enlistment at that location.

He also had significant conflict with the First Sergeant, to whom he was subordinate. For over a year they scuffled, and every time he skated through claiming privilege of the General. One day he unexpectedly received transfer orders to Fairbanks Alaska. He ran to the General expecting him to intercede over loyalty and principle. The General merely stated “Well, everybody knows you can’t mess with the First Shirt”! In one of the most significant learning experiences of his life, he spent the rest of his career freezing his a$$ off reflecting on what he might have done differently!

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

So as I’m wandering around thinking about what to tackle next it started bothering me that the truck leaned noticeably to the driver side (like an inch). Earlier I had jacked it up and placed the frame on stands and measured everything. The frame measured out square and level, and the trailing arms weren’t bent. I had replaced the rear springs twice (and changed them side for side another time). New front springs had been installed with the 1975 crossmember swap and yet it still sat crooked. I even measured the bed and body to make sure it wasn’t an issue with the mounts. I kept checking until it was determined the front spring on the driver side was sagging about an inch more than the passenger side. They were only about 10 years old but the one side just gave up faster than the other.

I didn’t even bother pricing out new springs because I just wasn’t physically up to changing them at the time.

So I started considering possible alternatives. Looking back to my high school days, spring spacers were very popular with guys in my budget range and age bracket.

They instantly transformed your average teen kid car into am impressive high dollar gasser with just some minor effort (smashed, pinched and bruised fingers mostly). The intent was to force the coil springs to stay separated, lengthening the spring and sticking the nose in the air. It was worth the injuries, knowing that soon all the girls around would be overwhelmed with ecstatic joy at the mere sight of my super fast gasser style car!

Of course to adults the result probably just looked stupid, and strangely I don't remember the girls being all that impressed either. :lol:

The Unofficial History of Spring Spacers

There were several types available in the early 60’s. Here are some examples, starting with what was most commonly available where I lived:

The block or wedge type. This is the only example I have left. My son found it in a wrecking yard and polished it up for me as a souvenir:

http://img252.imageshack.us/img252/9...ringspacer.jpg

The spring was forced open with a crow bar and tire iron, and the spacer gently tapped in place with a hammer. Well not exactly. Needing 3 hands and having only 2 turned out to be an inconvenience. Once the spring was spread as much as practical, the spacers were nearly beaten to death almost knocking the car off the jack stands trying to get them in place. In theory they could be inserted either horizontally or vertically, and spring pressure would hold them in either position. 1954 Chevy spring coils were very close together, and the spacers would only fit horizontally.

An improved model soon came along, the twist-in style. Early models spread the coils maybe an inch. Later models were considerably bigger.

http://img688.imageshack.us/img688/5...acetwistin.jpg

Installation required only the simple twist of a wrench. Well, again maybe not quite that easy. If you had a crow bar and tire iron to spread the coils, a couple of socket extensions, a breaker bar with a cheater pipe along with 3 hands to manage all the tools, they twisted right in place.

Other designs I never found locally can be seen in the 1962 J.C. Whitney catalog. At the time I really wished I could find this installation tool. It seemed a lot more convenient than all the pry bars:

http://img714.imageshack.us/img714/5...gspacer004.jpg

This type just seemed ridiculous. All I could envision was the thing collapsing or breaking and shooting fragments in your face while you were trying to put it in:

http://img546.imageshack.us/img546/9...gspacer003.jpg

This looked to be the most impossible to install (at least on my car):

http://img28.imageshack.us/img28/899...gspacer002.jpg

And these seemed just plain goofy. With no way to spread the spring that far, no surface area to grip the spring adequately, and extending them causing probably breakage or separation…:

http://img850.imageshack.us/img850/9...gspacer001.jpg

These seemed like they might actually work – for a while, at least until the bolt loosened up and vibration caused it to fall out.

http://img804.imageshack.us/img804/7...gspacer006.jpg

In my experience, none of them worked. Even with the limited travel of driving back and forth to school, within a week or so when the car hit a bump one or more popped out. The car leaned over until more could be added or others removed to balance things up again.

But all this reminiscing started me thinking along a more modern version of the same concept – spring rubbers, like those used in race cars to alter the spring rate.

So I ordered up a 1” Afco AFC20186 spring rubber. Here’s what it looks like. Since it has deep grooves on both top and bottom surfaces, and goes all the way around the spring, it doesn’t pop out.

http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/412...pringrubbe.jpg

Here’s the passenger side of my front suspension, obviously without the spacer.

http://img545.imageshack.us/img545/2787/003duj.jpg

And here’s the driver side with the spacer fitted:

http://img833.imageshack.us/img833/3238/002aqj.jpg

In truth it wasn’t much easier to install than the aluminum versions in high school, except this time I used plenty of lubricant, disconnected the upper shock bracket, and removed the upper bumper for more suspension travel. Beyond those improvements it was still a matter of manhandling the spring like a teenager enough to insert the rubber. The project was worth the effort however. It may not be pretty, and I can’t say I’ve noticed any girls being impressed by the addition, but the truck now sits dead level, and once again corners and rides like it has a brand new matched set of springs.

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

I remember when i started racing in the early 80's we used spring spacers rubbers etc and it was thought to be mickey mouse .. now they do it and it is high tech science...

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

I don’t remember what inspired the next project, but it turned out to be improving the headlight wiring with relays. After reading a large number of nicely done threads on the topic, I found myself still lacking details of which wire went to which relay terminal. And many of the schematics were for completely different vehicles. So I printed out everything I could find and started filling in the gaps with the all the overlapping information. Ultimately I drew up a simple relay diagram primarily for my own clarity and convenience. After the work was completed on the truck and functioned correctly, the information was posted on the following link to hopefully save someone else starting from scratch:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=387693

During all this it never occurred to me I didn’t include any photos of the relay installation. So here they are exposed and covered. I also edited them into the thread above. The small relay nearest the radiator is for the fog lamps. The other two are for the low and high beam circuits.

http://img840.imageshack.us/img840/7389/a01v.jpg

http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/50/a02qz.jpg
The location hides everything, is easily accessible, and offers good weather protection. The headlight relays are mounted on an ABS panel for ease of attaching or removing the connectors.

Looking back through photos a reproduction Sunpro Tach head update became the next project. Much earlier I had installed an Autometer/Moon tach head in a Sun cup as shown in posts #38 & 47. I talked myself into being happy with it. It looked okay, was very accurate, easy to read, and had the Moon eyes printed on the face, which I thought was cool. Other than the eyes and different markings on the face, it was a standard Autometer tach. Subsequently Moon dropped Autometer and aligned with Classic Instruments. It turns out the Moon tach I had is now somewhat rare. Mine stayed in the family, one of my sons is going to put it in his 1960 Galaxie eventually.

Soon after attending a local Goodguys show, the Goodguys Gazette showed up. Inside I discovered a new advertisement for the Sunpro FZ88R retro tach.

http://img252.imageshack.us/img252/2...ntachad002.jpg

The advertising hype is mostly bogus. It isn’t the same tach as the original. It doesn’t work the same, it doesn’t look the same, and the original company Sun Electric Corporation isn’t producing it. In spite of these drawbacks, I thought it might be worth trying - primarily because years or searching for an original FZ88 Sun tach, established that I would never be able to afford one.

Whereas the Moon/Autometer took some engineering and brackets to fit in the case, the new FZ88R head bolts into an original cup perfectly, because the new retro cups are dimensionally identical to the originals.

The one screwed to my dash however is the longer version of the same cup (which I prefer). No problem. At the time I had a trashed original FZ88 for parts. I pulled the extension spacers from the original and screwed them to the back of the mounting posts on the new head, and if fit perfectly in the long cup. For purely cosmetic reasons I also pulled the Bakelite zero adjuster off the original FZ88 and attached it to the face of the new FZ88R. Excuse the poor quality photo. Around the time this was taken I had a hard drive crash and lost 6 months worth of progress photos that weren't backed up properly:

http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/5969/tachk.jpg

Although I would still have preferred an original 1960’s version because the face looks better, the FZ88R has proven to be an adequate substitute. It works well, and with nothing nearby for close up comparison most people assume it’s an original. Unless the money tree starts blooming in the backyard it will remain a permanent feature.

I put together a thread on the topic to share both the installation and as much as I can remember about the popularity and timeline of vintage Sun Tachometers:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=392461

With progress on all these trinkets I believe it was another forum member’s truck that sparked me into thinking about spotlights again. I grew up with dual Unity spotlights on my parents 1948 Oldsmobile, and have had them on a variety of cars over the years. Once I discovered that custom mounting brackets for the 60-63 cab existed, a frenzied search ensued. Over the course of several months I was very fortunate to obtain the rare inside and outside brackets for both sides of the truck.

Here are shots showing the outside and inside:

http://img836.imageshack.us/img836/6783/lh01.jpg

http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/9538/lh02.jpg

And the truck with both installed:

http://img638.imageshack.us/img638/7594/800x600p.jpg

Many more details of the installation and information on how to repair these lamps can be found on these threads:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=401449

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=403869

More to follow.

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

Since I’m a fan of Unity products, I scored a set of NOS Unity Back Up Lights at least five years before they ended up on the truck. Here are a couple of photos showing some of the details:

http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/6886/unitybackup.jpg

I honestly don’t remember the source of this photo. I probably took it myself when I was planning to sell the lamps, but it could be the Ebay photo of the kit I acquired. Either way it exactly matches what I purchased, down to the two different types of wire, and broken paper templates (hardened from age). The larger wire coil is a waxy impregnated cloth, while the jumper wire to go between the lamps is vinyl. Although all of the wire was as new, during installation I replaced all of it with newer fire resistant wire. It didn’t seem prudent to use stuff that was approximately 60 years old.

And here’s a close up of one rim showing the marking found on all model “C” lamps:

Pardon the stuff in the photo being dirty. It was just rained on and I mounted the information upside down to keep the top nicer looking.

http://img857.imageshack.us/img857/4071/post01.jpg

The stamping says - UNITY CHGO (Chicago) MODEL “C”

Every year or so I would bring them out in the garage, hold them up in various positions on the truck, then put them back in the original box for another year. I just couldn’t find anywhere they would fit and look right. For no reason I can think of the idea of putting them next to the license plate popped in my head, so out they came again for another check.

Here’s what the back end looked like without the lamps:

http://img638.imageshack.us/img638/9310/tankhn.jpg

Here they are clamped to a pair of hardware store L brackets:

http://img248.imageshack.us/img248/9873/bu01n.jpg

A close up of same shot

http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/1489/bu02.jpg

Pleased with the general appearance, I started working on a sheet metal pan to both permanently mount them, and conceal the wiring.

I had a piece of sheet metal left over that was purchased to repair the lower doors. This shows it trimmed to shape and drilled:

http://img809.imageshack.us/img809/3939/03ablank.jpg

This shows the orientation of the lamps:

http://img40.imageshack.us/img40/658...ampsfitted.jpg

A local sheet metal shop formed it on their brake:

http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/9...d04formeda.jpg

I had a painted and assembled photo showing all the wiring, but it was lost in the hard drive crash.

Here’s the first photo of the assembly attached to the truck:

http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/7995/55471803.jpg

I painted the pan with Blitz Black out of a spray can, and obviously the sheen didn’t come out matching the rest of the truck. At the time I wasn’t enthusiastic enough to reshoot it with spray equipment so it went on as is.

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

Finishing up the back up light project, here are a few more photos.

The finished installation late in the afternoon:

http://img842.imageshack.us/img842/5302/23584284.jpg

This was taken with an aperture controlled long exposure:

http://img827.imageshack.us/img827/1427/23601417.jpg

At night, illuminated with nothing but the parking lights and license plate light:

http://img685.imageshack.us/img685/7498/40878220.jpg

And this is what the lamps offer:

http://img51.imageshack.us/img51/6796/73011408.jpg

They seem ridiculously bright, but are just normal 1156 bulbs. It must be the design of the reflectors and glass lenses that adds to the effectiveness.

At first I wired them up to a switch on the dash, with a yellow indicator light so I would remember they were on. Many decades ago I used this arrangement on a different car and found it to be a convenient if not so polite way to instruct tailgaters to “back up”. Being suddenly blinded there really was no choice but to get off my bumper. I also found it dangerous and stupid.

Being somewhat older and wiser that wasn’t my intent this time. It was just easy to hook up. I soon discovered the indicator wasn’t visible enough and I routinely forgot to turn them off. So I stopped using them until I could connect a transmission operated switch.

And typical of hot rod stuff, even that wasn’t easy. The Hurst universal bracket positioned the switch completely beyond the reverse lever. Once the bracket was shortened and redrilled, everything lined up and worked fine.

One last footnote. The outboard bulbs in this photo were original to the lamps. Being 6 volts they are pretty much useless, but are probably the coolest looking automotive bulbs I’ve ever seen:

http://img651.imageshack.us/img651/297/06bulb01.jpg

More to follow.

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

I was just thinking about where to put my backup lights on my 65. I don't want to put them in the fenders like a 66. And I don't want them anywhere near the fenders, because I don't want to detract from my fleetside tailights. Where you have them is perfect.

Obviously, I need to get my bumper flipped back to right side up.
Posted via Mobile Device

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

I started collecting photos of trucks with sneaker plugs, like this example:

http://img600.imageshack.us/img600/9862/62940188.jpg

I picked up a couple of lengths of matching exhaust tubing to experiment with different attachment angles. I never finalized a design because I couldn’t decide if they looked better behind the tire or under the fender, or whether to use 2 or 3 bolt caps. The project got side tracked, but is still likely to happen some day because it’s reasonably inexpensive. Originally I wanted hidden electric exhaust cut outs, but they are no longer in the budget.

Another ongoing annoyance was the battery hold down bracket. When purchased many years ago it was coated with a rubberized red covering which soon blistered off. Over the years it was repainted with everything from POR-15 to Zero Rust. No matter what it was coated with, it looked like this within weeks:

http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/6844/82079445.jpg

I finally solved the problem with a plastic bracket made for boats. It came as a kit with a tray, plastic bolts, and the bracket. The bracket was the only usable part for my installation. A year and a half later it still looks like this. The corrosion monster was finally defeated!

http://img850.imageshack.us/img850/6886/44016336.jpg

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

The next order of business was proper headlight aiming. For decades I had just lined up on the garage door and dialed them in. Unfortunately our driveway and garage floor slope to one side, making it difficult to get them set accurately. I started shopping Ebay for a professional alignment kit, and scored one for very little money. I was lucky. As promised it was in excellent condition and nothing was broken or missing.

One nice feature is that the adapters are initially set up to compensate for the crooked floor. After that it’s a matter of sticking the alignment tools to a pair of headlamps, and lining them up optically. It was rather confusing at first, but once figured out correct alignment was simple. The embedded captions tell the story. After I install the mint condition grille, the process will need to be repeated. After that I’ll probably rarely use the set again, but it’s certainly is a nice to have tool.

http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/773/001zrf.jpg

http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/7356/002dzi.jpg

http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/6905/003soix.jpg

http://img845.imageshack.us/img845/4970/004zrs.jpg

http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/6356/005knn.jpg

http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/4300/006wju.jpg

http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/677/007ri.jpg

http://img851.imageshack.us/img851/2581/008ra.jpg

http://img804.imageshack.us/img804/9081/009tq.jpg

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

After several years of running the 15x5 TTO front wheels, I wanted to swap to a matching set of 15x7 mags on all 4 corners. In my opinion the 15x8.5 American mags produced in the 1960’s were the most beautiful wheels ever created by man. The 15x6 version wasn’t far behind. Of the TTO sizes currently offered the 15x7’s looks the most like the originals, especially with the 5x5 bolt pattern.

Being married to a wonderful wife, another pair of 15x7’s showed up for Christmas. They were quickly degreased and shot in gloss black. I used the same Martin Senour 7239 Tecnique Gloss Black used on the rear wheels. It’s available from Napa Auto and is very durable retaining both the high gloss and deep black color:

http://img826.imageshack.us/img826/8245/postj.jpg

To me they just look more impressive than the 15x5’s. Here’s somewhat of a before and after comparison between the 5” rims and the 7” rims. Both are wearing the same 215.70.15 Radial T/A’s.

http://img716.imageshack.us/img716/7893/57982524.jpg

http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/204/59740288.jpg

And finally I couldn’t wait, so it was backed out in the snow on a 17 degree day when all the snow froze in the trees. It was a spectacular day, but the severe contrast didn’t help take a decent photo:

http://img542.imageshack.us/img542/5549/25974109.jpg

So then I got the bug to retro-upgrade my Unity fog lamps to have the early topknot emblems instead of the flat/boring patch on top. It was a pretty simple upgrade as shown in the photo sequence below. The inner flange of the emblem rivets were lightly trimmed with a drill bit and the rivets knocked out with a spring punch. The holes were filled with silicone and the emblem attached with a screw as they were on original lamps with these emblems. I don’t think they’re much doubt they have a much richer appearance, for anyone that cares about this sort of stuff:

http://img844.imageshack.us/img844/6578/post00.jpg

http://img849.imageshack.us/img849/2707/post01z.jpg

http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/7445/post02.jpg

http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/7816/post03.jpg

http://img638.imageshack.us/img638/3743/post04.jpg

http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/3087/post05.jpg

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

All these years gone by, and you are just now getting all this posted.
It'll benefit many.
It has me.
Thank you.

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

Yep, the difficulty has been that I had almost 20 years of photos collected before I started the thread. I was stuck for a long time trying to get things in chronological order before submitting the first post. I finally gave up and just started near the beginning and hopefully will find forgiveness for all the details that show up out of sequence.

Thank you for having interest!

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

In order to provide more convenient access to the emblem screws (required for bulb changes) I decided to move the lamps forward on the bumper. Fitting factory cast brackets didn’t place the lamps where I wanted them, so I fabricated my own from steel plate. Rather than appearing to hide behind the bumper guards, they now looked impressive sticking out in their new forward location. Here are a couple of before and after comparisons:

http://img703.imageshack.us/img703/2971/0001dtk.jpg

http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/1730/0002ydl.jpg

http://img857.imageshack.us/img857/4209/0003en.jpg

http://img805.imageshack.us/img805/9099/0004vk.jpg

This led to another inadvertent design improvement. Because the new brackets are even stronger than the bumper, I was able to eliminate the adjuster balls on the bottom of the lamps. The brackets were individually adjusted until the lamp mounting bases were perfectly level. Now the lamps are bolted solidly to the brackets and require no vertical alignment. Left/right alignment is easily accomplished by placing a level across the bare housings before the bulb and bezels assemblies are installed. It’s both simple and rugged and results in a perfectly aligned light pattern.

In the spring I finally got a chance to take a couple of pictures of the truck with its new wheels and fog lamp improvements:

http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/8070/post003c.jpg

http://img28.imageshack.us/img28/8207/post004.jpg

And the first phase of the final engine compartment project was initiated with removal of the majority of the inner fender panels:

http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/4530/post02y.jpg

http://img708.imageshack.us/img708/7816/post03.jpg

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

no inner fenders... hmn, Mark is going full gasser drag truck next!!!

:devil:

-W

p.s. thanks for sharing all of this stuff, especially the rear back up lights, I love that setup.

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

You’re very perceptive! That’s actually where the plan was headed for the last 10 years before retirement. It would have been a street rod version, way too heavy to actually race because I still wanted to keep all the doodads and didn't want to back half the truck. But it would have been finished with components common to that build style. A BDS scoop was intended to poke through the hood on top of a pair of carbs, preferably sitting on a 6-71 supercharger but more likely on a tunnel ram due to cost.

With my poor photoshop skills this was the best image I could create to demonstrate the vision:

http://img855.imageshack.us/img855/1305/scooptest.jpg

And fenderwell headers something like these (shared by another forum member) were a must have:

http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/2669/11890673.jpg

http://img824.imageshack.us/img824/4493/57486255.jpg

For rod runs and graffiti night the final touches were going to be a pair of Radir pie edge slicks on these Buick wheels, with skinny Firestones up front mounted on the vintage Dragmaster mags shown in the photo:

http://img828.imageshack.us/img828/5576/buickwheels.jpg

Removal of the front bumper and various methods of installing a Moon tank up front were also tossed around, but nothing was decided on.

Even after retirement I went ahead getting the engine compartment ready for the fenderwell headers. Who knows, my rich uncle could still get out of the poor house, I could win the lottery, or Publishers Clearing House could show up at my door. If one of these unlikely events happen at least I’ll be ready to get back on schedule!

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

Following up with more details of the inner fender removal, the ultimate goal was clearance for fenderwell headers. The more immediate need was cutting out rust before it spread any further. And a third objective was simply ease of maintenance such as greasing the front end. I’m 63 and retain the same automotive enthusiasm I had as a teenager. Unfortunately with missing spinal discs and bad knees the carcass doesn’t always cooperate, so anything that makes working on the truck easier is welcome

Since I don’t weld, and couldn’t find any better examples of used inner fenders locally for a budget price, I decided to cut out everything I didn’t want, and repair the remaining rust damage as usual with JB Weld. For those that may have missed it, I’ve used JB Weld on just about everything imaginable as detailed in this thread:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...p+hole+filling

Here’s what the forward end of both panels looked like before starting the project. As can be seen rust was blistering from the outer panel, over the top and down toward the frame on both sides. Fortunately it was all contained on the inner fenders. Here’s the passenger side:

http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/2866/001ajbid.jpg

http://img824.imageshack.us/img824/8890/001bsn.jpg

And the driver side:

http://img815.imageshack.us/img815/3567/001cjh.jpg

http://img692.imageshack.us/img692/4326/001dbe.jpg

Had I realized years earlier this would be caused by the open bracket underneath collecting and packing up with road debris I would have simply sealed all the openings from the bottom and avoided all this rust to begin with.

But a little late for preventative measures at this point, so the slicing was started. Cutting the rear edge free without damaging the firewall was very difficult. It would have been much easier with the panels out of the truck, but I didn’t want to extend the project with more disassembly:

Here’s the last shot before cutting began:

http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/3465/001rsa.jpg

First the passenger side was removed, followed by the driver side:

http://img714.imageshack.us/img714/9238/002lv.jpg

http://img828.imageshack.us/img828/725/003upu.jpg

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

I wanted smooth edges covering all the rough sheet metal cuts, so aluminum angle was fitted the length of the inner panel cut line and attached with button head Allen screws. They were deliberately fitted in two pieces and with a bend in the middle to avoid being driven through the firewall into the occupants in the event of a crash.

http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/4725/001ilv.jpg

http://img844.imageshack.us/img844/3540/002iik.jpg

Rather than spending time finishing the repairs with body filler and labor, steel plates were fabricated to cover the repaired ledge portion between the hood springs and radiator support.

http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/4296/b010009.jpg

http://img844.imageshack.us/img844/9340/b010010.jpg

Once satisfied with the fit of all the plates and angles they were removed. The rusted areas over the reinforcement brackets were cut out, ground clean, acid washed, dams formed from steel brackets and duct tape, then filled with JB Weld. The gap in the angled portion was then filled with JB Kwik because it sets in 3 minutes (no picture).

http://img813.imageshack.us/img813/9876/a01x.jpg

http://img804.imageshack.us/img804/2657/a02i.jpg

At this point all the new aluminum and steel parts were sanded down and brush painted with epoxy primer. The aluminum angles were bolted on and the steel plates were epoxied to the inner fenders with large C clamps over a generous bed of JB Weld.

http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/7581/dsc0013gk.jpg

Before completing the engine compartment, two events occurred that convinced me to reinstall the Gaylord bed cover that had been leaning against the garage wall for the last two years. First, one of our dump loads managed to knock a dent in the back of the cab just above the front bed panel. Second, my brother in law sold us their old box trailer made out of the back half of an old Ford Courier, so I didn’t need to abuse the GMC any longer.

Because I had already installed the stainless bed rails, I first thought about buying a soft cover that fit between bed rails. But since I already had the hard cover, and considering how ridiculously expensive they’ve become it seemed more prudent to reinstall the one I already had. Problem being I didn’t want to give up the bed rails. So after careful study, and against the advice of Gaylord, I decided to mount them on the hard cover purely for cosmetics.

I couldn’t use screws from the top because they would collide with the top of the bed sides. So I trimmed the cover seal underneath to accommodate stainless screws and fender washers from underneath pointing up. These were topped with chrome plated acorn nuts. I actually think they make a nice feature and look better than the original screws:

http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/3716/post502.jpg

http://img192.imageshack.us/img192/8131/post501.jpg

These were the first pictures taken after the cover and rails were reinstalled:

http://img840.imageshack.us/img840/4653/post01u.jpg

http://img40.imageshack.us/img40/3594/post003s.jpg

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

With the bed cover in place it was right back to the engine compartment project. The final phase was getting all the prep done for an application of Raptor bedliner. With all the degreasing, sanding, grinding, filling, priming, and more sanding and more cleaning, this part of the project turned out to be every bit as much work as painting the whole truck.

First the hood, hinges, and springs were pulled:

http://img534.imageshack.us/img534/7816/post03.jpg

A rented power washer blew off all the dirt and half the poorly prepped paint back to the original yellow on much of the outer firewall:

http://img684.imageshack.us/img684/3042/post02e.jpg

http://img839.imageshack.us/img839/3901/post99.jpg

http://img835.imageshack.us/img835/5928/post03s.jpg

And this is just a shot of the truck with the hood off, showing how much light makes it to the pavement now:

http://img542.imageshack.us/img542/3743/post04.jpg

All of the removable panels were pulled for individual attention and fabrication of new gaskets:

http://img202.imageshack.us/img202/8892/post01b.jpg

And a new hard line was formed for the clutch connection:

http://img855.imageshack.us/img855/3743/post04.jpg

To replace this crappy looking version:

http://img192.imageshack.us/img192/7884/post02k.jpg

The new line in place:

http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/961/post001.jpg

Not looking much different, this is after hours of sanding the heater panel openings, yellow portions of the firewall, and fender panels next to where the hood springs mount:

http://img842.imageshack.us/img842/3901/post99.jpg

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

My squeeze finishing up all the miserable prep I couldn’t reach:

http://img594.imageshack.us/img594/4755/20835236.jpg

http://img854.imageshack.us/img854/601/83210272.jpg

Here we are at final prep, ready to shoot the next morning:

http://img36.imageshack.us/img36/4349/91100678.jpg

http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/8302/32270866.jpg

Here are a few shots of the Raptor after most of the stuff was put back together:

http://img607.imageshack.us/img607/5551/000nl.jpg

http://img710.imageshack.us/img710/2384/002zue.jpg

http://img857.imageshack.us/img857/6843/66593354.jpg

http://img818.imageshack.us/img818/9579/hingesf.jpg

http://img593.imageshack.us/img593/7398/a05a.jpg

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

Here’s a simple method I came up with to reinstall the springs without scratching the paint. The first thing needed is a solid anchor to pull against. My “clean bench” is bolted to the wall studs on two levels, and the bench is assembled with bolts, so I knew it was up to the task.

I clamped a piece of steel tubing to the spring support projecting forward a few feet in front of the truck to assist in lining the truck up with the bench leg (sorry no picture). I parked the truck aiming the tubing just inboard of the bench leg, so the spring would not be dragged against the anchor support on the fender panel.

I hooked the spring to the hinge arm, and used an industrial S hook on the other end to provide more flexibility to the ratchet strap hook. The ratchet strap pulled the spring into position, and a squeeze clamp was used to press it into the slot and hold it in position. Since releasing the ratchet tension cannot be controlled, I simply drove the truck forward a couple of inches until the strap relaxed on the inner fender, and that was it.

I also used this technique to remove the springs. And by pre-drilling front and rear alignment holes in the hinge mounting plates, they were reinstalled in exactly the same location using two 1/8” pilot bits. As a result no adjustment is required and there are no scars on the hinges or the mounting bolts.

I’ve also installed the springs by mounting the front bolt and pivoting the hinge into position, but this seemed much easier with no risk of scratching the paint.

http://img809.imageshack.us/img809/8131/a01te.jpg

http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/3850/a02yx.jpg

To put all this in perspective, once again this is what the engine compartment started out looking like:

http://img853.imageshack.us/img853/4096/000lgs.jpg

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

fancy!

-W

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

I thought it might be a good idea to review this thread and see what I may have forgotten, and realized a few things.

1. My photo host site dropped about a half dozen pictures, which I uploaded again and have reinserted where needed.

2. I duplicated some stuff so those entries have been consolidated.

3. Some of the text has been edited for better accuracy or clarity.

The last few projects were all completed late last year. I came to the realization that my heavy Simpson seat belt buckle was beating the crap out of my vintage Covico steering wheel (not that my delicate figure contributed in any way). :lol: So two things were in order, new seat belts and attempted restoration of the wheel. I spent four and a half hours restoring the vinyl rim by hand. After nearly half a century of use it had plenty of nicks, scratches, and gouges.

All the defects were wet sanded out with 400, 600, 1000, and 1500 grit paper. This was followed by 3 polishing steps with Semi-Chrome, and the final finish was brought back to original with 3 additional applications of Mothers Mag Wheel polish. The end result was worth all the elbow grease. It’s hard to photograph a shine, but I’m amazed how nice it turned out.

http://img826.imageshack.us/img826/8493/cw001.jpg

The accessory 3 gauge panel has been seen earlier, but it arrived during this period so I’ll provide more details here. When pulled from the package, it wasn’t anywhere near the tip top shape I had hoped for. Unfortunately my son recently borrowed his buffer back so all the finish work had to be done by hand. So starting with 100 grit on an air file, I started tearing it up in order to get remove the deep scratches and get it back to flat. Final polishing came 3 ½ hours later. Here’s how it looked when first mounted with the VDO gauge in the center. The rims are so small they will fall through the hole if it's cut slightly oversize:

http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/4889/beforewn.jpg

I never appreciated how puny and undersize the rims look on VDO gauges until I mounted the vacuum gauge in the same accessory panel with two Autometer gauges. The new Autometer vacuum gauge was installed a few minutes after it arrived. Both are 2 1/16" but comparing the two, the Autometer version is certainly more impressive (IMHO). The fun part being my wife inspired the upgrade. She insisted after all the work that’s gone into the project the gauges all need to match, so a new 160 mph Autometer speedometer replaced the VDO model as well.

And this for comparison is the full Autometer set:

http://img703.imageshack.us/img703/5999/afteryj.jpg

The modern design gauges in the panel do have internal lighting, but back when these external lighted panels were produced (around 1961-62?), many aftermarket gauges had no lights at all. The gauge housing was a simple solid metal can with two electrical posts sticking out the back, and nothing else. For a very brief period Moon, Dixco, and Eelco made panels for these unlighted gauges with the same dome shaped lights on the front which were suppose to illuminate the face of the gauge. In truth they mostly glared on the glass so you couldn’t see the gauge reading anyway. In any event they aren't needed in my setup, I just always loved the way they looked and spent 10 years looking for this type panel at a price I could afford. The external lights are functional but not connected. I'm not sure if there's any advantage to hooking them up, so for now they remain unwired. Here’s what the panel looks like with the internal lights illuminated:

http://img600.imageshack.us/img600/6687/0009m.jpg

These panels went obsolete very quickly because the next generation of gauges came with plastic lined "translucent” windows around the perimeter of the gauge housing, just behind the rim. A sheet metal piece was attached to the back of the panel allowing a bulb to be plugged in, which sprayed light everywhere. Some of the light spilled into the gauge providing marginally improve illumination.

Soon after, the next generation of gauges had a conventional tube attached to the back allowing a conventional bulb and socket to plug in, providing good lighting for the first time.

While the gauge panel was being buttoned up, the new retractable lap belts showed up. After pretty extensive research I finally found an outfit that still made authentic belts with vintage chrome lift latch buckles, and the correct GM style tapered tongue with the square latch hole.

http://www.cmwauto.com/MainMenu/Inte.../seatbelts.htm

The problem being the buckle would still end up right in the middle, risking more damage to the steering wheel. So I went for the 70’s style with the starburst metal buckles on the side instead. It sure is nice not having the big heavy buckles and belts laying all over the floor. Light was pouring in through the garage door and the back window so the 2nd shot is pretty bleached out, but it shows how they mounted.

http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/5395/001swe.jpg

http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/9122/002mwe.jpg

The 1960 GMC has a cover plate on the driver side over the area where the taillight wiring enters the cab. This required moving the retractor forward to the angled area. The anchor brackets needed a correction to the mounting angle. To avoid bending a curve into the bracket like happens when using a large Crescent wrench, I clamped the bracket in the bench vise and pried it open slightly with a crowbar, just enough to clear the bolt head I used next. Then I attached a heavy steel plate along with a stack of washers and a bushing that just fit inside my cheater pipe. I kept nudging it until the bracket measured straight up as mounted on the truck floor. Here’s the arrangement shown on one of the spare brackets that didn’t need bending:

http://img703.imageshack.us/img703/4858/002jr.jpg

http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/9177/003tzc.jpg

Rather than use the angle brackets on the inboard belts, I used the eye bolts that were in place for the Simpson belts. I just happened to have some serrated flange washers the same outside diameter as the eye bolts, making a simple and secure connection that didn’t require crawling under the truck.

Finishing the belt installation the new Autometer speedometer was installed and calibrated using road markers. Accuracy was double checked against our Honda. Although both gauges are the same size, the face and numbers on the Autometer are much larger and easier to see.

Here’s the last remaining VDO gauge, the old speedo. The only nice feature it offered was thru dial lighting, but it looked washed out and the numbers were too small:

http://img225.imageshack.us/img225/152/003iz.jpg

And here’s the new Autometer:

http://img818.imageshack.us/img818/4971/004fm.jpg

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

Outside Mirrors

I always had a passion for peep mirrors ever since I was a kid, probably because of their rarity and sense of impractical style. In the early 50’s not all that many cars had outside rear view mirrors. And the majority of cars that did have a mirror used the common straight arm accessory type that clamped on the front edge of the door. Very few cars used an overhead mirror, or what is now commonly referred to as a peep mirror. As a car nut kid that cared about this stuff, I probably saw less than half a dozen of both types of peep mirror throughout the 1950’s and 1960’s. The majority of those were the type that clamped on the rain deflector above the vent window found on cars up until about 1954. They looked like this:

http://img651.imageshack.us/img651/2165/peep02.jpg

And here is a rather poor photo of how they mounted:

http://img703.imageshack.us/img703/6272/peep03.jpg

Although aftermarket peep mirrors are now as common as lug nuts, in the period before about the mid 1980’s when they started being reproduced, I only remember seeing two, and unbelievably at the same time in the same place. I was wandering through Mathis Auto Wreckers in San Leandro when I spotted not one, but two of these mirrors. The now common type clamped on top of a door was easy to snag, it came right off. The one on the vent deflector of a late 40’s Chevy coupe put up a real fight, and won. I just couldn’t get it off. I came back a week later with more tools but the car had been crushed. I’ve always been disappointed I couldn’t snag that one too, purely as a collectible.

Here’s the one I did get, mounted on my 1950 Plymouth coupe. And for those that know the difference, yes I swapped over all the fenders, grille, and bumpers to make it look like a 1949:

http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/6664/mirror01d.jpg

It lived on to serve duty on my last 54 Chevy:

http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/9004/mirror02.jpg

And later on my 46 Ford:

http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/7225/mirror03.jpg

When the Ford was sold, I reinstalled the swan neck mirrors and kept the peep. It was mounted on the GMC for several months and worked fine (sorry no picture), but was replaced with a factory door mirror when one presented itself in the junk yard. If the factory hadn’t installed the permanent mounting nuts in the door, I would probably still be using the peep. I actually loved the view out of the mirror back then, because it was so close to my face I got a pretty good picture.

Recently I tried installing it on my 1960 GMC again with the intention of mounting it permanently and pulling the factory door mirrors. Unfortunately I couldn't see doo doo. It was at night, and the mirror I have is an original Yankee with black beveled glass. It's nice for reducing glare, but may not be as user friendly as I remember it being, or maybe my eyes just aren't as young as they once were.

http://img802.imageshack.us/img802/7011/mirror01.jpg

I threw in the towel and accepted I just couldn’t sacrifice the visibility offered by the factory mirrors, so they are going to stay. After spending so much time studying the mirrors, it became obvious they really needed a tune up. I never liked the stainless screws against the black arm, and the flat gaskets were shredded around the edges. The mirror heads were shiny black when purchased back in 1998, and long ago lost their luster

Here’s a shot of the passenger side mirror when the spotlights were installed about a year and a half ago:

http://img847.imageshack.us/img847/712/post01r.jpg

Off the truck, I took the opportunity to polish the back of the mirror heads. It took 6 different grits to remove the many years of oxidation. Here’s a shot of the finished driver side mirror on the right compared to the untouched passenger side.

http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/3743/post04.jpg

And here’s a pic of the old flat passenger side gasket. It wasn’t really offering any protection to the paint, which now has gouges in it. Fortunately the new pad covered all the sins:

http://img546.imageshack.us/img546/7445/post02.jpg

Here’s the new LMC molded mounting pad:

http://img189.imageshack.us/img189/7816/post03.jpg

It’s a very nice part and makes the mirrors look much more finished on the truck. I’d seen them earlier on the Trucks TV show build up. The mounting pads do not disappoint, they are very high quality. I believe LMC is actually the company that produces these. I haven’t seen them available from anyone else. Here’s a link – part numbers 38-5806 and 38-5807:

http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cbe/full.aspx?Page=47

The mounting screws were hit with a stripper disc, coated with acid/etch primer and painted black. Here’s a shot of the finished effort. The picture isn’t all that great, but in real life the mirrors look like they belong now:

http://img692.imageshack.us/img692/3087/post05.jpg

Fyi - I've read where a lot of customers are not very happy with LMC customer service. I’ve only purchased from them twice and both were good experiences. The other item was their clear dome light (36-4205 again available only from LMC). It’s a nice product that puts out about 10 times as much light as the factory lens, and I'm using the stock bulb. Since we actually use the truck at night it’s a nice upgrade:

http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cbe/full.aspx?Page=40

This wraps up the last project completed on the truck. Next up is polishing the newly acquired stainless windshield trim. If all goes well, and assuming I can find a functional windshield gasket, the trim will hopefully be on the truck this summer.

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

Nice work!!!
Posted via Mobile Device

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

Thanks for the welcome to the forum, I think i will change my mind a few times before I get through the information here. Alot of great and different ideas here. I wish I would of found it last july. Enjoy

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

I'm always glad to see new members having enough interest in these trucks to join up. I wish this forum was around when I started my build. There are so many different build styles available to help in selecting your preferences, and a wealth of experience available so everybody doesn't always have to learn the hard way.

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

:agree: almost too much information.
I either run across too many things I want to do to my truck, or I cannot remember where I saw something I decided later on that I liked !!!

Great build Mark, and awesome info on it!

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

The last few days have been spent researching and rereading all the information I could find on installing a 71-72 C10 cable operated throttle pedal on a 60-66, along with ordering various bits and pieces.

Part of me doesn’t want to make the change at all. As a pre-teenager I grew up saturated with hot rod magazines showing Moon pedals in numerous rods and race cars. In my junior year in high school someone brought in a genuine Moon pedal to use as a casting pattern in metal shop. Disappointedly this was a senior class so I had to wait another year to attend. Just about every kid in the class ended up with a replica Moon pedal. Even if they didn’t have a car, they had that pedal as a badge of distinction. Man I wanted one of those things. Unfortunately by my senior year there had been enough burn injuries that things changed and there were no more Moon pedals being cast.

For many years I drove the GMC with the original gas pedal. It finally started looking pretty ratty so I installed an aftermarket replacement. Due to inferior materials, within a month or so the pedal was bent in about ½” in the middle. So it seemed like a good time to go for a Moon pedal.

My son gifted me a used original and it went right in the truck. It was not a good fit. The pedal was too tall and too wide for a truck with a high hump floor. I couldn’t find a decent angle for it. It also had a tall heel cup and shoe traps on both sides. Stepping on the brake pedal brought my shoe down far enough to land on top of the left edge trap, accelerating the engine. Not cool. To make a long story short I kept trimming pieces off the pedal until it looked stupid and was ruined:

http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/7710/moonruined.jpg

I ended up finding an original Cal Custom pedal on Ebay which fit and worked perfectly – almost. I’ve made numerous adjustments and improvement to the pedal including position/angle changes and adding a large block of Delrin to the back. I love the appearance, but I’ve never been able to achieve smooth-as-glass throttle operation. After years of improvements and annoyance, I decided it was time for another change.

As of this morning it still looked like this:

http://img40.imageshack.us/img40/2081/pedal01.jpg

I broke out the wrenches and so far the pedal has been removed along with the firewall pivot and all the linkage up to the carburetor. The carb stud for the cable connection has been installed, and the cruise connection has tentatively been reinstalled.

The nutserts in the floor have been plugged with silicone sealant followed by a pair of 1/4x20 button head Allen screws. Tonight I’ll be drawing up plans for a block off plate for the firewall pivot so my son can machine one up. Not a whole lot to show at this stage so I’ll be posting pictures over the next few days as more parts arrive.

As a side note I also got to enjoy the first time benefit of having removed the inner fenders. Missing 2 spinal discs and having 2 bad knees puts the 1960 pedal pivot from outside the engine compartment out of my reach. Even with the hood on it was relatively easy to climb into the passenger side of the engine compartment, stand on the floor, and reach over the engine to access the firewall. I’ve been modifying the truck to make it easier to work on for a long time, and I’m certainly enjoying it now.

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

More progress today on the gas pedal project. Here’s a photo sequence showing what’s been achieved so far:

This was taken yesterday before anything was taken apart:

http://imageshack.us/a/img152/600/001cg.jpg

Today the pedal assembly showed up:

http://imageshack.us/a/img207/9789/002gru.jpg

The upper chunk was quickly unbolted and the trusty Dremel tool was called on to slice off the attaching bracket, even with the top of the plastic firewall anchor:

http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/4056/003zwd.jpg

After further study I could find no reason to retain the ear on the upper left side, so it was sliced off and the remaining part angled to more closely match the other side:

http://imageshack.us/a/img855/3392/004znf.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img546/1690/005ttg.jpg

Early test fittings indicated the right side of the plastic mount should be ground flat to match the angle of the firewall. This picture is out of sequence because it shows all three mounting bolts, but it’s the only one showing where the plastic mount was modified:

http://img844.imageshack.us/img844/7553/006el.jpg

The complete assembly was test fit numerous times looking for the best fit at the firewall, the most comfortable pedal position, and level alignment. (Some of the pictures appear to lean to the left, but that’s because I didn’t have the camera level). Once the location was established, the upper right hole was marked with a 17/64 transfer punch (the next size up from ¼”). It was a tight slip fit to keep alignment accurate. That hole alone was drilled to ¼”, and the complete pedal assembly reattached to the firewall. This allowed a precise final alignment before marking the other two mounting holes.

With the pedal where it belonged, the top of the bell crank needed to move about ½” to the left. It was clamped in the bench vise at the point indicated by the arrow, and given a gentle nudge with an 18” adjustable wrench:

http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/2977/007yyr.jpg

Bolted back in place, the upper cable hole was marked with a 5/32” transfer punch directly through the cable restraint bushing.

And finally the cable hole was drilled out to ½”.

http://imageshack.us/a/img28/188/008szz.jpg

Tomorrow I’ll get started filing the hole square.

After cleaning up the garage, I headed over to dinner with my machinist son. He whipped up a block off plate the same thickness as the former pivot plate:

http://imageshack.us/a/img515/3226/009qe.jpg

And as a final touch he glass bead blasted the parts to be painted.

http://imageshack.us/a/img84/3774/010ky.jpg

More to follow.

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

This is an awesome detail for this mod Mark, as I will be installing that very same assembly!

Thanks

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

I hope it proves helpful as this seems to be a very popular swap with very little information available outside the 67-72 community.

I’m taking a lunch break at the moment. This morning I scrubbed down the bead blasted parts with wax and grease remover, and shot them with U-Pol Acid/Etch primer. While the primer was drying I used steel wool and WD40 to clean up the retaining pin and spring that hold the pedal to the bell crank. After about 30 minutes dry time under the heat lamps I followed up with 3 coats of Martin Senour 7239 Gloss Black I picked up at Napa Auto. This isn’t a very good picture, but the parts look great in real life. . With the parts cooking under the lamps I got started on squaring up the cable mounting hole in the firewall.

http://img812.imageshack.us/img812/252/a01st.jpg

The help insure the cable hole came out square and level, I started out by making a template/guide. I applied a length of 2” masking tape to one of my wife’s cutting boards. A ½” square was marked and cut out freehand with an Xacto knife.

http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/7456/a02zo.jpg

It was lined up and stuck over the 1/2” hole:

http://img848.imageshack.us/img848/720/a03k.jpg

There was less to remove than I expected, and the corners were filed out quickly. It occurred to me I have a 400 grit stone in my stash, so I checked and sure enough it is exactly ½” square. It was used for a go/no go gauge until it slipped through. Now I have a nice 400 grit polish on the edges of the opening.

http://img684.imageshack.us/img684/3426/a04c.jpg

After lunch I’ll reassemble the pedal assembly and connect the cable. The only hold up now is waiting for the carburetor anchor bracket to arrive. It should be here today or tomorrow.

Back to work!

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

I got my set up off the '85 Sierra that I took the motor out of, so when I do all this I will just be marrying those two back up.
Now that I got the gas pedal area of my floor done, I was kicking around the idea of doing this mod.
I am on the fence about it because the motor is not mounted yet, and I dont want to goof this up on distances by mounting the pedal without having the engine in as a reference.

You have my undivided attention at this moment though !! LOL

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

is that a quarter and nickle stuck to your firewall or an illusion ? or my bad eyesight

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

You're not seeing things, those are in fact coins. Normally these would be covered by a firewall pad or upholstery, but I’ve never gotten that far in the area of the pedals. They are acting as a backing for the JB Weld plugs on many of the firewall holes. Here’s a thread that explains how I use them:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...highlight=weld

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

After vacuuming up the last of the mess the cable was slipped in place and the pedal assembly installed. The cable remained loose until the carb connections were complete to allow for best routing.

Here’s a shot of the finished install from the driver’s seat after everything was connected. The gas pedal is just about centered half way between the brake pedal and the transmission hump. I don’t really want the eye drawn to the shiny silver mounting nuts so I’m going to etch prime and paint them gloss black:

http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/570/002iyi.jpg

Here are before and after shots from the passenger side:

http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/6730/moonek.jpg

http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/2937/001plu.jpg

Compared to the aluminum pedal the never version is certainly unimportant looking, but it does work much better. It’s very smooth, provides a more precise response from the engine than the old setup, and allows a more natural positioning of the foot.

The interior changes from start to finish took longer to write up and take pictures of than it did to perform the actual modifications. Compressed into actual working time it probably took less than a couple of hours to do the whole thing.

The carburetor bracket and the Chevelle disc brake pad showed up at the same time, so I took a quick look to see it I could slip the pad on before moving to the engine. Not a chance. While it looks similar to the 71-72 pad, it is unfortunately about a ¾ scale version. To use it would require cutting at least ¼” off all four sides of the steel support and that’s more work than it’s worth to me. I may still pull the emblem however and install that on the 71-72 brake pedal pad, unless I go with the stainless trim designed for the 71-72 pedals.

http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/2987/pedalpads.jpg

The pad I picked did in fact turn out to be an exact duplicate of the OEM version. The emblem curvature, shine, and printing are perfect. Post #12 on the following link shows the quality of the others I had to choose from:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=516373

I’m going to be adding new 71-72 brake and clutch pedal pads, but I’m not sure about the stainless trim. Opinions are welcome on whether the 71-72 trim would be an improvement or not on all three pedals.

Next up, the engine connections.

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

Hey Mark, I think the stainless trim would be nice to break up all the black down there. The install looks really clean and sharp, just like all the rest of your work.

Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

Your build is proof a truck is never finished, one of my favorite trucks around. About your pedals I like the look of the trim without the disc brake badge, and disc brake badge without the trim. The pedals do look really plain though all black.
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Re: Markeb01 Build Thread
 

Thanks for the comments guys. It’s funny I was teasing my wife the other day about buying another old project truck. Her response – “Why, you can’t finish the one you’ve got”! Zing!

I didn’t have a bracket available to mount the forward end of the throttle cable. I looked through everything Edelbrock had to offer and didn’t find anything that looked suitable. A couple more hours of internet searching turned up this Holley/GM bracket. Holley part number 20-44:

http://img850.imageshack.us/img850/2866/holley2044.jpg

Of course like most street rod parts it couldn’t be installed without modification. My Edelbrock carb is mounted on the 4 outboard mounting studs which wouldn’t work because of the anti-rotation tab over the outboard mounting hole in the bracket. No problem. I pulled the carb expecting to add a second stud into the inboard mounting hole. Imagine my enthusiasm when I got the carb off and realized the Performer RPM manifold I’m running only has the outboard holes!

Here’s the normal Performer intake mounting flange with 8 stud holes:

http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/9898/performer.jpg

And here’s the RPM version I have:

http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/1...rformerrpm.jpg

Back in the house for more another search, and another hour wasted not finding anything better. More time spent trying alternate orientations I ended up back where I started. The final solution was to flatten the anti-rotation tab and drill the outboard hole in the Holley bracket. But I still needed something to keep it from rotating under pressure.

Years ago I installed an Edelbrock bracket kit (350-8036) for my Turbo 350 kick down linkage:

http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/5...ock3508036.jpg

Currently the main bracket is bolted to the intake manifold and the upper left square attachment is used for the cruise control. A simple solution was to add a small plate between the cable bracket and the kick down bracket providing a solid anchor.

Subsequently I discovered Holley part number 20-88 which would have bolted to the outboard stud and saved me at least 2 hours of freezing my ass off in the garage sorting all this out.

http://img849.imageshack.us/img849/2002/holley2088.jpg

As a side note the Holley 20-44 bracket has the worst gold cadmium finish I’ve ever seen. It’s swirly black instead of gold colored. At first I thought it was a customer return with grease all over it, but it was just a horrible plating job. Because I wanted the truck back on the road it got used regardless of the appearance.

Final notes - the standard 1972 350 cable is actually several inches too long for my application requiring a pretty severe corkscrew routing between the firewall and the carburetor. Apparently my engine is closer to the firewall than a stock 71-72 C10. The 4x4 version is shorter, but I don’t know by how much. It might have been a more suitable choice, but OEM versions are claimed to no longer be available.

In order to keep the cable level with the throttle linkage I added an Adel clamp to the kick down bracket which also removed any strain from the factory cable/bracket attaching grommet.

Installing the cable grommet into the square bracket hole was a nightmare. If I ever have to do it again I will modify the bracket first, angling the square entrance slot to more closely resemble the factory GM approach as shown on this Monte Carlo bracket:

http://img837.imageshack.us/img837/7...rlobracket.jpg

Here’s what the engine side looks like all back together:

http://img718.imageshack.us/img718/8608/115bf.jpg

I’ve decided to go ahead and order the 71-72 pedal pads with the stainless trim. As soon as they show up and get installed I’ll post some update photos. The Chevelle pad will get added to the parts collection.