Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

thanks Chief! You Rocka!!!

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

:lol:

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

[QUOTE=Chuck78;3307005]
One was a 5/16" to 1/4" adapter, and the other one was 9/16"-18 to 1/4" I think. This fit my new remanufactured 1967 Chevy/GMC truck 1-1/8" bore drum/drum master cylinder. *5/16" tube x 1/4" tube adapter bushing for master rear line (check your master)
*9/16"-18 thread to 1/4" tube adapter bushing for master front line (check your master)
[End Quote]

Having just done this conversion to power brakes on my 64, using a Cardone
Master Cylinder / Booster combo unit, # 50-3715, for a1967 Chevy truck,
I thought I'd mention that for one of the outlet fittings I used on the master
was an....

Edelmann part #265401 (1/4" x 1/2" -20 thread)

and the other outlet port used

Edelmann 258540,
which is described as....
"Use for adapting a 7/16-24 Inverted port to a 5/16" Domestic fuel line.
Female - 1/2-20 Inverted
Male - 7/16-24 Inverted"

Not sure if there's more "correct" fittings, pressure ratings, etc.,
but this is what O'Reilly gave me that worked.

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Power-bra...65-66-CHROME-/
The system above is what I purchased a few months back as i was piecing together disc conversion as I could afford to. Now thinking of just spliiting lines and keeping drum/drum for a while. Question time, do I need to fit residual valves in the lines near m/c ? I know I,ll need prop valve when I evenyually put discs on front and when that happens would I keep the residual valve connected for rear?
Sorry to enter this thread with these Qs but keeping all break info together may help others.
Cheers Matt

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

Matt -residual valve and prop valve not required for the dual reservoir drum/drum master cylinder setup. Here's a link that may help, based on Chief Rocka's thread here - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=487384 When you go disk/drum, then you can buy a disk/drum (unequal) dual reservoir master cyl and the prop and residual valve. I'm not certain about whether or not you'll need the residual valve in either setup though - I always thought the res valve was only if you had a "low" mounted master cylinder. With a firewall mount, I do not believe it's necessary - but let's get that confirmed by someone on here. But for the drum/drum - you don't need either as long as the master is on the firewall, that much is correct.

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

Residual valve is only needed when master is down low with the brakes to prevent fluid running back to master....Jocko is correct.

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

Thanks guys, that will make life a litle easier.

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

I did extend our push road for one inch.

Thanks for help!

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...12278308_n.jpg

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http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...91999128_n.jpg

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...40037148_n.jpg

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Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

I just finished reading this thread for the the fourth or fifth time. One question i have is, does it make a difference if you split the system front/rear vs front right left rear/ left front,right rear as I believe newer vehicles are?

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

yes it makes a differenence - do NOT do what you just mentioned. Aft port (closest to the firewall) goes to front brakes, forward port (closest to grille) goes to the rear brakes.

I won't swear by it - but I've never, ever heard of any vehicles, new or old, being plumbed the way you just mentioned. But definitely not correct for these trucks.

Excellent safety question, glad you asked! Big safety implications.

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

Thank you for the quick reply

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

JrJc66, Actually a lot of cars do use a diagonally split braking system like you described. It's very common on front engine, front wheel drive cars. They don't have very much weight over the rear wheels so the rear brakes alone often aren't enough to safely stop the car if the front brakes were to fail. With the diagonally split system, at least one of the front brakes will still be working.

At first, it seems like that would be a good idea for a pick-up truck too since they don't have a lot of weight over the rear wheels either when they're not carrying a load. But from what I understand it's not done (or recommended) because the front suspension/wheel design usually has a positive scrub radius that would cause the truck to pull hard to the outside with only one front brake working. Cars with diagonally split braking systems are all designed with a negative scrub radius so they'll pull to a stop straighter (in theory anyway) with only one front brake working.

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

Hey John, you used pre-made lengths of brake line, right? What lengths did you use to do the split?

Thanks!

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

I used 2 premade line from autozone 1 was about 40" the other was about 60".

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

Thanks. I am just need to get two shorter ones, one from the tee that joins the front and back brakes, and the other at the front left to right tee.

I'll go check Autozone and see how much they are there.

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

Na ... I use new stuff, and flare the ends myself to get an exact fit ...

:metal:

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

That's what I originally thought, but then mistook something else that was said. Thanks for the clarification and the awesome write up.
Posted via Mobile Device

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

This thread was sent to me when I asked what I should do first on my 66 longbed c10. I agree, safety first. So I have most of the parts and am going to tackle this hopefully Sunday. My question is, do I have to replace the original single line going to the first T? It seems that I just need to add one to attach to the line going to the rear that I remove from the T on the right hand side. Am I missing something?

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

You're not missing something.
That's how I did mine.

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

Thanks for the help Lost. Appreciate it.

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

So I finally got to doing my swap over today. Took me a good hour of driving around getting more fittings to make it happen. Couldn't find the proper plug for the T so I just eliminated it and used a union. Anyway, I got everything in and bench bled the new master with no problems. I measured the new master and the depth of where the pushrod goes in and it was identical to old one. So I assumed I didn't need to mess with pushrod. I didn't get a chance to bleed the brakes yet but currently have no pedal whatsoever. Is this a bad sign?

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

an unbled system will have no pedal
ron

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

That's what I was hoping to hear. I'll report back once I've bled it all out. Thank you for the response.

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

Chief,
Did you use bed liner on your inner fenders? It looks really nice. Great idea.

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

A big thanks to all the contributors to this thread. I bled everything and it works great! On to the next mission.

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

I did this conversion to a 64 a few years ago and last year to my current 64. I hooked everything up like in the thread mentioned. I never did get the pedal height I like. I have done a little research and in my 1971 Chilton manual under the Camaro/Chevelle section there is a drawing of a "typical" 67-70 master cylinder. It shows the front port to the front wheels and the rear port to the rear wheels. It states- "Since 1967, a dual type master cylinder is used. The front portion of the master cylinder supplies hydraulic pressure for the front wheels. Pressure for the rear wheel brake application is supplied from the rear portion of the master cylinder." I just switched my lines and have more pedal now. I still have to re bleed the lines because I may have gotten some air in while switching the lines. I'm using a 70 truck booster/mc set up.

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

That's what Captainfab has always posted, too.

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

I'll have to try switching mine.
My pedal height isn't what I'd like it to be.

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

What size fittings are needed? I read this thread 3 times, but I must have missed it?

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

different fittings for different places. depends on what size line etc
ron

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

I did this on Friday. Brought my master in to the parts place, sat on the floor for an hour digging through bins to get the fittings perfect without adapters.

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

Just to clarify..
The front of the master cylinder goes to the front brakes and rear to rear brakes?

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

Nope Other way....... The REAR PORT, closest to the PUSHROD is the main, or "primary" chamber.

This port is for the FRONT brakes....

The FRONT PORT, furthest from the PUSHROD is the secondary chamber....supplying the REAR brakes.
Attached Imageshttp://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=796539&stc=1&d=1315233781

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

On later disc brake systems, that is correct. On our drum/drum setup, the front port is for the front wheels.

See post #106

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

3/16" and 1/4" inverted flare....unless your going with 37, then -3/-4

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

Yes, my 65 C10 was 1/4 to the fronts, then 3/16 to the rear from the T. So, I ran 1/4 from the master to the fronts, and 3/16 all the way to the back

Can't wait to drive it again! I'm doing a bathroom reno, and I need my truck!

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

Here we go. This should settle it once and for all. For DRUM/DRUM applications, using a dual master (like the 67 C10/Impala unit), the FRONT port goes to the FRONT brakes.

http://www.camaros.org/images/metbr/met_J52master.jpg

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

I am confused about the push rod issue. I have a 65 C10 with the original MC.

Is there something I have to do with the push rod? I am confused.

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

If you do not add a power booster you should not need to do anything with the push rod. I changed my single to a dual, no booster, and it bolted right up and used the original push rod.

Re: HOW TO: Split the brake lines (many have asked)
 

Oh ok thanks, that's what I plan to do this weekend. Just wanted to make sure before I start therjob.