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While @ the steel yard, I also picked up some 4.5" OD steel pipe needed to complete some new rear bag mounting 'hats'.
The rear suspension was originally set up w/OE truck arms & shop built 2" lowering blocks which put the bag @ the exact installed height needed. I've since swapped some Porterbuilt 3" drop TA's which altered my height requirements. My c-notch is the limiting factor on ride height so even w/the 3" dropped TA's vs. the OE TA's w/2" block, I don't get any more drop. The PB TA's do allow me to use the 'hats' for mounting the bag which means no drilling a bunch of holes in the frame. I can also adjust the exact height of the hat so the bag travel & compression is optimal (which I did ;) ). Instead of the upper stud being centered in the mounting plate/hat, it will be off-set which allows me to use the existing OE coil-spring mounting holes even though the rear is not @ the OE dimensions. In the last pic, the OE upper hole location is just inside of the leading edge of the round tube.... |
Re: Project: Recycle
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I've still been searching for a smooth, flat, square fuel-fill 'door' but haven't been able to hit the local wrecking yards. I've been walking through my local parking lots documenting vehicle types that might be possible donors.
If I can't find what I want, I went ahead & sourced the part needed for 'Plan-B'. It's stainless steel, 1.5" OD fill tube (1.25" ID), & relatively small. I've seen them used & like their simplicity but I'll need to do something to eliminate the 'shiny' appearance. The last pic is an example of a similar set-up installed.... |
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Nice progress Scoti.....
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Scoti - I thought that the Porterbuilt TA's moved the center line of the rear axle back that 1.5"? or am I missing something?? What about just moving the cross member back the required 1.5"? On another note, can you get a measurement for me? I no longer have a stock rear end houseing. I need to know how far part the mounting pads on the axle are? A measurement from the center of the rear hole (for the u-bolt) to the center of the other rear hole and the same for the front holes would be helpful. Thanks in advance. |
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As for moving the c.member back, that's one method among several options. I figured by using the alum spacers, I can fine tune the exact dimension I want vs. drilling more holes & limiting the placement options (what if I need more/less that I thought??). I'll try & get you those housing pad dimensions tonight. |
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:metal: Great score on the material! :metal:
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I worked late but managed to source the necessary hardware for completing the truck-arm spacers. Maybe tomorrow I'll get some 'quality time' @ the shop & finish welding the rear bag hats (and take a couple measurements ;) )....
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Chip . . .... chip.... chip. A little here, a little there; progress is progress.
I finished up the rear bag 'hats' (well.... almost). I still need to add a stud that will align w/the top OE frame hole for the spring (it will be offset to accomodate the set-back on the rear end). I didn't have long enough bolts so I'll source them & get these wrapped up by this weekend. The set-back worked out just right as the 'hat' just nudges the rear OE rivets that retain the reinforcement plate for the springs. Installed (ride) height for the bags is 6-6.5". When dumped, they should hit the internal bump-stop @ the same time the axle tube bottoms out on the frame c-notch.... |
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Nice work Scoti!
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Looks good, another scratch on the list.
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nicely done!!!
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Thanks guys!
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HOLY SH-T WHAT A NICE JOB!!! this is going to be a badd a$$ , i love the fact how clean you work and how precise you fab stuff is, the quality of your work is killer nice job kat!!
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Just found this and subscribed. Love the upper shock mounts and exhaust route path Scoti. I went with 1" longer PB arms and figure the adjustable del spheres will give me enough room to play with fore/aft. Might have to use the spacers on my 64 though. BTW, I'm in Austin next week. Might have no choice but to check this baddog out :)
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Good job it is really looking good.
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Dang Scot! You have been moving along at a decent pace. You never mentioned this last time we talked.
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Subscribed. :)
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Damn nice work scoti....
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I got a little time in tonight but nothing worth pics.
To recap, I've been considering two choices for my fuel-fill change since my original 'easy-fill' option wouldn't work. Last Friday, I picked up a nice, flat, rectangular, flip open gas door. Option #1 is flush mounting a stainless filler in the floor. Option #2 is the bed (floor) mounted gas door w/the filler just below the floor. Option #1 is more than likely the route I'll take but I needed to visualize the size, placement, & complexity of each to make the final decision.... |
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It may be more work, but I like option #2...:)
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I prefer option 2 as well. It's all up to you as to which you like best. All we can do is give our .02. ;) If your leanin' towards option 1 then run with it. They are both nice options.:chevy:
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A little bit of time on the floor yielded a rough idea of how the flush mount set-up will look. I used what was readily available to mimic the 45° slope on the floor runners but widen out near the C/L of the cap. The steel is cut & just taped in place for observation. I fogged it w/some satin blk to get a better idea of how it flows w/the bed runner that runs the length of the floor.... |
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looking good, we did the '67 similar to that. I liked the option #2 as well, but didnt find a fuel door at the local JY quick enough, and just took the easy way out....
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Boy, I missed something...I had to go back and skim through this whole thing to find out why your doing this for the filler neck. I found where you strugled with the piping from your original location in the corner. I thought that location was great. A buddy of mine did one in the corner on a '71 model that turned out nice, but I never looked at the piping or tank type.
I like how this centered location looks with the small filler. I think that getting anodized in a satin black if you use a spay in liner would make it almost disapear. Not to bug you too much, but did you have a chance to get those measurements of the axle perches? |
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Well, it turned out ok. I'm not 100% pleased but I think it will suffice for this build. Keeping the corners aligned & symmetrical was much harder than anticipated. I also got the first fuel fill hole I cut out patched up while I was cutting, welding, & grinding....
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It came out nice!!!
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Looks good on the fill hole. Are you going to do a spray in bed liner or paint? I think that the liner would hide whatever you do not like...I don't see anything wrong in the pics.
Thanks for the measurements on the rear end. |
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Wow I'm digging your attention to detail on things.
Subscribed of course. ;) |
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I hate I wasn't able to check this one out yesterday. Maybe next time.
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Scoti,...
I planned on just cutting a round hole and shoving my "homemade" adapter up thru the bed floor (from the bottom side) and welding in place. I made the step the same height as the bed floor rib. Still haven't installed it,... but here's a few pics of the piece I made. I don't have your welding skills, so I have to make do. |
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