Re: 69 Custom 30 wrecker restoration
 

Thanks, it must have taken some time to do so. This turned into a novel. :lol:

Lots more to come...

Re: 69 Custom 30 wrecker restoration
 

Updates?

Re: 69 Custom 30 wrecker restoration
 

Nothing right now, been taking care of some of the other cars/trucks in my "fleet". :lol:

I'll be back at it in the spring time... :chevy:

Re: 69 Custom 30 wrecker restoration
 

Congratulations on the wrecker find. It looks like it is in good hands. Just got my 72 back from the paint shop. Looks like we both will have a busy spring. Give it hell. walt

Re: 69 Custom 30 wrecker restoration
 

Subscribed.....sweet truck

Re: 69 Custom 30 wrecker restoration
 

Ok Bob, it's spring, so what ya got done???

Re: 69 Custom 30 wrecker restoration
 

Funny you should ask. I've been working on an update the past few days. I'll have one soon... Lots to talk about...

Thanks for the interest! :chevy:

Re: 69 Custom 30 wrecker restoration
 

Guess it's about time to do an update! Took some time off over the winter from this project but I've been getting some things done in the past month.

The main plan right now is to finish up the cab so I can paint the firewall and interior area. Once those are done, the fun begins. I can install the engine & transmission, the dash with all components, wiring, column, pedals, etc. This will allow me to fire up the engine and get the cam broken in. (and get alot of stuff out of my garage that I've been tripping on for 6 months!)

With that paint work done, I will also be able to reinstall the rear window and am going to have a windshield company come to my place and put in a new windshield. I don't trust myself with $230 dollars of fragile windshield glass! (back ones are no problem however)

The pics below show the cab getting sanded to bare metal. I used an 80 grit
sanding disc then etch primed. I did the same to the firewall. The cab & roof are very straight so once this is all done, I will apply a few coats of a 2K urethane high build primer and block sand out later. I will do this same thing to ALL body panels.

Re: 69 Custom 30 wrecker restoration
 

I recently installed the new repro drip rails (pic #1) and they fit really good, better than I expected. The other day I resealed around the roof drip rails with POR patch. It's something new I'm trying. It dries very hard and won't crack so they say. I'm so tired of re-doing roof gutters on these trucks every few years due to failing seam sealer. (3-M fast n firm specifically) I'm hoping this will help to avoid that. I'll be using it on some of the firewall and door jam seams as well.

I went to Carlisle, Pa car show on 4/26 with the hopes of picking up a new badly needed cowl panel so I can complete that area but unfortunately, this part has been sold out for about a year now and is still not available!@#!. Goodmark must have shipped them on the slowest boat from China or maybe pirates got them. :( I can't wait any longer for this part so yesterday I removed my old cowl from the old firewall section I've been saving to re-use it. Lots of metal work will have to be done to it and I plan to get started on that today. The bright side is I saved about $250 but in the end, will probably even out with all the labor I'm in for. (see last 3 pics)

Re: 69 Custom 30 wrecker restoration
 

While I shouldn't touch the box yet, I just couldn't resist getting started on it a bit. I'll just mess with this once in a while when the mood strikes me but not full time. The rest of the truck is the part I need to focus on right now.

I started out just cleaning the leaves out but somehow wound up getting carried away like usual. :D Shown below I used my engine hoist to stand it up on end so I could work on it easier. (this thing is SOOOO crazy heavy!) Got all the leaves out though! ;)

Getting a better look at the bottom shows me I will have to replace the main frame rails as they are flaking badly between them and the floor plate. I got lucky in that a new place opened near me that sells all kinds of metal so I got 2 new C channel pieces for the rails as well as some 3/16 inch square tube that I'll cut in half to replace the cap trim that runs around the box. I am also replacing the metal rods that work the winch as the new rod is very inexpensive.

I cut out a section of the box as shown using my sawzall and a cut off tool but quickly found this thicker material takes a long time to go through. The perfect excuse to buy myself a plasma cutter! Got one from Eastwood and it works great! Cutting the bad spots out won't be any problem now! lol

I also decided it was time to buy an arc welder since I'll be working with thicker metals. I could use my mig welder but an arc welder is better for this. (and another excuse to buy a new tool) :) I haven't arc welded since I was in high school's metal shop so wasn't sure how it would go but I caught on very quick while practicing with it.

More to come...

Re: 69 Custom 30 wrecker restoration
 

lol, are you restoring a wrecker, or building a new tool collection? lol

Re: 69 Custom 30 wrecker restoration
 

I like it. :metal: Keep up the progress, I can't wait to see it finished. I can honestly say it'll be the first wrecker I've seen restored. (or even in decent shape for that matter) Great build.

Re: 69 Custom 30 wrecker restoration
 

wow it is looking good. Ive been trhere and it is a long tedius process but gonna be a great truck when you are done.

Re: 69 Custom 30 wrecker restoration
 

thats one hell of a task

Re: 69 Custom 30 wrecker restoration
 

Lookin good!

Re: 69 Custom 30 wrecker restoration
 

First off, a big THANK YOU to Tim (coops714x4) from this forum who donated a "flyswatter" mirror arm & bracket to the project. I've been searching for these mirrors with absolutely no leads almost since this project started! With that one arm/bracket, I'll be able to use it to make a duplicate for the other side. I don't have mirror heads but will put on a pair of painted rectangular 69 repro's. I think these originally had a mirror head design all their own but they can be changed easily later if I find the right ones. The important thing is I can do my door skins with the correct inner brackets now and not have to worry about changing anything later. (and having to repaint the doors!)

I know some of you don't like this style mirror and at first, I didn't either but it very quickly grew on me. I located some west coast style DG5 mirrors recently from a big truck and considered putting those on but to me, it's like bolting scaffolding onto your doors. LOL They are massive! And since this trucks heavy towing days are behind it, the small mirrors will do just fine. (and be original!)

Well now that this huge obstacle is out of the way, I've made quite alot of progress lately!

After a few days to revive that old cowl panel, I got it back in good shape again. Lots of metal work and 2 coats of POR-15 on the bottom side. (Pic #1) I also did the top part of the inner cowl with POR and then primed it before it fully dried. (Pic #2)

(Pic #3) shows the wetsanded dash panel getting a test fit. All was perfect so it was fully bolted and welded in. Notice the kick panels recieved a skim coat of filler to blend in the new lower patch panels.

(Pic #4) shows the completed cowl panel installed and black Eastwood seam sealer just applied. This is the BEST seam sealer I've ever used! Can't say how durable it is just yet but it applies like a dream! After using many different brands over the years, what a difference with this one.

(Pic #5) shows a new day where after getting everything sanded and cleaned, I applied a gray sealer coat inside and out.

Continued...

Re: 69 Custom 30 wrecker restoration
 

After one hour, I was able to get a few coats of 514 Red (looks more orange to me!) (pic #1) I used a single stage acrylic enamel and added hardner to it.

My main focus here was to make the firewall, ceiling and around rear window, dash panel and door jams nice. (they recieved an extra coat and most of my attention) All other areas such as under dash panel & floors got a color coat but since they get covered up or unseen, I didn't fuss with them as much. (as the factory would have done)

I did not paint the outside of the cab (roof and rear of cab) as I want to paint all the exterior portions all at the same time so all will match. (next year)

(Pics #2, 3 & 4) show some more "after" color shots. This color acts weird in front of the camera. Depending on the light source, it does change shades. From what I've learned, this color will darken in time too.

I have a 71 Cheyenne 20 that's also this color originally. I may paint that one pure red instead of having 2 trucks the same color. (and I also have a 72 Chevelle that's Hugger Orange!) While it's a different shade, it's still close enough and don't want to overdose on orange!

Continued...

Re: 69 Custom 30 wrecker restoration
 

I wasted no time continuing on. The very next day (today) I drug the old 350 (now fully rebuilt) out of the garage as well as that "anchor" SM465 transmission. This is one HEAVY tranny!

(pic #1 & 2)

After spending some time bolting on the bell, flywheel and installing the clutch/pressure plate, I "married" the engine and transmission together. (it was a small ceremony, just me and the new couple) :D


And here it is (pic #3) making it's way back into the chassis. (the engine tilter was doing what it does best in this photo) Not shown is how I had to jack the front of the cab up about 5 inches so the transmission would clear due to the cross member not being removable on these trucks and the tall top plate. Much easier to this way rather than install trans from bottom after the engine was in. (pics #4 & #5) show it all nestled in. And that's where I'm at as of right now!

Won't be long now until I fire it up!

Re: 69 Custom 30 wrecker restoration
 

Bob, first you are VERY WELCOME my friend, (there wasn't any way I was gonna put that back on my truck) JK LOL:lol::lol: that's what this forum is for to share and help....
GREAT progress, you make me look like I'm backing up LOL , its coming along nicely, keep it up and you'll have it finished before ya know it .
Since your doing a total restoration, are you going to put the lettering back on it, or leave it plain, or perhaps do your own "shop" logos ?? I think It would be real cool to letter it the way it was, and even cooler if the PO could see it and maybe sign the glove box, AAAHHH Americana preserved.
Oh by the way, what's this "next year" stuff, I wanna ride in it before then !! LOL GREAT TRUCK, GREAT PROGRESS. Coop

Re: 69 Custom 30 wrecker restoration
 

Its purdy !

Have you got pics of the mirrors ?

I'm a trucker by trade so I aint skeerd of no big mirrors :metal:

Re: 69 Custom 30 wrecker restoration
 

Coop, afraid I won't be able to letter it at all! The laws here say it can't be lettered unless it's registered and insured as commercial. I've heard that I will probably have to put on "not for hire" on it too. If so, I'll do that on some magnetic sheet so it's easily removable.

So because of this, it's going to be the "brand new" wrecker look before old Vic lettered it.

RINC, first pics is of the DG5 mirrors I considered putting on. These are really big and would be great for towing but mine won't see much work. (thanks to the laws) Wouldn't mind doing a little towing to recoup some of my investment but heard it's a $3,000 dollar fine if I'm caught towing without all the permits, licenses and insurance! :(

Second pic shows what the flyswatter type long arm mirrors look like. (not my truck, just for reference)

Re: 69 Custom 30 wrecker restoration
 

I have to say that you have made some nice progress on your truck/wrecker,keep pictures coming & the progress going forward.Keep on Truckin' :metal: :cool:

Re: 69 Custom 30 wrecker restoration
 

That's asinine that there's a law that tells you can't letter something w/o registering it as commercial. It's about the use,not the look. That's stupid backwards as can be. In MD DOT laws say a commercial vehicle (over 10,000# GVW) has to have the company name and phone number (or ICC#). But,it doesn't say you can't letter something that is not commercial use. I'm in the American Truck Historical Society and members here as well as in PA (and other states) have their not for hire vintage heavy trucks lettered and registered historic. They are basically considers RVs. A huge diesel pusher RV (like a Prevost) isn't registered as a commercial vehicle and they can letter anything they want.
Anyway,that sucks that you can't even letter your truck the way it was...which is why you went through so much on "that" particular truck

Re: 69 Custom 30 wrecker restoration
 

Bob, its a shame you can't letter the truck, (some laws are just stupid) but it will still be WAY cool. Here in Oklahoma they don't care what it says on the truck as long as you have a DPS # or "NOT FOR HIRE" on it. I'm trying to come up with a cool logo or lettering to put on it when I get it done. do you know if "Vic" is still around ?? If so I still think you should look him up and let him see it. Coop

Re: 69 Custom 30 wrecker restoration
 

I guess I should say that I'm only going from what I heard on that lettering thing. Will have to look into it more when I go to license it.

Coop, Vic was alive last I knew but he was 80 I think. ;)

Re: 69 Custom 30 wrecker restoration
 

I'll still drool on the pics of your wrecker even if it has little mirrors an no logo's !

Re: 69 Custom 30 wrecker restoration
 

Which version of the Eastwood's seam sealer did you use? The regular high solids version ($13/tube) or the 2k self-leveling stuff ($30/tube)?

I need to do my drip rail and am going to use the Eastwood stuff - just curious which one you used.

Thanks!
Curt

Re: 69 Custom 30 wrecker restoration
 

This was just the cheaper black sealer. Time will tell how it holds up but for applying it, it was real nice.

Re: 69 Custom 30 wrecker restoration
 

Cool. Thanks for the help.

Any tricks for applying it?

Re: 69 Custom 30 wrecker restoration
 

So you can't letter it but you have to letter it... :crazy:

Re: 69 Custom 30 wrecker restoration
 

This is a “catch up” update. Sometimes these updates are harder than working on the truck especially when I let them pile up. lol Starting where I left off in my last post, some of this happened a month ago or better but I will bring the story to current status.

I've been having so much fun bolting on new parts lately!

I wet sanded and buffed out the dash, roof and kick panels, then got to put some of the dashboard back together. A new gauge bezel sure brightened things up as well as a new glove box emblem & ignition bezel. While I had the cluster apart, I polished the lens so that too looks like new. A new dash pad was also installed.

The maroon color is not reproduced so my only choice was to vinyl spray it. I bought a new red one and changed it to the correct shade of maroon. Looks fantastic! I sprayed the top of the dash with a matching satin finish maroon just as the factory did. (pic #1)

I will be vinyl spraying the new seat upholstery and to freshen up the original maroon door panels too. This truck had a "color keyed" floor mat so it too will probably get the vinyl spray treatment. A black repro mat is just waiting to be installed.

I was a little skeptical about using vinyl spray at first but I did a pair of sun visors a while back and am very impressed with the turn out. Unless you were told, you would think they were always maroon and certainly not painted!

Of course as soon as this restoration is over, the resto parts makers WILL come out with all the maroon parts! LOL

The steering column I did in gloss maroon and it's at this time I noticed the 4 way knob broken off. (VERY common with these) Some repro turn signal switches don't have this red knob and also require a small adaptor for the wiring harness. That didn't fly with me so a trip to a local junkyard scored a good used one. A nice original signal lever was the finishing touch. Well, actually a nice steering wheel is still needed to finish off the column so the hunt goes on for that. The original wheel is just too far gone to repair. (Pic #2)

While it doesn't really look like much progress at this point, this part of the build seems to be taking a lot longer than I thought it would. It's the details that take so much time. Those are the things that will catch the eye so I'm taking the extra time to do all I can to make things correct now.

Another hold up is all the little things I DIDN'T know I still needed! I was certain I had everything I needed to put this back together and by looking at the pile of new parts I collected, you would have thought so too however everyday I find something else I have to order. Just the little things like fabric wire loom for the temp wire, correct tower clamps for the hoses, etc, etc.

There are very few things I will add or change on this truck as the goal is strict original but you'll notice the really cool light/switch panel I mounted to the left side of the column.

This truck had a very crude piece of angled metal with a few switches "thrown" in and no indicator lights. None of them matched and they weren't even sitting straight! (and don't get me started on the electrical wiring mess to go along with those!)

I found this really cool switch panel in an I.H. wrecker in the same junkyard I got this truck from. It's not homemade either as it had an Ernest Holmes sticker on it. I did shorten it a bit as it originally had 2 holes to the left where a PTO & warning light would go and I removed that name tag. (I can't have a Holmes name on my Wreckmaster!) (pic #3)


I will be adding an old brake light switch under the PTO knob that comes through the floor hump that will activate the red light on the panel when the knob is raised up to indicate the PTO is engaged. Not like I wouldn’t hear that chain “whirring” away on the winch to let me know but just for the cool factor. :D

On the other side of the firewall, I've been busy hooking everything up that will be needed to fire the engine up. This too is taking alot of time but worth spending now so everything is done correct. I even put the "R" back on the firewall above the heater box with a black grease pencil! It's the only marking this truck had from the factory and one of those details that will catch the eye. (I almost wish there were more factory markings!) (pic #4 and pic #5)

Re: 69 Custom 30 wrecker restoration
 

Ok, it's been a few more days. I finished the reupholster of the seat and vinyl sprayed it. Looks great! I'm very happy with it. Gas tank is back in, floor mat in and the seat reinstalled. Now it’s starting to look like something!

I’m not happy with the repro floor mat fit. It doesn't seem wide enough as there is a 3/4 inch gap on both sides. (and that is without the padding, worse when I used that)

Originally this would have been “color keyed” maroon but I think I will just leave it black rather than wasting any more money on it to make it maroon. While I really like the mats in these trucks, I may have to switch over to carpet eventually. I have mats in my other trucks and found these start to dry rot and crack around the 2 year old mark. Cheap Chinese rubber! !@#!@ I'm not wasting any more money on these mats, I’ve bought my last one! It's a shame the quality of some repro parts.

Re: 69 Custom 30 wrecker restoration
 

A few more days go by...

All ready to do the fire up, I put in about 2-1/2 gallons of fresh gas in and THEN noticed gas dripping out of the rocker panel! !@#$! Bad omen so I cancelled the fire up for that day. (pic #1)

I cleaned this tank out real well before installing it, sloshed it around tipping the tank different direction and it never leaked. There is only one reason I can think of. After I installed it, the neck wasn't centered in the cab opening so I "tweaked" it a bit. It must have opened the seam??? Will know when I remove the tank. ARgh!!!

Having to act quickly, the only thing I could think of to catch the gas leak was to take an old radiator hose to curve around the door jam and catch the leaking gas. It worked but took about an hour or better for almost all the gas to come back out. Sure put a damper on my day…
(pic #2)

---------------------------

Next day...

I decided to go ahead today with the start up. I hooked a large funnel to the fuel pump to bypass the gas tank for now. Feeding it with this “IV” avoids the fuel tank debacle for now.

Primed the oil system for a few minutes with a drill and then got it all back together.
It fired up almost immediately! It was making a loud scraping sound so shut it down. Turns out it was the flywheel cover hitting the crank flange so I got that quickly fixed.

A tapping sound got me scared again on the second run so shut down again to pull the valve covers. I found no oil getting to the rockers! (later I found it was just the exhaust manifolds needing a little tightening that caused the tapping sound)

The next day I primed the oil system again. No oil to the top end with the drill so I took all the rockers off, coated all contacting parts with lubriplate assembly lube and reinstalled and reset all the valves. I figured the only way to get oil up was to run it and with all parts coated, it would buy some time to do so. Luckily that did the trick. I could see oil running off the rockers through the oil cap opening.

I ran it 15 minutes at 2,000 RPM's and all went well. NO smoke at all! I am however not happy with the oil pressure readings. Cold and spinning with the drill I got 40lbs. Once it was warmed up, pressure at 2,000 rpms was down to 19lbs. Acceptable for a worn out engine but not good enough for a fresh rebuild. After the 15 minutes was up, I lowered the idle down and the oil pressure came down to match. At about 700 rpms, I'm only getting about 7lbs of pressure! I tried 2 gauges and both read the same. I even bled the air out of the oil pressure line but it had no improvement.

I assembled this engine myself and it's the 3rd one so far so I do have some experience. I did check all bearing clearances and all were good. I'm going to change the oil & filter and check it again. If that doesn't do the trick, I guess I'll have to drop the pan and swap that pump out.

I chose a stock pump but will go with a high volume type this time. If that doesn't work, I'm not sure what I'll try next. ??? I sure hope I don't have to pull the engine back out!!!

At this time, I’m taking a break from the engine and moving on to the doors.

On another subject, I located a source for new correct 3 panel maroon seat belt webbing so will have a friend of mine sew those up with my original buckles, clasps and retractors.

Re: 69 Custom 30 wrecker restoration
 

Well for this update, I buffed out the stainless window trim and got the rear glass back in. It's only the second one of these I've done and it went very well.

I had a glass shop come to my house to put in a new windshield but things did not go well with it. :( I supplied the gasket and it's was a piece of !@@$ Never again will I buy anything made by Superseal! The rubber was way too soft and appeared to be too large. With the rubber on the glass and the trim installed, it would barely hold it in place. Looked all distorted like it was too big and the trim groove was not shaped correctly.

The guys attempted to install it hoping that would straighten it out but went terrible. They actually got it all the way in but there were gaps between the trim and glass and didn't look right from gasket to the body. Horrible! Back out it came. They are ordering another brand (Precision) and will come back again in a few days for attempt #2. (fingers crossed)


-------------------

Windshield attempt #2:

I’m happy to say, this attempt was successful. Using a Precision brand gasket this time, it installed easily and looks fantastic! After installing, the guys injected sealer into the area behind the gasket. A very nice job and looks great! Nothing like a brand new windshield and another item gets crossed off the list. (pic #1) (note air cleaner is still in red primer, will be painted soon)

Next I got started on the passenger side door. With the outer skin removed (last year) I now focused my attention to replacing the lower inner panel. Repro’s of these aren’t “exactly” shaped perfectly (big surprise there) but I don’t have any major troubles installing these. (these will be my 3rd pair that I’ve done) It’s best to only use as much of the new panel as needed. I typically only use the lower 4-1/2 inches of these. It takes a lot of time measuring and scribing but you want to spend the time now so you don’t cut too much of the door shell off. (pic #2)

Most people (myself included) might normally try to find door shells in better shape but I’m trying to keep as much original as I can so I chose to fix these.

I cleaned up the inner rust and used POR-15 on that area. Shown here doing a test fit in the door opening. (pic #3) Once all was well, the outer skin was installed and all welds completed. (pic #4)

I’m now working on the driver door then back to that oil pressure problem.


More to come, stay tuned. 

Re: 69 Custom 30 wrecker restoration
 

Amazing!!!!!

Re: 69 Custom 30 wrecker restoration
 

Very cool build! This thing will look awesome when finished. That's too bad about not being allowed to letter it, you wonder who makes up these laws sometimes....

Re: 69 Custom 30 wrecker restoration
 

this is a very cool build, def wanna see more of it

Re: 69 Custom 30 wrecker restoration
 

Bob she's looking GREAT !!!! FANTASTIC work (wish I had your skill and patients) sorry to hear about the oil pressure issue, who did the machine work on the engine ? I am sure you put new cam bearings in, I hope its just a pump issue. I read somewhere that a V8 chevy should have a min. of 14 lbs of oil pressure at Idle (even that is too low for me) anyway I hope its a easy fix. I have been working on my C30, soon I will start on the wrecker unit. keep up the good work, Coop

Re: 69 Custom 30 wrecker restoration
 

Thanks Coop. I was just working on this yesterday. I dropped the pan (easier said than done!) and installed a high volume Melling pump. I tested it by spinning the pump with a drill and got higher pressures than with the old one so that might have fixed it.

Today I will get it all back together and fire it up to really test it. My fingers are crossed big time on this. Hoping to move forward rather than have to tear the engine back out!!! :(

The block had new cam bearings installed at the machine shop. I know I have all the oil galley plugs in and the bearing clearances were all good so that really only leaves the pump. (I think)

Re: 69 Custom 30 wrecker restoration
 

wow!