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Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
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Made some more progress on the door bottoms. Welded in the corner patch then dressed all the crappy looking welds. I know I'll get the hang of the MIG, but it's starting out as a love-hate relationship. Spotwelded the speaker box in place and did some final trimming and fitting. Media blasting turned up some minor areas of rust that I need to patch before welding the door bottom on permanently. Bondo is also covering a dented area someone fixed the old fashioned way ...by drilling holes thru the skin and using a slide hammer with a sheetmetal screw on the end to yank the dent. All the pookey will have to come out so I can weld the holes up. Having the door bottom removed gives me better access for the necessary hammer and dolly work. When the door bottom goes on the final time, I'll dolly down the flanges I left on the corner patch which should give me a nice repair.
Xeen gave me a much appreciated heads up and some good suggestions on insulating the speaker enclosures. I've never done a stereo system that consisted of anything more than four speakers and an in-dash radio. Lots to learn ...hope it doesn't end up being an "old dog, new tricks" deal. |
Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
Vic I hope that hood works out for you. I am glad you can use it because I don't want to store it for the 5 years my project will take. I am also bummed I couldn't stop by Friday. I had to play clean up at work so I was sending emails and making calls all afternoon.
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Vic, you do awesome metal work. You definitely inspire me to become better at it.
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Exciting build. I know the feeling...great work!
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Metal work looks great! MIG tip: I wound up aiming at the leading edge of the previous tack, instead of side by side. Got less light thru after that way. Tell me to shaddup, you prolly know this, just kickin in my .02. Looks great, as always!
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Weld spatter already burned a hole thru my jeans. :waah: Like I said before ...thus far it's a love/hate sort of thing. But I really like that it puts waaaay less heat on the parts than the TIG. |
Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
Well, if I can impart- Get online and get the .023 easygrind from ESAB. Lots easier to work with, and a Lot softer bead. Your fitup looks terrific. Wire About 1/8 or so out of the shield. Pretty good "pop" on the gas, this all happens in a hurry. Speed at whatever works best, you'll know fast. I tended to go vertical with a 10deg or so tip toward the previous tack. I always got taught to push unless there was no other way. I also had several starts 2-3 inches apart. I dont run a bead on sheet. LOTS of heat that way. I just run tacks over tacks, but I actually kick the heat up a bit for a fast bite, kinda like "flooring" the tig pedal. Here's my pattern-
x----------------x--------------x--------------x---------------x---------------x then- x-------x--------x-------x--------x--------x----x-------x------x--------x------x then- xx------x--------xx------x--------xx-------x-----xx-----x------xx-------x-----xx then xxx-----x--------xxx------x------xxx-------x-----xxx------x-----xxx------x---xxx and so forth, till your gaps are filled in. Clear you calendar, open a beer, and settle in. Kinda like painting a car. Make a round, go sip you beer. Don't do more, don't poke at it, don't screw with it, don't get horny and just weld 'er up. It actually goes faster than it would seem. Why am I telling you this? You've forgotten more than I'll ever know. |
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I don't see why you can't use compressed air to cool the metal so you can work faster, but then I'm not a welder so what do I know about it.
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Well, you can, and lotsa folks do, but you run the risk of shrinkage, even more than you're gonna see. It's a good management tool though, used properly. I just prefer to go slow. I'm no ones expert on anything, believe it!
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that is some impressive metal work on that door
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After spending the last week or so on the CAD program and cranking out some parts for friends on the lathe and the mill, I'm finally back on CRLS. I needed to clean up the inside of the doors so the acoustic sheet would adhere to the surface. After I got the doors back from the blaster, there was still a lot of the original factory asphalt based material on the inner surface of the skin. Blast media won't really touch that stuff, so out came the scraper. Some of the gunk chipped off readily, but most was stuck pretty tight. I quickly tired of using a putty knife and hammer, so while my better half was out running errands, I asked her to stop by HF and pick up a pneumatic scraper. Turned out to be the best 20 bucks I've ever dropped there. I generally have low expectations for their tools, but this one is a solid piece. Took me longer to scrounge up an air fitting and install it than it did to remove the rest of the door crud.
After scraping and wiping down the surface, I cut the Rattle Trap to length and started laying it in. It conforms pretty well with the shop at 70 degrees and it didn't take long to cover the entire inner door surface. I always cover the seams with aluminum Shurtape because when the acoustic material gets warm, it will "bleed" droplets of the black asphaltic material. Covering it with aluminum tape seals the seams and edges and locks in the pookey. I mocked up the door bottom again and drilled a hole thru the door jamb and one in the speaker box for routing the speaker wires when the time comes. I cut a length of 1/2" thin wall chromoly tubing to run between the jamb and the speaker box. I'll weld the tube into the door jamb and then seal around the other end in the speaker box. Since the tube runs downhill, there should be no way for moisture to enter the enclosure. Now I just have to repeat the process on the driver side door. |
Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
Looking good. I am in the process of dissecting my donor roof. I might need to take you up on that spot welder soon. Are you going to be working on the truck tomorrow? If so I might swing by and say hi.
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Work looks great!
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Is the Auction this weekend or next? Good luck either way!
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Daaaaang! You better keep her! (The wife!)
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I was bummed I didn't get by today to say hello. I started watching the news about Boston and it was so interesting I ended up not sleeping at all last night.
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The clouds are moving in and the temperature is steadily dropping. High for tomorrow is supposed to be low 30's so I took advantage of the beautiful morning and rolled CRLS outside and took a can opener to the lid. Sparks scorched the abandoned mouse house in the gap between the inner and outer roof panels, but no harm done. Vacuumed about five pounds of loose rust and mouse droppings from the around the edges and surveyed the situation. Note the 3/8" thick layer of filler along the cut above the driver side door. Underside of the roof in that area shows the bondo that oozed thru the holes they drilled to pull a dent. Thankfully, it looks like the new outer roof skin and the inner header panel will take care of 95% of the rot. Rest will have to be handled via patches. Fortunately, Brian G. had several pieces from his donor roof that he re-gifted to me. They will make the patch process go much more quickly. Time to break out the spotweld cutter.
The cab corner on the driver side is a joy to behold. Haven't decided whether to weld up the gaps and massage the bends or just cut it off and put a new panel on. Happily, that's not something I have to decide today. |
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YIKES! That patch looks scary. If it fits better than it looks, I'd just finish the install. If it doesn't fit well, cut it out.
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YUMMY! Out of the fryin pan, into the fire! Nuthin but a step for a stepper! Watch and be amazed, boys, watch and be amazed.
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You gotta massage the bends anyway, as I recall. A little slice and tweak, no biggie. When you gonna do the floor? I'd like to see that process. On the one hand, it seems like a lotta work. On the other, bang, bang, you're done! As always, if you need help, holler!
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After I get all the parts back, I'll post the step by step on the floor / firewall replacement. As slow as I am, it may be a while before that happens. |
Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
I can bring LBT and a trailer big enough for a bed anytime, no prob. If you need both for a few days, no problem. Just let me know!
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so i take it this one isn't staying a driver either? lol
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the wood bed doesn't count as a load of lumber. lol
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Continued with drilling spotwelds around the roof skin perimeter. Slow going as I was having to stand on a milk crate. The workshop has a low ceiling nearby and every time I bumped my head it would make me jump. Nonetheless, I managed to window the rotted area above the door and test fit the patch. Looks like it will make a good repair. Will have it blasted with the rest of the truck so I'll have nice clean metal when I weld it in.
I finally got tired of being in an awkward drilling position, so I set aside my tools and started removing the steering column and the remaining parts that were attached to the cab. I'd cut a window into the floor on Wednesday when it was nice, so I dropped the cherry picker boom thru it and hooked it to a piece of angle iron. Assisted by my able helper, Kathy, we lifted the cab off the frame and set it on the floor. I can now stand flat footed and drill spotwelds till I'm blue in the face. |
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I feel for you on the spot welds. I have mine all done. My hand has blisters from holding my drill. After the inner and outer panels and roof I am Spot welded out. When you get ready to do the roof let me know. I can come over to help you sit it in place.
It's looking good! Posted via Mobile Device |
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Heck yeah now you are cooking with gas!
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