Re: Kell's Two Cents - 1946 build
 

my vent has a broken pivot bolt, thanks for the reminder. :(

interior is looking super sweet though!

Re: Kell's Two Cents - 1946 build
 

Lord forgive me for what must be done to this original, perfect condition artifact of American vehicular history

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Re: Kell's Two Cents - 1946 build
 

KELL, DON'T CUT THOSE INNERS UP!!!!!!!!!!! Have you seen what a good pair go for on eBay? If you want a pair to butcher up let me know.
I have a pair that have already been cut up so the control arms clear. I will give them to you.

Re: Kell's Two Cents - 1946 build
 

I bought out a dead project, only for the parts I needed and the rest was getting hauled off the next day, so deals were had. One thing I wanted but didnt have time to remove were these weird home made splash covers for the bottom of the engine, the exhaust went through one and they looked really cool, but again, no time.

fast forward a year and see a set on ebay described as original parts that "everyone took off". selling for unobtanium kind of money. sh*t.

Re: Kell's Two Cents - 1946 build
 

I'm in on this build. I really really like this truck and what you are doing with it. I have a question too, back on post #55 p.3 where did you get that steering column saver? I have seen them bf but I never noticed one that was threaded like that.

Re: Kell's Two Cents - 1946 build
 

I believe it's a CPP column saver. What part specifically are your looking at? If you're referring to the part between the column saver and the collar it's not threaded actually it's just 2 washers and a thrust bearing in between. This part's typically hidden inside the column but we found it easier just to install it at the base of it instead

Hey I really appreciate the support, especially from you as I'm a big fan of that '51 of yours. Awesome truck

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4399/...789d6f09_c.jpg

Re: Kell's Two Cents - 1946 build
 

Hey guy's, so I've been working on the truck absolutely nonstop and haven't been able to catch up and give an update.

I'm trying to put my frustration into words without having to sound melodramatic, but seriously the brakes have been absolutely kicking my ass! SO frustrating. It took me about 4 days solid to get even any resistance in the pedal, but I'm glad to say I think I finally got it

I'm heading out of town now until Labor Day, so that Monday I should get another day on the truck and should know for sure where I'm at, and beyond that I can catch up with everything that I've been working on and give an update.

-HOWEVER-

The truck IS running! I did just a few adjustments, shot a quick vid, then shut it down and started messing with the brakes for what seemed like the worst stretch of my adult life... and now I just wanted to give you guys a quick update to hold it over as I'll be gone for the next week and a half. After just a few tweaks it actually fired up pretty nice. I'll mess with it more when I get back

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dkq1z...ature=youtu.be

Thanks for checking it out guys. Catch y'all Labor Day

Re: Kell's Two Cents - 1946 build
 

So what was the fix on the brakes as all of us with an under cab power booster seem to have the same troubles??????????????????????

Re: Kell's Two Cents - 1946 build
 

Damn this youtube embed. I tried taking the "s" out of http as this forum suggests but to no avail

I'll have to wait till labor day to really verify that I'm good to go but after having a very hard time bleeding the rear, I think the ultimate thing was the booster-mc gap. From what I measured it had nearly 1 5/16" to start with. I got a longer bolt and got it down to 1/4"

Re: Kell's Two Cents - 1946 build
 

I'm late to the party but man I'm digging your build.

Re: Kell's Two Cents - 1946 build
 

Please explain longer bolt, I'm not sure what you mean.

Re: Kell's Two Cents - 1946 build
 

The adjustment bolt on the back of the booster rod, which activates the cylinder, was only like 3/4" in total length so I wasn't able to extend it out far enough to close the gap that I needed. I replaced it with a longer bolt in order to have it extend out farther. A photo would really go a long ways here, and who knows I might be doing it all wrong but I was really moving trying to wrap it up today and didn't snap any shots

Re: Kell's Two Cents - 1946 build
 

Thanks man really appreciate it

Re: Kell's Two Cents - 1946 build
 

ok here we go. I changed out this little bolt with one about an inch longer. this way it extended into the rod solid but then stuck out about an inch as well. I put a new nut and a lock washer on it to lock it in place

guys please somebody let me know if I should not have done this for any reason. I was just trying to close the gap up


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Re: Kell's Two Cents - 1946 build
 

Man I wish I had this picture 2 weeks ago when I was screwing with my booster. This bolt you are talking about, does it thread into the main rod that goes into the booster?
When I did my measurement I had about 8-9 mm gap between the rod and the piston. I couldn't for the life of me figure out how to adjust the rod to take up the gap between the booster rod a the MC piston. I ended up shimming out the poston in the MC. Probably not the best solution but at least it made my pedal better.
Where did you find a longer bolt? I'm still not sure I understand what is going on in the pic. Is it a threaded rod within the larger rod?

Re: Kell's Two Cents - 1946 build
 

Curious, do you know what size MC you have Cell? I was told to go bigger, but also hear a smaller 15/16 MC would work better. URGHHHHHHH!

Re: Kell's Two Cents - 1946 build
 

Yeah so the "Hydraulic Push Rod" is what's going to activate the MC. The small bolt at the end of it even had a little lock nut on it, so it looked like it was there to provide adjustment. I pulled the bolt and it was just a standard 1/4-24 bolt, so I hit the hardware store and got a longer one. I couldn't find the exact same head so I just went with a Fabory phillips head.

What trips me out is that with my booster and MC coming together I figured it'd at least be pretty close, but it had about an 1 5/16" gap, just wayyy too big. With the new bolt I set it to about a 1/4" and it felt way better, but now I'm just doing some reading and found an article claiming .020" to be the right gap, so it sounds like I still have a ways to go. Hope that helps

Re: Kell's Two Cents - 1946 build
 

well, you have to take out the "s" AND delete the ampersand and everything after the ampersand that isnt part of the link.




edit: sounds great!

Re: Kell's Two Cents - 1946 build
 

You're the man!

Re: Kell's Two Cents - 1946 build
 

Did you bench bleed your MC? They call it bench bleed for a reason, as your MC pushrod won't push in as far as you can with it on the bench. You need to bleed all the air out of it and make sure you eliminate that issue first. as for pushrod length, to me it looks like your pedal is too close to the floor. I had a similar issue with a clutch on my 51'. It would bottom out bf the pushrod could go as far as it needed to. So maybe you can lengthen your pedal, should be easy to do. If you notice on stock pedals they stick up quite a bit off floor.

Re: Kell's Two Cents - 1946 build
 

Alright whats up fellas... I had promised an update after Labor Day but I ended up getting back into town Monday night instead of Sunday night like I had planned so I did't get the full day on it like I was looking forward to. I finally got over there tonight though and had a chance just to get reacquainted and reprioritize my To-Do List, and this Sunday I'll be getting a solid day on it as well.

I did get a couple hours on it tonight though and got a couple photos, so I want to update on the wiring a little bit

As stated before, I went with the American Autowire Route 9 kit, which is just a really stripped down basic kit, but they hook it up and give you a really high quality, complete set up that makes it easy to wire. Their instructions were the best I had seen online, and the two times I called the tech line to clarify some decisions I was making they were totally cool and extremely helpful. I gathered up all the paper work I had filed away on any wiring components I had purchased and I set to work

First off, I set aside a lot of sustained time to complete this part of the job and I am so grateful that I did as it made all the difference. I wouldn't say it was more work than I expected it to be, or even more difficult than I expected it to be, but trying my best to be meticulous with wire routing and bundling, and trying to get the whole thing to come together as cleanly as I could was so much more time consuming than you could imagine. Trying to do this under pressure would have just totally pissed me off and would have made for a frustrating experience, but with time set aside it was actually pretty fun getting as particular as I could muster and zoning in on it.

That being said, I still ended up with a few minor things that I think I would have changed if I were starting all over again. I put everything under the dash, but for some reason I thought it would be cleanest bunching all of my components really close together... So then after mounting the fuse box, the battery distribution block, the fan relay, the horn relay, then running all the wiring, it was all so close that it really made that area look congested. I think spacing things out and planning for that aspect could have helped clean it up a lot

One thing I was frustrated about with the kit itself was that I knowingly bought it in part because it had a 30 Amp fuse for the Heater/AC, and being that I wasn't running either of those, my electric fan called for a 30 Amp fuse, so I just thought that was perfect. After talking with the tech line though they basically said that they really don't recommend that I run it like that and that that much of a draw could damage other parts of the fuse panel connected to the same bus on the inside, etc, etc... So I figured I had a slam dunk but instead in my already congested area I was pushed into having to add a 30 Amp inline fuse between the battery distribution block and the fan relay.

I spent a lot, a lot of time organizing the wiring and I think my diligence paid off as even if it's not perfect, I might fool a couple people with how tight and clean the rest of it looks. I bought a decent pair of Irwin wire stripper/crimpers and I used a lot of heat shrink connectors. At the end of it all I had very little trouble shooting to do and it all pretty much worked out

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Re: Kell's Two Cents - 1946 build
 

Alright so I also bought some pretty heavy duty cable from the local stereo shop (which might be overkill, but hey) and I went ahead and crimped, then soldered, then heat shrinked these connections. I have the positive lead running along the passenger frame rail to the starter, then I have the ground going to frame, a solid ground from block to frame, then another one from block to body. It wounds like people recommend one from frame to body as well?? But I felt as if it was all grounded sufficiently, so somebody let me know if I should really add that final one.

Months and months ago, after getting the engine all totally together I remember spending a thorough amount of time trying to not mess up and get my initial timing setup pretty decently, so once I double checked everything I could, I got my fire extinguisher ready, and had a friend on standby with me I went ahead and hit the key to the ignition on.. No explosion so far... so once I double checked a couple things and verified that I was getting fuel and spark we went ahead and tried to crank it

Now you can tell when an engine is trying to fire up, and this thing absolutely, positively sounded nothing like that. It would just crank, and backfire, and crank... Nowhere even close. I double checked a couple things and I knew about the possibility of having the distributor in 180 degrees off, so after cranking a couple times I just wanted to verify that first. I got the #1 piston to TDC then I peaked under the distributor cap and confirmed that it was pointed toward the #1 cylinder. It was.

So I put it back together, crank it a few times and of course I get the exact same. So this time I decide I'm going to pull the cap completely and go all through the initial timing set up routine again and see what the hell's going on. I pull the valve cover and confirm the #1 cylinder at TDC again, then I pull the wires off the cap and pull it off and VOILA, it was pointed at exactly 180 degrees the wrong way!

Turns out I just so happened to set it 180 degrees off in the very beginning, then when after cranking it several times and checking it again, it just so happened to still appear to be correct. Now by this third time it finally appeared to be 180 degrees off, so I pulled it, rotated it and hooked it all back up.

This time when I cranked it immediately you could tell the difference. Right away you could hear that it was chugging and trying to fire up, and from then on I was all settled and felt like I had it under control. For a minute there I was starting to get nervous and feeling so incompetent because it seemed nowhere close to running and I did't know what to do because everything seemed right... but sure enough after a few cranks and pumping the pedal a few times it was up and running like a champ. I adjusted the idle screw a little and messed with the timing light a little and it seems to be running really clean and the engine sounds super crisp. :chevy: feeling like a boss ass mastermind truck builder

Immediately after that I shut it down and proceeded to get a beat down by the braking system for the next 4 days...

but thats a story for another time lol

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Re: Kell's Two Cents - 1946 build
 

I do have some quick questions however. I still have some wiring to finalize outside of the cab for lighting and etc and I'm just waiting on some cloth wire loom + dual filament running lights. I was doing some reading and it was recommended that I electrical tape the full length of the wire before pulling it into the wire loom though, and really I don't care to do this... does anybody have thoughts on this?

Also, in the vent in the center of the dash, above the ignition and the cigarette lighter, there is a bracket that looks as if it originally held a dash light socket. I haven't found a part number for this yet and I'm curious if anybody knows if there is one or what this used to be, or how I could utilize something else to make it work. I had been looking forward to having the vent being illuminated and think it'd be cool to get this in. Might have to go with an LED strip or something if I can't figure out an original

Anyways, I appreciate the input and I apologize for the long-winded entries over here. More updates to come, thanks for checking it out

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Re: Kell's Two Cents - 1946 build
 

the vent in the dash isnt a vent, its open like that for a map light that goes in the bracket you are describing, there was a switch under the dash to turn it on. it was for illuminating the choke and throttle bowden cables as well as the ash tray, or just for reading a map.

I wired a dash light in mine that turns on with the rest of the gauge lights so its on all the time with the headlights, but dimmer than it would have been originally, because I put my HVAC controls there and they arent backlit. the bracket you are missing is just a light box that keeps the light from scattering anywhere but straight down, I think I have one out of a dash already and if I do I will snap a picture, I didnt use it on mine because its a dim little dash bulb.

the zip tied wiring looks great, very clean. look up how to do aircraft lacing on youtube, you will save money and time if you ever do it again with the nylon string, I used to do it as an aircraft tech a million years ago.


very very clean work!

Re: Kell's Two Cents - 1946 build
 

thanks dude yeah the bracket that is imaged is mine, I have that part. We tacked it onto the dash when I had some dash work done, but I have been looking around for a little self grounding socket and haven't found a part number. I figure I can find some generic one to work, I just haven't begun looking down that path yet so I have nothing figured out so far

Re: Kell's Two Cents - 1946 build
 

wiring looks great. much easier to keep things clean with small amount of circuits. I usually opt for 21 circuits bc its nice to have the options for down the road. but... so much more to handle. Wiring is labor intensive, even though it doesn't seem like it would be.

I use 0/2 welding wire and press the ends on in a vise. not sure if its cheaper than what you got or not. NEVER heard of electrical tape on wires bf loom.

One word of advise I learned, on bullet style connectors even if you use heat shrink on them, they can get corrosion if they are exposed to elements. I now opt for weather packs. Its a bit more tricky to crimp them right and costs go up a a bit, but its much nicer to just unhook a 4 wire weatherpack and you know it will never leak.

Re: Kell's Two Cents - 1946 build
 

I think this is it

http://www.ebay.com/itm/OLD-DASH-PAN...T/142454929907

Re: Kell's Two Cents - 1946 build
 

Hey that comes out super clean, thanks for being that up that's slick. Would you also do that before pulling on wire loom? Or do people just leave the wire loose within the loom?

I swear I over complicate things so much, after that link you sent a quick search for "single contact socket" brings up part numbers from both summit and American Autowire. I really appreciate that attentiveness Joe thanks for the help

Re: Kell's Two Cents - 1946 build
 

alright so I got a full day on the truck like I was hoping and made all the progress I was hoping to make. I want to step back real quick and update on the brakes and how they were giving me so much trouble. Now that I have experience in this area I feel I could go back in time and knock out everything I needed to do to get them bled and done in a day. I think it took all the time that it did because I wasn't even aware how to approach the situation with a thorough, systematic way in order to get them done right the first time. I think it's made all so worse just cause you're dealing with brake fluid and getting that dripping all over the place

Anyways, here we go

Right off the bat I needed to change the location of the remote reservoir fill. I always find myself trying to be slick, thinking I'm being smart then finding that it's really more of a headache. I mounted it on the back wall of the under seat area, where with the seat on I couldn't even get a funnel to it. I went ahead and moved it near the front on the side and got it so I could fill it quite easily.

Progressive Automotive offers to make you a brake linkage, all you gotta do is call in with your dimensions and they'll send one out to you. My booster is placed so far back that when I saw the dinky thing they sent me I went ahead a cut a new one out of solid 3/4" stock and went with that instead.

So at this point I was ready for day one of bleeding the brakes. We went old school with it and had a buddy over pumping the brakes for like an hour straight and us not getting anything out. I was starting with the farthest wheel, so I'm in the rear and just not getting anything... I go ahead and send him off. The fronts seemed to at least be getting fluid in the lines, though those didn't seem to be bleeding either. Even with no pressure on the line I found a leak on the front left line coming off of the front distribution block. Now this is another situation where I thought I was being slick and tucked the distribution block all funky in the frame... It made it a b**ch to get to and now I know that especially on brake lines, or any type of plumbing for that matter, try to keep the connections in easily accessible locations... Being as that my cheapo flare tool was probably the suspect, I went down to the autoparts store and picked up a pre-flared line that happened to be the perfect size and got it switched out.

So now day 2 I realized I should really try more aggressive means, and I went and picked up a harbor freight vacuum bleeder. With this I was getting somewhere. The fronts seemed to be getting fluid through but I was getting absolutely nothing but air out the backs. I sat doing it for an extended time just thinking it was coming slowly but surely, however it never did... I began having concerns about my rear brake cylinders, as I had changed the bleeders on them but not the actual cylinders. They were old and original, so if something were wrong I figured that could be a cause of a bunch of air getting through.

Not sure if they were ever actually an issue, but as a precautionary measure I went ahead and switched those. On the third day I added teflon tape to the bleeders as to try to cut down on the air getting pulled in through the threads. This seemed to help ALOT and by now I was finally getting some pedal inside the cab. Around this time however I began realizing that I had been skipping the steps of double checking the gap between the booster and cylinder and also bench bleeding the cylinder. I figured these were adding to my soft pedal woes.

I pulled the cylinder, realized my huge gap, closed it up and bench bled the cylinder. Put it all back together and was finally actually getting decent pedal.

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Re: Kell's Two Cents - 1946 build
 

I had set the gap at about a 1/4", but later found something call the spec for .020" So today I pulled everything again to reset the gap. Got some photos this time, bench bled the cylinder again and got it all back together. Vacuum bled everything and was getting solid streams of fluid out of each bleeder. Brake pedal was feeling really good so I went on and moved to the other things I had going on to get the truck up and on the street

To answer Paintman's question, looks like a 1" cylinder. I had to extend the bolt an 1 1/16" beyond the face of the booster to close up the gap. With the truck running this evening the brakes seem somewhat non responsive for the first 1/4 of the pedal, then they proceed to be very strong beyond that. Idk if that sounds similar to Paintman's issue but with them working so well I'm gonna let them be for the moment

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Re: Kell's Two Cents - 1946 build
 

Now for some other stuff I had going on

My gauges all seemed to be reading funky and/or not reading at all. I had ran them all in series and I had even thought about the fact that if even one gauge messed up that it was going to mess up the rest of them, but I swear sometimes I'm too positive and I just figured I was going to wire it all correctly and there weren't going to be any issues.. Of course I didn't sit down and do the Ohm's law math and figure out what the result of running everything like that was gonna be, but when I began doing some troubleshooting I knew I needed to switch everything to parallel before I started anything. So this was another example of me being slick and it backfiring

But actually running everything in parallel seemed to fix it all. In series I must have been getting too much drop for anything to be working right. I seem to be getting about 30 psi oil pressure at idle. The only thing not reading right was the water temp, so I needed to get it up to operating temp to actually see about that one

I went ahead and fired up the truck and was filling up the trans fluid while it was idling and getting up to temp. Started right up today and seems to be running well.. I might still be idling a little high but without a tach idk.. I might end up adding a tach on the column for this

So basically the water temp gauge would be at zero, then later would be fully tacked out. It was months ago when I had installed the temp switch for the fan and the temp sender for the gauge, so apparently I had forgotten which one was which lol I had the gauge hooked up to the switch, so when it reached operating temp and switched on, it'd ground out the circuit and max out the gauge. I switched the wires between the two and then all my gauges seemed to be working correctly.

I ordered a speedometer cable from Bowtie Bits, so that thing showed up. My fan seems to run pretty much all the time once it gets up to operating temp, so idk that might just be how it's gonna be.. I went ahead and put everything back together, installed the inner fenders, steering, topped off steering fluid, and double checked everything I could.

One thing to mention is that the truck is highly likely a '41 and with that it had the '41 inner fender supports that bolt to the frame. I wanted to run the '46 supports that bolt to the cab however, so a while back I had grabbed a set at the old man's junk yard and got them drilled and bolted onto the cab. I had modified the inner fender to pass my steering through (sorry Paintman) and in fact on the passenger side I am still running an inner fender that is meant for a '41, and is slightly modified to hit the new 46 supports.

I tried a few test runs while the rear tires were in the air, then I set it on the ground and inched down the street on it's first maiden voyage

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Re: Kell's Two Cents - 1946 build
 

Everything fighting you is kinda the ropes alot of times. It can be daunting but it makes you truly understand things. I had problems with no fluid to rear cylinders on my first build, the MC needed bench bled again. I had problems with my clutch, pedal was bottoming out on floor. I spent countless hours on each, but figured them out.

Truck looks great, can't wait to see some video.

Re: Kell's Two Cents - 1946 build
 

Do you have a master cylinder for a power brake booster?

Re: Kell's Two Cents - 1946 build
 

Yeah I kinda figure as much that nows the time I'll really be getting to work all the kinks out. Guys like you and Joe are so good and so quick because you've already done it so many times and have learned

Know what I'm not exactly sure.. they came together so I had assumed that they would be right for each other but really I wouldn't know. How could I got about checking on that?

Re: Kell's Two Cents - 1946 build
 

Hey any of you guys running tanks under the beds in your truck, how/where are you running the breather vent?

Re: Kell's Two Cents - 1946 build
 

I'm running a mustang tank under the bed. I bought a neck with a built in vent from tanks inc., I think or maybe it was fillerneck.com. problem is the tank sits up so high in the frame there is very little room between the tank and the bed wood and I had to cut the vent tube down a bit. I also leave my gas cap slightly loose to let her breath. I'm still trying to figure out what is wrong with my fuel guage as I have a constant empty problem. For now i am just using the stick method to check my fuel level because I don't want to pull my dash apart.:lol:

It's amazing how many people have issues with the gap between the booster and the MC You would think they would set the proper gap at the factory when it is assembled. I still have the same problem as you. I have zero pedal for the first 1-2" then I get a good pedal. It may be because I have a small leak at the rear residual valve. When I address that issue I think I am going to try an 1-1/4 MC.

Re: Kell's Two Cents - 1946 build
 

What does your fill neck look like? I really think I'm over thinking this now... mine looks like this, plus the breather vent/valve. I just don't know where a sleek, tucked away spot to mount it is gonna be and have to take into consideration not having dips where gas could get caught into the line

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Re: Kell's Two Cents - 1946 build
 

well folks, I've been on a real hot job this week, and glad to say I finally got it all knocked out. I kept saying that once I'm up and running then I will really be getting to work the kinks out, and so far that is holding true, so this all good. I trouble shot it all Monday, then only had from about 6 PM after work each day to get a couple hours in, but finally got a full day on the truck today and am back up and solid

So basically I'd have the truck running and idling and everything would be looking good, sounding good. Then I'd run the truck down the block and I'd come back dripping just a ton of oil... I came to find out that at idle there wasn't enough oil pressure to cause any issues, but soon as I'm up in RPM's down the street it would be enough pressure to have oil coming out somewhere in the rear of the engine.

First I confirmed it wasn't the oil pressure sender or the oil pressure switch. It wasn't, but I eventually had to pull the pressure switch because it was blocking my view of where it was actually coming from. I had it in the oil port on the top of the block at the back of the intake manifold, and replaced it with a 1/8" brass plug.

From there I was able to clearly see an area where oil was seeping right out between the intake manifold and the block. I pulled it all apart to have a look and pretty quickly was able to see what was going on. On the front and the back strips you create your own gasket with RTV, and it's a shame cause somehow right in this one area I must not have put it on thick enough and I could see on either side that the seal wasn't getting made

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Re: Kell's Two Cents - 1946 build
 

Changing out an intake manifold is no big deal, right... but no, it keeps going. I saw this little area of coolant down in the engine area and started being concerned about coolant crossing over and getting into the oil. I figured it was just residual coolant from the intake manifold/block that had fallen down in there, but I figured I'd just drain my oil and see what it was looking like

Sure enough it was milky, and after a while of letting the pan settle out you could tell that the coolant had separated itself and was sitting in a fine layer on top of the oil.

Now, I have to be fully transparent here and own up to what mistakes I had made when initially building my top end... I was a bit hasty at the time for sure, I checked the photo dates during that time and it was over a year and a half ago that I had initially done it.

But I remember not cleaning off any of the bolt threads, and I remember straight up dipping the bolts in oil then bolting the heads down. Big mistake. At this point I'm surprised I wasn't leaking blinker fluid as well.. pretty much the only thing I did right was the torque spec and sequence

Now if it were only coolant in the oil, I would have considered trying to change and add sealant to each bolt one at a time. But since I had the intake off already, I in a way felt a responsibility to take it all apart and attempt to do it properly.

So this time I actually chased all the threads, including the ones on the block, I cleaned up all the mating surfaces, got new gaskets and grabbed some teflon sealant. I drained all the coolant from the block and got the rest of it torn down one evening after work.

I had it all back together Friday and just let it sit til I could get back over there Sunday to do all the final reassembly stuff and fill all the fluids up again. I ran it for a while today and so far so good! A few trips up the block and back and so far not a drop. As far as coolant in the oil goes though, I'm gonna run it again tomorrow and then go ahead and change the oil again this week and see how it's looking. Even if it's good to go Im hoping this oil change will help get any of the extra moisture out that had gotten in there initially. And if the oil is milky again then, well... idk what to do so pray for me

Also, one minor fix that I took care of all at the same time was that the tensioner pulley was too close to the radiator fan. I had noticed it before but being as it wasn't a spinning part I paid it little mind, but I didn't consider the fact that the tensioner is spring loaded, so once the engine was running it would move just enough and create like a tapping noise, bumping on the fan housing. I had mounted the fan dead center on the shroud so while I had everything apart I went ahead and pulled the shroud and shifted the fan up and to the right and drilled new holes. Plenty of clearance now

I tried to clean up my spark plug wires a bit too by running them on the under side of the headers, but really they're not quite long enough on the passenger side to do it. Looks a little better though, I'll take what I can

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Re: Kell's Two Cents - 1946 build
 

man I shoot myself in the foot so much its a wonder I can walk. I am sending you a 1700 mile shoulder pat brother