Re: Build that 71 402 already
 

Other than some details this is going NOWHERE. Don't mind the break, but come on. I checked on a different powder place and they won't work. The preferred PC shop is backed up "3-4 weeks" still:lol:, Painter is backed up too. No frame and no oil pan, can't very well build a truck. Real reason I posted is I didn't want to search for these again. Safe to say the transmissions were silver etc., but still some nice details.

Original engine bays:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=472154
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=367725&page=2

Incidentally, the intake manifold bolt business above, I ended up with NOS "M" bolts instead. I think there are more available on Ebay, nice bolts for a nice price. They have a regular recessed hex, not round like the OLD "M" bolts, but at least they'll all match. Anyone know if the original intake bolts were painted or were they just black phosphate? In other terms, were the blocks painted with the intake manifolds on?

Re: Build that 71 402 already
 

Engine painted with the intake manifold and its bolts in place.

Re: Build that 71 402 already
 

I imagine so Deadhead, thank you. Not sure if I'm painting the new bolts, but I probably will. Pretty simple with a brush and nice affect too (POR15).

Good news today. I called the powder coating place and good timing. They have a break and the frame etc. goes in tomorrow. About time I start building this thing huh? Things are about to get REAL expensive:waah:

Re: Build that 71 402 already
 

That doesn't bother me a bit. Let's roll. :lol:

Re: Build that 71 402 already
 

:lol::lol: Roll is right. Dropped the parts off then visited Hot August for a hint of what's there. A ton of amazing cars and trucks. Quite a few 67-72 Chevy P/U, people like them a lot, high show or not. Some decent originals, and a NICE 67 SWB mod. Sorry no pics, I need a smart phone (gulp). I can't quite taste it yet. 2020 or I quit;)

Re: Build that 71 402 already
 

Had the frame, cross members, A/C brackets and some other powder coated for the first run. $1150, and well worth it. Better than new. Along with some other stamps, until today I didn't realize they punched two serial numbers into the frame.

Dropped the axle off for the once over too. They're setting me up with a 1-piece shaft.

Re: Build that 71 402 already
 

I forgot to ask the powder coat to spare the axle cover surface, but COME ON, the place has been in business since forever. At least they sealed up the threads.

I used a 40ish grit pad and paint stripper wheel on a drill. I was lost how to hit the area around the "breather"? ports, but ended up doing it with paint remover, very carefully. Did the job, came out nice.

If that's a 9-71 date code on that gear, which I imagine it is, then the original owner replaced the gears. He likeed towing and that. Drives nice IMO, so I left as is. I must have $700 into an axle I hadn't originally planned for HA! - she's a money pit. An axle shop freshened it up.

Re: Build that 71 402 already
 

Looking good as always...hope this project hasn't driven you to smoking :smoke:

Re: Build that 71 402 already
 

Ha, thanks, no I quit :smoke: If only I can get my son here to move the frame and install the engine cross member. Don't want to scratch things up;) The new game is hurry up and wait, though there's always something to do. Think I rec'd all the rear suspension pending review.

Here's something you don't see everyday.

Re: Build that 71 402 already
 

I like the black zinc with the powder coat. The original bolts were in a good way, as were the unique washers, so I just replaced the nuts and lock washers. Searching for hardware and editing my manual is no fun. Finishing something is.

New ECE rear suspension received, but bolts pending, and turns out I need the original upper and lower U-bolt plates. I thought they were replaceable, maybe they are, but word is use what you have if good. New drop spindles holding up the front, because they come unfinished. Money pit.

Tony screwed up. I can't get the painter to finish my oil pan much less a ton of parts that I've yet brought him for black satin. I guess that's what happens when he's the best and family. .............Anyway I'd like the A/C bracket to intake manifold done so I can finish the engine, so I jumped the gun and had my A/C brackets powder coated.

Don't do that:lol: I read 200 degrees or look for another finish. Can't say what the surface temperature is on a BBC, but bet your (*^* the exhaust manifolds are hotter, and one bracket connects to the exhaust manifold. If that were it fine, but I suspect a cast iron intake and block are in the neighborhood of 200 degrees ??? So I believe I'm removing powder coat from all my A/C brackets:sumo:..........

At least nothing else was done near the block. False assumption on my part PC would withstand heat. Input welcome.

Re: Build that 71 402 already
 

Interesting. What did they coat them with from the factory? Nothing?

Re: Build that 71 402 already
 

Couldn't tell you.

Re: Build that 71 402 already
 

I take it back, I suspect everything was painted satin black with ??? The top bracket appears to be the exception, which may have just been a phosphate coating.

Here are my A/C brackets. They sat in a box for approaching 25 years, and I know they were never refinished. I mounted them for a dry run.

Re: Build that 71 402 already
 

After talking to a guy with great experience, "we" decided to leave the powder coat on the A/C brackets and timing plate. Exception being the bracket on the exhaust manifold. Time will tell, but for now I'm relieved. Means I can install the timing chain cover, harmonic and intake. Still don't have my oil pan:metal:

Re: Build that 71 402 already
 

Just simple this and that's on my truck of late...... I'm trying to wrap up a landscape job.

Finally installed my harmonic and timing cover. Oil pan due any day:metal: now, and my rear suspension is pending me for powder coat. So yeah, awfully short on assembly so far.

I picked up new shackles for the rear leaf springs. The shackles were a bit scraped up, so I used Eastwood's "phosphate paint" and etch primer I picked up for the bench seat brackets.

If it holds up I'll be happy as a clam. It's very close to phosphate coating, even for the trained eye. Nearly feels like phosphate. Traces of "bling" as well, but the pics didn't pick it up.

On a side, somehow I thought the parts on these trucks were primarily Manganese phosphate. That's wrong. Per this website, they're Zinc phosphate. http://429mustangcougarinfo.50megs.com/new_page_26.htm

I should probably check this stuff out before I go painting:lol: Per this website, zinc phosphate makes for a nice under surface for powder coat. Strikes me that would apply to paints as well. Time will tell. https://www.pfonline.com/articles/zi...s-zinc-plating

The first website reads zinc phosphate is phosphate and oil ON TOP of a zinc base plating. Yet the second website reads zinc plating is more resistant to corrosion than zinc phosphate;) Hmmmmmmmmmmmm.

Re: Build that 71 402 already
 

Making some headway and learning a lot.

U-bolt torque? Kind of a mystery, too many variables. Nearest I can tell from reading the MAX. is 93-100 ft. lbs. for grade 8 9/16" U-bolts with saddles and plates. Best to use oil, or better yet anti-seize. I'm at 75 lbs., it feels like I'll be good @ 78-85.

Figure I got an oil pan yet? I love the guy, he's family, but I better flash some motivational cash, and he runs spensive. It's the price he charges on reputation, honest for real. He's great, but if you want your stuff done bring cash, and he's right on it.......................I only say that because he may end up finishing body/paint. Without asking, he's motivated by 18-20K. That's with a dry run and the moldings assembled, but the bed is 95% already done, and the rest is a solid foundation.

Oh well:chevy: Be nice to finish in two years.

Re: Build that 71 402 already
 

Awesome build!!

Re: Build that 71 402 already
 

Thanks DOS.

Learning a lot. I've only installed one side of brake tube past, at the master cyl. Clearly, the reason a nut won't tighten is the flange isn't dead nuts over the nipple.

If you ask me, all ends but one required some bending, exception being to the LH wheel cyl. I don't have a bender less a pair of pliers, so for the most part I bent them by hand while they were positioned in the retainers. Got the axle shafts installed too. Close to running out of things to do pending an engine pan, rebuilt e-brake cables and transmission rebuild, but there always seems to be something to do.

Re: Build that 71 402 already
 

Well I've done my first brake job. Few things I've learned. 1. Don't buy Dorman's spring kit it's junk. The caps don't lock onto the springs and their front shoe return springs are wrong, so I used my old ones. I didn't have to replace the drum shoes, or anything else rear brakes. Truth is, I like the shoes I pulled off better;)

I also learned I'll NEVER spray bomb my axle hubs again. Thought I did everything right, but the paint chips too easily. No big, let em chip. They were a gloss finish, but as you can see I didn't like the sheen:chevy:

I took the notes below, which come from various sources of information. But for a quick down and dirty, this guy's web page helped me a BUNCH. It's one thing to take them off, it was another to install them. http://www.pbase.com/nufsed/drumbrake

_________________________________________________________________________________________________

Rear Brakes and Parking Brake Lever

• The wheel cylinders are not interchangeable. Insert the wheel cylinder into the hole in the backing plate. The fitting for the brake tube nut faces the rear, and the bleeder is on top. NOTE: The stamps on the cylinders removed from this truck were (LH is 7565 6), (RH is 7565 1). In a mounted position, the "Made in USA" stamp on these is upside down.

• The wheel cylinder mounts onto the backing plate using two 3/8" flange hex screws with integrated star washers. The screw threads are 5/16-18 x 1/2. NOTE: The screws are stamped "B&H".

Rear Brakes & Parking Brakes Bench Assembly

• Lubricate the exterior of the rear parking brake cables with silicone.

• The brake shoes are not interchangeable front to back. The rear brake shoe has more brake pad coverage than the front brake shoe. The top of the shoes have a half circle to form around the anchor shaft.

• The parking brake levers are not interchangeable. The slot in the lever for the strut faces forward. The clevis pin on the parking brake lever inserts through the back of the rear shoe using the top hole in the shoe. Order of assembly from the inside out: Clevis pin on parking brake lever > anti-rattle wave washer (domed portion faces the lever (I think) > rear shoe > E-clip. NOTES: Brake grease can be used to lubricate the contact areas where the clevis pin attaches to the brake shoe.

• The brakes adjusters are not interchangeable. The caps pull off to reveal the correct adjuster (stamped L or R). A thin washer fits between the adjuster gear and cap. The brake adjusters have prongs on each end to secure the adjusters between the bottoms of each shoe. The prongs on the cap side of adjuster fits onto the rear shoe. NOTES: Brake grease is an option to lubricate the cap shaft and threads. Facing the axle hub turn the brake adjuster gear (“star”) toward you to expand the brake shoes adding pressure against brake drum.

• The brake shoes link spring is 3.1/16" long from one end of the hook to the other. The spring attaches to the bottom hole of each shoe. The longest hook inserts through the back of the rear shoe, and the shortest hook inserts through the face of the front shoe. The spring must avoid contact with the brake adjuster gear.

Rear Brakes & Parking Brakes Wheel Assembly

• Lightly lubricate the six contact points on the backing plate where the shoes meet the plate. Anti-seize is an option. Do not get grease on the brake pads.

• Insert the push rods into the brake cylinder. The prongs on the push rods position vertically so the shoes insert into the prongs. The top of the shoes will fit onto the base of the anchor. Check these fittings as the brakes are assembled.

• Insert the parking brake cable onto the hook on the bottom of the parking brake lever. The cable fits onto the hook between the cable spring and cable nut. Place the shoes onto backing plate.

• The front shoe hold-down spring is 1.1/2" long and more narrow on one end. This spring is generally green. Insert the hold-down cap into the rear hold-down spring. Insert the hold-down pin through the backing plate and brake shoe. Place a flat washer between the spring and backing plate. Push the spring in and twist the cap over the pin to lock. The cap is indented to secure the prongs on the pin end.

• The pivots are not interchangeable, one is stamped “R” the other “L”. The pivot has three hooks. One hook inserts through the back of the brake adjuster lever. The pivot only hooks on one way; the longest hook will be on top and facing rear. The brake adjuster levers are not interchangeable. The contact point on the lever is placed onto the face of the rear shoe. The hole in the lever lines up to the hole in the rear shoe located third from the bottom. NOTE: You can use brake grease to lubricate the contact points for the pivot and brake adjuster lever.

• Insert the rear shoe hold down funnel washer into the hole on the face of the brake adjuster lever.

• The rear shoe hold-down spring is 1.1/16" long. This spring is generally light blue. Install the pin and spring the same as that for the front shoe; however the rear shoe uses the funnel washer instead of a flat washer.

• The strut plate has two prongs on each end. The longest prongs face forward. The rear prongs are two different widths. Position the strut plate so the widest rear prong faces the backing plate. The orientation must allow clearance for the adjuster link.

o A 1.1/4” strut spring slides onto the front prongs on the strut. There’s a “handle” on one end of this spring. Insert the handle end of the spring onto the strut with the handle positioned up nearest the brake cylinder. The spring’s handle contacts the face of the front shoe. The strut plate inserts between the slot in the parking brake lever and the front shoe.

• The guide plate fits onto the anchor nearly making contact with the top face of the brake shoes. If it's supposed to make contact with the shoes I'm all ears. See third image

• The brake adjuster lever return spring is 1" long. Place this spring onto the tab on the brake adjuster lever. The spring fits between the lever and the rear brake shoe.

• The brake adjuster links are not interchangeable. The bend in the link must clear the brake cylinder. The "eye" portion of the adjuster link fits onto the anchor with the hook on the top end positioned to the rear and facing out. The other end hooks onto the top hook on the pivot.

• The adjuster lever override spring is 3.1/4" inches long from one end of the hook to the other. The spring’s "Z" hook inserts into the hole on the face of the adjuster lever. The other end attaches to the pivot’s rear hook. The hook attaches onto the pivot from underneath on the passenger side, and from above on the driver’s side. NOTE: Be sure the “Z” end on the spring correctly oriented. The length of the spring’s coils should be flush or nearly flush against face of the adjuster lever. This spring is tuff, though a flathead screwdriver works.

• The front return spring is 5.1/8” long from one end of the hook to the other. These springs are generally gray. The spring’s “L” hook inserts into the hole on the face of the front shoe above the strut. The longer end hooks onto the anchor placed outside of the adjuster link. The spring hooks onto the anchor from underneath on the passenger side, and from above on the driver’s side.

• The rear return spring is 3.3/4" long from end of the hook to the other. These springs are generally black. The shortest hook inserts into the hole on the face of the rear shoe above the pivot, and the longest one hooks onto the hook on top of the adjuster link. The spring hooks onto the adjuster link from above on the passenger side, and from below on the driver’s side.

Brake drums and brakes adjustment: Clean the inside of new drums to remove the oil that was applied for rust prevention. The brake drum seats over the axle hub. As a starting point, adjust the brakes so the drums move with slight resistance. The brakes are self-adjusting, which occurs when the parking brake is applied or the brakes are applied when traveling in reverse.

Re: Build that 71 402 already
 

Some things are worth the wait.

Re: Build that 71 402 already
 

Few things I've learned recently.......

OIL PAN BOLTS: The OER "correct" oil pan replacement bolts don't work with a one piece gasket. The timing chain cover bolts are a 1/16" shorter than original, not that they'd work anyway. My old set was a near match, I prefer a match, so I ordered ARP bolts. At least they're a nice black and a better bolt too. Just what I needed, three sets of oil pan bolts:lol:

LOWER BALL JOINTS: I had a suspension house press my lower ball joints in. They said it's cleaner than DYI, and they did a great job, not a mark in the powder coat. They charged for it too, $65, but I'd do it again. Some things I prefer leave to the pros.

CONTROL ARMS: The suspension place says to torque the bushings to spec. unweighted. I saw a video that says differently, but board expertise welcome.

I asked them why one of my upper control arms doesn't move as freely as the other. He says he doesn't know, but they see it all the time and guessed it's the LH side that moves more freely.

I can say my LH control arm fits perfectly into the control arm studs and bracket as well.............IMO there's an engineering or production flaw that concerns the RH studs and/or bracket. But it works anyway, so GM let it slide.

I'll install the lowers tomorrow.

Re: Build that 71 402 already
 

Nice build with good notes. Subscribed!

Re: Build that 71 402 already
 

This is awesome. It's more a guide. For example, he doesn't differentiate 9/16" Vs 1/2", as in U-bolts. 85 ft. lb. seems pretty close regardless. His control arm bushings are a little high, but his might be original parts, Moog calls for less. http://www.chuckschevytruckpages.com...que_specs.html

Found this here as well: Nice. Amazing how torque varies so much. Too many variables. They're quoting 7-16" and 9/16" U-bolts I bet.

For what it's worth, which isn't a lot, there's SO MANY suggestions how to torque the control arm U-bolt nuts. I read one place 75 ft. lbs for a 9/16" U-bolt, and that's where I ended up. I used anti-seize.

Re: Build that 71 402 already
 

While there's so much information out there, strikes me there's not much of a process on installing control arms. It could be so obvious I'm missing it. Here's what I did, for original suspension only. Input welcome, I'm new at this.

I installed the bushings with an even coat of grease. I hit the threads, the sleeve and the seal. I have NO IDEA if that's right and see nothing about using grease. But I do see where major auto chain says use dish liquid:metal:

I made sure the bushings would install all the way into the control arms without the shafts. That's Grumpy's suggestion, so if it's messed up it's his fault:lol:. Really, it's the right way.

I installed the bushings with the shafts mounted. Another one of Grump's suggestions. Lots of people say make sure your shaft is centered with the control arm. You don't have much choice if the shaft is already mounted. There's only what, a 16th-ish play in the control shafts front to back, and you can feel dead center on the locator post for the lower shaft. I left the shafts snug as I tightened the bushings, but it didn't seem to matter.

But you do want to tighten the bushings equally, or rather, as close as possible. I don't know if it's right, but I started counting rotations as soon as the bushing grabbed the shaft. The uppers had equal spacing from the bushing nut to the control arm throughout the process. I ended up tightening one bushing a bit more on every shaft to finish, but they were close. That's likely to be expected. The bushings went on nicely.......... after a few attempt's;)

The lowers worked out a pinch different, because there was not equal spacing to thread the control arm after one rotation. Perhaps because I started counting rotations on the shaft. No matter what I did the bushings wouldn't measure up. So I loosened one bushing and tightened the other a pinch equally, measured, and remarked the bushings.

The bushings should go in evenly without much torque required. If one is a little tuff back off a half turn or so, and come at it again. If one nearly seizes then start over again. The bushings will tell you if it's right or wrong after having benched it.

There's a ton of info. on where to torque 9/16" U-bolt nuts. I read one place 75 ft. lbs. on a C-10. That's where I ended up. I used anti-seize. Don't know if it's right, but that was a tough 75 pounds.

Apparently it's normal for a control arm, especially an upper arm to be more stiff than the other. Word is what they shouldn't do is tense up in one position or be very stiff. Both my LH arms move best, they budge with a finger. Maybe it's because I always do the RH first:lol: I'm kidding (hopefully).

And yeah, it really is a pickle trying to grease new parts through a zerk fitting, they're about locked down shut. Apparently they'll loosen up as things settle.

Re: Build that 71 402 already
 

Got my oil pump and pan installed. Here's three clips you don't see every day. I'm not 100% sure the correct pan bolts are being used, but it's the best info. I've got. Hopefully I don't have to relocate, but I doubt I will. There's very little information on these, especially a BBC.

The transmission lines retainer seems pretty rare, and no it's not a battery cable clip. I pulled it approaching 30 years ago, just happened to keep it.

The original pan is 8", and I put the pick-up at 7.7/10", which leaves a happy medium between 1/4" and 3/8" from the bottom of the pan. Buddy of mine ran a bead around the pickup and pump.

Yeah the pan and block are off a shade. The painter is the best, but two completely set of situations and metals. I brushed the block with three coats of engine enamel, while he "matched" the color, primer'd and sprayed with automotive paint, and topped that with a clear coat. He did the valve covers as well, so they'll vary too. I'll get used to it. Looking forward to the day the engine compartment is done.

There doesn't seem to be much info. how to seal a one piece oil pan gasket. This is how I did it. Input always welcome.

Re: Build that 71 402 already
 

Call me crazy, but I don't get the same shade variance affect when it's right side up, and the valve covers were sprayed with the pan.

Re: Build that 71 402 already
 

I don't see much of a lines thread out there, and happy to say I'm basically done installing brake, fuel and vent lines. Other than a few tubes that had to be straighten, I bent what I needed to by hand. Sometimes it smarts too, but it works.

The replacements are In-Line Tubes. The vent and fuel tubes are original, as are the bolts and retainers.

No pics of the front brake hoses. The ones currently installed are temporary, because like every other reproduction I've found, the fittings for the brackets are wrong. Sometimes they're close, and the same brands offer one that's close to fitting, and another that's not so close. Even though the brackets are the same. Other than that seven images from the RH front to anticipated combination valve.

Re: Build that 71 402 already
 

Last three

Re: Build that 71 402 already
 

Curious... Could you post a SPID of what your truck actually is? I think I put it together by looking through thread, be great to know the details. This is a completely stock restoration, yes?

Great thread BTW!

Steve weim55 Colorado

Re: Build that 71 402 already
 

Thanks, yeah it's an "original" build. For the most part exceptions will be HEI, probably an electric choke, and losing the voltage regulator & TCS. Dropping it 4/2.5.

The truck had a step bumper and camper mirrors, but will have sport instead. SPID is below.

_______________________________________________________________________________________________
Other than that I installed the intake today with my boy's help, and boardmember help too.

Applied a very thin coat of Permatex on the head-side water ports, and a thin coat on the front and back of the manifold. And of course a 1/4" bead of sealant on front and back of the block.

We installed two studs on one head for alignment. Unless someone knows better you can only do this on one head because of the bolt angle. One was enough though, we installed two bolts to line-up the other side before completely dropping the intake.


"Correct" torque varies by source anywhere from 25-35 ft. lbs. Happy medium is 30 ft. lbs. and it felt right. Yeah, I have some touch-up paint to do, I didn't take the time to figure it out beforehand, so doing it the hard way.

I tried installing the intake with the engine hoist, but the hoist won't center over the engine because the legs on the engine stand prevent it. That was an issue when we pulled the block, but we made it work. Hopefully it won't be an issue when we install the block and transmission, which looks like that's on come Monday.

"Wish" me luck. Any tips tips on how to pull a block off an engine stand appreciated, because like I say, the hoist won't center because the engine stand is in the way. I may have to grease up sleeve on the stand and slide the mount off the stand with the engine. I am using a load equalizer.

Re: Build that 71 402 already
 

Is the Custom Comfort option = Custom Deluxe? Factory carpet at that level?Planning on the original paint colors? Yours is the first truck I've ever seen with a factory installed step bumper. What does that look like, are they all the same for that year?

Steve weim55 Colorado

Re: Build that 71 402 already
 

I believe Z62 is added chrome bling, such as on the interior knobs and dome lamp. It has stainless trim around the windows, but if I recall, those are standard on Custom Deluxe.

I no longer have the step bumper. Not sure if they're all identical, but what's on my C20 might be the same. Funny you should mention it, the SPID for my C20 doesn't show a bumper. I wonder if the variance has something to do with medium Vs light duty trucks?

Re: Build that 71 402 already
 

Got her in. That's a lot of work man, I'm tired. Lots of board suggestions and research. This is what we did.

Torqued the flex plate to crank to 65 Ft. lbs. and 1-2 drops blue thread locker. Bolts are grade 8, include start washer. I had to drill out two holes on the plate a pinch because the replacement is a hair off.

Torqued the bell housing to block to 35 ft. pounds. We used a little anti-seize, I'm a little weary of stripping out the engine block, I've already seen what a stripped motor mount bolt hole looks like. We used two studs to line things up. Very cool set of bolts, the originals are nice, same with the torque converter bolts.

Torqued the flex plate to the converter to 35 lbs. and 1-2 drops blue thread locker. I've read some variances on the torque, anywhere from 35-45 ft. pounds. 35 ft. pounds felt nice, though I may have been able to hit 45. I believe 45 lbs. is for grade 8. The original bolts are 5.

I like energy suspensions transmission mount and Classic Heartbeat's motor mounts a lot. All I can say about engine mounts is if it's set just right you may hear a clank when they're dropped onto the perches. The perches have to be loose as you're installing the mounts. One big bolt was a real challenge:metal, new parts.

Only thing unexpected was the converter had slipped forward at some point. I suspect it slipped when we joined the bell housing to the block. If understand right, if the converter is set correctly and unmoved, then you have to pull them forward a pinch to contact the flex plate. I figured well, if it's already to the flex plate where else is going to go, the trans/engine are secured........The converter spins with little effort, and the bolt holes were nuts, so I think we're good. Assuming the torque converter was set right to begin with, and 99/100 it was, because I couldn't reach behind it and felt three stages, then speaking for a BBC, it's 8.5/10" from the converter nut to the front of the bell housing. EDIT: Really I don't feel great about that torque converter. Going to disconnect and double check.


Other than that lots of leverage. My boys helped, and the oldest really came through. The truck is his birthright. He's doesn't like Ochre so much...............Yet:chevy:.........................................BTW weim55, I forgot you asked. I spent decades thinking about color, it's tough. Light blue is beautiful, but not necessarily with black. Dark blue is super too, looks amazing with black. Hugger orange and black is the cat's meow IMO, but they're everywhere. All the original colors are nice, but there's something about ochre I always return to. It looks great with black, sharp interior and that, subtle color, love or hate it. What I'm changing is adding four section ochre/white and full belts.

Re: Build that 71 402 already
 

Real trivial here, but I think I figured out how the stove pipes were mounted. This is an early take off set so hasn't been messed with much. At first I thought it took a tap screw from above, but judging by the hole, looks to me it's a bolt inserted from below. A #10-32 bolt fits right in and tightens up on it's own. Add a nut and maybe a lock washer of some sort it's good to go. I have some nice rivet screws with locking star nuts. Should work well:

EDIT: WRONG, my initial thought is right. You can tell by the protrusion on top the stove this took a tap screw. I ended up with #10-32, and a Kep-nut that are black oxide. OT: I like the black oxide on replacement hardware. Nicer appearance than factory zinc phosphate, and black zinc plated too, IMO.

Re: Build that 71 402 already
 

The holes in the tin often seem enlarged. Were the OEM tin screws slotted or not?

Re: Build that 71 402 already
 

Other than cooler lines and perhaps a small detail, the lower transmission is assembled. Did these come factory with a hose and breather valve on the breather tube? I found it without anything attached. Similar my differential breather. A hose was retained onto the frame, but no sign of a breather valve. Seems both should take a valve.

Re: Build that 71 402 already
 

The valve embedded in a th350 is similar to those used to vent the differential. I don’t know th400s but a suspect there is a vent valve involved.

Re: Build that 71 402 already
 

Por-15 "Caliper paint". Literal instructions are two coats rust prevention and two coats caliper paint. Hmm, hopefully the pads fit:lol:

Pump and box rebuilt/restored professionally, wasn't cheap. Upgraded turn ratio.

Re: Build that 71 402 already
 

Very nice! I'm becoming a fan of Ochre, it was the factory color on my '71 C20 402/400 truck. My Dad bought the truck used in '73 then painted it dark brown/white two tone sometime in the late 70's because he hated the ochre. I'm torn between restoring it with the same colors my Dad painted it so that it would look like it did when I was a kid or painting it ochre like original or going red like I planned when I started tearing it down. Good thing is, I have a year or two before I'll be ready for paint.

Your build is great, love the documentation and details, thanks for sharing.

Re: Build that 71 402 already
 

Yikes, I spent hours trying to locate my brake push rod assembly. Turns out they were in a box 2 feet from my computer :lol:

Anyway, maybe I can avoid that again by storing the brake assm. in one box.
That and and I took this pic. for just in case.