Re: 1967 C-50 Dump truck Project
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Re: 1967 C-50 Dump truck Project
Here is a link to my YouTube channel with the video of the truck running. Pay no mind to the over spray on the engine mount and alternator and bracket. I'm going to change the alternator out for a 1 wire when I redo the wiring and install the HEI I picked up from a friend.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x6ZYaGWaoE8 |
Re: 1967 C-50 Dump truck Project
Looks and sounds good.
Great work on the Brake Lines by the way. |
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So I've been chipping away at the mechanical aspect of the truck. I got the brake lines done, the exhaust manifold and exhaust finished, got the heater working, and the blower motor running. One of the last things I needed/wanted to do before the first test drive was getting the wipers working.
A lot of things on this truck was farm fixed. Meaning if it could be fixed with what was around the farm,that how it was fixed. This of course is speculation.. but it sounds about right with what I have undone in the last few weeks. For instance, The wiper switch is long gone and a toggle switch was used in it's place,same goes for the heater switch. Under the dash is a rats nest of wires. Most of which are the 4 wire combo of white,brown,yellow,and green found on most standard trailer wiring. I cut most of it out and also did away with all the toggle switches. This was when I found out partly why the wiper motor wasn't working.. The mount has completely rusted away. So I will be on the hunt for a donor cab to get a wiper motor mount to weld back into place. A little refresher on the plan may be in order here. So when I started this thread I spoke about the roughness of the body. I also went out to Kansas and bought a real decent body. My current plan is to try and make this truck usable so I can use it this winter, meaning I need to get as many of the necessities fixed while I redo parts of the new body and prepare it for the swap. Which I hope will be in the spring time. In the mean time I am trying to keep the truck together but it has proven to be some what difficult when I keep running into other issues. |
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So...Plans change from time to time and the winds of change are happening now. As I was working on the truck today at lunch,It became apparent that this cab is in need of more work than it is worth. See attached photos.
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and more rot.. got to love Ohio!
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So with the said cab being so bad.. I will be moving forward with what we call the Kansas cab..only because it came from Kansas. So I got it in the shop today and started removing the unneeded parts.
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More photos. If anyone could use any of the air brake stuff let me know. I won't be throwing it away but will let it go if someone could use it. I'm going to get a few more photos later. I've got a good start on getting the cab stripped. I will be patching the floor and the bottoms of the cowl panels. More photos to come.
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Good lord is all I can think to say. Well that and I’m curious how the air brake stuff was hooked up on the inside as I’ve never seen one.
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I think you made the right call. I was building a 52 willys truck that wasn't that bad but it was bad. I had a ton of time into that, too much.
Is that a hornets nest or a bunch of goop someone smeared in there? If no one jumps on the air brake parts, I'll take them. I don't have a need for them so I'll wait and see if anyone actually needs them. |
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It comes at a bad time as I am trying to finalize some suspension and chassis stuff so I can start marketing the products. That's how it goes. If no one wants the air brake parts I'll keep you in mind. I kinda want to mess with them a little just to see how it works compared to my 379 peterbilt. here is the spring plate number. I'm not sure if it'll work for you but when you call the spring shop it may help. |
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Here is a few more of the Kansas cab stripped. I believe I want to add A/C to this truck. That means I need to call Vintage Air and order a kit. I have already talked to them several times about this project and I can order pieces separately. I would only need the under dash unit for now so I could move forward with finishing the fire wall. I know in the basic C/10 kit they use a composite firewall cover. I would want to weld the firewall instead of using a cover. Now I could just got ahead and "shave" the firewall and worry about the holes later but I would rather do it now while i'm body working the cab and not have to go back later. I'm also thinking about a tilt steering column with a factory steering wheel. I've already talked to Ididit about what column would be best for this application. I'm trying to stay one step ahead on the planning.
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I do have some rust issues to fix before shes ready for the blasters. Does anyone know of a screen that will fit over the cowl area of these trucks? Seems the bottom of the cowl area collects a lot of dirt and debris. I don't want this to happen again. Over all the cab is in decent shape.
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I will need to weld up this hole. It is where the brake pedal assembly support goes.
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Thanks for the picture!
The rust on the Kansas cab vs the original is a cake walk. Are the floors pitted real bad or is it just surface rust? Either way you'll have it ready in no time vs the original. |
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Once the floors are solid I'll roll the cab on its back and have the bottom of the cab bed lined. I have heard good things about the Upol Raptor liner but I will also consult with the local Linex dealer. My next thing is do I do a hydro-boost system (I have 3 units from 79',95' and 03' trucks) I know my 292 doesn't have a power steering set up so getting juice to the booster will be/is an issue. This is where things get difficult because I'm in the build stage now instead of "just get it running" stage. Meaning,now is the time to plan my work and work my plan. It will just cost more and take more time. I don't want to go backwards so I'll probably go ahead and mount the hydro-boost and for now block off the ports for the power steering lines. Or I could add power steering pump and use it solely for the brake system. That may be a better idea. I'm still kicking around the idea of a 12 valve Cummins engine with an Eaton 6 speed. I'm rethinking the 316/3126 cat engine idea. I am really getting into the 292 and may end up using it for an old Chevy truck or something along those lines. That is still up in the air. Depends on what I find. The end go has always been to have a workable truck I can use. |
Re: 1967 C-50 Dump truck Project
I personally would suggest the square body unit, drill 2 holes in the mounting plate and bolt it up. That’s what’s on mine
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I had some time to look at the hydro boost units tonight. I was a bit off in my list of units. The 95' was supposed to be an 85' so that makes 2 square body inits and an 03'. The 03' has a flat plate with 4 studs. none of which fit any of the existing fire wall holes. The square body unit fits in 2 holes on my 71' C/10 firewall but does not fit on the Kansas cab. I will need to open up the sides of the existing holes the drill a couple more. The actual hydro boost units look similar except the mounting bracket. I like the 4 stud bracket so I'm not sure which I'll go with.
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Here is the amount of rust on the driver side rocker. Floor is pitted but very solid. I think I may just cut the top portion of the rocker instead of the whole thing.
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Can you replace the rocker with out cutting out the cab corner? The driver side cab corner is solid with zero rust. I'd hate to cut it out.
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I also pulled out the Ididit column I have for my 56' chevy truck to see how it would fit. This column is 30" I think a 32'' or a 34'' would fit better. I hope the steering wheel has the same spline count and diameter.
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I didn't get much done today. I did elongate the holes in the firewall so I could mock up the square body hydroboost. I will need to find a set of pedals and the dash bracket from a manual truck. The factory C/70 pedal box doesn't have much room for altering the booster holes. So If anyone has a kine on some pedals and the pedal box (pedal mounts/firewall mount) let me know. I'm going to try the Facebook C/10 groups in Ohio,Ky,and Tenn. I'll try to grab some photos tomorrow.
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Re: 1967 C-50 Dump truck Project
There's a guy up the road from me. I'm not sure if he ships or not but he only deals with Chevy trucks, you never know what he might have laying around. His name is Howard and he owns Dundee Truck and Trim in Dundee MI. 734-529-5934
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I picked up a couple clutch/brake pedal assemblies from Todd Rusk at the Freeman's swap meet in Indy this past weekend. This photo is the C/10/20/30 assembly right before I took it all apart.
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Here are a couple photos of the stock C/70 pedals and the C/10 pedals swapped onto the C/70 bracket. I need to look for the pivot shaft bushings as mine are about wore out.
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I didn't get many in progress photos of the pedal swap due to being caught up in forward progress. Here are some photos of the hydro boost being mocked up and you can see where I had to drill some extra holes.
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Originally I started to drill the bottom holes in the fire wall where the factory hydroboost holes were but then realized they wouldn't hit the factory C/70 fire wall mount/brace. I'll just weld up the factory H/B holes when I pull everything down for cleaning and paint. I'm also going to make a plate to extend the H/B plate up to the top pedal mount/fire wall brace. That way it'll look more uniform.
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Here are few photos of the factory 6 holes for the pedal mounts/fire wall brace. I ended up using all of these and altered the square body H/B mounts. I still need to address the ripped/missing piece with new metal and also need to drill out the spot welds on the C/10 pedal mount and weld it to the C/70 pedal mount.
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Here are a few photos of the pedals. I will have to weld on a tab on the brake pedal to make sure the factory H/B are will be able to attach and let my brake pedal line up with the clutch pedal. The last photo is the cross bar that holds the pedal stops/bumpers. I didn't get one on this set of pedals so I either need to locate one or build on. It allows the pedals to come back up to a consistent location when both are at rest.
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I also picked up the headlight switch and connector,ignition switch,key, and connector. I'll probably be making my own harness for this truck so I wanted to get a jump on purchasing the dash items.
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I cut open the driver side cowl panel today. It's not terrible but it'll be fun making the new patch panels.
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Nice steady progress I like it! Take lots of pictures when you replace the wheel cylinders, that what I have left next on my c50. I just finished up this hydroboost swap in my 67, came out of a 2007 c5500. Bosch hydro-max with a 2" bore master cylinder, just another option for this watching. Bolted right in no modifications except for the pedal push rod was cut down.
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Hey CarolinaHD, I was thinking of using the same system on my C50. Mind giving more details on how/where you bolted the push rod to the brake pedal? whats your pedal ratio? I've been searching around to make sure my pedal ratio is correct so the brakes dont feel hard/soft.
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and 71'Tahoe great thread going so far! I've enjoyed the reading and pictures. I too would've moved onto the Kansas cab. We may see each other at the next Freeman's swap meet!
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