Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

I used some degreaser, which helped with the real light stuff. But the over cleaner and about 30 minutes of soak time really cut through the crud. I sprayed a whole can on the top and will use a whole can on the bottom aslo. Make sure you read the back of the can to make sure it has the sodium hydroxide...not all of them do. I used a wire brush and a flat tip screwdriver for the hard to get areas...maybe an hours work total on the top end. The bottom is much cleaner, will probably take another 30 minutes to do that. And there was some thick crud on it. I'd try the over cleaner 1st and see how it cleans it up for you. With the upper control arms off, the crossmember was easy to move around by myself.

Heres a before and after pic....hard to see all the crud and grease, road tar...etc...but its there.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Got the underside of the front crossmember done last night, so maybe I'll get some color on today after work. The oven cleaner did the job again. Best $4 I've spent this week.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Going to stop by the store today and get some and a wire wheel. Going to start on my front end today. Last of the good weather this week so I want go get as much done as possible

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Didn't even need a wire wheel on mine. I used a wire brush after a 15min soak, then hit with a water hose. Used a flat tip screwdriver reached the hard to hit areas. It even removed 90% of the paint. Just make sure its got the sodium hydroxide Austin. Same stuff I use to remove anodization from aluminum.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Good morning, Looks like its time for a pancake?....and maybe some eggs.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

No, not dropping it, so the stock crossmember will work fine.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Got 2 good coats of rust treet down. It converts any rust I may have missed, removes any grease I may have missed, etches the metal and provides a great surface for paint. Calling for rain all day today and lowered temps the next two days, so will probably be this weekend before it sees any paint.

The rust treet is an industrial strength chemical that I have used at work before and I've used it on quite a few truck projects with great results. Nice thing is it can be sprayed, brushed, or dipped on. Just let it dry thouroughly and your ready for paint. I normally apply two coats and it lays down very smooth.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Man that's lookin good! Keep up the good work! :chevy:

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Thanks TJ.

We had a bad rain/wind storm come through yesterday, but I had a few hours in between to get some paint laid down. The 30+ mph winds helped with a nice breeze to dry the paint. Will finish the paint this weekend. I want 1 more good coat down, but so far its looking real good.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Looks good man! Thanks for the motivation I hope to get the front half of my frame sandblasted today if the wind will cooperate.

Bret

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Thanks Bret....slowly but surely its getting there.

I try and spend 30-60min a day at a minimum when weather and work permits. You'd be surprised how much can get done in little increments.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

I second that. My problem is mine is about 10 minutes away at my MIL's so its not as convenient. But I try to bring things home I can work on after work. I'm off work on Thursday and Sundays and you pretty much know where I will be :)

Bret

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

I hear you there. Im only downfall here is I don't have a walled garage yet. I have a 500sq ft carport, which is great, but I look forward to completing my barn this year so I can work indoors.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Indoors is great. Especially if you can fit a Fullsize pickup.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

You've seen the poles up....fitting 3 full size trucks will not be an issue.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

after hr's of cleaning and prep, then paint, that makes it all worth it. looking good!

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Thanks....yeah, the results are definitely worth the long hours and time spent prepping and chasing parts.

Picked up new grade 8 bolts today for the reinstall. All the bolts were 7/16" x 1 1/2" coarse (14 bolts total) for the crossmember to frame bolts in case it helps anyone else in the future. My local shop charged me $7 total, money well spent in my opinion.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

I go to ACE which is close to me, and grade 8 bolts aren't cheap. but 12mi to town make's it worth it.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

I'm lucky there, we have a commercial construction supply place about 2 blocks from my office, so I can swing by anytime at lunch. I've had to special order bolts too and they never charge me extra, but they stock most grade 3-8 bolts, which makes it nice. They don't even look up prices...just look at what I have and give me a price.

The bolts I removed from the crossmember still looked good, but I figure it'll be quite some time if ever that I remove it again, so I figured new bolts was the way to go. I always use either grade 8 or stainless steel depending on the project.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Man that looks good! Really inspiring me to do mine! :metal:

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

not that bad of a job tj. the hardest part is just making the decision to start doing it. my problem is once im ready to install in the next few weeks, new engine/trans and new front end will go on. so alot of different projects will come to a head at once

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Get all the little stuff lined up 1st TJ, new bolts, parts, paint, cleaners, tools... etc....the little stuff will nickel and dime you to death and its much easier to do the reinstall with all parts on hand.

Only part I'll have to rent is the ball joint press. I've never dropped the $ for one as its one of those things I use every 10 years and its easier to just get from Advanced Auto on loan. They require a refundable deposit, but no actual cost.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Last of the front suspension parts in. Moog Pitman Arm K6086 and Moog Idler Arm K14. Have to mark off the 600 yd range we're installing at Dad's Saturday and rain all day Sunday....maybe next week we'll get some parts installed.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Hardest part of pressin in the new ball joints is gettin em lined up dead straight. Moog lower ball joints have a long taper to help but still hard to get dead straight. The less expensive/off shore lower balljoints have about 0 lead in taper and are a bear to get straight started, do it wrong and they will actually gouge the lip inside the lower control arm then stick crooked part way in.....

Recommend using a hand wrench and socket to turn the shaft on the press....air wrench can get ya in trouble quick if it ain't all lined up straight and true.

Start em crooked and you have two issues, can't seat it and if you try too hard, it stretches out the hole and you wind up with a loose balljoint that has to be welded in place. In any event, I recommend tack welds on the bottom ball joint unless its a spanky new lower control arm yer pressin the joint into.

Re: 1963 C-10 in NC
 

Ok, thanks Rich. We'll the A-Arms are new to me, but obviously 50+ years old....guess that doesn't count. HAHA. Will watch install for proper alignment and fit. Keep you posted with pics. The crossmember from ol John Lee cleaned up pretty good huh?