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Re: Daverods project 66
So I want it like the third picture right. Just confussed on the -neg 2 part?
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Wow, Dennis - that graph's cool - a keeper.
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Maybe I better hold off working on my truck and work on my sled.:lol: Nah.
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:smoke: Gee - global warming.........;)
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Here's the link where I found the information. http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16319 Search Google and type in "Setting Pinion Angles" Lots of information. |
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:metal:I can hear metal on concrete.:metal::smoke:
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holey crap! that is one hell of a c-notch! looks awsome! yeah i would say you will for sure will be throwin sparks!
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man dave your kickin ass and takin names
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Any ideas on how to run my exhaust?
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Jason did a really good job building that kit. I wish I could have afforded it. Maybe you should just send it to me since i have his front raised crossmember.
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what you can do is cut out wholes with a holesaw in your carrier bearing crossmember. run your tubes through there and use turndowns.
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That's why I did mine this way. Make the exhaust routing easy. :smoke:
http://belair.smugmug.com/photos/640494839_BkEYx-M.jpg |
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Ya I'm stealing your idea.:lol: I like the look. Have any extra bezals? Damn, looked on ebay their proud of those things.
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I'm still confussed on the pinon thing. Do I want the diff to point down 3 degress? I can't really change the angle of the trans. can I. If I look at my 64 it looks as if the diff. is pointing up. I still need to get a digital level so I can see what's really going on. If the rear of the trans. is pointing down then I want the diff. pointing up, right?:confused: Can I even weld the tabs on my axle or do I have to wait to set the engine/ trans, so I know what that angle is?
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if you don't mind it loud, just dump it after the cab;)
Nice work BTW :thumbs: |
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Nice progress Dave:metal:
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Dave what you need to do is set your truck to what your ride hight is going to be. Set your pinion angle of the trans up 2-3* Then with the rear set at ride height you will set the pinion angle down 3*. The reason you do this is because the slip yoke in the trans will push in when lowering and raising. I asked Jason what he set his to when I was doing the front of mine at ride height and he said 3* on both. just opposet of eachother. hope you understand.
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Also when setting ride height you need to make sure that the carb is as level as can be then set your pinion anges from there.
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So it's sounding like I have to have the engine and transmission in before I can weld my tabs on the axle?:waah: Or can I just set the axle to the stock length at ride height, set it level, then use the swing arm bars on the side to change the angle after I get the engine trans in. It seems that adjusting the nuts on the swing arms will change the pinion angle? The tabs on top are welded on to the axle tube the swing arms are welded on to the bottom so adjustin the bottom must rotate the axle? I would like to finish the rear end without having to mounting my engine or trans.;)
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I haven't quite figured that out yet. If I have to I'll make it go through the frame, but will reinforce it where the hole will be. I have to look at it again since I have it back on the lift. Maybe turn it out after the front wheels where the frame is higher. I'm putting block hugger shorty headers on it, so that will make it easier. |
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Dave I wrote to Jason on the other forum trying to figure out what the pinion is supposed to be set at witht he 2 peice driveshaft. I forgot that's what yall have to have with this kit. I'm only running a 1 peice with my truck so it's a lot easier to work with. When I find out I'll get back with you. but what Dennis said about cutting through the frame is really easy, you just have to go back in and put metal around where you cut. I've thought about doing the same thing. but I'll have to see.
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