Re: 1968
 

Hey GDavis;
I also have a set of V8 perches that are already painted and ready to go if you need them.

Re: 1968
 

thanks

Re: 1968
 

Today I repainted the fire wall on the truck. I strached it a little when I pulled the motor. Next I'am going to run the front brake lines before I reinstall the motor. It still has shadows so I will repaint it again. Do it again untill I am satified.

Re: 1968
 

Don't give me the credit for knowing about perch difference. I learned some stuff from that one, too. I just knew I had the extra set of what turned out to be small block perches.

Glad the court thing turned out.

Re: 1968
 

thanks a lot man stay in the right lane. Let life go on it way. Don't be in a hurry.

Re: 1968
 

Today, It rained off and on all day long. So I didn't get anything done on the old girl. I did take the speed gage apart and paint the litter arm orange. So I got together all my brake line parts that I will be ordering from speedway. Hope to finish the brake lines from front to rear this week. That is if the parts come in.

Re: 1968
 

Today, is Sunday. Did nothing on the truck. I did walk out and looked at it if that counts. Rested again and spent time with the family. I try and not work on Sunday for that is Church day and God's day. Well I hope to install the new fuel pump and lines tomorrow or Tuesday. Guys I have parted four trucks out for my build and have some parts that are to good to through away. So If anyone needs anything fell free to ask.

Re: 1968
 

well that makes you 43 right. and I do know what to do about ugly.

Re: 1968
 

Yep, 43. Two years older than my truck (although 1 year younger than the doors, 3 years younger than the bed I removed from it, about the same age as the "new" frame....)

Sorry for the delay in shipping the perches. They're going out tomorrow. My wife is the shipping expert in the family, and she was too busy last week to get them out before the weekend.

You wouldn't happen to have a black dash pad, would you? Or maybe a 72 door pull (fort he inside of the door, screws to the panel)?

Re: 1968
 

Today I installed the brake booster and master cly. and port. valve. My port valve bracket was wrong so I built one. Don't look like a pro but it will work and also installed the vent door handles with the knob type. I like these better.
In one of the pictures You can see how the PO had it to work. I don't think Gemeral Motors design it that way. I know they didn't. What can I do except for replaceing the booster? I thought about threading the booster rod and attaching a buckle type to hook to the rod buckle. Which comes out from under the dash. which attaches to the brake pedal. What do you guys think? Looking for ideas.........

Re: 1968
 

Hey gdavis;
Is the original bracket that's attached to the vacuum booster removable, if so unbolt it and set it aside, then bolt the booster to the new truck bracket directly.
If it doesnt bolt up to the stock truck style bracket then it's the wrong booster for this truck.
What happened to the connecting rod it looks like it was cut off.

Re: 1968
 

I agree. You shouldn't need both mounting brackets. Here's a picture of the setup on Mustard before I took it all apart. I thought I had some better pics of it, but apparently not.

Re: 1968
 

Oops. Here's the pic.

Re: 1968
 

gdavis;
In the lower LH position of the brake booster bracket there is supposed to be a special raised section where your steering column firewall bracket fits under it then you put a bolt through it to hold it securely in place.

Re: 1968
 

Today, I removed the second bracket and mounted it to the fire wall. I went to the welding shop today and they are making me a set of brackets. Whickis really not brackets. They are a wedge or a tri angle out of alumium. 1/2 inch thick by 3/4 wide and 4 1/4 inches tall. When I am done it will set level and against the fire wall. New booster 59.95, set of alumium angles 10.00. I only have a spacer for now. It gave me the distances to measure. The angles will be done in a day or two. Then I welded my rod out of the booster with the rodunder the dash. It fits great. I will post pictures of the end result maybe Wednesday or Thursday.

Re: 1968
 

In picture number four on this post is the brake pedal with two holes in it. Does the rod fit into the top hole or the bottom. I also ran my small lines to the p-valve. The small lines are made out of nickle, bronze and steel. Which makes bending a snap.
Since this truck did not come with a 350 what fuel pump do I use? I have a two line pumo and a three line pump. But I don't like the slip on lines. On both pumps. Do they make a pump that has threads for all lines? I think it would be better than the slip hose and do away with a future leaking problem.

Re: 1968
 

Looking great!

Re: 1968
 

Coming along nice. When I went to get a fuel pump for my blazer at o'reillys they didn't have the one with 3 lines. On their system the 3 line is listed for auto trans trucks and 2 line is listed for manual trans. I used the 2 line as that is what was on mine already. The 3rd port is a return line to the tank to relieve excess pressure. Dustin
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Re: 1968
 

If you plan to run without emissions then the 2 line pump is what you need, as far as plumbing the return line I would use metal fuel line for the majority and the best quality 5/16" hose you can get for sections that need connections.

Re: 1968
 

I have them both. A three line and a two line. Just wanted to know what would be better?

Re: 1968
 

Today, I worked on the dry fit of the steering colum. I am not going to use the one I have in the truck. I am not totally concerned with this one. I will be getting a tilt in the future. Going to get it running and then I'll see. I did clean and paint the colum. This was a person want get all dirty working on it.

Hey guys how do a person get the fire wall boot over the colum shifter????? I tried and riped it so now I have to get another one. There got to be something I am doing wrong. Like holding my mouth wrong or bitting my lower lip.??????????????????????????????????????

Here it is Tuesday and I am no furter alone than I was last week. I did figure out the brake booster though.

Re: 1968
 

I'll go to the parts depot tomorrow. Or what we locals call advance auto. A real small place. if I need some parts changes are they will have to order them. But that is one of the draw backs of living in a small town.

Re: 1968
 

gdavis;
It's time to suck it up and buy a tilt column from CPP, besides $350 isn't that much money and you will be a lot happier anyway, call and ask for Jeff Norton at CPP for a 10% discount, tell him you are a member of 67-72chevytrucks.com that will knock $35 off the cost of the column.
To answer your question you will need to remove the splined steering shaft to get the new boot on.

Re: 1968
 

Today, I sand blasted the new perches that Rick sent me. Thanks so much Rick. I primed and painted them black. So tomorrow I will mount them on the engine. I also mounted the new E-brake off of the 72 on the 68 cab. I like the foot brake style better. The only thing is I need to know where the E brake cable come thru the fire wall. Will I have to drill a hole for the E-brake cable and how about the gromit. What does it look like. Rick can you take a picture of yours and where it comes thru the fire wall and post in on my site.

Re: 1968
 

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