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Re: Daverods project 66
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Ya baby. I was kind worried if I had my notch in the right spot or not. Got room to spare. I just looked at the pictures to get it in the right spot. Did'nt really measure anything.:lol:
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I see what your talking about now on the lower link bars, By adjusting the threade rod end will change the pinion angle. I wont push the alxe back or bring it up since the top will be in the same spot regardless, just rotated either way. As far as cutting a whole in the frame. that's not a problems as long as you box around the frame in that area and add some plate on the outside or inside of the frame rail. I've seen others do it that way.
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Check it.:metal: Got to love the background music and quaility camera work. Damn I watched it about 3 times and it gave me a woodie.:four::smoke:
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Adjusting the lower links will change your pinion angle, but it will also change your axle center-line in relation to your notches...it would be best to get your pinion close and just make some fine tuning adjustments with the adjustable links
COOL VIDEO!! |
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loooks good man I just watched it 3 times but didn't get a woodie, maybe I should watch it some more.
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from the looks of the clip it seems to be working good , changing the pinionangle using the treaded rods should be possible but to move it down you need to lengthen to bottom one and shorten the top one , that way to axle stays where it is , the arc of travel might change a bit when there not parralel bars
i wonder if the angle is needed with the bars because its a pretty solid connection to the frame , usually they use the angle on leafsprings so it straightens when the leafs wind up under accelleration |
Re: Daverods project 66
I just set it by eye and tacked it for now. When I know for sure I'll weld it on for good. I'm sure I can get a few degree's just by turning the nuts on the arms. I does'nt have much of an arc. It moves pretty much up and down. I don't think the pinion angle is as critical when your using a two piece driveline. There's twice as many u joints. I can always raise or lower the carrier bearing. Have to do some more research.;)
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It is even more critical with a 2 piece drive-shaft, and more complicated. You don't want any of the joints at 0 degrees of the will wear out prematurely
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Adjust the angle to the center joint. It should be in faze that way. Also I looked at my truck and there's lots of room to put the exhaust pipes from the block huggers along the inside of the frame to where the frame kicks up. Then cross over from there. Remember I have a 73 rear part of the frame, but I looked at the back half of my old frame and it looks like you can do the same thing.
http://belair.smugmug.com/photos/668936973_DDGaP-M.jpg http://belair.smugmug.com/photos/668937801_V2Vcz-M.jpg |
Re: Daverods project 66
Lots of room. So I guess you can go under. Now all I need are some bezels for cheap.:lol: I found some mustang ones.:lol: I could'nt.:chevy:
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http://www.corvetteamerica.com/cf/di...xhaust%20bezel http://www.corvetteamerica.com/image.../lmore2941.jpg |
Re: Daverods project 66
I've been using my aircompressor to fill my air bags. I was worried about the pressure. Whats the max pressure I should put in them?
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Again look in E-Bay. Mustang is a thought also. But I like the Corvette ones better too. They're at a better angle.
http://cdn2.ioffer.com/img/item/814/201/16/24_1.JPG |
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