Re: pdx-sanity66
 

I closed it but I can't find a way to remove it. I will check with the Administrators and see if there is a way..

LockDoc

Re: pdx-sanity66
 

Would one of the administrators remove the poll from my thread. It is depressing to keep looking at the lack of response to this.
I've been working on some bodywork lately. I've done the final smoothing of the hood and it's ready for one more coat of epoxy. The pass. fender has been taken off (again). Final smoothing and ready for one more coat of epoxy. Now that I have the pass. door aligned, it will be taken off for final smoothing out and one more coat of epoxy. I hope to get this spraying done tomorrow. Once that is done I will be working on final work on the roof and side panels to prep for another coat of slick sand, prep, and paint. Then get the windshield and rear glass installed. I am ordering my wood bed kit from Mar-k today. Things are moving along pretty well now that the Monsoon season is over and the daytime temps have cooled down to the 80s. I'll post some pics later.

Re: pdx-sanity66
 

Sounds like you are making some good progress. Please post the pics later. I may not always comment but I always check your thread out when I see a new post.

Re: pdx-sanity66
 

Thanks for looking in. Here are a few pics of bodywork ready for one more coat of epoxy.

Re: pdx-sanity66
 

Looking great! Personally I think the C60 grill chromed or not would be a great choice and different.

Re: pdx-sanity66
 

Thanks TJ. I have decided to use the C60 grill. It's in great shape and I've always liked them. I'm still deciding what to do with the center opening. I can't decide whether to keep the bow tie or put the Chevrolet script in the center. I've also considered having the script chromed. The grill will be painted white.

Re: pdx-sanity66
 

The chrome Chevrolet letters in the center makes me think of the 61 grilles. I think that would be a great look

Re: pdx-sanity66
 

It'd be neat to figure a way to do the script and keep the bowtie as well to me.

The script though would be sweet.

Re: pdx-sanity66
 

This has been a heck of a journey with some great work involved. :)

Re: pdx-sanity66
 

I agree with you. Now I just need to make it happen.
I will definitely keep the bow tie and use it somewhere but probably not on the grill.
Thanks man. I am getting real close to paint. I just need to figure out when to stop and turn it over to a shop for minor blocking and paint. I'm having a real hard time letting go.

I got the final epoxy on the hood and pass. side door and front fender. I'm hoping to get some slick sand sprayed today. Pics to come.

Re: pdx-sanity66
 

If you aren't running a radio, maybe you could incorporate the bowtie into a radio delete plate?

Re: pdx-sanity66
 

Is it weird if i say im excited for you getting this done?! LOL Looking good....

Re: pdx-sanity66
 

That would be cool but I'm keeping the very nice delete plate. Maybe I can incorporate it in the the interior somewhere.
I think it's something that all if us that have followed along with a build for awhile like to see it finished, and for me it's a motivator to keep busy.

Well. I got the epoxy and a coat of slick sand sprayed and have the driver door off to finish the bottom and prep for epoxy along with the left fender.

Re: pdx-sanity66
 

Yesterday I also took my C60 grill apart to get ready for media blasting. I also removed the driver door and fender to finish up the door bottom and finish both like the passenger side.

Re: pdx-sanity66
 

I decided to add this list to my thread for info only. I think I will post some before and after pics from time to time.
Frame, Suspension, and Brakes
* The frame, upper and lower control arms, 1¼” sway bar, rear differential, brake backing plates, and the trailing arms were stripped, cleaned, and painted 2 coats of Eastwood’s Rust Encapsulator and 2 coats of Extreme Chassis Black.
* Stock transmission cross member and center cross member removed and replaced with CPP tubular cross members
* New Parts
1. Upper and lower ball joints
2. CPP 2½” drop spindles
3. CPP Disc brakes calipers, rotors, pads Emergency brake cables cleaned, oiled, and ready to be installed
4. CPP 1” drop front coil springs
5. Upper and lower control arm bushings
6. Moog poly sway bar bushings with new brackets
7. CPP Dropped center crossmember
8. Energy Suspension Poly trailing arm bushings
9. CPP 5” rear dropped coil springs with new coil spring holders and bolts
10. CPP Adjustable track bar
11. CPP Gas shocks (rear shocks relocated to outside of the frame rails with modified lower mounts and front style top mounts
12. Trailing arm/rear diff U-bolts
13. Dutchman chrome moly axles with new axle bearings and seals
14. Rear differential gaskets, seals, and SS Allen head cover bolts
15. Rear Brake shoes, drums, wheel cylinders, and all related hardware
16. CPP automatic transmission crossmember and mount
17. CPP tubular motor mount perches. Mounted 2.5 in. forward of stock
18. Inline Tube SS brake lines with fittings and hardware
19. 100% new grade 8 hardware on all installations unless noted
20. CPP
Steering
1. Captain Fab power steering adapter plate
2. CPP Tie rods, billet tie rod ends, idler arm
3. 1978 Chev power steering gear with new Moog pitman arm
4. New GM Power steering hoses.
5. Center link and power steering gear stripped, cleaned, and painted
6. 1971 Camaro tilt steering column overhauled with new bearings, turn signal cam, tilt and turn signal arms
7. Modified the steering column/emergency brake mounting plate to accept the tilt steering and to move the column forward toward the dash for more seating space and reach
8. Original steering shaft shortened. Flaming River U-joint 1”DDx3/4” joins the steering column to the steering shaft.
9. Steering wheel. 66 Nova Sport
Fuel System
* Fuel Tank relocated to rear frame rails under bed
1. New: 64 Mustang/Falcon fuel tank
2. Top section of frame rail opened up .5 in. on each side to mount the tank under the top frame rail
3. Rear crossmember relocated and spare tire crossmember removed
4. Holes drilled in tank and frame for mounting
5. Mounting plates and rubber cushions fabricated
6. Tank prepped, epoxy primed, and painted 2 coats of Eastwood Alumablast paint
7. permanently mounted the tank to the frame sandwiched between the rubber cushions
8. New: SS fuel sender (64-67 Mustang) installed
9. Fuel filter installed on the cross member near the fuel tank. Aeroquip hose and fitting from tank to filter
10. 3/8 in. SS fuel line installed from the filter, down the frame rail, to near the Edelbrock fuel pump.
11. Aeroquip Starlight -6an braided black racing hose and Summit black -6an aluminum fittings from the 3/8 in. SS line to the pump and pump to carb filter



Engine and Drivetrain
* Engine and related parts
1. GM Crate Long Block: 350 cu in, 330hp, 380ft/lbs. torque
Part #19210007 Summit Racing
2. Edelbrock Performer EPS intake (Black)
Part#27163 Summit Racing
Edelbrock intake manifold gasket, bolts, & washers
3. Summit 8” Harmonic balancer and 168 tooth TCI flex plate combo
Part#CMB-08-0001 Summit Racing
4. Speedway Motors Tru-Ram Exhaust headers in natural cast iron with bolts and copper gaskets. Part#9300300 Speedway Motors
5. Restored late model GM serpentine belt system with new ac delete bracket and pulley, Goodyear idler pulley (#49006), tensioner pulley (#49001), and Continental serpentine belt #4060970
6. Alternator tested, cleaned up, and pulley painted
7. New AC Delco power steering pump and pulley
8. AC Delco Spark plugs MRS43LTS
9. MSD #31769 8.5mm super conductor spark plug wires
10. Edelbrock #1406 Carburetor, linkage, fuel line, and inline Russel filter
11. Billet aluminum caps for oil fill, pcv valve, breather
12. Dipstick and mount installed in the engine block
13. MSD Pro Billet HEI Distributor #8365
14. AC Delco Water pump #130-1620p
15. Edelbrock Mechanical Fuel pump
16. New mini Starter and ARP bolts
17. Canton Racing oil bypass eliminator and oil filter adapter #22-570
18. K&N high performance oil filter
19. Billet aluminum, black anodized timing pointer
20. All new grade 8 hardware unless noted otherwise

* Transmission
1. Transmission Exchange 700R4 Heavy Duty Automatic
2. Transgo hydraulic shift kit
3. Heavy duty torque converter.
4. TCI 14”/168 tooth flexplate
5. Lokar 23” Nostalgia Shifter. The mount is bolted to the transmission, the hole is cut in the floorboard, and the shifter has been set up for 2 options for position. Linkage has been installed and adjusted,
6. B&M Super Cooler Transmission cooler installed and plumbed
7. Transmission cooling lines Inline Tube 3/8” stainless steel lines with -6AN stainless steel male fittings. Aeroquip Starlight braided black racing hose and Summit black hose fittings from Trans to SS lines, from SS lines to radiator, from radiator to cooler and return line.
8. Summit Racing black powder coated flexplate cover
9. Bowtie overdrives TV made easy cable system. Spring and cable installed in transmission
10. TV cable installed in the Trans, hooked into the mount and carb.
11. Linkage adapter installed on the carb linkage.
12. Lokar black transmission dip stick installed.
13. Jeg’s finned aluminum transmission pan
14. Speedometer gear 15 gray/41 yellow
15. Speedometer cable
16. Bowtie Overdrives pressure gauge (temporary install for trans setup)
17. Classic Instruments transmission temp gauge and sender installed

* Cooling System
1. Champion 3 row aluminum radiator w/ integrated trans cooler
2. Radiator core support mounted on frame with new mounting kit
3. Dual 12” Electric fans and aluminum fan shroud
4. Fan temp sender, relays, fuse box and controller installed and wired.
5. radiator hoses and clamps installed
6. Heater hose bypass hose, fittings, and clamps
7. Radiator installed with new fabricated top mounting pads and holder installed and lower mounts relocated outward
to match the radiator better also with new pads installed.

* Drivetrain work completed.
1. Intake manifold installed
2. Flexplate installed w/ARP fasteners
3. New motor mounts installed onto engine block w/ARP fasteners
4. Torque convertor oiled and installed
5. Engine and transmission bolted together
6. Engine and transmission installed in chassis and bolted to CPP tubular mounts
7. Torque convertor and flexplate bolted together w/ARP fasteners
8. Flexplate black powdercoated dust cover installed
9. Harmonic balancer installed
10. Billet aluminum timing pointer
11. Exhaust headers blasted, painted and installed
12. 2000 Chev truck 2 piece driveline shortened and balanced with new Spicer u-joints, carrier bearing, and transmission yoke
Other frame related work
* Radiator core support cleaned, media blasted, epoxy primed, painted, and installed with new core support mounting kit
* Inner fenders cleaned, stripped, epoxy primed, prepped and painted the backsides with U-pol bed liner. Front sides painted with 2k ceramic under hood black
* Energy Suspension poly body mount kit
* Body mounted back on frame with new mounts

Re: pdx-sanity66
 

This is the rest of the previous post. Again, this is for my personal record and not meant to bore anybody.
*Bumpers and brackets
1. Front—stock chromed with original brackets restored
2. Rear-- 67-72 Chev, new chrome with new 67-72 brackets
Wiring
* American Autowire Classic Update completed wiring kit
1. Part #500560
2. I made an aluminum fuse box/fan controller mount and mounted the assembly on the driver’s side inner firewall
3. Oil sender, temp sender, alternator, tach sender, and distributor wiring complete.
4. Dual fan to relays to Dakota digital controller wiring complete
5. Battery, starter/solenoid wiring complete
6. Carb auto choke wiring completed
7. Front lights and horn done. Original hardware restored with new bulbs and relays
8. Rear lights done. Original hardware with new pigtails and and conversion to LED.
9. Fuel gauge sender wired.

Cab Body Work
* Stripped all parts from cab
* Replaced passenger side fresh-air box
* Replaced rusted out areas of the passenger side floor, kick panel, inner rocker, lower door pillar, and patched and re-installed stock outer rocker panel
* Replaced rusted out areas of the driver side floor, kick panel, inner rocker, lower door pillar, outer rocker panel
* Patched corners of floor where the gas pedal sits and the opposite side
* Cab bottom cleaned, stripped, prepped, and painted with epoxy primer and then U-lol Raptor Bed Liner.
* Upper door pillar seams and roof to windshield seams filled
* Welded and finished seams in door pillars and rockers
* Stripped, filled all unneeded holes, smoothed, and epoxy primed the firewall and then painted it with Eastwood’s 2K Ceramic Under Hood black urethane.
* Stripped, sanded and epoxy primed all interior surfaces. The ceiling and the back area painted with Eastwood Aluma-blast
* cleaned, prepped, dash for repaint
* Patched passenger side rear cab corner
* Seam sealed all floor areas.
* Lizardskin heat shield sprayed on floor, kick panels, and inner firewall
* Boom Mat spray sound deadener on upper inner firewall
* Rear half of the floor and halfway up the back of the cab painted with Upol Raptor bed liner
* New reproduction bed sides and front panel installed
* Inside of door openings media blasted and epoxy primed
* Doors stripped, inside bottoms patched and finished, epoxy primed
Bed
* New reproduction front panel epoxy primed
* New reproduction bed sides
* New reproduction rear cross sill epoxy primed
* Replacement original tailgate media blasted and epoxy primed
* 4 new cross sills and 1 media blasted and all 5 epoxy primed
* Bed kit ordered from Mar-k with white oak

Dashboard
* top of dash needs repaint
* Radio delete plate paint and install
* Heater control block off plate installed
* Polished/brushed stock aluminum gauge surround
* Custom black painted gauge panel
* Autometer gauges
* The Gauge panel wiring is complete with LED turn signal and bright lite indicators
* Painted glovebox door and parts and installed with new hardware
* Added a new glovebox light
* Installed gauge panel and completed wiring
* New headlight switch, ignition switch, and wiper switch installed
* Heater controls?
Exhaust
* Complete 2 ½” dual exhaust system from header flanges to in front of rear tires with Flowmaster mufflers

Re: pdx-sanity66
 

Okay, back to what is going on now. I took the drivers door and fender off to finish the bottom of the door and give them both a coat of slick sand. I did a little more smoothing of both doors lower pillars and they are ready for another coat of epoxy. I also have a stripped bolt hole on the passenger lower hinge nuts It looks as though I can retap it like I did on the drivers side. Then reassemble the fenders and doors, hopefully for the last time until paint. As usual, I'm also working on a couple of other things. I have the roof pillars slick sanded and smoothed up. I have started prepping the roof for a coat of slick sand and finishing. The roof is in excellent shape. It was prepped and epoxy primed a while ago, so it is ready to seam seal and finish up. Then get the top painted at least so I can get the glass in.

Re: pdx-sanity66
 

Good to make a list like that, you'll be adding small stuff along the way but the it's good to do especially for planning and keeping up with purchasing.

Re: pdx-sanity66
 

I agree, I've kept most receipts except on consumables but I haven't looked at it in a while. The budget on this project went out the window a long time ago.

Just an update. I've got both of the door jams epoxied with just a couple of small spots that will need further attention. The driver door and fender have been removed and smoothed up. They didn't need much attention so I gave them one more coat of epoxy and sanded smooth. The pass. door and fender were sanded smooth after a coat of slick sand and only have a couple of very small spots that one more coat should easily take care of. So, both doors and both fenders are ready for slick sand. I am hoping to do both of the cowl extension and the cowl while I am at it. They only need some light sanding first. This is some pretty boring stuff right now but hopefully I'll have the doors and fenders and stuff back on the truck in about a week for the last time until I find a painter.

Re: pdx-sanity66
 

This is a sentence we can all relate to!

Re: pdx-sanity66
 

That's for sure, I've been hanging around for 10 yrs. or so and I've seen it more times than I can count. I love it.

well, I ordered my bed wood kit a couple of days ago from Mar-K and I'm really excited. I'm about to finish the body work on the front end as far as I'm going before turning it over to the professionals for prep ad paint, so The bed is the last to deal with. If I can get the bed I can get it set up to drill the holes and finish it. I got polished stainless strips and hardware and I'm going with white oak for the wood. I'll be doing some research on finishes very soon. I've got a bunch of small pieces and the center console structure are ready for paint. I'm using Eastwood's ceramic chassis black. I'v also got the tool box part ready for paint, also. I'm going for the hammered look so I'll be trying that first on the bottom of the box to see if I'm going to like it. I've also got the roof and side panels ready for a coat of sick sand along with the cowl vent and cowl extensions.

Re: pdx-sanity66
 

Oh cool, it's always exciting getting new parts and stuff to do. :)

Re: pdx-sanity66
 

I love getting new parts but I'm not lacking for things to do. All of this primering and sanding is getting old but hopefully I'll be done with the cab by the time the bed stuff gets here. This is the time of year down here that the temp is just right for body work so I'm trying to get the cab done before the weather gets cooler. I just have a hard time figuring out how much should I do before leaving it to professionals to block out and paint. I'm hoping to get the roof masked off and sprayed with the final coat of slick sand, then prep and paint.

Re: pdx-sanity66
 

Oh heck YES!!! I like this!!!

Re: pdx-sanity66
 

Thanks, my friend.
I'm getting ready to put the last coat of high build on the roof today. Everything is set up, I just have to give it one more wipe down with pre-prep and get down to spraying. The roof will be ready for paint prep after this and then get the windshield and rear glass installed FINALLY.