Re: 1968
 

Years ago I tried running a long nose water pump on Mustard but it didn't work. If I recall correctly, the issue was with the pulleys not lining up, though. You must've already gotten past that though, so hopefully it'll work out.

Re: 1968
 

Thanks for the information about the distance to the radiator. I didn't get to mount the front clip back on the truck. Maybe tomorrow and then i will see what the distance is.

Re: 1968
 

I will be working on his schedule so I am not going to rush him. Also on his dime so again his schedule. I will be his goffer. Go foe this and go foe that. But stay tuned. He is coming up when the kids are out of school. He also adophted some kids (3) It is in the water I guess. So If you come down here bring some water. That way you want have to drink the adopthted water.

Re: 1968
 

No I haven't got the trouble solved with the pully's lining up. I am looking into replaceing the long nose with the short nose. I have the short nose also. I changed it out when I thought the difference was too far from the radiator. But, now I am sure I am going to use the short nose. So thanks for the information about your trouble with the long nose.

Re: 1968
 

So, back to what I did today on my patches. I installed the cross member on the transmission. Bolted the transmission mount to the cross member. The upper support to the cross member both sides. If I do this again I will use the tublor style cross member.
I can't stand all the bolts that is nessarary for the OEM to work. In this case GM did not have a good idea. 14 BOLTS It took me about 2 hours to line up everything. The thing is to leave all bolts loose before you start tighten any of them up.

I also ordered two lines pre bent for the port valve. I don't like the way I bend the lines. Here is the pipe bender I have what a borshion this thing is. (Spelling)

Re: 1968
 

Just catching on your build... Looking good friend. I think I'm just as anxious to see it painted as you are. :-)
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Re: 1968
 

I don't think so. I have what you call the 10 month itch. The color just can't seem to catch up with me. I am itching to see color myself. But, I am closer than I was 10 month ago. That is what I keep telling myself. But thanks for reading. I post more pictures than comments.

Re: 1968
 

Today Is Saturday. I mounted the short nose water pump back on the motor. The long nose made the blades stick all the way inside of the shroud. So I knew that would never keep the motor cool enough. I mounted the front clip back on the truck.
Then I ran my cooling lines from the transmission to the radiator. Then I heard the mail man blow his horn. I knew I had my parts. Well it wasn't the parts I wanted. What came in was the new transmission dip stick and tube and the motor oil dip stick and tube. So I mounted the transmission tube. It should have been the right one. But I made it work. The bracket was in the wrong place. About 4 inch to low. But with a stanless bushing and a longer bolt it worked. I am not sure if I like it. What do you guys think?
The front clip went back on without a hitch. It should for I have done it enough.

Re: 1968
 

Do you think I have enough clearence for the distributor now. I can throw a bull between the firewall and the back of the motor.

Re: 1968
 

It looks like the Transmission tube works just fine after your modification.
The truck looks great man.

Re: 1968
 

George, do you already have the driveshaft attached. How did the engine get so far foward? You have made some good progress, but I'm thinking that moving the engine that far forward i'snt a good idea. I think your going to have alot of fitment issue from the fan to the driveshaft.

Re: 1968
 

Hes got the engine in the factory V8 position.

Re: 1968
 

Guys: I was thinking today as I was resting. How would it work If I movied the motor back about 1 1/2 inches. Here is a picture of where the perches are now. The perches still look like they are setting about 1 1/2 inches to far forward. They are not resting fully on the cross member. So If I movied them half the distance back wouldn't that make the perches rest fully on the cross member.

Re: 1968
 

Here is where I think I might move them. I have cut a circle out of a piece of white paper and placed it on the new spot. Guys am I over thinking this or what? I not looking for something to do but, I just don't like the big distance I have now on the firewall.

Re: 1968
 

When I move the motor back it might even work with my drive shaft.

Re: 1968
 

The dip stick tube works just fine. But the distance well it just don;t suit me at this point.

Re: 1968
 

The perches are in the right place. The forward holes is where the small block V8 should fit. The fan works good also I dry fitted the fan and it is in tolerance of where it will work.

The drive shaft is another issue. but if I move it back the 1 1/2 inches I think it also might work.

Re: 1968
 

George, your ok. You haven't cut anything or fabricated anything to make it sit that way so thats a good thing. I'd put the driveshaft and fan on and hook up the engine hoist and move the engine back to happy medium.

Re: 1968
 

That is what I am going to do tomorrow. I sat here and thought it over and I am moving it back 1 1/2 inches. Don't even have to use the hoist to do this. Just remove the bolts and slide it back 1 1/2 inches. Drill new holes but, that is a easy thing. I'll post the pictures on the motor back tomorrow.

Re: 1968
 

Keep in mind the farther back towards the firewall you go the wider the frame rails get so you can only go so far towards the firewall before the V8 perches wont work anymore because it will pull the motor mounts away from the block, also if you go too far back it will change the angle at which the engine and transmission are sitting which could potentially cause a problem with the driveshaft.
Personally I would leave it where it is, it's a truck not a sports car, and on top of that you aren't building this thing for autocross anyway.
If it aint broke don't fix it.
As far as the driveshaft goes you have a I6 driveshaft which is why it isn't long enough, just get the v8 version out of another truck or get one out of a land whale and have it cut down.

Re: 1968
 

Well I movied the motor back that 1 1/2 and now I like the way it sets in the truck. I had to drill new holes but that was easy. Just lifted one side at a time and used my cordless drill with a short bit and the rest is history.

Re: 1968
 

It looks like it worked out well for you.

Re: 1968
 

I ordered these parts

front glass weather stripping 35.00
eng switch plate free
rear lights with harness free
new light brackets for the tail lights Alunium 20.00
trailing arms bushings set
tracking arm bushings set
complete set of sway bar bushings setall three for 39.00 didn't need these but they can with the set.
2 wing chrome windows for 100.00

Re: 1968
 

Good job George

Re: 1968
 

How does the driveshaft work now? Hopefully you've found a happy medium for your combo. Just keep the bulls out of the engine bay, as they will probably get clogged between the back of the engine and the firewall. :lol: