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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
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I had planned on doing this sometime soon, but all the talk of shock lengths got me curious, so I broke out the tape measure. Here's what I found: -----------------(F)--Bilstein 24-192941--------Monroe 33033 Extended----------------15 1/2-------------------14 5/8 Compressed-------------10 3/8--------------------10 1/8 Travel-------------------5 1/8---------------------4 1/2 -----------------(R)--Bilstein 24-002486--------Monroe 32301 Extended----------------18 7/16-------------------18 1/4 Compressed--------------12 3/16-------------------11 7/8 Travel--------------------6 1/4---------------------6 3/8 Of note: the Bilstein measurements are mine, the Monroe measurements are taken from their online catalog. The measurements I'm most concerned with here are the compressed lengths, due to my lowered suspension, and therefore shorter distance between shock mounts. The Bilstein fronts are 1/4" longer and the rears are 5/16" longer, compared to their Monroe counterparts. Not a dramatic difference, but enough to warrant double-checking that I won't bottom them out when I whack a pothole or speedbump. The relatively small difference shouldn't get them out of their mid-stroke 'sweet spot', but again, I'll have to verify. Hope this helps :chevy: |
Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
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Stabbed the steering box this evening. Before it went in, I contemplated painting it to tone down the red, but figured it wouldn't really show once installed. Boy, was I wrong :lol: That picture reminds me that I need to re-do those brake lines when the new master goes in.
Second pic shows the reason I had to pull the PS pump--swapped in the inverted flare style pressure fitting I grabbed at the pick-a-part. The 'old' steering box was o-ring style, so instead of splicing, I just bought a new hose... |
Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
No real progress today other than re-installing the PS pump/pulley and sneaking away from work at lunch to snag a low pressure side steering box line from the JY- tried bending one myself, then decided original GM would be better than my mangled mess :lol: I did receive shipping notice today from Porterbuilt for a 64lb box set to arrive on Sep 4th! PB parts in the house pics will follow :D Almost have all parts gathered for the 'transformation'...
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
'transformation'. What I miss ?
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
Sweet !
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
Love the build. You will love the 6.0L. I drive everyday in my 2012 3500 Express with a 6.0L. I will fill up on E-85 whenever I can find it. With E-85 it has faster throttle response and more power but less mpg.:chevy:
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
Nice build, doing the same stuff I'll be doing to my '65 once I finish my son's '82. I hope to go up to GG's lonestar in October, maybe I can get to meet you.
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
New, more traditional 'blank' rotors came in today. Getting down to the nitty-gritty...
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...F826DBD942.jpg Posted via Mobile Device |
Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
Ahhhh, new parts.... :metal: Lol! Its a sickness!
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
Haha! Yes, it is :lol: ...and more to come...
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
Drove the truck some today with the RedHead steering gear installed. MUCH better feel than before. Smooooth and quiet, too, especially compared to the 'old' (parts store rebuilt) box. It's easier to steer, but in a controlled manner, not the single-finger Cadillac steering, but not too heavy either. Somewhere this side of 'just right'. It also cleared up the off-center feel and turn signal cancellation problems I was having with the old box that I can only guess was due to using the incorrect pitman arm. Overall, very happy with the upgrade :)
Side note: lowered trucks need swaybars. I pulled and sold my 3/4 ton bar in anticipation of installing the new PB unit. Spirited driving without a front swaybar is a big no-no. Borderline scary... Posted via Mobile Device |
Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
...tracking the PB parts. They're in town, but not scheduled to deliver til Tuesday...
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
Im glad to hear that the Redhead steering gear is an improvement, I'm going to order one for my '63.
The handling woes that you are having do make me wonder what's going on. Is that with bags in the rear still? What springs or bags in the front? Ive gone with ECE 4/6 on my '68 and I'm sure that it will see some "spirited" driving. Do you attribute the handling issues to the bags? I know that the sway bar helps tremendously, but what else do you think was going on? Posted via Mobile Device |
Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
The issues I was having yesterday were excessive body roll (or sway) and just a general sloppy, uneasy feeling overall. I attribute this directly to the lack of anti-sway bar. The rear 'bags are isolated from one another, so they should perform similarly to coils. I may head out today and install the PB unit, since it includes brackets to mount to stock arms as well. I will report back the change in driving character if I do...
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
I've run an ECE 4/6 drop on my '63 w/o a sway bar for about 10 years now...I'm looking forward to the improvement after I bolt one on. It has never handled bad on the street or highway, but will certainly feel "sportier" with the sway bar.
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Can't have an update without pics, so update coming soon :chevy: Posted via Mobile Device |
Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
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Today was Operation: Install Sway Bar. This is the Porterbuilt piece, specially made by and drop shipped from Addco. For a bolt-in piece, it fought me the whole way. This is probably mainly due to temporarily using it with my factory control arms and steering linkage instead of the R&P/tube arms of a Dropmember.
Due to the completely lackluster instructions included, I had to look up other's installs online. Seems there has been a change in the parts supplied with the kit. The main issue I had with it was the length of the end links. I just could not find a way to make the 10" long supplied links work without hitting something or being in a bind, so I went down to Lowe's and picked up a couple of grade 8, 5" long, 3/8 bolts and deleted the spacers from the equation. Problem solved. Nate or Dave may chime in and tell me I'm dumb, I just couldn't figure it out :lol: Also, I had a little heartache with the way the frame bushings fit before I torqued them down--the flat backing plate of the bushing bushing ended up right where the frame horns curve. Once I tightened them up, the bushings and frame contoured to one-another, but it seemed to compress the bushings too much. Everything still works well, it just didn't seem as well thought out as it should be. I do like that they are tucked up out of harms way when mounted without frame brackets, though. Lastly, the kit was shipped with only grade 5 hardware and no washers. Personal preference, I upgraded to grade 8 with flat washers and nylock nuts. The finish on the bar itself looks nice, but is already beginning to chip and flake... :( |
Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
Are you going to have to move the bar again when you install your new a-arms?
Just wondering if the bolt-on brackets you installed on your stock a-arms,... will be in the same place as the tabs on the PB arms? |
Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
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As you probably noticed in the other pics (and pointed out by LoLife), the bar came with these handy little 'L' brackets, that due to lack of appropriate instructions, I assumed were there to adapt the bar to my stock arms, so that's what I used 'em for :) Just centered it up, measured and drilled a hole for mounting.
The last two pics are everything loosely mounted before dropping the truck down for final torquing. |
Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
The "L" brackets are used exactly the way you installed them.
I bet it drives alot nicer now. |
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