Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

I have pics of the entire Hydro boost and clutch slave cylinder mounted and then the inner fender mounted and how close the slave cylinder is but not touching to the inner fender well. It honestly looks like it came stock like this!!
With that said, for the brake lines from the adjustable Prop valve I am running -3AN fittings and flex tube to a custom mount that will be on the inner fender just below the prop valve and then typical hardline from this point to associated areas - both front brakes and then to the rear "tee" for the rear brakes. I like this idea because I want a universal removal area without hard lines and I think it cleans up the area also. I can bend and route the hard lines to look good and follow the frame and inner fender well to this junction point. I know it may be a bit confusing, but it will make sense shortly, well at least to me. lol

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

OK, so help here please!

I got the Hydro boost Brake and Hydraulic Clutch system all installed, looks great and will work perfect, THANK YOU CaptainFab!!!

Now onto more fun stuff... NOT

So on the SBC I have the March Pulley kit #22037-8. I am running AC and power steering pump (stock style - currently) and a power rack n pinion system, and this is where the pain in the butt part comes into play. Currently the power steering pump is actually hitting or near hitting the Rack steering universal joint! There is absolutely no room!! So, I have sent a message to March asking for help, maybe a mount that is higher for the pump, BUT I also stumbled onto what about using a GM Type 2 Pump and Res? I really like this setup and would prefer this pump anyways, but I need to make sure i can run this with the March setup. Is anyone running one of these pumps?

So i found that Unisteer performance has a complete kit for a Rack system on our trucks. I got mine from POL but this kit from Unisteer is everything, nice kit but a bit spendy - 8011920-01. With that said, they run a Type 2 pump, have a mount for it and have the parts and routing for the steering shaft that I need. I sent them a message asking for some help from them, hopefully they will sell me the steering shaft mount and the power steering pump mount without all the rest.

Speedway has a Type 2 pump with -6AN fittings which is what i want for a decent price.

It is fun to build these trucks. I love having an issue and then finding the solution, damn it would be nice if the solution was not spendy... lol

Anyways, any help here is greatly appreciated.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

I looked into the Unisteer kit, but found that the kit (including the pump and brackets) is configured for short water pumps only. The pump mount may not work for you if you have long pump and pulleys.

I'm definitely going to pay attention to your solution. I have a POL rack on order, it should get here in a few weeks. I have a long water pump and the normal Saginaw pump, but will be using brackets from Alan Grove. I will need to check the U-joint clearance once I have it all here.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

As soon as i get some info I'll let you know. I appreciate the info on the unisteer kit for short pump. I have a long pump as you. I found a few options for a GM type 2 mount that shoukd fix the issue, but no idea yet. I'll be interested in what march says. One way or another. I'll get a fix and pass on the info. That kit by the way firm POL is really cool.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Ok, oh damn what an adventure! BUT I think i have seen the light... or at least a glimpse. LOL
So, I spoke with UniSteer about the kit they offer and Arne they do offer the kit for long and/or short water pump. With that said, I was then very interested in the Type 2 power steering pump mount they have and they are cool enough to just sell me that part(s). Then I was asking them about the Heim joint bracket that bolts to the frame and then the DBL D shaft goes through. The agreed to sell me just the bracket to hold the Heim joint (I already bought one). FYI I found these parts and how they assemble their kit on their website in relation to the rack they offer for our trucks - 8011920-01.

So with that said, it is very important that I explain my whole system. So I have a Small Block (383ci) with Long Water pump, POL Rack n pinion kit, Hydro Boost kit, Disc brakes all around, and HAD a standard small block Power Steering Pump and a March Pulley's sport pulley system. I say all this because I had an interference issue with the Power steering pump reservoir and outlet fitting hitting the universal joint on the steering shaft. So, with that said, I decided to go with a different setup of the power steering pump and change over to a GM Type 2 Pump, easy enough, right!?! NOPE!! So I have the new (coming in the near future) Type 2 pump mount from Unisteer. This is great, BUT I am not sure what pulley I need, yes there are about 1000 different pulleys, it really is crazy... SO, I bought one from Speedway that is universal and has a reservoir on it with -6an in and out, and I will use the PTFE steel braided hose I have that I used for my fuel line (the line pressure is below the rating of this hose). This is all good, EXCEPT after alot of research typically a Powered Rack wants lower pressure than what a Type 2 standard pressure puts out. Typically a standard Type 2 is 1300 lbs pressure and a typical rack wants 800 - 900 lbs. If you have excessive pressure the rack will act very quick, scary quick and possibly dangerous. So, after reading an article by Hot Rod magazine in 2021 by Marlan Davis, if using a type 2 pump with Hydro boost and a rack, you will need to install a Heidts PS-101 Power steering pump adjustable valve. Well yipee... more $$$, but it is what is needed to make it work right, so .... This valve allows you to adjust the pressure going to the rack to fine tune the steering response, so it is needed. At $135.00 it better work. LOL

Anyways, so I think I have the system figured out mostly, just need to get the pump mount, pump itself in and mounted and then see what offset is needed to make it all work, then get the correct pulley ordered.

I have a hose kit that I bought with my Hydro-boost that well i may not use now, but I will look into that when everything is here.

More to come as I get it. lol

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Waiting to see what you end up with. My new Alan Grove steering pump brackets arrived today, but I probably won't get to a test fit for a couple days. Will let you know how they go.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

I appreciate that. I will for sure keep you up to date on this.. lol if i can help even in the slightest itsxworth it

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

I was wrong, I found time to test fit today. They fit correctly to the engine, and both pulley grooves line up properly. Of course, I don't know about steering shaft and u-joint clearance since I don't have my rack yet.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

So, i have multiple parts coming for the re-alignment of the power steering pump, along with a new pump and reservoir, mount and such. That will continue the 1966 power steering system

Now with that said I have been working on my 1969 C10 with an LS from time to time (it is for sale, or was). One issue I had with it is with the Holley Terminator X Max fuel injection wiring and brain. The initial setup from Holley was good and then I had Andrew (well known tuner for the Terminator kit) tune it and damn that was great then. So with that said, I was having an issue with it running rich for some reason, so a call to Andrew and 3 min on the tune and he found a vacuum issue. This was caused by a broken vacuum nipple on the Holley vacuum line. Called Holley and they do not have a part number for it, BUT they are sending me a new one for free. Meanwhile i have the original one being super glued, going to see about getting a brass one also. Anyways just wanted to post this here for anyone that has the Terminator X kit, pay very close attention to this nipple and placement. It was working at one time but the bouncing may have caused the issue.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Ok, well what a time it has been trying to figure out the best way to do this power steering pump setup. I got the brackets to do the install for a GM Type 2 power steering pump along with a Long Water pump setup, and matching the dual Serpentine crank pully from my March Pully kit. I got a type 2 pump from Speedway WITH a reservoir attached and have since learned that in no way will this work with the Powered Rack I have, BUT a remote reservoir pump will! So I ordered a new Type 2 pump with 6an out and 10an in and a remote reservoir. along with 10an PTFE hose and fittings. I bought a serpentine pump pulley (part number Dorman 300-301) that looks like it will work! The pump mount I got from Unsteer appears to allow me to move the pump closer or further away from the block in small increments to lineup with the March Pulley, so that is making this easier. It has been some time and effort to make it all work, but it is really coming together. So if anyone needs or wants more detail on all this, let me know and i will get you all the info.
Pics coming of the install...
Also got all my fitting for the brake lines, so starting that install this weekend. Pics coming

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Damnit Dave Kindig and *****in Rides!! I had the idea for exhaust through the bed!!! Copy cat... lol
Beautiful truck the built

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Ok, Update time with Pics!!

The first set of pics are of the issue that I found (I may have posted before, but this is for a comparison anyways). This issue has to do wit the Rack, "Old School power steering pump" and the steering rod.
As you can see in first pics, the old school pump is way to large to allow the steering rod to reach and operate the rack.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

This next set of pics is of the routing for the steering arm. Some parts are from the full kit that Unisteer sells. It get close to the headers, but not bad. 1/4" or more clearance. BUT You must add an alteration to the frame.... as you can see.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

These next pics are of the new Type 2 Power Steering Pump that will have a remote reservoir. Also, you can see that I need to make a slight addition to the frame AGAIN for the 10AN fitting elbow that is on it way. This new pump lines up great with the March Crank pully and I will have full adjustability with it.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Overall, I am very pleased with how it all came out. Took alot of time, ordering parts just to return the parts ... lol Anyways, If anyone needs part #s or help with doing the same install, please feel free to message me, more than happy to help as I can.

With all that said, As I mentioned earlier, I am still waiting on some parts... the upper universal joint is not the correct size on one end (it is 1" not 3/4" DBL D) but I made it work for mock up, the 10AN PTFE hose and fittings I am still awaiting.

Other than that, all is going good.

One question left though for you all, it is in and shown in next message.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

OK, So I have been looking high and low for how the heck the Steering column attaches to the bracket under the dash! I have the kit for the outside mount in and mounted, but I will be if I can find the parts or how the underside of the dash inside the cab is done in relation to how to secure the steering column to the bracket. See pic attached. There are two slits in the bracket that I am sure have something to do with... It is as if a large hose clamp would work .... but ??

Thanks for any help you have!!!

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Well Crap, it appears that there are two holes in the steering column that bolts go into. I have an after market steering column that does not have any... so... what to do.. Ideas?!?!

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Nothing to add other than, apart from the issues, looking rather good.

P. :D

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Still following the steering shaft bit. My POL rack still hasn't arrived as yet, but I have the pump mounted using an Alan Grove bracket kit. It looks fine, but I don't know what the shaft clearance is going to be like.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

I made a curved piece of 1/8" steel that I threaded for bolts, and slipped the curved steel inside the '68 column I used in my '61, plug welding it to the column housing.

Also took the opportunity to move the column closer to the dash (I had drilled three sets of holes, for testing), or at least until the NSS got close to the firewall.

Apparently I took no photos of this.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

That's real engineering, great work.
I can't help with the steering column. I'm sure you solve it.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

I am at the same point with my aftermarket steering column. I figured I would just drill and tap the column for a couple bolts. The holes drilled just fine but I have stripped out 3 taps so far. Not sure what kind of steel the column is made of but it sure is hard!

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

I wrapped my column with a piece of rubber about 2" long right where those holes are. After I tightened up the bracket its not going anywhere.

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

Sounds good. The main issue with the power steering is how it mounted and hit the universal joint for the rack. I tried a Gen 2 type pump with the reservoir attached and that too hit, so I got this Gen 2 type with remote reservoir. It is alot of hose running but I do not mind that, I just use PFTE hose. The other thing to note is that you must reduce the pressure from the pump. Stock GM is 1200 to 1300 lbs and the typical rack wants 800. They sell what the call a ford pressure pump that is for GM, this has the reduced pressure or you can buy the reducing valve that installs into the pump. In my case though, I need the higher pressure for the Hydroboost, but then need to reduce it, so I had to buy the Heidts valve to be able to adjust he pressure to the rack as I like. It has been an adventure learning all this about the pump, hydorboost and a rack system .

Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
 

SkinnyG
Thanks for the idea. I was thinking of doing similar. still looking at ideas... lol I do have my steering wheel as close to the dash as possible currently, this for my larger frame but also so that as i figure out the steering shaft in the engine compartment I will have some possible movement away from the dash if needed in future, if that makes sense.