Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I’m building a 51 GMC with the S10 swap. I’m using a 6.0 and 8.8 rearend. What drive shaft are y’all using. Thank you. God bless y’all

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

it really will depend on where you put the motor mounts. I use a 4.3 4l60e and the stock s10 rear and a 53" shaft works out for me, but I also move the motor back about 10 inches from stock. if I only moved it back 9, I would need a 54" shaft to fit the same.

also with an 8.8 you will need an adapter/conversion joint. If I were you I would put the engine/trans in, make sure the lowering components are installed, get the weight on the frame and measure center of yoke to center of yoke with the trans yoke sticking out about an inch and a half. that will be your length.

I bought the dirty dingo slider mounts but it made my motor and truck look like plane. I had to make a mount plate that bolts up to the original mount and then bolt up the slider mount onto the plate to push my motor back into the fire wall. So I believe I did the same as you. Thanks. I will measure everything once I get the motor back in it
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Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Interesting business idea, and maybe helpful for home builders.
Ebay seller is apparently building S10 chassis on which buyers can drop their 47-54 Chevy pickup bodies. Looks like he's using one of the pre-man kits, with drop spindles and 4" rear blocks, all rebuilt:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1947-1954-c...temCondition=4

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

He had the frame built for a 1950 truck he was going to do. His project is now on hold and he is selling the frame.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Oh thanks. I assumed someone was building these commercially. Hard to imagine someone would get that far into it and abandon the whole chassis.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

This thread is more the DIY type. That kit on that frame is from a known frame swap company. they actually do offer frames with their kits for way less than this ebay one.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

There's a seller on ebay, TADDCOM, that provides driveshafts with proper yokes, new u joints, balanced. Using your trans yoke, the shaft is 200 plus shipping. Mine was 239 total.
I ordered mine on a Thursday, received it on the following Monday. You call with your c/c length and u-joint type.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Hi all. New to the site. Found this thread last year when looking for tips for my '49 panel/ S10 swap. I had already purchased the Code504 kit but this thread was instrumental in brake assembly, steering column, and many other details. I got hooked on the concept, my friend saw my '49 and wanted me to do something with his '34 dodge yard ornament. So it's on a shortbed S10 chassis with the 4.3 auto TBI setup. Started tearing his truck and the donor S10 apart in September. Just drove the build around the block last week. Brakes/cab/ running gear only to this point. I am totally hooked on the swap thing. My 49 drives like a dream at 75 down the highway. My next project is a '54 totally intact 3 window 3100 that a tree fell on back in the '60's. Been sitting ever since. It gets an old school pre-computer small block, The 700r4 from the '92 S10 donor, and a C4 vette rear that I've already gotten. Chris I sure appreciate all the tips, my '54 is getting your mounts of course. Half of the 504 kit pieces are in the corner being used as materials...bumper mounts, a couple of the crossmembers etc. Hope you are continuing well in your recovery. ...Take care,
Dennis

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Here's the '49 and the 34 Dodge behind it lol

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Found a ZR2 rear end from an S10. It has 3.73 gears, a locker and an 8.5" ring gear. Has anyone used one of these?

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Robert, not sure where I got this info, but I think from this site.

2 wheel drive WMS to WMS is 54.5"

4 wheel drive WMS to WMS is 59 to 60"

ZR2 WMS to WMS is 63"

It will depend on wheel backspacing, vehicle it's going into, etc...Jim

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

thats a great rear end, it will bolt right in. the only thing I dont like, and its a really shallow nitpicky thing, is how wide it is. it is 3 inches wider than a regular 4x4 rear, and that works nice for getting the wheels out there to fill up the fenders, but its about 5 1/2-6" inches wider than the front end so even if you use 1 1/2"-2" spacers on the front it looks a lot wider in the rear. its just my personal thing, it may not even matter to you, especially if you use 3" spacers on the front.

the 8.5 rear is super strong, you could run big block torque in it.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Think we are going to run a 350 ci, 325 hp with a T400. That is kind of why I was looking into it. Saw a picture on another site, using stock wheels and it did push the tires out, but not too far that they might rub on the outside of the fender.

I had not thought about the difference in the front and back. I'm glad I asked. I have some more "thinking" to do.

Thanks guys.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Great rear end for sure, hard to find them. I have one Im putting in my 51' can't wait bc the ol' one wheel drive rear end really sucked. Guy on here has a great example of this rear end in a bagged 52'. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...448842&page=39

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I've seen a couple of pics on other forums of the ZR2 under an AD and it looked good. The one you linked shows how it fits really nice.

Now to figure out what to do with the width of the front end, without larger spacers.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

depends on your rims. here is a truck I did with 4x4 rear end and 2" spacers in rear on each side and no spacers up front. these are stock 14" s10 steel rims with I think 4" offset. I personally like some tuck up front. Depending on the angle you view the truck it looks better or worse.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

I'm have a ZR2 axle under my pickup, but I also have a custom bed and am running 10" wide wheels on the back.

Gives me the "dually" look I wanted.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Ok, my first post and a simple question. I have been thru this complete thread several times. My question is should the cab basically be level with frame in the center section? (I'm sure that this has been addressed and I'm just missing it) I know the frame drops slightly as it goes toward the front mount. I will know soon as I have my mounts tacked in place. So much info! Thanks!

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

yes, the FLOOR will be level with the top of the straight part of the frame.

you can also stand back from the side and the bottom of the rocker will be parallel to the bottom of the frame in the straight part. although this can be misleading if you arent straight on, because the cab gets wider as it goes back, so any misalignment in viewing angle will make it appear unlevel. my advice is to hold a camera level and take a picture, it takes away the foreshortening.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Thanks joedoh! I actually found your answer shortly after I gave up and posted my question. Your post #832 mentions it.
Also for anyone looking, my S10 mounts were lost and the best deal I have found on a set of mounts was at Summit.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/opg-sb614k

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

did they come with the steel parts or do you have to reuse them from the originals? I used energy suspension mounts but they do not come with the steels.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

Yes they come with the steel spacers, washers, nuts and bolts! They are smaller than factory. I believe I punched a 1 5/8" hole in my mounting plates.

Re: S10 Swap how to
 

rustomod, I’m glad you’re finding lots of use for your newfound knowledge and that’s exactly what should be done with that crappy 504 kit. feels much better when you do your own fab, doesn’t it?
lmuelly, follow my build instructions exactly. I’ve never so much as had a bolt not fit, and I’ve built hundreds.
And thank you, the recovery is going well. in fact I’m hoping to make a pretty big announcement fairly soon. I’ll just leave it at that.