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Re: Kabwe's aka Bam's build
Bam, good to hear from you again, I was just thinking we hadn't hear from you in awhile...Jim
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Bam,
Are you using automotive grade paint for those suspension parts? Or is it rattle can stuff? Whatever it is, it looks goood! |
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The suspension parts were painted with Eastwood Rust Encapsulator thinned 20% with lacquer thinner and shot through a spray gun. I did not shot over rust I simply don't believe in doing that I just cleaned the parts up really nice sanded with 180 grit and shot them. Here is a pic of what they looked like in bare metal. Why the Eastwood Rust Encapsulator? No reason other than I had some laying around not getting used and I wanted to see what it looked like. I like the flat black finish. It seems quite durable after it's cured and its easy to touch up. How durable? I don't know but its only control arms time will tell. I shot the frame with single stage satin black and that is very durable. http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8198/8...1d188f8c94.jpg |
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So you went over them w/an automotive paint or a single stage (cheaper)finish like Rustoleum w/ a hardner? As for "not painting over rust" - I couldn't agree more BUT I have a question: My doors have some rust-through (of course). I'm gonna cut it out and weld in patches. But that will not TOTALLY do away with all the rust. So I'm thinking I either have to R&R the lower 4-6" of door skin, sand the rust off and replace the skin - a lot of work for a lousy welder, but I'm willing IF I can do it properly. Of course I'd use a weld-thru primer inside. OR, I can cut out the rust-through and use that opening and the interior openings for my little Craftsman sandblaster and CAREFULLY blast the lower inside of the door before applying the KBS I have. I suppose I could just splash the interior of the door with Ospho for a day or two and THEN put the KBS on(?) What's your advice - given my limited abilities, NOT your very strong abilities? |
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Dan in Pasadenea
'' I AGREE with you. I've always been able to do what I set my mind to. Perhaps not to someone else's standards, but I figure only MY standards count as I'm the one who spent the cash and has to live with the results! I just know that I want the things I do to come out perfect the first time. I'm impatient '' Dan remember -''Patience is a virture until people make it a science '' |
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+ Dan - it;ll all come out fine
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Hey I went thru the build again and the only pictures of the fuel tank are where you painted it. could you take a picture of the rear view with bumper installed. Or can you tell me if you can see the tank below the bumper. It is time to get the tank. Thanks in advance.
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Hey my friend, what's been going on with the 58? I haven't seen any updates lately. Hope all is well and have a great New Years!
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I did get the fuel lines done. I was going to go with all hard line until I tried to bend 3/8 stainless steel.lol I damn near got a hernia.lol So what I did was run braided stainless steel lines on all the bends and curves in the rear and then ran a 37 degree flared hardline to the front that is a straight shot. It came out pretty nice. I will post pics when I get a chance to get back in the garage. I have a lot of stainless steel tubing left that I will use on other areas of the truck when I get a better tube bender. |
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My fuel lines are 3/8 braided stainless steel for the supply and return that is on the corvette regulator/filter to another 3/8 braided stainless steel supply line that goes over all the bends and turns and then I have a straight shot that allowed me to use a 3/8 hardline that runs the length of the frame. I wanted to run that hardline over all the bends and turns but as you know 3/8 stainless steel tubing is a mother to bend and it was just too many bends so I went with a flexible stainless steel line to the hardline. I totally agree that steel or nickle lines with out last all of us.lol |
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Hey BAM, got any recommendations on fittings for the braided to s/s hard lines? I'm at that stage on mine (actually haven't done anything since receiving the hard lines a few months back - I know, I know..) and ready to kick it up again. Thanks, Jim
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Tube sleeves http://www.jegs.com/images/mini_100/...361-581903.jpg Tube Nuts http://www.jegs.com/images/mini_100/...361-581804.jpg What you do is install the sleeve and nut and then flare you tubing with a 37 degree flaring tool (the tool must be rated for stainless if you are using stainless. That some strong stuff). The sleeve slide up to the flare and the the nut over the sleeve. Union fitting http://www.jegs.com/images/mini_100/...1-AT981506.jpg By the way here is my flaring tool it works great and the flares are perfect. http://www.plumbersstock.com/files/x...ault/98394.jpg |
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Nice to see you back at it, say can you tell me what made you decide to use a parallel 4 link? I'm trying to decide on weather to just use blocks and air over leafs like "58 GMC" or a triangulated ,parallel, or wishbone type link set up, my chief concern is maintaining fender clearance ( i have 1/2" )through 5-6" of travel since I intend to bag the rear also, and I know the parallel set up allows some lateral movement but can't seem to find any info on how much?
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Hey I have been looking for one of those flaring tool thing-a-mug-jigs to use when im flaring my mufflers and intake manifold. Can I borrow it? LMAO!!!!! |
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I did not get much done over the holidays but luckily I was able to get the stainless steel fuel lines installed. I still need to install the internal fuel pump that recent came in the mail. Honey dos are killing me.
Anyway here you go http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8224/8...fd701e5ccd.jpg http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8186/8...8085331d93.jpg http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8492/8...0ddfa87fc5.jpg http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8222/8...7957711b2d.jpg |
Re: Kabwe's aka Bam's build
Looking good Bam.
Kim |
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Hi Bam. A belated Merry Chrstmas and a Happy New Year.
Why stainless? Any trouble with splitting, bending it? I've read horror stories on other threads about this. What brand/type bender are you using? Edit: Oops, NEVERMIND! Helps if you go back and read the author's prior posts, huh? lol. |
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Those are some nice neat lines your running. Now one thing I notice your prop valve, did not know you could run them upside down.
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Geez Vdog,
It must be hard on you being wrong all the time, I feel for you man.lol There are in and out ports that are clearly labelled and its flowing in the correct direction. |
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I guess it was more of seeing them mounted right side up. |
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http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1346826593 If it stinks everywhere you go, well maybe its just you.lol I feel for you man, sometimes a mind can be a terrible thing.lol All jokes aside, how is your build coming along? Have you gotten anything done recently? |
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This weekend im going to get the suspension parts from CPP. Thats it. |
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Hi Kabwe and fellow enthusiasts. Congratulations on your beloved truck. I'm envious of your talent. Your build inspired me to sign up after I read most of this enormous thread. Anyway, I've got an old 56 small window longbed with a rust problem. I sanded it down with velcro style sanding pads using my drill about 12 years ago (before I sold it) and sprayed regular spray can primer on some spots and etching primer on the hood (yellow tint) but the rust is back. Now I've re-acquired the truck and am looking to get serious about the body. My questions are this: what did you use to sand down the body? What kind of primer/paint do you use to seal it? Do you recommend products like POR 15 to treat it? It's mostly just surface rust.
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Surly you're not going to rin that paint are you??? Those paint jobs take years to develope.
Just say no to POR15!! Repower & drive it like it is. R46 |
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If you want to keep the rust I'm not the one to ask its not for me or what I do. As far as what I use to get rid of rust. I had my cab media blasted (be picky if you go this route and only work with guys experienced in blasting cars), but all other items I removed the rust myself with a DA sander and some phosphoric acid for the hard to remove stuff.
What I use to protect the metal? I like 2k epoxy primer. Do you have an air compressor? If you do you can buy a cheap Harbor Freight spray gun to to shoot the primer. As far as Por15, I know guys who swear by it, but as for me I don't use it. I remove all traces of rust that is within my reach. Build your truck the way you want and don't worry about what others would do. If anybody tells you to do something to your truck that you personally don't want to do tell them to step off. Its your time and money and you are the only one that has to like it. I would never tell someone what to do with their cars but I will share any information I have that could help them accomplish their goals. Their goals not mine. So feel free to ask me and if I have the answer I will be happy to share. By the way nice truck you have there and welcome to the site. |
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Bam, you are the king of appropriate responses and political correctness. Going for a political career? BTW nice work on your truck |
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I actually think I'm not being politically correct. Lately, it seems political correctness is for people to think just because they like something everyone should like it.
I went to car show this weekend and heard a lot of that. Its my petpeeve it really is. Be glad for anyone building anything and keeping this hobby alive. |
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Kabwe, very good advise on building your truck the way you want it and not the way everybody else would. Because you will never please everyone. It keeps them all different.
Shannon |
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As to your truck, I've been following your build and it's really nice to see another example of someone paying a lot of attention to detail, doing things the way they want, and doing things correctly! Just my opinion!! don |
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One thing that stands out in your build is you try to think things thru and do it right the First time. I've gotten a lot of really good ideas from following your build. Thanks for the help!
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