Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Would even leave you a little room for air fittings :D How's that Blazer coming along?

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

There won't be air fittings on the truck when I am done with it. Hell, it may not even have a solid rear axle.;)

The Blazer is fighting me every step of the way. Of course, I'm trying to make sure everything is PERFECT, like you do, so some things I've had to do multiple times before I was happy with it. I have conceded to the fact that I will get the air ride and Accuair done before Cruisin' the Coast, but will have to hold off on getting the rear axle narrowed until this winter. That means no 20" gassers until then.:whine: It'll still look good with the 17" slots for now though.

On another note, I have a Kore3 brake setup F/R for a 2nd gen Camaro (GM TS 14" hybrid front and 10/12 bolt 13" Z51 rear) that is just laying around. You used a GM TS setup from Kore3 and bolted it up directly to a C10 LD spindle correct? If so, I may replace my drop spindles and the Blazer get bigger brakes when the 20's go on this winter.:metal:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Intrigued! Where is the build thread?
No perfection here, just creative photography :lol: I used to strive for perfection, but it's too stressful of a pursuit. I also don't share many of my failures or how long some of these things actually take...
I did use a tall spindle kit, but made for an impala to get the 5x5 pattern. I used LD Belltech 73-87 spindles. Yours sounds like it should work well, but I'd shoot Tobin a quick email to confirm. You'll likely need new brackets for the truck axle out back, but otherwise, I think, good to go.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Speaking of things that take longer than intended, I got the framerails trimmed for final notch fit, then primed/painted the bare metal and proceeded to drill a BOATLOAD of 7/16" holes to attach the radius notches and bridge. I used an old trick of dropping a 1/4" nut in the holes to center my pilot--worked out great!

Looks like not a lot of progress, but it's all final installed and torqued, and fits like butta. It's time now to remove the offending sections of framerail getting in the way of super-static lowness :metal:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Never thought of doing that while drilling. Excellent.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Those notches look great in there, I love watching your builds come together. You seem way more organized than me. :lol:

No build thread, I haven't touched it since I got the Blazer, except to move it around the shop. I'm seriously contemplating using a C6 manual trans-axle with one of Dobbertin Performance's cradles when I get back on the truck.

It's amazing how long a simple task takes when you can only spend a couple of hours a night working on it... Oh yeah, my photography skills suck, that's why I haven't been posting on my thread, plus nobody wants to see pictures of me cussing at things that don't fit right or bolts/nuts that strip out! :lol:

I already have the 5 x 4.75 BC on the Blazer, and I might as well narrow the 8.5" 10-bolt that is in the other truck since it already has a brand new 3.73 Posi setup in it.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Feel free to use it; pretty sure it's a trick I learned here somewhere. I think when I saw it, they were using it to center punch, but ain't nobody got time fo' dat :chevy:
Thanks, they do look awesome! I just clean up before I snap pics ;)
Solid plan, I think your brake kit will bolt up with no issues if you're using a car axle. I envy your blazer. Immensely.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

sweet:metal:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks! I'm really liking the quality and ease of installation of these porterbuilt pieces, plus they just look BA!

Took the plunge today and removed a big ol' chunk of framerail :D Time to figure out fuel tank mounting, fuel/brake line plumbing, and hang the axle.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Hung the TAXM, then slung the axle back underneath. She's square and centered at ride height and almost ready to re-meet mother earth.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I like these two pics at mock-up ride height. The axle now resides where the framerails used to--she's gonna be low :D

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Looks good!

I like the fact that you still have the hitch bolted up!:metal:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks, I needed a rear crossmember; the PB tubular is $100--this one is already paid for :lol:. Probably too low to actually tow anything--maybe it will help protect the tank :confused:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

just turn the drop hitch upside down, then it would be a raised hitch... :lol: Looks good though!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Looks awesome Chris, can't wait to see the ride height when's it's back on the ground.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

looking AWESOME!!!!!!!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Wow, that was quick!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I was already doing that before. Now I guess I'd need another 4" of drop hitch (or a lowered trailer). Good thing the Jeep has a tow package...
Me too, I took a few quick measurements and I think it's gonna sit nice and low :D
Thanks! Pretty stoked here, too
That's what a 4-day weekend gets ya when your wife is taking 3 graduate classes. Lotsa time to entertain myself, haha

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Little more progress and she is back on her feet and very near terra firma! In these shots, the coilovers are as low as they will go and still not in the sweet spot at mid-stroke. It will come down another 3/4 to full inch once it's all back together :metal:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

It's a little hard to tell but judging by the back of the cab it looks like you'll be around a 6" ride height? That sounds about perfect to me. ;)

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I'm thinking 6.5" or so, but that remains to be seen. My goal is to be around "bagged on stock suspension" dumped height :)

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Sounds good.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Looks great! I'm running the PB coilover 4 link rear with the touring notches on my 66 so I'll have a similar ride height (whenever I get done with rust repair...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I'd love to see it. Looks like Photobucket killed your thread...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Chris, Here is the fix for photobucket I use goggle chrome on my computer. I did a google search for photobucket fix and there was this from google chrome: https://chrome.google.com/webstore/d...fegnfnflicjjgj
I clicked on it and at the top right there is a blue box that says add to chrome. so I clicked on it and that is all I did. now I can see all the pictures in the build threads on this forum and others.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

This is cool, thanks!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Chris, I think I'm more excited to see yours done and back together more than mine.:c2:

That works flawlessly! Thanks!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Frame's looking good Chris! I think you'll be sitting lower than I will aired out in the back with my factory frame rails.

That's awesome! I use Firefox, so I looked and found the same thing here: https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/fir...ed-fix/?src=ss

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Likewise. Too bad we don't live closer, we could work out an exchange program :lol:
That's what I'm after--I want it to make people scratch their heads. Maybe even a custom plate: ALTYMLO or NOTBAGD...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I created a new "continued" thread with a bunch of pictures in it but skipped all of the details. Link in my sig

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

My Boyd welding tank showed up, so I dropped it between the 'rails. This thing is high quality and worth every penny. Now I can work on plumbing fuel and brake lines :smoke:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Plumbed the fuel and brake lines over the notches--what a pain... not as pretty as some I've seen, but they'll do the job

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Damn pretty in my opinion! :metal: My least favorite thing to do. I had to be different and went through the notches with my fuel lines. Turned out clean but will never do it again lol

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I thought about doing them inside, but decided for the sake of time and the fact that this is not anywhere near a show truck that I would go the easy(er) route. Glad to be done with the hard part

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

...and got the tank mounted. It mounted on top of the notches, since that's the only available space and keeps it tucked nicely up out of harm's way. With it being on top of the 'rails, I had to trim out an area for the bed risers to fit and use a 3/16" spacer on the rearmost bolts to account for the thickness of the notches. Now I can work on final routing of fuel lines :chevy:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Looking good!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Awesome progress Chris! Digging all of the upgrades!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Very nice!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks dudes! I may tear into the front this weekend as I'm reaching a point of details only on the rear and can't progress much without driveshaft mockup.

My wife caught me slipping the other day while I was working on the old girl, I had no idea she was there. Apparently I was "in the zone" :lol:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Little before and after of the beginning of teardown of the front. Unfortunately, I found some rust in the driver's cowl area, so there will be some unplanned sheetmetal work. May be a good time to go ahead and shave the firewall, we'll see...