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-   -   Daverods 52 (https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=448842)

Strodder 01-02-2013 04:31 PM

Re: Daverods 52
 
Looks like they are adjustable push rods for the power brake unit? :uhmk:

daverod 01-02-2013 04:59 PM

Re: Daverods 52
 
So do I need them? I hooked everything up I didnt see anywhere to put them?

99 to Life 01-02-2013 05:13 PM

Re: Daverods 52
 
you sure those are for your brakes? Looks like the needles for a carb.

99 to Life 01-02-2013 05:18 PM

Re: Daverods 52
 
oh and what brake set up you have? You gotta bench bleed the MC before you hook the lines up. Then bleed brakes from Rear to front and cylinder farthest away from MC. I had a problem getting fluid to my cylinders and it was killing me, rebled the MC and that stuff came gushing out. Once you bench bleed they say hook it up and bleed system asap I waited months and that was probably my problem.

daverod 01-02-2013 07:19 PM

Re: Daverods 52
 
bench bleed? Its in so should I just disconnect the lines then bledd it and hook the lines up again? The parts came with the MC just no instructions. maybe just left over parts?

99 to Life 01-02-2013 08:37 PM

Re: Daverods 52
 
1 Attachment(s)
well, do you have a pic of your MC? if you have lines that run off your MC into a proportioning valve you can use them and leave the MC hooked up to the truck. IF you have those (see pic), take some rubber hose and put it on the ends of these little brake lines, put both lines in the MC reservoir so they are fully submerged in fluid. Then have someone push your pedal while your lines are submerged, pump until you see no more bubbles. Or if you take it off, just take big screwdriver or something and push the plunger. Same concept either way. this will solve your problem most likely. Your proportioning valve most likely won't cause you any issues, just bleed the MC then hook up all your lines and you should be good to go with bleeding all your lines.

daverod 01-03-2013 09:03 AM

Re: Daverods 52
 
last night I tried just unhooking the lines from the mc and pumping the brakes. very little came out. I did find a couple leaks so there is fluid getting in the lines. My p valve is only on my rearline and its under the truck.

99 to Life 01-03-2013 09:53 AM

Re: Daverods 52
 
dave, well you can still have fluid in your lines when your MC needs re bled. So if you pumped it and not much came out, there is your main problem. Did you flair any of the lines on the truck? If you have leaks after all that, could be your flairs. Your valve in the back lines could be a residual valve which keeps a little bit of pressure on the back breaks since you have drum breaks. I'd give that MC a good bleeding and hook it back up, key note, don't ever let the fluid run too low in the MC when bleeding or you'll have to bench bleed the MC again and re bleed the whole system.

daverod 01-03-2013 10:06 AM

Re: Daverods 52
 
I thought more fluid should come out. All my lines are store bought. Disks in the back with a p valve on that line. I guess Ill just hook up some short lines out of the mc put some hoses on those and run them back into the top of the mc. Then pump the air out and hook everything back up?

99 to Life 01-03-2013 10:13 AM

Re: Daverods 52
 
yeah you got it, you'll have brakes in no time if you do that.

daverod 01-03-2013 10:23 AM

Re: Daverods 52
 
-14 brr good day to turn on the heat:devil: and work on brakes.:mm: Surprising how much heat you can get just by running the engine for awhile.

Strodder 01-03-2013 10:54 AM

Re: Daverods 52
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by daverod (Post 5793017)
-14 brr good day to turn on the heat:devil: and work on brakes.:mm: Surprising how much heat you can get just by running the engine for awhile.

Good thing you have those exhaust hoses installed. :uhmk:
One tip with the master cylinder is make sure there is a little free play in the brake pedal. No play or too tight can affect bleeding by not letting the master cylinder piston to return all the way. That's why that rod is adjustable. Just a tip incase you didn't know that. ;)
STAY WARM MY FRIEND!!

daverod 01-03-2013 11:19 AM

Re: Daverods 52
 
Thanks .You do know I dont know chit.:lol: Your help is the only reason I made it this far.:mm:

daverod 01-03-2013 11:21 AM

Re: Daverods 52
 
You dont think that piston looking thing is spost to go inside the mc anywhere?

99 to Life 01-03-2013 11:32 AM

Re: Daverods 52
 
strodder, good point, maybe thats why they say bench bleed it first, that way your definitely bleeding it without other variables. Daverod, either way you do it you should see lots of bubbles, bleed until you don't see any bubbles and you should be good to go. this weather blows, had nothing but rain rain rain, begged for some snow and got too much snow and have to shovel everywhere I go. not to mention the cold will totally kill your work buzz.

Strodder 01-03-2013 11:55 AM

Re: Daverods 52
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by daverod (Post 5793123)
You dont think that piston looking thing is spost to go inside the mc anywhere?

Is this what your talking about?

http://www.classicperform.com/TechBo...er_adapter.gif

Strodder 01-03-2013 11:57 AM

Re: Daverods 52
 
This is from CPP
Check Booster Pushrod Adjustment

The pushrod that actuates the master cylinder must be properly adjusted. Ideally there should be only slight clearance between the booster pushrod and the master cylinder pushrod. Interference will preload the master cylinder. When the system is preloaded, it builds pressure each time the pedal is pressed. Since the master cylinder is not allowed to fully release the pressure from the previous stroke, the system will eventually lock the wheels. Too much clearance will cause excessive freeplay in the pedal. In almost every case, if you bought your booster and master cylinder from us, we pre-adjust the booster pushrod and master cylinder for you so this is not a problem.

To make 100% certain of a properly adjusted booster pushrod for your master, we offer a master cylinder depth gauge (PN: CP2003) to determine correct pushrod length. The following illustration demonstrates the proper usage of this tool. First measure the length that the booster pushrod extends past the face of the booster with the "head" of the pin. on the tool. Then measure the depth of the master cylinder piston with the other end of the pin on the tool. If the pin hits or there is too much space on step two, then adjustment is necessary.
http://www.classicperform.com/TechBo...just_tool1.gif

Strodder 01-03-2013 12:00 PM

Re: Daverods 52
 
Here's a link for more troubleshooting. ;)

http://www.classicperform.com/TechBo...just_tool1.gif

daverod 01-03-2013 01:27 PM

Re: Daverods 52
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Strodder (Post 5793187)

That's the piece. It came put together. I bet I was spose to take it apart and put that part in?

daverod 01-03-2013 01:46 PM

Re: Daverods 52
 
Works a lot better when you put the right parts in it. :metal::smoke:

99 to Life 01-03-2013 01:56 PM

Re: Daverods 52
 
learn something new everyday, didn't know they made a tool for this. great post

daverod 01-03-2013 02:45 PM

Re: Daverods 52
 
spose=suppost Did want Strodder thinking that was the way you spelt it.:lol: Thanks Guys I think I'm on my way to haven some brakes. I'll wait till the wife gets home then I'll have her bleed them.:lol:

daverod 01-03-2013 03:30 PM

Re: Daverods 52
 
3 Attachment(s)
:metal:Pumping some juice. One down 3 to go. and some goats.

Strodder 01-03-2013 03:36 PM

Re: Daverods 52
 
Have your wife test drive it too... :haha: :haha::haha:

daverod 01-03-2013 03:39 PM

Re: Daverods 52
 
1 Attachment(s)
We all went for a drive already. The dogs been on a few high speed runs.


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