Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Squirted some color on a few small parts today--really liking this VHT epoxy satin black. It has the perfect sheen and lays out really nicely. The control arms and rear disc brackets will head to the powder coater next week...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Nice parts ! and painted pieces are lookin good too. Vht is a good product, I use it and duplicolor as well. keep up the good work !

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

More nice parts. The paint looks good.
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Looking good! I like to see the Porterbuilt parts! My next build will have some for sure

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks! I've had good luck with their wrinkle finish, too.
Thanks- chipping away at it...
Thanks! I don't think yours is lacking in the handling dept. They are nice looking pieces- hopefully work as good as they look :chevy:
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Pulled the 'bags and installed the ECE 6" drop rear coils. Man, this thing is L-O-W...

The coils slipped right in like they belonged there and in conjunction with my 1.5" blocks give me 7.5" of rear drop, which is about 1.5 lower than where I had the airbags set before for the 'just right' rake. Not sure what the plan of attack is at this point, as I kinda like the lowered look, but would have to re-work shock mounts, bumpstops, and maybe exhaust to get it right--not to mention the work involved in getting the front down another inch to match :(

The ride is different--definitely feel more of the road than with 'bags, but not necessarily in a bad way, except when I hit a larger bump and it bangs the bumpstops. If it stays at this height, I'll fix that so it won't be a factor...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Here's before and after measurements of the rear wheel arch, as well a side view showing just how re-donk-u-lous it looks with the a$$ dragging the ground. I am NOT a fan of the 'cali-lean'. Also note how off-center the front wheels are--the PB arms should remedy most of this. I think I will wait until after I complete the trailing arm 'flip' before I plan any other drastic changes out back, as I'm pretty sure that mod will raise the rear an inch or so... :chevy:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Truck looks really good. Should be fun to drive!
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I love the way the rear looks, I would leave it like that and get the front down a little lower. What spring are you running in the front, maybe try a 3" lowering spring if your able too
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

You could just remove the 1.5" rear lowering blocks and see how you like it.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Or just machine the blocks to the height you need to fine tune the rear drop and achieve the "right" rake you're looking for.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I agree, bring the front down and your there.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I like it! With a little fine tuning I have no doubt that you will get it where you want it.

BTW, I'm adding the sway bar to my '63 this week so I will give you some "feedback" on the handling improvements.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

He would still have to re-work the shock mounts as the blocks help w/shock travel. It will be interesting to see where the height winds up after the relocating of the front T/A pivot.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks- I sure hope so after all of this
Front is currently a 1" drop Belltech trimmed to about 2" drop. If I do anything, I'd probably section the crossmember to bring it down and keep my ground clearance. This was supposed to be a simple project, though :lol:
Thought about that, but will probably wait 'til after the t-arm 'flip'
Likely will end up doing this following the flip
Part of me agrees, but the other part doesn't wanna deal with all of the custom fab required to get there...
Cool, let me know what you think--I was amazed at the difference
I agree- trying to minimize the amount of fab while still being super low is an exercise in futility. There's give/take while finding the balance. TA mount flip coming soon--I'll do it as a direct 1:1 comparison with no other changes, just for scientific purposes :chevy:
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

What's odd is that it looks like it's sitting level if you look at the top of the bed. Are your rims different diameters (too lazy to search)?

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

20" wheels all around, but with a slight tire rake; 28" front/29" rear...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Powder! Dropped off at lunch, picked up after work- how's that for service?! :chevy:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

That's outstanding service! Looks like very high quality coating too.
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Hey Gringoloco,

Nice build,

Quick question,
I thought I had this figured out the last time I talked to Nate in regards to the 1" forward arms. After reading your thread is it only the requirement of lower control arms to benefit the 1" forward? What is the difference on the uppers they sent you vs the uppers for a standard dropmember.

Thanks,
Chapster

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

They generally do great work- I will have to chase some threads and probably clean up the ball joint pockets, which they're normally really good about, but I'm not complaining- I have taken a hammer to their powder before, and it just conforms to the dents- no flaking/chipping at all...
I will be running lowers only, which will give more caster and less 'centering'. The upper arms were sent to me by accident, and are being returned :whine:

My understanding is that there are forward uppers as well as standard uppers depending on what you're looking for. I was looking for cheap :lol:
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Powdercoat looks awesome, should have done that to mine but I cheaped out and painted them.
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I thought about putting most of the parts in powder, but to save a few bucks, I only did the larger ones that required the durability.




Here's a dirty-hack p-shop of what I would be happy with for ride height up front to match the current rear. I think I'd be pretty close to the stock inners at this height, but I love the look...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I will be running lowers only, which will give more caster and less 'centering'. The upper arms were sent to me by accident, and are being returned :whine:

My understanding is that there are forward uppers as well as standard uppers depending on what you're looking for. I was looking for cheap :lol:
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Thanks for the clarification. That is what I understood from Nate but thought maybe I was missing something.

Cheers

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Who did the powder coating? If you don't mind what did they. Charge for the control arms and brackets?
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