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Re: 53 Surburban "Family Truckster"
Marc, nice console, hope it's something small on the starting issue...Jim
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Thank you Marc |
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Console turned out nice!
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Marc |
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Great progress Marc! You have got lots done since the last time I saw your build
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Marc |
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My family and I just got back from a Vaca to Arizona. When the trip needed to be rescheduled due to Caronia 1.0, I planned the trip around Dino's get down. If you know about the Get Down then you know. It has been one of those bucket list car shows for me. I was blown away. We also dropped in on Tre5 for a quick tour on our way into town. Tre5 has been a shop that I have admired for some time. They were very accommodating in showing me and my boys around. They build "Bad Apple" the drk green AD pictured. A lot of cool details in this one.
Great family trip....now lets see if I can't get this test fire accomplished. My phone is jammed full of pics of cool trucks. Here are a few of most body styles represented (I like them all). Thanks Marc |
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I have been picking away on the Suburban. I installed my column. No real surprises as I pre-assembled this a time ago. I was pleasantly surprised that I didn't scratch the column on the install. I have also been picking away on some of the wiring.
Thanks Marc |
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Nice. What kind of u-joints are those? I haven't seen any like that before.
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I will make it to the GITDOWN one day. im jealous of you going for sure.
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Marc |
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Wow Marc! I don't know where I have been? I missed so much of your build, but I'm all caught up now. You do amazing work with the paint and everything else.
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Nice work on the project! I as well want to get to Dino's! I'd like to do Dino's then the Good guy's show as well. I have no idea when that will ever happen though.
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Marc |
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Here are a few pics of my recent efforts. Since my tail lights are mounted in the rear doors, I chose to use Magnum Shooters to eliminate the need for wires passing thru from the body to the doors. I used these on my 48 because I had power windows and electronic door solenoids. They work great. They come in many varieties.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dak-mgs-3 I also added a pos & neg junction post to my removable fuse panel. This will allow for a ground or power source for additional accessories. One of my goals with this build was to do a better/more organized routing of the wiring than I did on my 48. I have rally tried to think this one thru. Thanks Marc |
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Very nice work, neat and clean.
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very nice,
I like how your wires exit the cab through the side kick panel, instead of the firewall. very smart, I wish I did that. |
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Thanks Marc |
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I was able to fish my front and rear wire assemblies to the front and rear in a wire loom through the frame, but I exited the cab below the booster, yours looks way better.
Keep up the good work, and thanks for sharing your ideas. (makes me think about the next one..... ??) |
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Tight work Marc, lookin great!!!!:metal:
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Very nice work!!! Has anyone had those door contact junctions on for a while? I wonder how they hold up over time? We have sprinters at work that use similar pieces and we have issues with them. I thought about using some of these on my 40 Ford but just couldn't decide. :lol:
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Ya I was MIA for a bit lol. It is not easy to make all the wiring look good, takes a lot of time and like you said you need to think it all out.
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Marc |
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Marc, nice job on the wiring, looks super...Jim
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That's nice these are adjustable. That changes my mind a bit. :lol:
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Since my contact where installed I went ahead and installed my 1950 Pontiac LED tail lights. I have 99% of the wires ran to the back. I think I just have license plate light wiring and a rear door jam switch left. I'm trying to concentrate on sections of the wiring. I find it easier to keep it organized.
Thanks Marc |
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That looks really cool! That's a good way to do the wiring, less chance of missing something.
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Those look really nice and period correct too. Very cool!
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One of the final fab items I needed to figure out was creating a cover on the rear suspension notch for the Watts link. When the Suburban is fully laid out the top of the Watts link extends up higher that the notch cover. I was always aware of this but in an effort to keep the size of the notch cover as small as possible I figure it would be best to make a cover that provides enough room to cover the watts link.
I plan to body work and paint this cover the interior color. That way I can cover the rest of the notch with carpet and the bolt on this cover. Keep in mind that this cover will be covered by the third row seat once in place. The only time it will be seen is when I don't run a third row seat. The first step was to make a template to figure out where the watts link comes thru the floor at and to help determine the size. I made a template as it was easier than installing the large notch cover. I think you can figure out the rest of the steps from the pics. I was pleases with how it turned out. Keep in mind this cover is only needed when fully aired out. it is not needed at normal ride height. Marc |
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More pics
Happy Holidays!! |
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Very nice work.
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you metal work guys amaze me.
well done, looks great |
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Marc |
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from what I see, I consider you one of those 'Metal Magicians' (this site has several)
You have all inspired me to try and make a rear roll pan this winter. It is low and behind the bumper, so if I mess it up, it wont be too noticeable, I hope. also thinking about a metal piece below the dash to hold the radio Great work, and thank you for the inspiration |
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Marc, nice job on the cover...Jim
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I can't figure out where the cover will be compared to the 3rd seat but maybe you could put some cup holders in it, if it works out?
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That turned out great Marc..!!
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Marc |
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