Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks! I have a vision of the finished product that makes it all worth it
Meh, it’s about what I thought would be there. Lots of little holes along the wire run. I’ll have to do some interior disassembly before proceeding, to keep from starting a fire :devil: while welding

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Took a break from the messy cowl/firewall to deal with the messy engine. She was nice and clean on the inside, though. Can’t wait to get to the no gloves required, re-assembly part...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Oh yeah, I’m digging this:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Who's VC adapters?

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

They’re from CFR Performance. They mount the coils under the VC, have provisions for PCV, and utilize the stock valve cover gaskets.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thats gonna look good. I always toyed with the idea of making my LS look old school, Im excited to see it come together.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thank you for all the detailed post. I am in the same place with that inner cowl. Looking forward to your take on it.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks, I dig it, too. Though, back when I first had this idea, not many people were doing LS swaps this way, now it seems everyone is. May have to change it up just a bit...
I like to give detail in hopes that it may benefit someone else. Can’t tell you how many times this forum has helped answer questions for me. Can’t say I’m looking forward to the cowl work, though. More like putting it off :lol:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

So cool! Everything looks great. Digging the engine ideas.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Looking good!!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Along for the ride.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks guys, and welcome to the circus.

After chasing the elusive 9/16” grade 8 hex and 7/16” grade 5 carriage bolts all over town because my normal bolt supplier was closed for the holiday, I managed to get the new cab mounts installed. The old rubber ones had been previously replaced with LMC units and weren’t that bad, actually, but the core support bushings were pretty well shot.

The cab has not been square on the frame since I’ve owned this truck, which caused misalignment issues with the bed, fenders, cowl, and hood. When I measured it, it was around 3/8” off side-to-side :eek: I figured while the truck is torn apart, it’s a good time to straighten it out and replace bushings. I greased the crap out of the Prothane mounts with Energy Suspension’s super gooey grease and torqued her down in the correct position. We'll see how much shimming it needs upon reassembly...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

The valve cover adapters are for sale here, if anyone is interested:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=753953

They sell for $200 plus new, these were only used for mock-up. Nothing wrong with them, just decided to go a different route.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Worked on tearing down the interior so I can continue with the firewall and cowl repairs. Figured now was as good a time as any to get the high hump cut out...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Hhmm......

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Yeah, if I could just make up my damned mind, this project would go a lot faster (and cheaper)...

In other news, I got the majority of the upper firewall rust taken care of and mocked-up the new inner cowl panel. It is a surprisingly good fit, but will need some massaging and smoothing (along with the firewall) before final install.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Looking good! I like your attention to detail. Keep up the good work! :metal:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Nice work! Keep it up. Curious what your different route is for the valve covers. I have a set of those CFR adapters that I have plans to use in the future. Haven't brought myself to put them on yet though.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

About to tackle this on my '68. Can you give me a little more detail in what tool you used to cut the floor and any tips you have to make sure it's right. Yours turned out great! Were your high hump bolt holes already in your floor or did you drill before you cut out low-hump?

My first time going from low-to-high and I want to make sure I do it right the first time.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I did this on my 68 & my 64. The high humps are slightly different for each series but the install was the same. I set the high hump over the stock floor & used a sharpie to reference mark the hole locations.

The stock floor basically has a formed body line in the floor that pretty much can be used as the cutting guide. You want to leave enough material past the reference holes so there's a decent flange when bolting the hump.

Really was pretty straight forward for both models.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Awesome progress Chris! Everything looks great! :metal:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Makes sense to me. I knew it would be fairly simple. Just wanted to make sure i was thinking about it the right way.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks for the motivation, I can use it to get past this rust repair and on to more fun stuff
I liked the CFR pieces, but am reverting to a “delmo” style adapter and coil relocation. Just personal preference
Cut-off wheel on a grinder, follow the indent. I will likely weld in square nuts, ala factory
What he said, but I laid the hump in place and black spray painted the perimeter and holes
Thanks a lot! This snowball is really gaining some speed :lol:
You got it, super simple mod. Almost too easy...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Well, I just finished reading all 61 pages and I have gotta say... I really dig this truck!!! Looking forward to seeing it heading towards reassembly.

And, I had a PK Ripper back in the day (someone broke into our house and stole nothing but it out of my bedroom :( ). I got a Nomura Racing after that, but it just wasn't the same. I still have a Hutch and a Torker, both that I love to ride.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks for tagging along! Look forward to some progress in the next few weeks. For now, I’m stockpiling parts and selling off a few things laying around to fund this ever-expanding endeavor.

I had a similar experience with my Hutch “lawsuit” bike. Pretty sure it was one of my asshat “friends” that made off with it. I loved that bike and the PK, but this Big Ripper is great for cruising with the kids. I have been eye-balling the Hutch re-release XL26, though...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I was always a Redline guy, I had several Haro Masters too. I used to be on a freestyle team actually.. :D. Back in tha DAY!.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Haro, Redline, Hutch, Diamond back man that brings back some memories!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

A few years ago...

Attachment 1740491

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Wow, super cool! I raced, never brave enough for the pipe. Peaked at 1st in state, 8th at grand nats. Ah, the glory days :lol:
Sweet memories, when toys were simpler (and cheaper!).
RAD! Is that a 24”?

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Minor progress this weekend, got the square nuts welded in for the high-hump and temp installed it. Loads more clearance! It may need to come out again for trans and shifter install and will receive a coat of sealer when it gets bolted down for the last time.

Also patched the inner-inner cowl (upper firewall?) panel, which had a bunch of pinholes and some larger rot. All clean metal now and coated in POR-15 semi-gloss :cool:

The infanti (eBay) firewall shave panels seem to fit well, but the blower hole in the new cowl is WAY off. No worries, the cowl panel will need a fair amount of work before install. The fit is actually really good, but it requires some cosmetic repairs, in my opinion :chevy:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Truck is coming along awesome!!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I totally understand the ‘stockpiling parts’... See attached pics

and I’m quite sure I know which di€kweed ‘friend’ aquired my Ripper. For my grown up bike, I have a 26” Specialized A-1 Competition Mountain bike (one of there first full suspension bikes).

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Yep. 24" Supercross with a ton of AtomLab parts, sold it though. Still have a 20" Supercross MXP park/dirt bike. I really loved to ride BMX. Local track and skate park closed so bike just sits now.

Me riding the quarter pipe at the skate park in Tallahassee.
Attachment 1741004

Me (white shirt) with Greg Hill during a seminar at our local track quite a few years ago.
Attachment 1741005

The 20" jump bike.
Attachment 1741007

...sorry for cluttering up your thread.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks! Hit a little bit of a roadblock today. Tried fitting an American Racing VN215 and the bore is too small to fit my Kore3 front brakes... Guess new wheels will have to wait for another time :whine:
Hey, that looks familiar, though your shop is bigger (and brakes are nicer!).

That sucks. You’d think Florida would be prime for tracks and parks. There 3 skate parks within a few miles of here and two tracks in the city (indoor and out). No clutter at all, bikes are another obsession. I’ve widdled it down to 8 bikes (and only four cars) for this five person family :lol:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Ok, back to trucks. Made some progress stripping and shaving the firewall. Welded all of the unneeded small holes and the heater pass-through closed. The plan is for a ‘mild’ shave, which will retain the essentials and keep a somewhat stock but custom feel. We’ll see how it goes...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Sa-mooooooth(ish)... all of the holes are filled. Waiting for my corner piece to arrive from an eBay seller before I call it done and ready for body work. In the meantime, the cowl panel needs some love before install :chevy:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

The firewall looks great. That re-pop cowl looks a bit wrinkly in the corners, I'm assuming that's where you are going to be focusing your "love"?:hc:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Looking good! Im liking the cleaned up firewall.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Yes, that, and the fact that it’s asembled from three spot-welded pieces as opposed to the factory one piece, as well as the fit being “somewhat close”, like most aftermarket panels. Shame it cost so flippin’ much, but it’s the only available option...

I spent some time today welding the three pieces of the cowl panel together as well as filling the blower hole. It still needs a bit more lovin’ before installation, but we’re getting closer
Thanks! I’m kinda digging it, too

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Firewall “smoothish” looks good!