Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Got one side of the front brakes done today--the drop spindles require much less material to be removed than the stockers.


Last look at the D52 'ears'

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...3B436B9823.jpg


Carnage! Sawzall and a grinder made quick work of it. Also drilled out the backing plate bolts and tapped them to 1/2-13

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...3B71C357BA.jpg


Painted the cuts and installed the mounting bracket and hub

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...3B8B3B3DE2.jpg
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...3BA700561A.jpg


...and complete. The paint will wipe from the rotor face at first application.

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...3C11B32BF7.jpg


Also installed one of the braided lines I got from Kore3. They are nice pieces, custom made to my specs for length and fittings, and are a matching set of 5 with the rear drop and caliper lines...

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...43727B5FD6.jpg
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...44DD77C027.jpg
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...44ECC52929.jpg
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I guess I missed it. What rotors/hubs/brackets are you using there?

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

The hubs and brackets are from Kore3--they adapt 13" C5 rotors and calipers. Paired with the CaptainFab rear discs, I hope this thing will STOP :chevy:
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

cool....and thanks!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Also cut up a poly bushing to fit the front of the upper shocks to the CPP extenders. Lopped them in half and took about 1/8" off and they fit perfectly :D

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...4B7A244292.jpg

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...4B8CF752FD.jpg

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...4BACC8C635.jpg

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...4BC2C8DB32.jpg
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Wheel on--it's coming together...

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...3C263937AC.jpg
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Brakes look really good, I don't think you will have any problems stopping now.
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

nice mods bud !!!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Sweet !
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Gringo, love your truck. On your PB lower a-arms did the shaft come with those or did you have to buy it elsewhere? I ask because mine didn't come with it.

Thanks, buck

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks, I sure hope not. Really looking for that nice, confidence inspiring, firm, effortless pedal feel. Am I asking for too much? :lol:
Thanks!
Thanks for taking the time--now get back on yours--SEMA is in a few days...
Call PB--they should have come with your arms if you're using them with a stock crossmember. I think they are set up for use with a Dropmember unless you specify otherwise...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I am patiently waiting on the 1" forward lower a-arm install. Want to see how much they actually move the wheel before I pull the trigger. Great truck and write up!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Coming soon! I figure the wheel will move forward around a half inch or so, due to the position of the spindle between the balljoints--would probably be a little more with stock height spindles... I'm excited to get to that part as well, for not only the looks, but also the driveability. Thanks for the kind words and welcome to the forum :chevy:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Looks killer brother! Great job. I'm hoping my McGaughys turn out half this nice.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Great job it looks great!!!!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks! With your attention to detail, I'm sure they will turn out great.
Thanks! The first one took a few hours longer than anticipated--hopefully have the pass side wrapped up soon...
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Nice to see you back at it, those brakes look good! You almost have me convinced to do it.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

They do look nice--hoping they perform as well. Should know in the next day or two...
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I love this truck! I'm glad I re-stumbled upon this thread again. Awesome progress!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Hey, thanks man! We love it, too :D


Update: WHOLLY SHNIKEYS! This. Thing. STOPS.

After assembling the passenger side, I took her out to rub the paint off the rotors and bed the Hawk HPS pads. The initial impression was a bit lackluster, but I continued with the recommended break-in, then let them cool. Went back out for a follow-up and WOW! These things have some serious bite and the firmness and responsiveness of the pedal feel reminds me of my old C5 'Vette. I may need shoulder harnesses to keep from bouncing my passengers' faces off the dash :)

Amazingly, this is with basically no rear brakes at all--when I went to bleed the fronts, I found the rear reservoir empty--I've known for some time that I had a leaky wheel cylinder, but was putting it off until I got the rear discs swapped in. I dumped a little fluid in, but did not bleed the rears, so their contribution to braking is questionable at best.

No matter, the fronts lock up with ease. It has gone from 'push-and-pray' to 'don't push too hard' :lol: Can't wait to see what four-wheel discs feel like :chevy:

Pic, 'cause you can't have an update without one...

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...30E975B3DE.jpg
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I think your truck deserves some fender emblems.
Maybe a set of Custom emblems.
Not Custom/10,... just Custom,... cause it is so cool.

Love the brake upgrades.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Haha- thanks! I've thought about adding some, but also like the 'slick' look--notice the truck has no side mirrors? I have a hard time deciding what to add that doesn't subtract...
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I have a couple of quick questions. I checked on Kore3's site and those appear to be the hubs for the GM tall spindle? Is that correct? Forgive me if I missed it in a previous post, but what spindle are you using? Is that 5x5 or 5x4.75 bolt pattern? Thanks

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Hey, sorry I missed this before. They are technically made for the B-body cars, specifically Impala SS. The spindle shaft is the same on the 'tall' spindle, late '70s F-bodies, big cars, and light trucks, which is the spindles I have (1" thick rotor Belltech 3" drop). The hubs can be had in 5 or 4.75--mine are 5, just 'cause I already had wheels. Kore3 also offers hubs for the 1.25" thick HD truck rotor spindles, though not on their website. Member Scoti has this setup somewhere in his pile o' parts...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Minor progress today--started assembling the CaptainFab D52 rear disc brakes. QUALITY components. Putting them together was pretty straight-forward, so I'll save you guys the gory details.

Of note: I cut off the backing plate on the driver's side and found that it is not a whole lot easier than just pulling the axles--oh well, live and learn :) Also found my massive wheel cylinder leak that had everything inside the drum soaked; the brake shoes literally fell apart when I pulled the drum...

Before, carnage, and tear-down pics: