Re: My 1967 Chevy K20 Build Thread
I also used the HF stripper tool. It works well and strips paint pretty quickly.
Nice work on your patch panels. I have a body man friend that told me "those patches are a nice starting point, but you always have to do some fitting and shaping" Have you done any door inner bottom repair? Those really need work to make right. |
Re: My 1967 Chevy K20 Build Thread
Quote:
No, I haven't done the doors yet. I am going to have those chemically dipped as I think that would be the easiest way to get the insides cleaned out. Clay |
Re: My 1967 Chevy K20 Build Thread
Great pictures, and you are doing a great job: I am working on cab repair for my project 68. I too am perhaps putting more thought into it than I should and am really just taking it as a learning experience. Your cuts and welds are nicer nonetheless.
I've been thinking, if I were to do it all over again - because I will, I have a few more trucks - would I just replace the entire floor pan? I think to be honest that I might. It would be much easier, and and only marginally more expensive than all the patch panels I got going. My most hated part of my project is the cab supports, man I understand why people go with the slip ons. A new floor with those already integrated is really tempting. What about you? I will follow your project with great interest! |
Re: My 1967 Chevy K20 Build Thread
Quote:
Hi Dave! I hear what you are saying! My thought process was to keep as much GM metal as possible. Fortunately for me, my floor was in pristine condition except for the inner/outer rockers. My cab supports were solid as the day they rolled off the Fremont assembly line. :-) I can definitely see why doing a full floor replacement would be the best way to go in many cases. I have almost 175 man hours in the cab now.....many of those hours were redoing stuff that didn't reall matter. I spent way too much time on stuff that will be covered by dynamat and carpet. But, like my daddy always said....anything worth doing is worth doing right the first time. However, I don't think he factored in my severe OCD....LOL! Clay |
Re: My 1967 Chevy K20 Build Thread
Quote:
Clay |
Re: My 1967 Chevy K20 Build Thread
Nice work Clay! I just went through your whole build thread. I'm just a step behind you on getting the cab stripped down and in primer as well on my build. You got a lot accomplished over the past year! Looking forward to seeing the K10 getting put back together.
Also good to see another AZ'er on the build board. |
Re: My 1967 Chevy K20 Build Thread
Quote:
Clay |
Re: My 1967 Chevy K20 Build Thread
Clay, It was great to meet you and stop by your garage yesterday afternoon and see your project and talk trucks.
|
Re: My 1967 Chevy K20 Build Thread
Quote:
Clay |
Re: My 1967 Chevy K20 Build Thread
5 Attachment(s)
12/9/2023
Epoxy Prime Applied to Cab I believe that I have finally gotten the cab to the point where I can prime and seal the metal so that it doesn’t rust. I cleaned the metal as best I could with acetone and ensured that the entire surface had a decent tooth on it to accept the epoxy primer. I don’t have a paint booth unfortunately, so I was forced to spray this in my driveway. I have also realized that despite my best efforts, I am no painter…..I did get decent coverage, but I will have a ton of sanding to do. I got runs in the primer, and also had some dirt and crap fly into it as it was drying. I didn’t realize how challenging it would be to paint an irregular shaped object like a cab. There were some areas that I missed and some areas where I think the primer started to flash as I came back over it causing bubbles in it. It is nothing that can’t be fixed, but it will cause me a bit more labor in the future. My main goal anyway was to get a coat of primer on it so that it wouldn’t flash rust. It will likely sit like this until after the holidays before I can do anything else on it anyway. I have decided however, that I will just have it painted. I still intend to do the body work to the best of my ability, but I found a guy local that will shoot paint on it for me. I figure that is the best course of action at this point. I think I can likely paint the smaller flatter things like fenders and such, but the big stuff I will leave to the professionals. |
Re: My 1967 Chevy K20 Build Thread
5 Attachment(s)
More.....
|
Re: My 1967 Chevy K20 Build Thread
Nice job, Clay! Good to see the cab in primer.
|
Re: My 1967 Chevy K20 Build Thread
Quote:
I will sand it all out and do the body work and then just pay someone to shoot everything for me. I am going for a driver and not a show car with this build so I think that I can outsource the painting and still not totally break the bank. Clay |
Re: My 1967 Chevy K20 Build Thread
Looks good Clay!
|
Re: My 1967 Chevy K20 Build Thread
Looks good! It's pretty rewarding to finish stuff by yourself at the end of the day.
|
Re: My 1967 Chevy K20 Build Thread
Quote:
But, do the brake drums just slide off the spindle? I pulled my spindle and hub as an assembly and can't seem to get them apart? I did take the 2 screws that hold them together and air hammered around the hub on the drum(before I just pulled them together). Had to quit for today, but I thought tomorrow I would parts washer the grease out of the hub and stick them in the sandblaster to make sure there's not paint/grime buildup causing a ridge at the ID of the drum. I say that, because when they were still on the axle. I could pry lightly between the backing plate and drum and see movement at the lug studs. I also lightly heated the drum in the same place. I'm trying to be gentle for fear of warping them like you thought you might have.... |
Re: My 1967 Chevy K20 Build Thread
Quote:
Good luck! Clay |
Re: My 1967 Chevy K20 Build Thread
The good news is, the drum and spindle came right off the brake shoes, still stuck together. I'm going to proceed with the sandblast clean up and then I'll try to stick it the press to 'gently' separate them.
|
Re: My 1967 Chevy K20 Build Thread
Cab looks great. I see so many people doing extensive work to their trucks to repair floors and such but hardly any mention or show of them actually putting effort into preventing it from coming back. The undercoating looks great.
|
Re: My 1967 Chevy K20 Build Thread
5 Attachment(s)
12/10/2023 - 1/30/2024
Cab body work and preparing for body work on front clip Well, the major body work on the cab has been completed! I still have to shoot a seal coat for the body filler and then another 2-3 coats of high build primer / surfacer and then block all that down prior to doing a final seal coat and then I can finally paint the cab. I have to say, that seeing the cab in this state is a bit rewarding! This was a major learning experience for me. As I have mentioned in the past, I am no body or paint guy! I ended up have to remove a bunch of filler that I applied due to the fact that I didn’t like it, or I did it wrong. This resulted in using almost an entire can of body filler for just the cab with 90% of that being removed and ending up on the floor. I have made sure that I have no filler thicker than about 3/16”. So, this meant that in some cases, I would strip the filler off, rework the metal, and then reapply the filler again. A ton of waste and rework, but ultimately I am very happy with the results. The rear style lines / body lines behind the cab were a bit of a struggle for me. I redid these about 4 times before I finally broke down and hired a body guy to come over and do it right. Getting the line projected around the cab radius was a lot harder than it looked. No matter how hard I tried, I just could not get the line straight. Rather than continue to waste materials, I figured it was best to just let a professional do it. I am happy and proud that the other 98% of work was completed by yours truly. I have also begun the initial work on the front clip. I was going to start on the bed next, but after taking it apart, I have realized that there is just no saving it. It will be cheaper and quicker in the long run to just get a repop bed. Instead, I have decided to move on to the front clip. I had all of the parts media blasted by a local powder coater and have begun the process of getting those pieces coated in epoxy primer. The plan at this point will be to finish the primer on the cab, set it back on the frame for now, and then begin the body work on the front clip. After the front clip body work has been finished, I will do final block sanding on everything, seal it, and then it will be on to paint. |
Re: My 1967 Chevy K20 Build Thread
2 Attachment(s)
Here is the disassembled bed that I have decided not to use.
|
Re: My 1967 Chevy K20 Build Thread
5 Attachment(s)
Here are the front clip parts that I have begun to get into epoxy primer
|
Re: My 1967 Chevy K20 Build Thread
Fantastic progress, Clayton! Looking forward to meeting up later this afternoon.
|
Re: My 1967 Chevy K20 Build Thread
Quote:
Clay |
Re: My 1967 Chevy K20 Build Thread
5 Attachment(s)
2/1/2024 - 2/5/2024
Primer Cab The cab is now primered and ready to be block sanded. After doing a thorough cleaning of all the metal, I proceeded to apply a total of 2 coats of epoxy primer to the entire cab. I could have probably just spot primed where the body work was, but seeing as how the initial epoxy primer application was not all that good, I opted to ensure that the entire cab was fully sealed up. After waiting 2 days to ensure that the coats fully flashed, but was still within the window to top coat, I followed up with 3 coats of 2K primer surfacer. This was only applied to the areas that mattered, like the inside roof, back panel, and dash align with the roof, rear of cab and the door jambs. There was no reason to put any 2K primer surfacer on the firewall, floors, or anywhere else that isn’t readily visible. Now on to blocking! |
Re: My 1967 Chevy K20 Build Thread
Awesome update! Love the progress you've made on this
|
Re: My 1967 Chevy K20 Build Thread
Quote:
Clay |
Re: My 1967 Chevy K20 Build Thread
You are making great progress, that's a lot of work. I have another question, Dunbar was able the put new bushings in your existing shackles for the rear springs?
I'm trying to get mine done, just dropped them off local and he wasn't sure if he would be able to do it. The shackles themselves are apparently specific to 1967-1968 4wd trucks and I can't find anything that matches. GM PM 3888966 |
Re: My 1967 Chevy K20 Build Thread
Quote:
Hi Jason, yes Dunbar was able to get the new bushings pushed in. We used the existing shackles and they just put new parts in. The only thing that I had to have rebuilt and replaced was the rearmost shackle mounts themselves. They were totally fubar, so I had another spring company (Valley Spring Service) here in Phoenix fabricate totally new brackets. Everthing fit like a glove, although I did have to do a bit of trimming on the new mounts to ensure they wouldn't rub the springs. Let me know if you need any detailed pictures or anything. Clay |
Re: My 1967 Chevy K20 Build Thread
1 Attachment(s)
I don't remember exactly what part number was what, but here is the parts list that Dunbar billed me for.
Clay |
Re: My 1967 Chevy K20 Build Thread
Great! RB-117 is what I had come up with to cross reference to the 468481 Part number I had found for the bushing. Hopefully they can get them installed!
He kept trying to explain to me the 117 was used on newer trucks, and I was saying 'please just check it out'. |
Re: My 1967 Chevy K20 Build Thread
Quote:
Clay |
Re: My 1967 Chevy K20 Build Thread
5 Attachment(s)
2/10/2024 - 4/8/2024
Steering Gear and Carburetor Rebuild I needed a break from some of the body work, so I decided to begin the rebuild process of both the steering gear box and the carburetor. I am still not 100% sure what I am going to end up with regarding the steering system. I originally wanted to add power steering to the truck, but in order to do so, I would have to graft in a dimple in my totally virgin frame to accomodate the proper steering gear box, as well as source a pump and all of the other components necessary. Another challenge would be the steering arm. My closed knuckle axle has a straight steering arm that would need to be modified in order to work. Given the fact that I want the truck to be as factory looking as possible, I really don’t want to cut the steering arm or replace the front axle. I also looked into the possibility of adding an EPAS system. I may do that in the future, but for now, I decided to just rebuild the manual steering gear. It was not at all that difficult to do. I completely tore down the box, cleaned it, sand blasted and painted it satin black. As this is a standard Saginaw design, and parts are readily available, I was able to get a rebuild kit from Midwest steering and rebuilt the box in short order. I replaced all the bearings, seals, and bushings, and at the recommendation of Midwest steering, filled the box with lithium grease. I did have to do a slight modification to the pitman arm and steering arm with the tapered holes for the tie rods to go into. As they no longer manufacture the one piece tie rod, I had to use the three piece design present on later model 4x4’s. These tie rods are thicker, so I had to ream out the holes using a 7* reamer so that the tie rods would slide in. |
Re: My 1967 Chevy K20 Build Thread
5 Attachment(s)
I next moved onto the carburetor. It was trashed. Mice had made a home out of it and the throttle shafts were seized in place. Nothing on it moved freely and the throttle body plate was corroded beyond help. At some point, someone tried to force the primary throttle shaft to move and twisted it. I tore the entire thing down, soaked everything in carburetor cleaner and then removed the brass tubes, needles, seat, jets, etc. and cleaned out every passage with welding tips. I was able to find another throttle body on eBay and then got a complete rebuild kit from Quadrajetpower.com. They have some AMAZING videos on the quadrajet rebuild process and I found that by and large this was a fairly easy rebuild. Once I got all of the parts, I was able to get the carburetor completely rebuilt. I also have been playing around with Caswell black oxide treatment to refinish all of the hardware on the truck. The carburetor has been no different. I blasted all of the screws, nuts, bolts, etc. and gave them a good treatment with the black oxide solution. This stuff really gives a nice looking rust free treatment that should allow them to live for another 60 years!
|
Re: My 1967 Chevy K20 Build Thread
Beautiful work as always!
|
Re: My 1967 Chevy K20 Build Thread
Quote:
Clay |
Re: My 1967 Chevy K20 Build Thread
Great work on this. Sticking with it through the cab work is a tough thing to do!
Good luck, Rg |
Re: My 1967 Chevy K20 Build Thread
Carb cleaned up nicely!
|
Re: My 1967 Chevy K20 Build Thread
Quote:
Clay |
Re: My 1967 Chevy K20 Build Thread
Was cool to read through your thread. I appreciate the efforts towards originality and the attention to detail.
|
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:07 PM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 1997-2022 67-72chevytrucks.com