Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

Made a trip to Omaha today to pick up the blazer tub, a cab, some doors, blazer gas tank and a tailgate. I ended up selling the tailgate to t korinek, who I bought the blazer parts from and who did the delivery to Omaha. Great guy and he has a bunch of good doors for those interested. I'm undecided on whether I should use the new tub on this project though. I've been trying to talk a local guy into selling me a 2wd blazer parts truck. The body is completely toast, but the frame is ok and it has a title. I'd just keep chugging along as I am on this jimmy. It should be a runner in the next couple weeks.

Any opinions out there on this? I'll be saving the new tub regardless because I have to shift my focus back to my C-10. I guess I'll have time to figure it out and see if I can even get that other blazer.

Oh yeah, when I picked up the new radiator for my C-10 (which I installed and tested thursday), I also got a windshield for the Jimmy, freebie! (BTW, both tubs have busted windshields)

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

If you can score the 2wd frame and title I would for sure save the tub for that project.

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

I stopped by the farm that has the 2wd parts blazer. Mostly just to check that it was still there and let him know I'm still interested. It is, and I think I could get it before the summer is over. He wants to pull the front suspension and rear axle (posi) for another truck he has to convert to 5 lug and disc brakes. I might just try to get another 71-72 front for him to use instead. Maybe a rear end too, I don't know.

This would be project #3. I need to get a shop.

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

Had a little progress today. Got an alternator installed, but I need to find one of those special water neck bolts to allow bolting the top bracket up. Got the power steering pump installed, minus hoses for now, that'll be next. Found a throttle/kickdown cable bracket set and installed. Then found that the carb connection for the cables are the wrong style and the bracket can't be swapped to the proper one that I have. Now I need to find the little ball connector and get that in. I also need to pick up a kickdown cable and pull the throttle cable from the other blazer tub. I also need a different water pump pulley. I have one that is too large and rubs the crank pulley, or one that is the right diameter, but has a double pulley and wont fit, it rubs the water pump. I should have pulled the crank pulley at the junkyard today, and can now kick myself for thinking I had one that'll work.

I also bought an air filter for $8, and spent about $30 at the junk yard today. Total spent is up to $156.50.

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

Two steps forward one step back. Been there. It's better than work though.

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

That's it right there. The engine that was in it was incomplete and from a different year. I'm not even sure what the throttle cable came out of, cause it's about 3 feet long. The carb I got for free from another member, but it's from a 75 I think. I should have pulled the kickdown, throttle, bracket bolt from the water neck and crank pulley from the truck I was working on today. That would have solved a lot right there. Oh well, there are other junkyards closer to me that I can get all of this from. Maybe this weekend.

I also might have mufflers for free, I need to ask yet.

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

Not a lot to report, but I did spend a little time on it. Got a good kickdown cable, but I'm having trouble getting the bolt out holding the old one in. I'll probably have to remove the tranny cooler lines to get a better fit for the socket, and maybe use a 6 point instead of the 12.

I have the throttle cable installed from the other tub, but need to get the little ball mount for the carb on. I got the ball connector from a parts store in a set from holley.

I needed to find something for my son to help with, so I had him start pulling out the old carpet. Not an easy job and I needed to help him out, but it revealed the rust damage to the floor. Don't ask for pics, my wife has the camera on a trip right now. I'll post some when she gets back. Basically, the drivers side floor is mostly rust, passenger side has some too, but not nearly as bad. That's good I guess.

Got one of the power steering lines hooked up too. The low pressure one I'll buy new line for, cause I gotta get some fuel line anyway.

My boss was supposed to be visiting me the next couple days (I have a home office), but because of the flooding in SW Wisconsin, he turned around and went back home. He said something like "the detours had detours and some of those were blocked". So I'll put some time into it monday and maybe get a few hours closer to running it.

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

Lots of progress today. I'm so close now I can almost smell the exhaust fumes. What once was garbage, is soon to be used again.

Alternator, installed $1 (stupid bolt for bracket)
Power steering, done
Throttle, done $3
Distributor, done except for power wire.
Got new cap and rotor, plugs and wires installed. ($37)
Fan, done.
Radiator support, installed.
Battery tray, installed.
Battery, bought used and tested good ($27).
Misc hoses, connectors, etc. ($26)

Spent $94, total now up to $250.

My to do list is down to swapping gas tanks, hooking up battery cable to starter, figuring out the under hood wiring mess, hook up tranny lines and vacuum lines and a few other odds and ends. I'm shooting for Wednesday, wish me luck. The wiring mess may be the biggest obstacle.

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

Sounds like things are really coming along, nice to see some progress being made. :metal:

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

I was wrong about that. I still have a bit of a mess on wiring, under the dash, and a few under the hood. But for the most part, I think I've got the wiring OK. The problem is swapping the gas tank.

This has a steel aftermarket tank installed. It has 4 bolts that run through the tank and into the bed floor. There are special nuts to remove inside the bed. One was already off, one was broken. The other two are rusted on. You're supposed to use a 3/8" drive to turn them, but that ain't working cause they are rounded out. I'm not even sure I could get to them underneath for cutting. There just isn't much room to work.

So here's my dilema. Do I keep trying to get the tank out and swap it, or do I just take my chances and use it. This has sat for several years and is a mild steel tank. It did have a gas cap on. Can't really inspect it though unless I drill a hole in it and then I'd have to seal the hole again.

Other than that, I think I just need to hook up some vacuum lines and pour some gas in and see if it will fire up. This weekend, one way or another, it will run again.

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

The wife and daughters are back home now, so I have a camera again. The big downer though is that my oldest daughter had surgery to replace her ACL in her left knee. Kind of puts a crimp in our spare time, but I did get a couple hours in on the Jimmy. I managed to figure out a way to get the gas tank out. I used a 3/4" drill bit and drilled out the retainers inside the bed area. Not as easy as it sounds. The Jimmy is parked behind a guys barn and electricity is a ways away. I got my longest cords and ran power out there for my drill. I couldn't use my cordless drill because it will only go to 3/8" bits.

Heres the tank:
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...y/IMG_3095.jpg
Heres the rust holes:
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...y/IMG_3096.jpg

I just bought some new tubing for the fill line and some vents, etc. $22.

Here's the engine compartment, mostly refurbished wiring harness installed. I think the only thing left under the hood is to put in the vacuum lines.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...y/IMG_3102.jpg

Now under the dash is another story. I'm hesitant to hook up the battery until I isolate the hot wires under here:
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...y/IMG_3099.jpg

Hows this for electrical genius, a hidden switch for the starter, it was under the dash by the glove box. State of the art security:
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...y/IMG_3103.jpg

And then there is the lighted ash tray:
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...y/IMG_3104.jpg

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

I kept the under dash wiring harness from the green truck and will eventually install that. Maybe sooner if I don't want to be hot wiring it during the start up. Here are a few more pics of how it is right now.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...y/IMG_3114.jpg
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...y/IMG_3097.jpg

The rusty floor, driver side:
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...y/IMG_3098.jpg
Hoses $22, used gas tank from t korenek $50.
Total spent is now up to $322. I need to sell some stuff and get that total down. That's just too much.;)

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

Keep up the good work, this one is a lot of fun to watch.

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

Thanks Chevyman63.

I was able to get a little more time this evening to work. I got the gas tank installed, minus some vent lines. The steel lines for the vents were all shot, so I just put the tubing on the tank vents for now and will route some new lines later. I also got vacuum lines run for the tranny, brakes and distributor. I think sunday I'll put some gas in her and see if she'll turn over without welding wires all over the place and frying all the fuses. I want to at least try to get the exhaust pipes hooked to the manifolds too, but we'll see.

I think my son wants to go on a road trip as soon as he hears it run. I'm hoping I can just drive it forward and backward once, then maybe back to my house where I can blast it with a pressure washer.

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

Electrical problems. Still working on it, but didn't have much time today. I started swapping the under dash harness. That was going ok, but I noticed a loose wire on the ignition switch plug. Anyway, I put some gas in the tank, no leaks yet. I plugged the unused vacuum ports. I got the battery hooked up, no fires. I tried the key, nothing happened. I didn't have anymore time to investigate. The battery should be charged, but I'll check that. It could be the wiring for the switch, or I might have the wires reverse on the starter. I'll get it checked out over the next few days and get it running.

I'm a little deflated that it wouldn't turn over, but I'll get it figured out.

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

youall get it

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

Good news and bad news.

First the good. I got the starter turning over the engine. Got the wiring pretty much figured out. I also got ignition. It's sparking and firing.

Bad news, can't get gas from the tank to the carb.

What I've figured out. I had 3 wiring issues. First the two wires to the starter were reversed. Second was that I hadn't plugged in the neutral safety switch, third was a loose wire to the ignition switch. Those things got the engine turning under electrical power.

At first there was no spark. I tried checking connections, etc. Nothing. So I pulled the coil and had it tested, and it was ok. So I bought a new ignition module for the HEI $30, for a total of $352. That got it sparking ok. It would fire, seemed to be evenly, with me squirting gas into the carb. After running the battery down, then using jumper cables I checked the hose to the fuel pump and it's still dry. I'm going to have to syphon gas through the line to make sure it's open. Then I'll pour some gas down the line from the carb and see if that will prime the pump and get some flow going. If I can get gas to the pump and it still doesn't work, I'll have to try another pump.

I'm confident now that it'll run once it gets a steady flow of gas. I'll try some more this weekend. I already have a short list of things to work on.

Hook up exhaust pipes
Change tranny dipstick tube
Put in new kickdown cable
Tie back the wiring after finishing the hook ups

And the big one, TEST DRIVE!

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

So close I bet it killin' ya:lol:. Nice progress.

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

You have no idea...

Another day of good news/bad news.

First the good, I got it started. It sounded excellent. :metal:

The bad, no oil pressure. :cuss:

I took an air tank out there this morning to try and push some air into the gas tank to see if the gas would make it to the front, that didn't work so well. But I still wanted to see if the fuel pump was ok, so I just ran a gas line from the pump into my gas can, undid the line at the carb and turned it over. Nothing, nada, zip, dry, etc. So I went and bought a fuel pump. Got it in, tested like the last time and it works. So I start it up off the gas can. Timing was way off, but I eventually turned the distributor enough to make it go. Now it starts right up and sounds smooth. But no oil pressure.

I've pulled the dizzy and got my priming tool on it, nothing. I'm going to have to change the pump and hope that my start up didn't wipe all the bearings. I'll pull a cap or 2 and check it out, but this will wait til next weekend I think. I had no reason to doubt the pump before. It turned smoothly and easily, looked ok. When I had my drill on it, there was something not right though. Something might have broke when I was putting in the shaft, retainer and dizzy. Who knows? Anyway, it's fixable. I'm disappointed, but it's not like I need to drive it to work tomorrow either.

Spent another $20 for a pump and fuel filter. Total now up to $372. :b69:Modelo Negra is my newest beer of choice.

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

I'd do a quick test of the oil pressure gauge if it were me.

If the motor sounded good without the lifters rattling like crazy, you have oil pressure.

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

Thanks, but I kind thought about that. I didn't hear ticking from the lifters. I pulled the gage line, no oil flow, but that can be kinked, plugged, whatever. So I pulled the oil filter, dry. I also pulled a valve cover before shutting it off for good, no flow to the valve train at all. This is all before I pulled the dizzy to make sure the drive on it was good. It was, and I had checked it before I installed it.

If anyone has any idea why there would be aboluetly no flow from the pump, other than a damaged pump, please post. I can get a pump at advance auto (melling pump) for like $16. I just don't look forward to unbolting the mounts and jacking it up enough to slide the pan out. I've done it before and it's kind of a pain.

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

Oh yeah, another downer was the radiator started leaking. This is one I'd had in my C-10 for years, no problems. I ran it a couple months ago. When I went out this morning, I could see the leak.

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

Bummer... :(

By filling the oil filter with fresh oil 'before' you install it, it allows for quicker oil pressure during the initial start up.
An old tip my pops taught me. ;)

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

Sure doesn't sound like good news. Can take a while to get oil flowing up to the rocker's using the oil priming tool but the should flow pretty quick with the motor running. Plus the oil priming tool should show oil pressure pretty soon unless there is a problem. Sure sounds like the oil pump shaft isn't connecting to the oil pump for some reason.

Good luck figuring out the problem!

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

First off, Happy Independence Day everyone. It's been beautiful weather here lately and I've enjoyed being able to work outside without hot, humid sweltering days.

Now for a Jimmy update. I'm very conflicted right now with how I feel. On one hand, I got it running, and actually drove it today around the farm where I'm working on it. It has forward and reverse, but still needs some fluids added to get the power steering working and the tranny shifting better. I added what I had, just need to get some more.

On the other hand, I just can't get any oil pressure. Here's the situation: I got the oil pan off (had to slide the cross member forward), pulled the pump and checked it all out. There is nothing wrong with it. Now I no there was no flow before because after it had been running I pulled the oil filter and it was dry. I used my priming tool after that and could not get flow up to the heads, but apparently it flowed to the filter, because when I checked it today, it was full. I double checked everything. Front main bearing was ok, so it had to be getting some flow.

Here's my theory: Something clogged the port from the pump to the filter, but there is a separate port to the crank bearings. This is why it didn't wipe everything and the lifters were not clacking away. The bearing clearances are probably too loose and therefore, there just isn't much pressure. I let it idle and warm up with a valve cover off and never noticed any oil squirting from the push rods. When I reved it up though, oil was spattering the firewall and heater box, etc. so it has to be getting some oil.

The conclusion is that it runs fine, realistically needs a rebuild, but it's not now, nor ever will be, a daily driver with this engine. So skrew it, run it till it dies. If it starts clattering or hammering away, it'll be time to shut her down and swap another engine. Lessons learned. I could have rebuilt my other engine. I would have spent more, but would have had a better engine. But it's not a total loss, because it does run, it's a 4 bolt main block, it's a good useable core. I learned how to rebuild a rochester quadrojet, had to figure out problems with just about every major system, and I am satisfied, if not thrilled with the results. It's experience you just can't get any other way.

So for now, I'll finish getting the cross member bolted back in, fix the tranny kickdown and dip stick, hook up the exhaust, add some fluids and drive it around some. I'll bring it home so I can blast it with my pressure washer. I still need to try 4wd yet. The brakes seem to be working fine, so that's good. The rear springs are really squatting down, I don't like that. I'll eventually have to do something about the rusted floor, don't really care about the rest. I might get a posi for the rear. I bought one with gears for my C-10, then the junkyard called the other day that they got another axle out for me with a posi.

So guys, I know a few of you have been following this. What do you think? Was it worth it? After the short list of maintenance items above is done, what would you do next?

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

I would completely finish up everything motor related. Exhaust, tuning, whatever. Then electrical...lights, wipers, all that good stuff.

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

I'd get it home and drive it now. You'll find more small items that need fixing or just aren't to your liking and they'll be easier to fix at home. It is always satisfying to drive something you've built (and impressive with how little cash you have in it).

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

Sounds like there could be gunk in the pushrods and or motor. If you started it and it had no oil, it'd locked up or spun a rod bearing. Get a cheapy oil pressure guage, and install it on a known good port (not plugged). If you have pressure the motor will last. I have seen some gunked up motors over the years, and sometimes the pushrods are solid and therefore no oil to the rockers. Always fill the filter with oil, it'll speed the flow of oil. Now, if the motor was gunked, that gunk could be anywhere, and everywhere, try seafoam in the oil, it'll break down all the crap and flush it out with an oil change. Once the oil think is square, drive it!! BTW I always see single walled tops, on other peoples rides, but can't find one for mine!!! Drive it to AZ, I'll buy it from you and you'll have 0$ invested!! BTW I watched this entire thread ply out, but didn't post much, I am glad you did it through to the end, just to show it can be done and you don't need a second mortgage!! It isn't a show piece, but honestly who wants one of those, not me!! Drive it, let your son drive it (sitting in your lap if he is young!), but you don't have to worry about stupid stuff like scratches, dents, dings, rain, bugs, other drivers, etc, etc you can enjoy it and have the sense that you "DID IT ALL" as compared to the checkbook crowd of "builders" and I use builder loosely when I refer to them!! I think it's sweet and for the $$$ you spent, well let's just say a lot of guys here are going to be green with envy, when they hear $300ish !!!!

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

I couldn't agree more.

Finish up the few things that need to be done and enjoy. :chevy: :smoke:

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

I think you're right.

I'll be bringing it home on it's own power now!

I was thinking the same thing. I did put some oil treatment in. My plan was to use some sea foam in it during my next drive and then change the oil again. It was black from just a few minutes of running. I might be able to make this engine ok yet.

And thanks for the kind words on my project idea. My son might drive it yet this weekend. He's 12 now and loves cars.

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

Was talking to a mechanic friend of mine today and he said he uses a quart or so of tranny fluid in a gunked up engine to help clean it out. He said not to drive it like that but run it some to circulate it, then drain and replace the oil, etc. Anyone else heard of this or tried it? Would it better than regular seafoam treatments? Any other products you have used or heard of being used? I did put sea foam in the other day and will run it with that for a while and change the oil and filter again this weekend, just looking for other options.

BTW, went to a junkyard today and found a good driver side fender and inner fender for $30. I also got a 68 chevy grill for $10 that I'll either re-sell or use on the other blazer body I have, and also got an excellent step side fender for $25 that I'll be selling. It was just too nice to let sit in the junkyard. I really like this junkyard but it's about 85 miles away. When I'm working in that area and I have time, I stop and look. Oh yeah, I got seat belts for my C-10 for $10 too.

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

Hello, my name is Mike and I am an idiot. It has been a couple hours since I was last an idiot. I realize the error of my ways and am trying to get by day to day without displaying proof to the general public, that I am truly an idiot.

Whew! Now I feel better. Confession is good for the soul right?

Anyway, the lack of oil pressure has been bugging me since I knew about it. I thought I had it figured, but it just didn't seem right. What bothered me was that even with the gage line disconnected, it would not flow oil through the line. I double checked that the line was not plugged. I looked at the bare block in the garage, to see the oil passages. Fact is, if that pump is working at all, oil should come through the fitting at the back of the block.

So I went back this morning and checked again for any signs of oil flow, blockages in the passage for the gage fitting, anything. Found zippo, so decided to pull the pan again for another look. The oil pump was removed again and compared to the new one I had, the drive shaft for the pump was about 7/16" shorter than the new one. Probably too short for good engagement with the distributor. So I kicked my own ass around for a bit, good thing I was alone. Put it back together, started it up and glory be, oil flow through the gage fitting. Still not a lot of press, but I absolutely know there is flow from that pump.

I started hooking the exhaust up to the manifolds. I'll need to do a little cutting and get some clamps. It sounds pretty good though. I tried out the 4wd and I thinks it's all working. The transfer case shifts, and the hub lockouts move ok, but I couldn't really feel much difference from low to high. Anyone know an easy way to check that the 4wd is working without getting stuck in the mud and watching the front tires spin?

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

Don't beat yourself...sh!t happens.

I've been following this thread for a long time and today was one of best posts I've read. I laughed my a$$ off at the beginning of the post and had to read it to my wife. Great job and great build thread.

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

Make sure you didn't wipe a bearing, if the pump wasn't working for any amount of time, it might have done some damage. As for the oil pressure a stock 350 will run 15-20 lbs at idle and up to about 40psi under higher RPM's and a bandaid for lower oil pressure is thicker oil, 20w50 or straight 50 if in the warmer months. The 4X 4 lo or 4hi will make a different feel wheather the 4X works or not as 4lo still makes the rear 4 lo, so you should notice high RPM and slow moving in 1st gear. To check the 4X4 you need to be sure the hubs lock and that is it, the transfer case is gear driven, so once in 4X the front axle will turn unless the transfer case makes loud noises!

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

An easy way to test the 4wd is to put it in 4wd then cut the wheels all the way to one side. You should feel the truck not want to go and lurch as you apply throttle. Do it in the dirt. I've tried it that way many a time on concrete or asphalt but you can break an axle that way. Congrats on findin' some oil pressure.

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

I checked the front main, which was ok, but didn't check the rods. I figured they were not great to begin with. I'll run it like it is 'till I notice rod knock or other symptoms. As for the oil weight, I'm not sure heavier is better in this case.

Here's why, if I run lighter oil that flows easier, it should increase actual flow to the bearings, and should also be better in an engine with gunk build up in pushrods and lifters, etc. If I run heavier oil, the pressure will increase at the gage due to back pressure against the bearings, etc. It looks better at the gage, but may not be better lubrication. For now, I started with 5w-30 and I'll be treating it to clean the engine out some. When or if the oil starts looking cleaner after a few changes, I'll bump it up to 10w-40, or maybe 50. It sounds great, starts and idles like a champ, no knocks or clacking, etc.

Thanks, I am pretty sure everything is good. I shifted it through all the different points and it drove each time, except neutral of course. I'm certain the transfer case is fine, oh yeah, I need to check the oil in that too. Anyway, I did feel the normal front axle lurch while turning. I guess the only thing I'm unsure of is whether both hubs are locking in. Is there a way to test this? Maybe jack up the front axle and turn the wheels by hand. Will the other wheel spin if it's not locked? Does it spin same direction if it has a posi only and reverse for open? If one wheel is in the air and the hub is open, will it spin freely? Then not spin when locked, cause the other wheel is on the ground and the transfer case is engaged?

Just throwing ideas out there. All my other 4wd trucks have been auto hubs, shift on the fly, etc. This is my first old school 4wd.

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

Yeah, jack up one front tire at a time, lock the hub and you should feel hear it lock and it won't spin (in gear, 4 locked) mind you, then try other side same way. As for the thicker oil it actually fills the space in the case of worn or loose bearing tolerances. I guess the thicker oil could cause an issue, but if there is a restriction thin or thick it's going to happen. I run 20w50 in the winter, and straight 50 or 60 in the summer in my older v-8. The oil helps to keep the metal parts from touching the other metal parts! If you wiped a bearing, you'd hear it and the OP would be pretty low. Run straight 30 in it and get the cheapest auto parts brand oil you can find, as you are going to run it for a short period of time (with either the seafoam or auto trans fluid) just don't run it hard or drive it, just start it and let it idle, then dump it and change filter. I have heard of guys getting lucky and you seem to have a good bit of it!! I had a buddy lose a brand new motor because he didn't prime the OP and it ran with assembly lube and then welded stopped! I am still in complete awe of this build, the budget is rediculous, and that is why I love it so much. I have a couple of vehicles around here and lots of parts, once I can get around and do the work (back surgery 5 weeks ago) I will give this low dollar build idea a shot!!

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

I once had an engine that had lots of gunk in it. I used this stuff from wally world called Engine Flush or something. Worked good. While talking to my dad about using it, he said that I could have just used diesel fuel, about a pint of it. He said that's what he used to use in his old engines when they needed a good cleaning. He said that he would just run it until it got warm, then change the oil. I haven't tried this, but the Engine Flush stuff worked great.

On a side note, glad to see that you are getting pressure now.

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

I had an old timer tell me the same thing, he used diesel in the oil and put a little in the gas to loosen carbon off the valves, but I was always a little scared to try it. The motor flush is pretty harsh I hear, but if it ruined motors I doubt they'd stay in busines?? I think any of the above stuff would work, I just knew some guys here praised seafoam?

Re: Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread
 

Trans fluid (dexron) is high in detergents so it should clean up the engine. Just don't drive with it. My dad ran a service shop back in the day so he has done the trans fluid cleaner before. He also used to trickle it down the carb as the engine was running to clean up the valves. You have to keep the RPM's elevated a bit for this procedure and its better if the engine is at operating temp.

Looks like you are lucky. It happens every once in a while.