Re: 67-72 Electric speedo
Scribed. Sorry for the PM eric, prolly should have read all the pages first:banghead:
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Re: 67-72 Electric speedo
Put me down for 1. I can prepay, don't care if it takes a month or two.
PM me when ready to order. I get lost in all of the threads i read. Thanks, John Quote:
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What is the purpose of sticking the new decal to the old (S10) gauge face? Why not stick the new decal directly to the clear plastic?
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If im following you (decal on C10 clear plastic) then the decal would be in front of the needls. The depth would be off and you wouldnt even see the speedo needle.
Some of his pictures go out of order, like he shows the decal being applied to the S10 clear plastic and then a couple pictures later the S10 speedo is temp installed and there is no decal on it. This is prob so that it doesnt get scratched up while he is working on it. That might be what is confusing you. Or maybe you mean, why is it stuck to the old black S10 guage instead of the clear S10 guage part, well I think this is to keep everything aligned properly. Quote:
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To answer your question, you can't put it straight on the clear plastic part because it's not flat, and the openings for the odometer and trip odometer are way too big. Using the S-10 face gives you something to work with. It may seem like some of the pics are out of sequence, but I'm taking them as I go. The face has been put on and taken off several times, so that's why it looks that way. |
Re: 67-72 Electric speedo
Plus looking clooser I see that the S10 clear plastic has mold marks that would definately show through the decal especially since specks of dirt show up.
Sorry to double post, i tried to edit it into my last comment but too much time elapsed. Quote:
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I just have a few pics for today.
Put the lens back in the bezel, and drill straight down with a drill bit the same size as the trip reset button. This hole may have to be enlarged later if you don't get it exactly in the right sopt, so it's best to use a small bit to start. http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/...ps48150b2e.jpg Moving back to the face. Drill the holes for the 2 needle stops (knife pointing to hole). Make sure that the hole isn't too big, the needle stop needs to fit snug in the face, NOT the clear plastic part behind it. Also drilled the hole for the high beam indicator, and the 2 little screws that held the original speedo face on. http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8d95914f.jpg Needle stop installed at 0 mph, I also put one at 120 mph. http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/...pse0d632f3.jpg Now comes a part that can be tricky. When you put the face on the clear plastic part, it needs to be shifted slightly 'up' from center like in this pic. This is important or it won't look right. The reason is because of the angle that the s-10 dash was at versus the straight up angle of the 67-72. Trial fit it and hold the cluster straight up at the angle you will veiw it when it's in the truck and you'll see what I mean. You'll be looking slightly down at it, and if the face is up, you'll be able to see the odometer completely. http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/...ps12174db6.jpg Once you have it where you want it (after you've double and triple checked whare the face is going to be) Mark the needle stop holes and the screw holes. http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/...ps37fe18e9.jpg Then take the face back off and drill out the holes where the needle stops and screws go. You want them to be bigger than the stops and screws, since they will just push into the face, the holes are just to allow for the part sticking out the back of the face to have somewhere to go. If you look at where they were originally on the S-10 you will see what i mean http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2c609956.jpg This is all for now. I'll post more in a few days. |
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I just noticed my speedo has a sheetmetal mounting bracket while yours (as seen in post 114, pic 8) the mounting holes are part of the plastic casting. The hole pattern is the same but it may have a little influence on the depth of the gauge once installed. Have you seen or used one like I have? it is from a 97 S10.
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Re: 67-72 Electric speedo
hard to tell from a face on photo, but they look to be the same depth. I am looking at the small grey gear (between two gold screws) on the right side at it appear to be at the same height as the holes that are used to mount the homemade sheetmetal plate.
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Re: 67-72 Electric speedo
I went to the junk yard this weekend and looked at several S10 speedos. I found several 95-97 that had the metal bracket like pictured above. The last truck (I think it had a 10 of 97 build date) finally had the all plastic mounting bracket. Looking at them side by side they seemed the same but I cant say for sure if all of the electronics were the same.
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Some pics of my progress... just alignment and rough first model stuff.
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My first attempt at centering the S10 needle. got it half a hole off, about .040" now it is dead on.
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Wow Dan, that really looks good, but you're going to have to stop, you're making me look bad! :lol:
I also thought of making the face out of metal, but didn't have a way to cut out the odometer opening neatly enough. The up side to doing it is you could eliminate the trip odometer and ot would make things a little easier. One tip ill give you though, if you do it, the metal will need to be really thin. If its too thick, the odometer will be too far from the face of the speedo and won't look right. When I first started trying things I tried to use the original face, but since it kind of tapers in around the odometer opening, it just didn't look right. Keep up the good work, and later this week I should have some more progress and some more pics of the process to post. |
Re: 67-72 Electric speedo
Are you still shipping out your kits? I'd really like to try this. Is the signal from the transmission the same on all GM trannys? Is there a need/way to calibrate the S10 speedo to match a particular type of trans? I did a NV4500 swap and haven't had a speedo since.
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Just in case anyone was wondering why you cant use a speedo from a tach S10...
There is not an odometer attached to the speedo, it is in the tach. The one you want is in the top of the picture. |
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So far you should have something that looks like this.
http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7c0c4f10.jpg Up next is painting the numbers on the lens, this is where it starts getting a little tricky, but not impossible by no means. Start by cleaning the side to be painted. I use Dawn dish soap, and clean it good so that the paint will stick properly. Then, once you've marked the front side so you know where to put the mask, hold the lens up to some light and line it up on the inside of the lens. I used some tape to hold it in place. http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3b425956.jpg http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/...psac253769.jpg Once it's exactly where you want it, tape the bottom so it cannot move. http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/...psd4ef902b.jpg Fold it back at the tape and remove the backing. http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/...psc02d3e7d.jpg Then carefully put it on the lens, starting at the bottom and working your way up. http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7bdf7405.jpg http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7a1e2fe9.jpg Once it's on the numbers should match up with the marks made on the front side of the lens. http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/...psf98af245.jpg Then carefully pull the backing away. http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9f6dc1d4.jpg http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9c0f0f46.jpg http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/...pse32ae985.jpg THis is the paint I use. It's just green and white. It takes some time to get the right color, but these two colors will do it. http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/...ps61e62ffe.jpg |
Re: 67-72 Electric speedo
This is what I used to spray it. I've had this thing for years, like 15 or so and was suprised the propellant can still worked!
http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/...ps379f2f11.jpg Then mask it off and start spraying. Don't put it on heavy, several light coats will work better than one or two heavy ones. http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7931d3c7.jpg I unmasked the front to see what it looked like, and if there was enough paint on it. http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/...ps58666493.jpg When you're done painting, wait for it to tack up, but not fully dry. Then take a sharp knife and stick the centers of all the numbers and pull the mask off. If it's completely dry, this will be really hard to do. The paint should be dry enough that it doesn't come off when you touch it, but wet enough so that it will leave a fingerprint in it. http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/...ps14febe68.jpg http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7f171359.jpg Do all the centers first before pulling the main piece off. Then carefully remove the last part. http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/...psbde8c0c4.jpg http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/...psf9844dcd.jpg Done! http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/...psf2bd28c6.jpg Once it's dry, you can put it in the bezel and put the back tin in and see how it looks. This is where you really start to feel a sense of accomplishment. http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/...psd8fa045a.jpg |
Re: 67-72 Electric speedo
Awesome work. You guys are real inovators.
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http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.c...roduct_id=126/ Looks to me like this device would make this swap work without a pcm/ecm and it's only $89. Is so, it should work with any electronic trans with no computer. Anybody have any first hand experience with this? I'm really trying to find a way to make this work! |
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very nice
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Version 1.2, without ODO reset. Simple rectangular cutout sneak peek.... ODO reset will be added and other revisions before I go full cnc production... Rear cover box will be up next week.
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I think he is reusing the two tiny screws from the C10 speedo. If you do end up making some of those plates please add me to the list. I picked up the S10 cluster/parts but am on the next list to get the "kit" from ls1nova71 |
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As for how I put the S-10 face back on the clear plastic, if you don't touch the back side alot, it will be sticky enough to just stick back on. At least the ones I've done have worked out that way. You could put some glue on it or a few pieces of good quality tape on the edges since you can't see them once it's assembled. The tape I use for such things is the aluminum tape for sealing HVAC duct work in houses, which I'm sure you're familiar with! Also, don't worry about the "hijack", this thread is just information and your additions I think people will find helpful. :chevy: |
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Here's the problem with the trip odometer. The re-set knob is just a touch too short. It's about 1-15/16" long, and needs to be close to 2-1/4". To remedy this I cut the knob and lengthened it with a small screw. You probably don't need a screw to do it, since you'll never really be putting much pressure on it, you could probably just drill it, put a short piece of a nail or something in it and glue it back together, but I had the stuff lying around and it's what I used.
These are the part's I used. A small drill bit, a 4-40 tap, and screw. Then I cut the knob off and sanded the end where I was going to be drilling the hole in it. http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/...psaf7ccbdf.jpg Drilled the hole in the end about 3/8" deep. I used a drill, but you could also put the bit in an X-Acto knife. Drilling plastic is really pretty easy, just make sure it's centered the best you can. http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5583ef04.jpg This is what it looks like drilled. http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7e3d9a27.jpg Then I put the tap in a pair of Vice Grips and tapped the hole. http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/...psb149b84b.jpg Then the screw will screw into it. http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/...psbb85b532.jpg Drill and tap the other end, cut the head of the screw off and thread each end in. http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/...ps587ae4a8.jpg http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/...psbd7362ca.jpg Later, after I've adjusted it to the length I want, I'll put some glue in them so it won't thread out, but odds are it wouldn't move anyway. You can also see that I didn't get the bottom part exactly centered, it's not a big deal, since you can just thread it in or out a bit to get it where you want it. |
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Next is the needle. You'll need both the S-10 and your original needles. Start by bending the four tabs up on your original needle and remove the mounting part.
http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/...psc75e5414.jpg Then cut the black part off the S-10 needle, and trim it up so it will fit in the original needle. http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/...pscb166af5.jpg http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/...psaf2db302.jpg Then you'll need to epoxy the black part in the original needle. I used body filler because it sets up quick, and I had some. Mixed some up and put a little in the needle, then put the black part in it. http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5a395ef7.jpg Then put a little more on it to cover it the rest of the way up. Make sure it's centered and straight up, you don't want it leaning at all. http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/...psce9b6fae.jpg Then when it started to set up, but before it was completely hardened, I took a razor blade and trimmed it flat. http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/...ps78d7cfbd.jpg Then it fell out! LOL! No problem though, a little super glue and it was good to go. I also bent the tabs back over. http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/...psbe50e7a6.jpg Now you'll find that it's a little too long, and the needle is too far off the face. Pull it back off and trim it down a bit. I did it a little at a time with a razor blade. Don't do alot at once, since if you cut it too short, you'll have to start over. http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1b5d09b5.jpg This is a little better. http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/...psc3bc511a.jpg Now you can put the needle on, and make sure everythings lining up. If it's right, through the entire sweep, the needle will be right at the edge of the line on the speedo face. http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7ec56242.jpg http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/...psc06e9b69.jpg http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8b587232.jpg Should look like this. At this point it's just down to wiring. I use sockets for the lights from the junk yard. They are the same sockets that 67-72 trucks have on the heater controls, and use the same bulbs. they ground through the base, so you only need to run the power wires to them. http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/...psf8e526af.jpg http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2bfde08c.jpg As for the rest of the wiring, use your old printed circuit as a guide, it will show you what wires on the gauges need power, and which ones go to the senders. I also usually go to the junk yard and get a connector to wire into it so that you can un plug the whole cluster to remove it. If anyone has any questions on wiring just ask and I'll get back with you. |
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I forgot about the high beam indicator, but there's a pic on page 1 of this thread. It's a 12v LED I bought at Radio Shack. it has a small nut that threads on it so you can bolt it in a hole. I made a bracket that bolts to one of the screws that holds the speedo part in. I also ended up putting a piece of window tint under the face, between it and the clear plastic part, to keep it from appearing to glow when the dash lights are on. The dash lights will light up the clear and the indicator will be white. putting the window tint darkens it so you don't see it, but it's not so dark that the LED doesn't show through.
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I'm interested in a kit if there is any available? Could always use the metal plate as well if they are being made yet.
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Q: does the needle have to sit up higher that the stock needle? Just wondering if I couldnt just bore out the stock needle hole to fit or would it be too short? I am almost done with the mounting plate but have a bit to go on the rear cover box. Those pesky light bulbs make it difficult. I may make another one and just use LEDs to backlight it like the one you used for the high beam indicator. I think that would give me a bit more wiggle room for the rear cover box. Here are some pics of the almost finished plate and my progress. |
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A few more pics :smoke:
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