Re: Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.
 

All this and a kid in less then a month. Damn you have some skills. Maybe someday my welds will look like yours. Congrats on the kid.:whine: Your truck is looking great.:metal::metal: Keep up the good work.

Re: Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.
 

great looking truck checked the whole thread out tonight,it reminds me of when i had my 63 naked:eek:,but i left mine outside one day went to work,it rained ,what a feeling all the flash rust :banghead:. But you have to get it done before he gets in high school so he can cut doughnuts in the parking lot in it :burnout:!!! well you have a great looking new little boy he gets my vote over the truck though:ben:!!! I hope all is well for you all and before you know it he will be turning those wrenches with you :metal:.

Re: Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.
 

Can't wait to see more of the progress...great looking build.

Re: Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.
 

Well, I'm back in action...sort of. I don't have a lot of time these days but yesterday I had just enough to mock up my new booster/master and take a look. It feels good to work on the old truck after over a month.

Re: Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.
 

Wow. Really nice brake set-up.

Better have tight tooth fillings when you slam on the binders in that truck. :lol:

Mac. :chevy:

Re: Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.
 

It should feel like I threw an anchor out. Now if I could just figure out what to do about running the lines. Time for another search. I know there's the pre-bent route and the bend it yourself route. I have a cheap bender but I don't have a flare tool and from what I understand they're expensive. What to do?

Re: Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.
 

I did my first brake job by buying every length of tube from the parts store and getting a pile of unions. It turned out pretty clean and I didnt make one flare. I returned all the unused lines.....I have since picked up a 20 buck flare tool that is a pain but makes decent flares. It's not hard and you will come in WAY under any pre-bent cost, if you dont mind doing the work.

Re: Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.
 

:agree:

I just picked up line and did brake and trans cooling lines and returned the rest. Didn't have to try and determine which line is which either.

Re: Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.
 

How much would I have to spend to get a decent flare tool? I've heard that's the place to spend the money. I definitely don't mind doing it myself but haven't even seen it done before. Does anyone have a recommendation on a specific brand of flare tool that works good and doesn't cost a fortune? I'm thinking I can get the flare tool, use my bender, buy the line and still come in under what I would have spent on pre-bent...hopefully.

Re: Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.
 

I have a Snap-On double flaring kit, If you are doing brake lines they have to be double flared and I think they are done at 45 degrees, If you do stainless line I think you are suppose to do them at 37 degrees......Someone correct me if I am wrong, but I believe that is right (why I dont know).....My 37 degree tool is a Rigid Brand (I think), I will double check and let you know, I special ordered off of the tool truck......(yes Im a tool junkie and I hate borrowing tools a 2nd time) I think my 37 degree tool was about 120.00 ????

Tommy

Re: Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.
 

The expensive flare tools are nice, but not necessary. I bought a total Chinese dbl flare tool at Checker. I only needed to make 4 flares for the whole truck. I redid the lines from the prop valve down. With the pre-made lines, you have one end done already. The tool is a POS but got it done. I made about 3 practice flares before attempting one on a line I bent.

I think the 45* is for AN fittings...not sure why stainless would be different than anything else? Harder?

Re: Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.
 

ksbrktracer is right.....45* for double flare; 37* for stainless and AN.

Re: Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.
 

Do you have a better picture of the Power brake Unit Bracket? Looks like it doesn't stick out too far. Looks good.

Re: Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.
 

The bracket is pretty short. I think 2 1/2 inches is all. It's a CPP disc/disc unit that I got on ebay for about a hundred under what they sell it on the site for and it is brand new. On this you use two existing holes for the bottom and drill the top two, which I haven't done yet. That will be next and I've started looking on ebay for a flare tool.

Re: Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.
 

I live in Vegas where it doesn't rain or snow and there's no salt on the roads, so is there any reason to buy stainless lines?

Re: Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.
 

here comes the thread jack........................

strodder, have you seen Captainfab's adapter bracket to use 88-98 booster and master on our trucks?

check captain's sig or on the parts board;)

Re: Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.
 

Aren't you supposed to be hounding someone about posting pics on another thread?

Re: Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.
 

I would think stainless only for cosmetic reasons or to rack up a higher kill ratio on the credit card:lol:......

Re: Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.
 

The credit card is half dead so I'll use the regular shtuff. Does the diameter of the line change with disc brakes all around or is it the same as the drums? I have all of my old lines intact. They're even bent and flared already! The only issue is the line that runs to the rear is a foot too long since I took a foot out of the frame.

Re: Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.
 

It's been a while since I bought my double flare tool, but I think it is Lisle brand......around $40-50. Does a good job and has held up well.

Re: Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.
 

I would use stainless steel lines because moister gets in the brake fluid from condensation caused by heat. That's why wheel cylinders, and calipers get pitted. Not from out side conditions.
Besides the 18 months I lived in Vegas it snowed twice. Not much but it did snow. :lol:
This was our Christmas Card from Vegas. Notice even the little duckie has snow on his head. :lol:
http://belair.smugmug.com/photos/13882611_tWf8d-O.jpg

Re: Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.
 

Yes I saw that bracket. Nice setup.

Re: Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.
 

I'll ignore that remark.....


I believe with 4 wheel discs you can run the smaller diameter line all around and ditch the larger line used for drums

Re: Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.
 

Is the smaller diameter 1/4" instead of 3/8"? Or is it 5/16?

Re: Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.
 

I think it's 1/4" for front disc brakes, but I would use the original size for the rear if your keeping the drum brakes. The smaller diameter creates more pressure for the calipers. It's like when you pinch the end of a hose.

Re: Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.
 

Hey Stroker,

I bought a Rigid 345 flare tool and a Rigid 1/4" bender. Good quality and they work very well.

Stainless lines are much harder to flare and to keep from leaking.

You might want to consider using silicone brake fluid. It doesn't absorb water and is not corrosive to paint (or any thing else). I have used it for 30 years with no problems. You can read a lot of controversy about it but I wouldn't use anything else.

TR

Re: Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.
 

yeah I think it is 1/4" also...

not to split hairs but....technically the size of the line doesn't change the pressure, it changes the volume...the difference in pressure is determined by the piston/wheel cylinder diameters in relation to the master cylinder(hydraulic multiplication) and the amount of force applied to the master cylinder.
there will be less pressure applied to the wheel cylinder because the wheel cylinder cups have less area than the caliper piston due to PSI (pounds of force per square inch) not to even go into the metering and proportioning....

that is my understanding anyway

Re: Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.
 

Its 3/16ths; thats what Ive always used on everything.

Re: Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.
 

Makes sense.

Re: Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.
 

The fittings on the prop valve are different sizes. The one for the rear is a 3/8" female and the front is a 5/16" female. The shop I went to has 1/4, 5/16 and 3/8 line. Should I use the 1/4 all the way around and will I just have to get two different fittings to hook to the master? They also have a flare tool I can rent for a few bucks.

Re: Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.
 

I think they use different size fittings to keep people from accidently hooking up the front brakes to the low pressure port for the rears. That would not be good. 1/4" is usually run for the fronts and all the way to the rubber hose at the rear axle. Then 3/16" is run to the rear calipers / drums.

TR

Re: Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.
 

Here's some good info:
http://www.dimebank.com/BrakePlumbing.html

Re: Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.
 

Thanks for all of the info guys..and the link strodder. A ton of information on that site, including a link to another site with a $550 flare tool. I almost sh!t my pants when I saw that. They had a few to choose from but that was by far the most expensive. Eastwood has the 1/4" starter kit with a flare tool, bender, 16 fittings and 25' of line for $89. sounds like a great deal and I have a 15% off coupon from when I bought some 2K ceramic chassis black to paint my frame with.

Re: Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.
 

Greetings Shrunken66. I'm just learning to weld and I had some questions. When welding in floor pans and rocker panels should I stick with a lap weld? I know my cab corners will need to be butt welded as well as anything else on the outside that I don't want mounds of body filler on. I'm thinking if it gets covered with carpet anyway, why try and butt weld an entire floor pan if you don't have to?

Re: Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.
 

You're exactly right. You can lap weld anything that's not going to be seen if you like. If you're not making a show truck and there isn't going to be anyone underneath inspecting it then what does it matter really. If it will keep you up at night knowing there's a lap weld and it doesn't look like it came from the factory, then butt weld them. I butt welded all of mine because I had a ton of time when I was not working much this winter. With a lap weld you might not burn through as much and you won't have to go back and check for pin holes with a flash light and re-tack/grind them. Either way make sure you clean both sides of the metal off where the weld is going to be. It will be cleaner and you won't breath in burnt undercoating or have contaminated welds. If your truck is like mine, and it probably is, there's grease, undercoating, a little oil and about 44 years of dirt on the bottom. After all of the body work is done I'm planning on spraying the bottom of my cab with primer and undercoating so it will all be covered and stay rust free.

Re: Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.
 

I'm ankle deep in filler. I've been sanding for days and my arms are getting ripped. This is my new work out plan. Block sand for about 4 hours a night and then push that broom.

Re: Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.
 

Here's a better current pic.

Re: Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.
 

Looking good Shrunken. Hows the weather there? Is it getting real hot yet? I know it all too well that it still stays hot there even when the sun goes down.

Re: Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.
 

It's getting hot but isn't much over mid-90's yet. I have a swamp cooler in my garage that I'm afraid to use because of the moisture, so I just sweat it out. I don't want to bring on flash rust. I'm embarased to say how long my truck has been in bare metal. If all goes well it will be epoxy primed by the end of June or so. I've got another project I'm working on so the progress might be a bit slower than I'm anticipating. It's a 61 MGA roadster for my step father. I'm striping, doing the body work and repainting it for him. I'll be juggling for the next few months.

Re: Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.
 

One of my next project after paint or during will be to figure out what to do about the location of my shifter. I'm thinking about cutting the bench back a little and having it upholstered. I've seen the newer bucket from tahoes and other trucks but I think they always look crammed in there.