Re: HP Tuners Tutorials - Section E Disable the Fuel Level Sensor Codes
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another day another VCM Edit
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Re: HP Tuners Tutorials - Section E Disable the Fuel Level Sensor Codes
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there are three more codes to disable further down the list
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Re: HP Tuners Tutorials - Section E Disable the Fuel Level Sensor Codes
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we keep the file names going with something that tells us what we did in that tune file
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Re: HP Tuners Tutorials - Section E Disable the Fuel Level Sensor Codes
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doing small changes at a time is key
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Re: HP Tuners Tutorials
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is there anything to log when one is trying to start for the first time? I'm only firing on three cylinders. Coils are good and each injector is getting pulse(YAY NOID LIGHT).I need a new set of fuel injectors(3 are bad 37 ohms). I'm trying to learn this VCM scanner and use it as a troubleshooting tool. |
Re: HP Tuners Tutorials
I looked at all those dudes videos and then some more. I liked this gentleman as well, very well spoken.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cX0OuvgUCbQ |
Re: HP Tuners Tutorials
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Re: HP Tuners Tutorials
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If you swap a good plug and its plug wire to another cylinder will it fire there? Will the bad plug / wire fire in the before working cylinder, on that coil? A lot of times guys blame grounds, each side of coils has its own ground and the PCM uses four on these PINS: 1 and 40 on each of the blue and red connectors Check out the link here: Grounds Demystified Did you thin out your own harness did you repin any wires? sorry if asked and answered which 3 cylinders fire? what do they have in common? are they all Odd or all Even for example, since the PCM has an Odd coil and an Even side coil what codes show up in the Scan Tool? did you check your fuses? even if they look good to the eye just replace the ones for the Injectors and Coils for funzies |
Re: HP Tuners Tutorials
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It's firing on 1,7 and 8. Since we knew those three were firing, we did a rotation of all of the coils and wires to verify those were good as well. And they were. We had a ground problem at the beginning, as it seems not having a ground hooked up will cause problems lol. I didn't have the ground hooked up for the coils. it is now. Yes the harness is thinned out, but we didn't repin any of the inputs/outputs on the PCM. I didn't see anything that popped out on the scan tool, but I shall double check it. And yes sir, VATS is disabled. could it be an airflow/fuel/spark Oh and fuel is constant 58-60 psi with cranking |
Re: HP Tuners Tutorials
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Scenario 1. you take a good coil/wire/spark from cylinder #1 and put it on bad cylinder #2, what happens there? does two fire or not? Scenario 2. you take a bad coil/wire/spark from cylinder #2 and put it on good cylinder #1, what happens there? does one fire or not? share a pic of your fuse block or a link to your build please (sorry I don't show sigs on my forum view in case you have it in there) what is it out of Year / Make / Model / Mods I think you said heads, so I am assuming whole enchilada, did you swap injectors, did you decap them? if you built your own fuse block did some of our connections come loose? |
Re: HP Tuners Tutorials - Section F Disable the Catalyst System Codes
HP Tuners Section F Disable the Catalyst System Codes
In this article we disable what we hope will be the last of the codes. It is common for LS Swappers to run exhaust systems less the catalytic converter so it makes sense to suppress any diagnostic codes which may surface do to it's absence. There will be an accompanying write up on how to actually turn off the catalyst PCM controls but for now we focus on just the codes. On my 2001 Siera donor PCM there were two Catalyst System codes, your PCM may be a little bit different: P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)[Just Sayin'] There has never been a more suitable code than a 420 for dealing with lighting up and smoking something, and they say GM egineers have no sense of humor [/Just Sayin'] Now let's look at the Black Magic that it takes to disable these codes, we have two controls:
1. We fire up our laptop and launch the Editor. Open the file we saved in Section F. (Our last saved file is always our starting point). 2. Make changes in the Editor, this time we will make changes only to the Catalyst System codes under Engine Diag \ DTCs. Refer to the cheat sheet below and Disable the SES on these and set the MIL to No Error Reported, some may be disabled already by default: P04203. Save the changes you made to a new file and call it something like "11 - Disabled Catalyst System Codes" 4. In your vehicle hook up your HP Tuner to the OBDII port and then your USB cable to your laptop, turn the key to the ON position, launch the Editor program, and simply write the new changes to the PCM. Note: sometimes you have to write the entire tune file to the PCM, sometimes it is perfectly happy with only writing what's changed, more on this later. More words with each pic: |
Re: HP Tuners Tutorials - Section F Disable the Catalyst System Codes
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junkyards cut these out in California so I can only assume this is what they look like, ha ha
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Re: HP Tuners Tutorials - Section F Disable the Catalyst System Codes
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we open up the VCM Editor because that's where we will be making our changes
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Re: HP Tuners Tutorials - Section F Disable the Catalyst System Codes
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two catalytic converter codes get turned off, P0420 (hee hee) and P0430
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Re: HP Tuners Tutorials - Section F Disable the Catalyst System Codes
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be descriptive when you name your file, a sentence here is better than an abbreviated word, six months from now you will thank me for nagging you to do so
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Re: HP Tuners Tutorials - Section F Disable the Catalyst System Codes
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Write Calibration aka Flash your PCM
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Re: HP Tuners Tutorials
Gregski - as I said before, awesome writeup. You've broken down what appears to be rocket surgery and made it understandable. Just wanted to let you know that we do read this and appreciate the info very much. Keep it coming please!
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Re: HP Tuners Tutorials
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Anyone else following along, please don't be a stranger, I don't mean to ever sound like a know it all, so just chime in correct me where appropriate, ask questions if something is not clear, and call my B.S. when you think I am pouring it on a bit too thick, ha ha. |
Re: HP Tuners Tutorials
I have an LS swap in my future and have been following along as you ad content. I like the format as it makes it easy to do for one but having it broken down into sections allows for an easier search if you have a specific topic you need to get figured out. Keep it coming!
Jimmy |
Re: HP Tuners Tutorials
Keep em coming! I’ll be doing the tuning on my LQ4 eventually, hopefully next spring or summer.
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Re: HP Tuners Tutorials
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For those of you following along in the LS Swap planning stages, you can download the HP Tuners software for free from their website, it is legit not pirated and you can start practicing and following along what I am doing, you can read the tune files, you can make changes to them, you just can't write them back to the PCM without buying the hardware / credits. Hope this helps.
https://www.hptuners.com/downloads/ |
Re: HP Tuners Tutorials
That is good to know. I might give that try this winter.
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Re: HP Tuners Tutorials
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Just so I`m getting this straight, I can go on the site, download the authentic software to my laptop. Then (without credits) I can practice on a test file from them or can I download a copy of my current tune and practice on it; just not writing it back to the pcm? Or do I need credits to copy my current program out to the laptop? The reasons I ask: I have an old OBD II cable from my 95 Trans Am Gen II SBC. (95 was a change over year, OBD I PCM with OBD II plug) I used it with Tuner Cat software for that year. Very basic program and not user friendly compared to the HP Tuner; but got the job done. if the cable will work with HP Tuner, my buy in to start this had gone down considerably. No need to buy their Bluetooth hook up, just credits. |
Re: HP Tuners Tutorials
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Great questions, allow me to clerify.
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Re: HP Tuners Tutorials
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What guys do, what I've done, and what I suggest you guys give a shot, is go to the junkyard and buy a PCM ie computer off of a 1999-2007 (Silverado, Sierra, Suburban, Tahoe, Yuckon) vehicle it really does not matter which one, but try to match it to your truck a bit, so if you have a 2WD then get one out of a two wheel drive, if you have a 4x4 than grab one out of a four wheel drive, if you plan on doing an automatic get one from a 4L60e transmission car, or 4L80e type of thing, if you want a stick than try and find one out of a NV3500 or NV4500 (good luck finding those) hee hee.
Then keep the blue connector for the PCM and cut about 3 feet of cable with it, you will make your own "Bench Harness" using this. This will allow you to tune this PCM or any other PCM off the car outside of the truck in your living room, your home office, or on the work bench in the garage, ie that's why it's called the Bench Harness, ha ha also get one OBDII port with about a foot of wire with it, you will also need that. I've included a link to a video on how to make one, this is Matt the Godfather of LS Swaps from Sloppy Mechanics you all should meet ha ha, 8-7-13 Stock computer bench flashing harness there are other videos that will come up so find one that works for you, I think I had to watch like three or four of them to see the different designs and flavors guys like to build / make, that's how all of this HP Tuners stuff works, there is no one 100% complete source you have to hunt and peck, this thread being no exception. frustrating at first, but it does get easier over time |
Re: HP Tuners Tutorials
Thank you Gregski for taking the time to break down and document a very complex program into small logical bits that us neophytes can follow along and gain some comfort level without feeling buried and afraid of blowing things up. Your efforts and those of others like ChopperDoc are appreciated.
Have you taken a look at the Gen V LT programming with the HP Tuners and is it similar or very different? |
Re: HP Tuners Tutorials
Thank you Gregski,
This helps me wrap my head around what it will take to get into tuning. |
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Re: HP Tuners Tutorials
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1. Change my RPM signal to 8 cylinders 2. Set my tire size 3. Here's my rear end gear ratio 4. Please turn off EGR and disable the associated diagnostic codes 5. Please turn off EVAP and disable the associated diagnostic codes 6. Please turn off the CAT heating and protection and disable the associated diagnostic codes 7. Please configure my fuel tank capacity for 16 gallons 8. Please turn off the speed limiter 9. Please enable Power Enrichment 10. etc, etc... please provide me with a copy of my Stock File before making any changes on a DVD or a USB stick please provide me with a copy of my New Tune File on a DVD or a USB stick hope this helps, G |
Re: HP Tuners Tutorials
sub'd
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Re: HP Tuners Tutorials
Just got caught up and subscribed. You are very good at explaining complicated things in a simple way. I hope you continue on with some info on tuning as this is where I have had trouble understanding the process.
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Re: HP Tuners Tutorials
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Thank you, yes of course, I like interaction so I will sprinkle a little primer here for you. Not sure if you have experience with carburetors but for those of us who do, I sometimes use analogies and comparisons. Point being when I was learning I would look at a carburetor and go "oh carburetor" as in one thing one piece one system. Now when I look at a carburetor I go "hmmm, ok that's the choke, that's the idle circuit, that's the accelerator pump, those are the main jets, those are the secondary jets, that's the power valve circuit, etc" I now see it as a collection of systems. So what does that have to do with tuning fuel injection. Well we may have traded a flat screw driver for a laptop but the goal is still the same: Mix the right amount of air with the right amount of fuel, at the right amount of time. Great, so how do we do it? Well first we don't say I am going to tune my truck, or tune my engine. We must divide and conquer and be more specific. So the circuit names may have changed but the car still goes through the same stages, and so we pick a stage or a phase and tune it, once done we move on to the next phase. 0. start and warm up 1. idle 2. cruising 3. acceleration phase 4. WOT (Wide Open Throttle) 5. deceleration phase but before we even do that, let's ask ourselves are we about to polish a turd? let's think about it, as great as these little engines are, they are now turning 20 years old and 200,000 miles, do we expect their components to function as accurately as when they rolled off the assembly line, no of course not, so I am not saying let's go out there and replace every sensor on the engine, but let's at least make sure they are within spec first before we take to our laptop keyboards and start clicking and double clicking our mouseses so let's do some basic checks, I absolutely love the following automotive thread I read about MAF sensor problems and what was done to fix it, please read it here MAF Sensor values on Scanner Things we should do a basic check on to eliminate glaring problems: 0. are there any engine codes DTCs before we even start, ok let's be honest here you did an engine swap, did you even wire up the MIL light? Did you wire up the OBDII port, not being a wise guy I have spoken to guys who have not. Did you take the time to suppress all the benign codes like secondary O2s, EGR, EVAP, CATs, etc. so that you are not ignoring valid ones thinking it's just those. 1. What are the three key ingredients to great French cooking? ... butter, butter, and butter! Similarly what are the first things you should check and the easiest things to check and eliminate when your engine aint running right? Vacuum leaks, vaccum leaks, and vacuum leaks. Do you know the five areas to check for leaks on your intake manifold? If your engine idles like crap but the problem goes away as you rev it up to say 1500 or 2000 RPM and it seems to drive ok, I bet you have a vacuum leak. Do you know how to find it? 2. battery voltage (because now we are running electronic fuel pumps instead of mechanical and no matter what Walboro million dollar pump you shoved in the gas tank, if it don't get sufficient voltage it aint worth the money you paid for it) so is your battery 6 years old already, ha ha, what voltage does it read sitting still vs under load? what's the voltage at the fuel pump? 3. spark plugs and wires - (see MAF article link above) remove all the plugs label them with a sharpie pen and lay them out in front of you and stare at them, even if you don't know what you are looking for, do they all match, are they all the same coffee color or are the middle four WHITE and the outside four BLACK? type of thing I recommend OEM plugs and wires, let's not try to outsmart the army of GM engineers here, periodic tune up should be a no brainer, plugs and plug wires as well as an oil change should be done before dropping the new engine in the old engine bay, ha ha - or I'm telling gramps! 4. O2 sensor voltage - simple this should read between zero and one volt (.100 - .900) for the stock factory Narrow band O2s) 5. MAP barometric reading - this should match the weather app on your iPhone 6. fuel pressure - is this STILL within spec for your donor engine year make and model or is the fuel filter clogged or the fuel pump under performing, did you cheap out on the wiring and used what ever skinny wire you could find to wire in that new fuel pump? Did you ground it properly with a star washer to your thickly powder coated frame or POR15ed frame rail? Is it getting proper ground all the time? 7. MAF - did you move it from the ugly black plastic snorkle by the passenger side wheel well and mount it directly on the nose of the intake? If you did that did you change HP Tuners to tell it where it's at now? If not then it's probably giving you inaccurate readings, no wonder the MAF gets a bad rap. Also our engines have an Intake Air Temp sensor in the same box as the MAF so when you move the MAF you also relocate the IAT, talk about confusing the PCM! etc. etc. etc. I don't mean to preach or sound condescending or like a smart aleck I just want us to be realists and encourage critical thinking so we can analyze and better understand the changes we are making and why we are making them, and not just blindly follow along what some knucklehead is telling us to do on the InterWebs |
Re: HP Tuners Tutorials - Part VI - Disable the Speed Limiters.
HP Tuners - Part VI - Disable the Speed Limiters.
There are settings in the PCM that turn off fuel delivery above a certain speed. In my case it was set to 98 miles per hour, your settings may differ. Now we all know you can't run moonshine at 98 MPH, ha ha, so let's increase that limit, essentially disabling the limiter. 1. On your laptop launch the Editor. Open the file we saved in Step 3 of Section F. (Our last saved file is always our starting point). 2. Make changes in the Editor, this time we will make changes only to the Speed Limiter settings found under the Speedo\Limiter tab. Enter 255 in the box next to Speed Limiter under Limit By Fuel. This means do not turn off fuel delivery to the engine until above 255 MPH. I have a drive by cable throttle, but it don't hurt to do the same under both boxes under the Limit By Airflow heading: ETC Speed Limiter and ETC Speed Limiter 2, I believe those are for Electronic Throttle Controls aka "drive by wire". (Additional instructions with each pic) 3. Save the changes you made to a new file and call it something like "12 - Turn Off Speed Limiter" 4. In your truck, hook up your HP Tuner to the OBDII port and then your USB cable to your laptop, turn the key to the ON position, launch the Editor program, and simply write the new changes to the PCM. Note: sometimes you have to write the entire tune file to the PCM, sometimes it is perfectly happy with only writing what's changed, more on this later. More words with each pic below. |
Re: HP Tuners Tutorials - Part VI - Disable the Speed Limiters.
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well at least this is above 88 MPH so getting Back To The Future shouldn't be a problem
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... another verse, same as the first, but a whole lot louder, and a whole lot worse, ha ha (who remembers that song?)
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Re: HP Tuners Tutorials - Part VI - Disable the Speed Limiters.
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this is what my default Speed Limiter settings looked like before making changes
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Re: HP Tuners Tutorials - Part VI - Disable the Speed Limiters.
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suggested changes
in case you are wondering what that Speed Limiter Hyst means, Hyst ie Hysteresis is a fancy way of saying lag time, as in how long below our threshold of 255 we need to drop in order for fuel to flow again, in this case we have to be 2 miles per hour below it, we'll never reach our top speed so we don't worry about any of that |
Re: HP Tuners Tutorials - Part VI - Disable the Speed Limiters.
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and as always we name our file accordingly and save it
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Re: HP Tuners Tutorials - Part VI - Disable the Speed Limiters.
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all that's left to do now is write the new changes to the PCM
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Re: HP Tuners Tutorials
Thanks so much for these great tutorials!! You have inspired me to take the plunge, just ordered HP Tuners from Summit. Looking forward to being able to make changes on my own
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