Re: 1968 C10 Stepside Restoration Project
I got to learn how to weld with my truck as well. You had a lot more and it looks great. Rock on sir. :metal:
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Thanks! Cheers- |
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So back to repairing the rust on the area up under the dash. Because of the compound curves, this was a tricky patch panel to create. Fortunately I keep an old inner fender around for that purpose and it came in handy. But the panel I am putting together will actually be several pieces when it is all said and done.
The largest panel was the most difficult to create and that is now welded in. I just need to get my welds ground down a bit more...they will not be flush for added strength and besides, no one will ever see it unless they remove the dash again. The gaps up under the windshield opening will be sealed with seam sealer. |
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The outside area was easier, but time consuming because I had to make several parts and weld them in place, again because of the complex bends and angles.
This looks ugly now, but it will get massaged down into a nice seamless look. I wanted to somehow eliminate the seam here anyway just to prevent future water intrusion which leads to rust. |
Re: 1968 C10 Stepside Restoration Project
I just filled those areas on with weld on mine. I welded some then ground it down, then welded more ect... until I had a nice smooth finish. Good looking work your doing.
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You may want to consider welding the upper seams also and use some short hair glass filler to smooth it all out and not have to worry about seam sealer around the windshield . :chevy:
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Hey Grumpy, I am there with you on eliminating those seams (see pic below). I had previously welded that area up above the windshield in an effort to remove any potential entry points for water and rust formation. I plan on spraying all of that, as well as the interior with epoxy primer as further protection.
Once I finish the interior welding, I will epoxy prime it and spray the Lizard Skin. |
Re: 1968 C10 Stepside Restoration Project
Very cool truck. I love seeing that you have young help. Good for future love of hot rodding. I built a very similar dolly for my cab as well. Good luck, Two Stall
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Amazing job and nice methodical work.
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I wanted to show the progression of the rusted out under dash repair I did...
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Now I am prepping to paint the cab interior with epoxy primer, then on to the Lizard Skin.
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So I took advantage of thr beautiful weather and sprayed on the epoxy primer this afternoon.
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Looks good! Great job
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So another item is ticked-off of the list...seam sealer is on.
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I am going to try to get the Lizard Skin sound barrier down Monday, at least the first coat..
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Another beautiful day means another opportunity for working on the truck. The weather was great...no wind, not hot, not humid. Perfect day to apply the Lizard Skin. Being water-based, the low humidity is helping it cure really nice.
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Is it easy to work with the Lizard Skin? I still have to decide what to run on the inside of my cab.
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I never used it before and it's easy to work with. It is water soluble so clean-up is a breeze. |
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Ok, the Lizard Skin thermal barrier is now on...glad to be done with that, it was a 4 day affair allowing a day to dry between coats.
I also coated the inside of the cowl intake with Raptor Liner...that should seal that up really well! I think I will move on to the frame next for a little change of pace. |
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That turned out nicely
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So I know that I will be painting the interior of the cab, thus painting over the Lizard Skin. My thought is that I want the smooth looking kick panels, as the doors will also be smooth because they are not coated with the Lizard Skin. As you can see in the photo there is a pretty definite texture to the kick panel shown.
So I will sand the kick panels a bit (not removing all of the texture) and spraying with high build primer, sanding. and using a glazing putty to smooth it out. |
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So I sanded and used filler primer and some glazing putty to smooth out the driver's side kick panel, also removed the remaining seam sealer from the rain gutters to day and applied some Rust Mort. Once that dries I will prime and sand.
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I also coated the outer part of the kick panel where the cowl drains (and part of the A pillar as well with Raptor Liner in an effort to stop any future rust from forming. I also coated the inside of that cowl area where it drains with Raptor Liner too. I sanded some of the texture down and primed that...it will get painted along with the rest of the cab.
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Nice work, Rg
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Thanks, I appreciate it! I am just trying to build a tribute truck to my father-in-law that will survive me and give the kids something to remember me by after I am gone (their grandfather passed several years before they were born).
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Shaun...very nice progress on the cab....what I thought was a solid cab on my '67 has turned out to be not so solid.....some slightly rusty (looking) places on the outside turned out to be some really bad (hidden) rust inside...
I'm knee deep in cab repair....have a new roof, new rear panel, front windshield header panel and nearly every other patch panel known to man.... the good news is that the panels available now days seem to be a better fiy than the ones in the past...I hope that holds true.... Keep up the good work...I'm following your build... BTW I found that little bracket for the spare tire mount....I thought I had sent it...sorry...I'll put it in the mail Attachment 2142903 Attachment 2142904 |
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I am with you, most of my patch panels have been good quality (knocks on wood), I hope that trend continues. I am about to seam seal the drip rails, luckily I have only found minor surface rust under the old seam sealer that has been there since 1968. Not bad. Most of my rust has been in the lower 1/4 of the cab. Great news on that bracket, thanks for looking, send it when you get time. Cheers- |
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Been following since we connected on that fender....
I'm envious of the progress you've made on your build...I'm ready to move from the "cutting out" to the "welding in" stage on mine... I get anxious but I'm learning to be more patient so I can do it right and not get frustrated to the point of quitting. Since the time has changed...I hope to get in several hours a night and make some real progress soon... |
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So today I put down the SEM self leveling seam sealer. Lots of great YouTube videos on how to apply that stuff. Here are a few pics of the results... |
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Taking advantage of the last 70 degree day (according to the forecast) for about a week.
So today I thought I would seam seal around the door jambs and that area between the firewall and cowl...I was pretty pleased with the results. I am also working on fixing a few minor dents along the rear cab roof seam. The seam sealer is pretty filled that seam and after priming with the filler primer, that seam has all but disappeared. I kind of wanted to keep that seam very visible as that is something you don't see in newer trucks, but as it is it will not allow any water to sit in the seam and get rust started. So, I guess I am good with it not being visible. |
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Got the speaker panels in today. I put seam sealer around the edges to secure the panels better so they don't rattle if I have the volume up.
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Those are neat! Where did you get them?
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I’m going to eliminate the kick panel vents…fabricate some speaker enclosures in the vent holes…my buddy is going to do some custom kick panels with hidden speakers for the front…would like to have the 6x9 in the cab corners…behind the seat…amp and sub maybe?
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Feels good moving forward, even on the small stuff.
There is a guy on the forum that sells cab corner speaker brackets. I found the thread https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...peaker+bracket |
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I sent that guy a PM, but did not get a response, so I ordered them from Brothers. |
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