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I was going to have a buddy tack weld it in place from the bottom,... and then finish weld it from the top. I wanted something thicker than sheet metal, so I could tap the holes and use stainless machine screws instead of sheet metal screws. |
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Nice work. :metal:
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I actually considered doing a little from each of my choices from the previous pics (weld in a flat piece of steel across multiple floor runners beveling the edges between to match the factory & simply mount the filler in the center). I figured if my 1st attempt didn't work out, it's simply a matter of cutting it out @ welding in the flat piece. |
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SCOTI, we should have spent more time, as yours looks better, but the filler landed to the far right of one of the humps, and as i stated we took the EASY way out. Keith i like that adapter plate, well thought out.
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Your the man:metal: Nice work. Looking forward to watching you build.:mm:
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really nice build
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I'm still chipping away but lack pics for proof (broke my camera).
The blazer tank has the original fill line removed & a patch has been welded in place. A new 1.5" fill tube was placed toward the rear of the tank (centered). It's now welded in. I put the bed floor on & w/a 3" piece of Gates fuel line, it all lined up & worked like I hoped. I still need to figure out a ventilation system so the tank can vent during fill & breathe during use so it doesn't pull a vacuum. Thinking about setting up a charcoal canister (ala mid to late 70's GM vehicle) to 'filter' the air/fumes. I also purchased & welded in the 'studs' for my rear bag hats. Now that that's done, the rear bags are bolted in place. I received an e-mail confirmation from UPS so I should have some parts on Monday/next week. I'll update again soon after.... |
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this build is great. your attention to detail makes everyone step up their game. great work and keep up the pix.
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Any pictures will do, better than nothing...
I woke up to SNOW Sunday morning here in Longview. It was the second day of SPRING, its not supposed to snow here....It snowed or rained most of the day here...How about where you are? |
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That looks like more then we got. By 11am, most of the snow on the ground was disapearing and the roads never got any coverage. It snowed all thru the day, but the temp was above freezing and nothing really accumulated after about 10am Sunday.
It is currently 66 and should hit 70 tomorrow. Texas weather, if you don't like it, wait around it will change. |
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Montanas kinda the same way, except we only have 2 seasons. Winter, and road construction.
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any progress?
certified welder? man those welds sure look clean to me...nice skills man |
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We have a group of contractors working within our company that does alot of our stainless piping (there's a buuuuuuuuunch of stainless piping @ my work as it's a food manufacturing plant). They build all kinds of stuff & several of them are certified for pressure vessels which is why I just had them do it. I got some parts in today & had to break out the grinder as there was a slight interference when installing. I ran out of daylight (I was working in my driveway tonight) so maybe more progress tomorrow. I also rummaged through the previously mentioned stainless guys 'scrap' bin. They let me snag a bunch of demo'd piping of which I cut off multiple bends. So far I've accumulated 8x 90° 2.5" mandrel stainless bends. Looks like I'll be doing a stainless exhaust if I can scrounge enough pieces.... :metal: |
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Still no camera. Not much progress either, but a little progress is better than none.....
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That's how I've decided to roll my 64. Some OG caps on steelies. Those caps are getting expen$$$ive though. Nice choice! What are the wheels from? 5x5-lug right?
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looking good Scoti, nice choice on the rims/caps
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Scoti, did you build the rear wheels like we talked about or did you have them done by a pro ?
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nice build SCOTI and nice detail! Love the steelies and caps. It's going to look good.
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Looks like you are doing something similar to what I have in mind. I have a set of 5 of the 6" steelies. I am looking for a "pro" to wided a pair to 10". I will be doing painted caps once I find a good set. I am also interested in getting steered in the right direction. I know that I can get OEM style wheels from Wheel Vintiques in the 5 on 5 pattern in 10" width, but they are over $100 each BEFORE powder coating and I cannot get the back space that I want. Keep up the good work... |
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Very nice work, Scoti.:metal:
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One step forward, 2 steps back.
I've still been @ it but haven't really made 'progress' because I'm doing stuff twice. I was reading through various threads & came across one for "c-notches".... http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=393867 There was some excellent info being discussed & shared & board member Lakeroadster helped several of us out w/an engineering perspective. With his input, I realized the c-notched area of my frame was much weaker than stock (which is much weaker than I anticipated). I figured that modified area of frame would be about the same strength as stock w/the thicker .250" material for the home-made notch & the inside boxing. After running the specs through some calculations, the results were scary. So, I asked more questions & started contemplating various options. I went ahead & cut up the same area on another frame to get the contours necessary to build a 'truss' section above the c-notches. This will add the much needed height for strength while keeping the flow of the frame. I did a bunch of measuring, cutting, measuring, cutting, grinding, measuring, grinding..... well you get the idea :lol: . After all the effort, I have the outer portions of the trusses complete & tacked in place. I started cutting some re-inforcement plates that will be welded in between the original frame & the new sections to help tie things together better. Hopefully I'll get them trimmed down for a good fit & start welding things up during the week. All the various clamps & steel is to ensure the new sections are square w/the top of the original frame while remaining square to each other. The proof is in the pics.... |
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The new trusses add 2.5" above the top of the c-notch plate yielding a total 4" of reinforced material above the notched area. I left .500" room to be able to install a rubber strip that will be under the shallow bed floor cross-member that is in that area.
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Lookin' good Scot, man you jumped right on the modification didn't ya!
Using the other frame for the truss was a great idea. |
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Great work.:metal:
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I was going to PM you about the updates because I didn't know if you checked in on the build section very often. Thanks again for your perspective & suggestions. If there's ever anything I can do to 'pay it forward', please let me know. |
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Awesome build!
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Scoti - DID you know that you are taking this truck to Goodguys Dallas in October of THIS year? At least that is what I was told by another board member...
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looking good Scoti
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