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Re: '67 5.3L Build Thread
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Here is a pic of how I mounted my gas pedal. I took a piece of 3/16" thick 3"x 36" steel from Home Depot, cut it into a 3"x3" piece and a 3"x5" piece, and welded it together once drilled for the fire-wall (old gas pedal mount)/pedal and positioned correctly. I used 2 different pieces so I could fine-tune the mounting position. It worked out great and is in a very comfortable position.
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Re: '67 5.3L Build Thread
Here is a video of the motor running open header. Kinda' loud, but it sounds pretty good. The tach is off because I just found out that you have to set Auto Meter gauges to the 4 cyl setting or it to show correctly using the ECM tach signal.
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That sounds good, nice rumble
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mine sound just like that, it would be perfect but it just needs the volume toned down a little. Do you have mufflers pick out?
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Give it some run time first so the computer can do fine tuning. That will sometimes settle the idle down and smooth it out.
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keep us informed on how you clean the injectors... where can you have it done... how much? My LS1 has been sitting for about a year as well... just trying to plan ahead when i get it installed.
Great Build... love seeing the progress. |
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Congrats on your build and your start up. I just started my Vortec 454 up for the first time today. Fired right up! I only ran it for about 2 minutes Im still waiting on my oil cooler. I just put a piece of hose with some clamps between the lines just to loop it together... But I know how you feel! I was great feeling after all this work. Anyway- I was wondering how many ports does your power steering pump have? Mine has three and 1 is the main pressure line and one is return and one is vent, but I cant tell which one is vent and which one is return. If yours has three- which one is which and what did you do with the vent line?
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I think some pumps are setup with extra ports for hydroboost? Mine looks like it has to high and 2 low pressure fittings.
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I haven't plumbed mine yet....still pondering. May buy an earlier pump to simplify things before its all over. :lol:.
high pressure is all oyu'd need to worry about. the low pressure ones are returns anyway...so capping one shouldnt be a prob. |
Re: '67 5.3L Build Thread
I sent my fuel injectors to Engine Performance Injectors in Whittier, CA. It was $190 OTD and they are somewhat local to me so I saved on shipping. Their phone number is (562) 693-8236 on web is fuelinjectors.com. The guy seemed pretty knowledgable. I'll post again when I get them back to see if it helped my irregular idle. The injector guy seemed pretty sure that it would help.
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Great build and great info, im planning on doing an ls swap and you have answered alot of questions that i alredy had in mind, keep up the good work.
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On your fan shroud you will want to fill the gap caused by adding the 1/2" spacers or you WILL have heating problems in the summer if you are stuck in traffic. The air will pull through the gap much easier than through the 4 core radiator causing an over heating condition. You should be able to find some push on weather stripping that will simply push on to the shroud edge and fill the gap. As for you rough idle problem if cleaning the injectors does not work I think run time will be the main issue you will find. All of these EFI motors need several start cycles and run time to self tune. As for the hot and cold header tubes is it possible that may have something to do with this being a D.O.D. motor? Looking forward to getting started on my 2005 5.3L swap for LowBuck here soon. I have the motor and 4L60 sitting on the shop floor with 20K on the ticker as well as the harness and computer from Street and Performance ready to go. I am going to order the ECE mounts from Stan today or Monday then I just need the time. And for those who asked yes stock Camaro manifolds will fit really well in the truck frame. I will go to headers some day but I am un-decided if I want to go with a Turbo set up or charger so until I figure that out I will run the manifolds.
Kevin LFD Inc. |
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Let us know how those injectors work out. keep up the good work.
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I may have missed it but did they wire in the cruise control for you as well? I had Street and performance add the wires for mine but have yet to read about the hook up. The Drive by Wire's make it very easy.
Kevin LFD Inc. |
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Nice work......subscribed.
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Kevin LFD Inc. |
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Get yourself a subsciption for AlldataDIY.com for your 2008 engine and donor vehicle. Download all the prints for the computer and engine controls. That way you can look and see for yourself. On the 2005, it was simply running a 12v supply to a switch. Turn it on, actuates the CC. tap off 12v to a momentary on switch for the set CC and another temporary on switch for the accelerate. You also have to add the 2 pole brake switch for cutting off CC when brakes are touched. Then attach the switches to the wires labeled for those functions on your PCM harness. 2008 though have no idea. Good luck. Just having all those wiring diagrams helps to solve problems that sometimes pop up also. Again good luck with the CC, it's nice having it in these old trucks on long trips.
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Very cheap but effective Cruise Control switch. One on off switch, 2 momentary on switches from radio shack, some sheet metal and wire.
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/a...m/IMG_0560.jpg |
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what is that thing next to it? trailer brake or something? I see the OBDII access port under the ignition.
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Yeh, trailer brake controller. I tow a travel trailer all over the country with it.
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Kevin LFD Inc. |
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I just catch up to everyone else on the freeway and then set my cruise control. And hope eveyone else isn't speeding. I didn't get around to it yet, but i'm probably just going to use one of those Abbot X-box converters that Shon sells for. He's using one and says it works good. Yours "done" yet.
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I was lucky on the wiring. Mine looked in excellent shape. Never touched, butchered. No cracking or anything. And everything worked good. I am going to do the headlight mod for brighter lights though.
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Walter,
Here is that list of parts from Shifty's thread about his build that I was telling you about. I am putting it on my thread just in case anyone else wants it as well. This is a list of all of the Summit parts that I used to build my fuel system. (1) Stock Corvette fuel pressure regulator/filter unit, GM P/N 10299146 $119 (1) 20' spool of -6AN braided steel hose, Summit P/N: SUM-230620 ($74) (1) Russel Fuel rail adapter 10mm->3/8", Summit P/N: RUS-640850 ($16) (1) Custom aluminum tank build by board member Boyds. (2) Earl's -6 AN to 1/4 in. NPT 90º swivel adapter, Summit P/N: EAR-829006ERL ($25/ea) This would be different since the Boyds tank I got uses 3/8" NPT. (4) -6 AN hose ends (hose to -6 AN female), Summit P/N: SUM-220690 ($5/ea) (1) S&P Corvette Fuel Filter adapter 3-piece adapter kit (compression to -6 AN fittings) $100 at www.hotrodlane.cc -> I opted to buy the fuel pressure reg/filter from Pace Performance. It came in a kit with all of the -6 adapter fittings. Hope this helps. |
Re: '67 5.3L Build Thread
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Here are a few pics of the Thermotech sound and heat barrier I am using. It seems like good stuff and at a really good price through Summit. The adhesive is excellent and it follows the contours of the floor nicely.
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Here are a few pics of how I wired up the 2003 Avalanche power seat. I just installed a 2-pin weatherpack connector on a wire designated for the power seats on the AAW accessory harness and then hooked that up to the black and orange wires on the seat. Out of all those wires those are the only ones needed to make it work.
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Spike:smoke: |
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IT was great talking to you yesterday... I appreciate the advice. Thanks for the info on the fuel system setup - will definitely be investigating that.
Can you give me some more info on the fuel filter / regulator you got from Pace? Thanks again |
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PAC-9926 - Pace Pac EFI Fuel Filter with Regulator Package $118.95 This package utilizes an OE 99-03 Corvette fuel filter with a built-in bypass regulator. We've added all the fittings you need to convert this filter to 6AN. This works great with OE high pressure fuel pumps and regulates fuel pressure at 55-60 psi (key on engine off). Works very well with GMPP LS3 fuel injected crate engines. And below is a pic of what you get except for the Summit fittings on there. Just run the -6 line from the pump in the tank to the offset fitting, run a -6 line from the center fitting to the tank return, and a -6 line from the center fitting (all by itself on the other side) to the fuel rail. This takes care of the pressure (regulates to 58 psi) and the filtering. |
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Looks good.
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I bought the Grand Slam lowering and brake kit from CPP. I got it home and found that the billet tie rod adjusters were missing. I called up Bari at CPP and I received them the next day. I have heard some bad things about their customer service, but so far they seem pretty good to me. Hopefully I won't have some of the install issues that I have also heard about. Just a note...I found that this kit will not hook up to the factory hard brake lines, so you also have to buy a line kit to go along with the Grand Slam to complete the install. I will post pics once installed.
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