Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Ok. Re-worked the control assembly and it is now finished and functioning perfectly. Heater hoses and heater valve are in, the pressure lines are cut to length, but need to be crimped. Also worked on installing the compressor, which proved to be a fun time, since it didn't want to align with my serpentine setup. The bracket kit I used is from Nostalgic Air, made to convert an R4 mount to a Sanden, but the spacing was off by 1/4". Dunno if it was made for a different year setup, or my clutch is different, but a few shims took care of it and it seems to run true. We'll see once I start the engine again, which will be as soon as the Blazer tank goes back in...

The engine bay is looking a lot different than it did before- not sure if it's for the better or worse. I don't particularly like the look of the A/C, but it's form over function. Funny, most of the work I've done (wiring, plumbing, painting, etc) doesn't really show in pictures :waah: but at least I know it's done right.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Gringo,... does the hose placement have to be "exactly" where you put it in your pics?
I wonder why these A/C companies don't allow you to move the hoses to a different location?
(i.e closer to the engine or closer to the fender)

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Started working on installing my cheesy stereo 'system' :cool: These truck box speakers came with the truck when I got it and have been bouncing around behind the seat not functioning for a while. Somewhere along the way, the power wire shorted to ground and smoked the other amp.

I simplified the setup by using only one amplifier and got to install my first piece of bed wood :) - I used it to build a mount for the amp (better than being wood-screwed to the cab floor like it was before) that will also serve to tie the boxes together and help keep them from sliding all over the cab. Worked some on wiring the head unit too- it is getting VERY tight behind the dash with all the new components installed. I'm still trying to figure out how I'm gonna route the A/C ducting...

Hopefully no one steals my cheesy speakers. I know they look cool, but they're really cheap crap :lol:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

On the firewall, yes. The fittings come off of the main unit there, so no real room for any changes.

The compressor end is actually better than what they would have you do. The kit is intended to have the fittings on top of the compressor, with a long, sweeping, spaghetti-mess of hoses covering the passenger side of the engine compartment. Considerable time was spent shortening the routing of the hoses by re-clocking the compressor mounting and trying to make things look 'cleaner'. I am still overall not very satisfied with the look of it...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I think it looks great.
Even better when the windows are up,... on a 90 degree day.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Haha- yeah, not sweating will be nice :) Finding a way to correct the aesthetics will give me something more to do after it's 'done'...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

i am dreading the time when it comes to running my ac lines, i am thinking about bringing them forward into the core support , then around inside the top of the fender and into the firewall there so you cant see them but....i havent layed this out so i dont know if it will work or not ??

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

This is a viable option for a show truck, and one I like. Smooth and clean is very appealing to me. I was also thinking about using the stock heater box, re-worked as a 'cover' of sorts. I will have to attack this later though, as I am on a bit of a time crunch right now, and have PLENTY of other stuff to keep me occupied...

Also have to plug my local high-pressure line shop, Bearing Supply and Service. Walked in with my A/C lines, set them on the counter, the guy grabbed them, crimped them, and put them back in my hand in less than a minute. Then, when I asked what I owed him, he said "Have a nice day!" :D I know where I'll be going next time I need bearings or fittings. Not Grainger...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Those are always the best deals and the best places to shop...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Been collecting a few parts and getting ready for some more progress this coming week, but in the meantime, while the kids were watching the 'Tangled' blu-ray for the second time, I decided to have a little truck time- it's always fun to have truck parts in the kitchen :)

I was ready to toss these sill plates in the round file and buy a new set, but remembered seeing someone else around here use CLR on a set to bring them back to life. I figured, what the heck, what do I have to lose but a little time and elbow energy? I'm pretty satisfied with how they turned out- not perfect, but a TON better than before. Besides, if they were perfect, they'd look outta place on this truck...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Hey!! Glad to see you are back at it again..

Darren

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

did you use all three brushes or just stick with the plastic bristle brush?

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks! Question is, when are YOU gonna be back at it? Ready to see some progress on the ol' girl ;)
I used the plastic to spread the CLR around and the brass to scrub the rust off. I did not use the steel bristled at all. They're from a $1 kit from Harbor Freight. Not pictured, but also used was steel wool and Barkeeper's Friend, though the majority of the rust was off by the time I got to the BKF, so the results were negligible from it.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Almost there, just a few "business" related things that make me the real money.

Just trying to get rid of a few other projects like the Jimmy, then the crew cab, then all I have is 2..

Darren

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Laid some 'insulation' today. It will be better for sound dampening than anything else, but this truck is getting a rubber mat, so every little bit helps. It also sealed about ten little holes that POs had drilled in the floorpan :) I'm lining the inside of the doors and panels as well to try to get rid of some of the 'tinny' sound and rattles... Should start to see some real progress again tomorrow :chevy:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Haha- yeah I can relate. Sometimes other things take priority...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Finished wiring the stereo today- this thing has BUMP! Actually sounds pretty good considering the small amount of money invested. Will definitely do for when I get tired of listening to the Maganaflows--that have yet to be installed...

Also managed to get the floormat installed, and covered the seat with the serapes. The boot on the Lokar is a stock manual trans piece. Not sure if I really like the overall look of the interior, but it will do for now. I'm basically done with it except for a few knick-knacks and will be moving on to the bed soon :uhmk:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

seats look great. did you have to use two blankets or did one cover everything?

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I ended up using two. These are truck-stop blankets, which are a little small compared to the others I had. The x-large blankets off eBay would prolly work with just one, but would end up costing more as they are around $50 plus ship. These were $13 each...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

where did you get your rubber floor mat? Quality?

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

those sill plates came out awesome

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

If you don't mind my asking, what Lokar shifter did you use?

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I ordered it from the Truck and Car Shop. I'd say it fits ok. The rubber is nice and heavy and smells good :smoke: I'm hoping as it sits in place for a while that it will lose all of the creases from being rolled during shipping- a hot Louisiana summer should do it. I was told by a board vendor that they are all from the same manufacturer, so I'd get it wherever is cheapest...
Thanks! Look better in pics than in person, but still not bad...
Certainly! Lokar FMS6700BB. It is a floor mount, 16" lever, black anodized knob for a 700R4. Different options will have different part numbers and they have PLENTY of options on their website. Shop around some before you buy- I got a smokin' deal on mine off Amazon...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Feels like a small amount of progress today, but progress nonetheless. I managed to wrap up the behind the dash shenanigans, which involved removing a bunch of stuff I already installed to make room for the A/C ducts. It gets very tight in the center section with speakers, stereo, center vent, ash tray, control unit, and all of their associated wiring/brackets- then trying to stuff three different ducts through there. My hands took a beating, but I am happy to say that the interior is 'complete'.

Also got the seat belts back in (which is 'fun' with the bench installed) and removed the old Grant steering wheel (that has bugged me since I got this truck) to install a new Grant steering wheel. I will have to get used to the increased diameter, but it is definitely better than what was in there :chevy:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks! I've been looking at them trying to find one that looks like a factory manual shifter but was unsure what length etc. I would need. This part number gets me a whole lot closer than I was:D
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Glad I could be of assistance :)

Managed to make some more headway today by tearing the bed to pieces so I can get to work on the underside and complete some body work before paint. I started by giving her a much needed bath. Yes, that is mud splattered on the undercarriage. Never. Again. :sumo: Don't get me wrong, this truck will get driven, and used, but never abused in the mud again. What a pain to clean up. I *think* I finally got it all- or at least most of it...

Oh yeah, played with the bed a little after I removed the 'body lift'. 3" body drop anyone? :chevy:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Next I got busy fixing and modifying my Blazer tank. Two things have been bugging me about it for a while: an inaccurate fuel gauge and a sloooooow fill at the pump. For the gauge issue, I ended up using a stinkin' F*rd part 'cause it was available locally and has to be better than the split barrel float that was NOT floating in there before.

To help remedy the slow fill, I lopped off the tiny filler neck that comes on the poly tank and bolted on a 2" angled unit I got from Tanks, Inc. This also solves the filler neck being hidden behind the bed mount issue :D Also added a 1/2" vent nipple replacing the 3/8 that came on it. Hopefully this thing will fill on full blast at the pump now. Heck, I'd be happy with the first 'click'...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

A few installed pics to show the clearance at the bed mount. This would help clear the bed support even if I didn't have the raised floor...

Also started assembling my exhaust puzzle. I managed to get the head pipes re-angled, welded and mounted (sorry, no pics), and have decided on a mounting path I think will work well with my suspension drop. We'll see, hopefully tomorrow- it gets pretty tight around the axle...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

...and some more today. Started making that pile of pipes into an exhaust. I began by putting the truck up on stands and burying the axle in the notch- I know if it clears like this, it should have no problem at ride height :)

First I routed the headpipes back to the trailing arm crossmember cutouts. These were just straight pieces, basically. It will get an h-pipe behind the trans, if I can make it fit. Then started the real fun. I used a 2-by to mimic a bed cross-sill and kept the mufflers between it and the trailing arms. in the vice you can see I marked the appropriate position on the truck and then bench welded the over-axle and over-arm tubes...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

This is as far as I got today. It is TIGHT around the axle/panhard/frame/shocks/tank area. Managed to squeeze it all in there, though :chevy: I kept the over-axle tubes low enough to clear a bed cross-sill as well. The pipes exit to either side of the tank- I have a few more bends to bring them back to the bumper and need to re-route the rear brake line, that some PO 'fabbed' up. It is just kinda laying there now- I need to weld up some hangers, too...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Nice work on the exhaust...I bet you can't wait to fire it up!

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Thanks! I hope it has a little rumble- the mufflers are pretty small :bo2: Dunno how I'll drive the truck without the exhaust smell; it had become such a part of its character...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I can appreciate the effort as I've been mocking mine up this week too.

I went by Northern Tool today @ lunch & got some stainless wire for the welder. After work I started making my alignment 'tool' for tacking all the bends together 'in place' in the chassis. I'll weld it up on a pipe stand.

What mufflers are they? How much was the pipe kit?

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I now have MUCH respect for the guys that do exhaust work every day. This is not as easy as it looks- every little adjustment affects everything else on down the line- you are constantly tweaking it to get it 'just so'. I will do as you are doing- get it all tacked together and then finish weld on the bench- this way, I will be sure it is fully welded and can put a coat of high-temp on the seams to slow the rust.

The muffs are Magnaflow, um, I couldn't tell ya. Been a while since I bought them. They, like many things that ended up on this truck, were intended for the Blazer. I do know they were some of the smallest I could get in a 2.5" in/out. You can see straight through them- I wanted to do something other than flows- I must be getting old :lol:

I think I paid $199 for my Flowmaster U-fit kit a while back- they are now $239 through Summit, and the stainless is $279. Looking back, I should have gone stainless, but this is what I had on hand. Show us some pics when you start working it :)

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Does anyone see anything wrong with these shocks? Notice how there is nothing holding them compressed, yet they are fully collapsed- I'd say they're smoked :smoke: Luckily, I picked up a set of Monroes on Amazon for, get this, $6 each with super saver shipping! I love that site for smokin' deals...

I wanted to get them installed to make sure my clearances were still gonna be good with the larger shock body. The pics (taken at slightly higher than ride-height) show just how tight it is around that area- I'm trying to keep at least 1/2" clearance between the exhaust and anything else, so I may have to do some tweaking around the shocks- we'll see. the pics make it look closer than it really is...

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Check out Lakeroadsters build thread for his upper rear shock mod. He built a simple new bracket that raised the shock mount & relocates it further back helping to stand the shock more upright. That might help increase your clearance & give you a little better shock performance.

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

nice work

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I remember seeing those- I'll go check 'em out again...
Thanks! :uhmk:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

Completed the front section of the exhaust this afternoon. What fun, taking a 2" hole saw to a freshly installed set of pipes :devil:

I tacked the H-pipe assembly together on the truck, then removed it to finish weld on the bench. Turned out pretty nicely- it tucks up higher than the trans pan, just behind the crossmember and under the tailshaft. It will remain completely removable with band clamps on the pipes at the t-arm crossmember. I am not particularly happy with how my welds are looking on this exhaust- the beads seem to want to 'build-up' on me- I'll hafta play with the settings some when I finish weld the over-axle pipes...

Included a few pics of the hangers I'll be using. They're called 'Snappers'. I used them once before, on my Blazer (the red ones) and liked them, so I picked up four more to use on rear sections. They're blue 'cause the red ones were $5 each- the blue $2 on eBay :chevy:

Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
 

I've been having the same problem. I slowed the wire speed to the point where it wanted to melt itself to the tip. Speed it up enough to compensate & I get more 'peak' on the weld than desired. I didn't get a chance to try another gas mix to see if there might be some improvement.

Do you have a link for the hanger bushings? I know of one source but other choices aren't a bad thing ;) .