Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

Nice sell on Silver Streaker Vic, your work on your truck really set the bar high for guys that are restoring vehicles. Hope you made some of your money back on it. It really was impressive the work you did on it.
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Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

Awesome!!! Please don't go to Sedalia just for me. I will hopefully be able to work on it some next week. I will be busy Monday thru wed but hoping Thursday and Friday I will be working on it. I still need to get the rust cleaned up and buy some dynamat and primer/sealer
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Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

Thanks, Scott. We did okay ... hopefully well enough to finish CRLS and our '57 Ford.

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

Nope, we planned a trip to see my Dad anyway, so just taking care of a little truck work on the side. Give me a call when you're ready. Won't take long to fit the piece in.

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

Vic,
I know the other day we had a discussion about your long bed to shortbed conversion. I had mentioned to you about me buying some of the lower rear patch panels for behind the wheel. I said to you that I had bought some patch panels that were made for a swb bed.. I was mistaken.. i believe i used the long bed ones and cut them down.. However with that said I did run across these on ebay. I am not sure the fitment and if it is what you would need but they do say they are for a SWB truck bed.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/350731780282...84.m1423.l2649

http://www.ebay.com/itm/230940043539...84.m1423.l2649

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

Looks great Vic. Really love the attention to detail you put into everything.

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

Looks good! Keepin' it Rollin'!
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Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

I probably need to email them and double check. It's listed as being for a shortbed fleetside, but the 34 x 12 measurement is for a long bed. Will let you know what I find out.

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

Thanks guys, I got all the spotwelds cut today. Still need to do some grinding where a PO brazed a section of the old roof panel to the drip rail. At that point I'll be able to test fit the new roof skin. Then, it gets flipped onto its backside so I can remove sections of the floor and firewall. However, that will have to wait for Tuesday as I'm headed back over to Topeka tomorrow for engine installation duty. Will post some pics later this week.

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

:metal:

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

Well my love/hate relationship with reproduction panels continues. Prepped the roof perimeter this morning, tidied up a bit, then laid the new roof skin in place. It's close, but no cigar. Will have to spend a little time with the shrinker and stretcher to get a better fit, especially along the rear seam. It needs to fit really well along that area since I have no good way to clamp it down. More to come...

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

Thats not the worst fitting panel I've ever seen but it is certainly dissapointing that the rear seam doesn't fit better.

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

A couple of pie slices and some hammer and dolly work and voila! C-clamps and vise grips will take care of the rest...

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

Man that made a huge difference on fitment, top notch work as always Vic.

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

How do you get access to weld that back up? Can you access that from inside the cab? I just picked up a 67 rustbucket with a hole in the roof rear corner at the seam. Gotta figure out a fix.

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

Well there's no access for a welder that's for sure. There's a tutorial here on the website for Southern KY Classics that describes how to install it with panel adhesive which is how I plan to do it. I may only use the adhesive on the rear seam and go ahead and spotweld the flange around the drip rail, just haven't decided yet. The nice thing about the adhesive is the flange should end up smoother.

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

With the outer roof skin modified and fitting pretty good, I started work on the inner roof header panel. It was rusted through in a number of places so it had to be replaced. I started by drilling the spotwelds along the windshield pinchweld and the front two on each side where the weatherstrip attaches. I held the repro panel up in the approximate location and marked the outer edges. I then moved in from the marks and cut out the remaining sheetmetal. A combination of cutting wheels and snips did the job. Once the old piece was out, I ground the exposed spotweld dots down and test fit the new panel. It comes a bit wide ...or at least mine did, so I marked it along the edge where it was contacting the A-pillar and trimmed it with snips. It took a number of test fits to sneak up on it and get it to drop in place.

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

At this point I was able to mark the cut lines for the edges of the panel. I did the final trimming and set the panel in place. I could see that the offset where it attaches to the weatherstrip flange was not correct on the driver side, so I used a flanging tool to relocate it to the proper place. I made the final cuts to the existing inner roof panel and clamped the repro panel in place. I had to trim a few more places to get a decent fit, but it looks like it will work. Luckily, as if right on cue, Brian G. showed up and helped hold the roof panel so I could drill a locating hole for a Cleco fastener. I left the old windshield in to make sure the opening stayed true. However, now that the fitment is done, I can remove it so the blaster can get at all the rusty scale. Once it is back from cleanup, I'll spotweld the inner panel to the old inner roof panel and the sides. Then I'll glue the outer roof skin in place. Lastly, I'll spotweld the front of the inner repro panel to the windshield pinchweld. That should help make sure the drip rail / windshield recess doesn't move. Floor is next...

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

It is looking good Vic!
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Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

I have a small window 67 cab that I will have to do almost the same thing to. But the inside of the cab is in perfect shape. I am going to fix this cab up in my spair time. And if Brian is there tell him to quit laughing. About my motor back and forth and back and forth. Anyway I am watching your build. It looks like you have had experence in doing this kind of stuff. I also have to remove the drip rail on the pass side of the cab. The whole drip rail is gone and the same side roof. Never done that before. Any hints.

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

That's a different Brian at his house at the moment.

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

It looks like you are making good progress Vic.
The roof is like swiss cheese on that thing sheesh, it's a good thing you got skills, you need them with this one.

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

Different Brian, but regardless, neither one is here so you're safe. ;)

My first choice would be to locate a donor strip that had a decent drip rail where yours is missing or rotted and graft it onto your cab. Second choice would be to fabricate the drip rail as close as I could get it, then cover it with the stainless trim that's available from most suppliers. Since you'd be covering most of it anyway, it wouldn't need to be absolutely perfect.

I have an old '57 Ford Custom 300 I've been tinkering with for many years and I removed the drip rail completely on it. However, I'm not sure that look would work on these trucks. Maybe if I saw one that was nicely done...

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

Whoof, that's crusty! (Hence, the name!) You're doin' the Lord's work on that 'un, Vic. Can't wait to see, it's gonna be nice when you're done.

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

And speaking of crusty ...here's the view from down under!

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

Here is a thread on it. Done right, they look good. I've seen some that look just down right horrible

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=389735

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

Daaaaang, that's a mess! One sees where the full floor would be a huge advantage. Yeller's was similar, not quite as bad up into the floors. What's the cowl look like? Especially the spot above the fan hole and the lap seam above the glovebox? How you intending to finish out after all this work? Still flat black? I'm surprised you're not shaving the cab back to roof seam. Hell, what's a little more work, right? (LOL)

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

I only wish I had the metal working skills that Vic has.
The stuff most of us take one look at and think screw that it's too far gone, Vic just shrugs and fixes it as easily as tying his shoes haha

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

Oddly enough the cowl and other areas you mentioned are in very good condition. I plan to smooth the firewall and extend it over the fan hole to match the driver side profile. No wiring thru the f/w. You've just about got me off of flat black. I've been mulling Toxic Orange Pearl (aka Mango Tango) 2011 Dodge color. More copper than orange. Still leaning toward a flat topcoat, though.

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

What about the color of the Transformer Camaro?

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

Ummm... Yeller lives just a few miles from here, not sure the neighborhood is big enough for the both of us. ;)

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

WOW, that'd be a lot of yellow in that parta town!

Repeat after me, I will not overbuild, I will not overbuild,.... See if it helps. Probably not. Heh, heh, heh........
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Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

You mean like this???

After welding in some 1x1 braces, I windowed the floor. Found that it has been patched more than once. I really love it when they just keep stacking patch panels one on top of the other. Guess they didn't want their butts hitting pavement. Of course, the seat belt mounts were so rotted out that even a minor accident could still launch driver and passenger thru the windshield. Oh wait! Seatbelts? We don't need no steenkin' seatbelts!

Was forced to leave more of the floor than I wanted across the back. When I cut all the way thru the brace, it got a bit flimsy. MIG'd the cut back up and stepped back a bit on the cut. Still need to drill some spotwelds and remove some sections of the firewall. At that point, what's left of the cab will be ready for media blasting.

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

Looks like someone has been busy today. Great progress!
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Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

Vic, one thing I enjoy about your builds is because your fearless and you do outstanding repairs. Looks like another great build is taking shape.

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

Yep, been going thru cutoff wheels and bi-metal Sawzall blades right and left. The scrap metal pile is growing by leaps and bounds.

I sure hope so, Scott. This one involves a bit more surgery than I'd planned. Hopefully the replacement floor won't be too far out of whack. I've done a firewall before and it fit pretty well. This one will get the smoothie treatment, so I can correct any misalignments while I'm at it. However, the floor really needs to fit. Everything else keys off of it.

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

Daaaaaang! That floor was REALLY strong- in that spot! Good Work!
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Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

I second that.

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

Once again the shop was full of grinding dust. At least until it dawned on me that it was actually a beautiful day outside and I opened up the garage doors to let in some fresh air. Firewall is now largely gone. Added a few more braces to hold the remaining parts of the cab in position. I really love the MIG welder for this kind of stuff. With the TIG, you have to be in a relatively stable position since you need to use both hands. The MIG only requires that you be in the general vicinity and pull the trigger until you get a weld pool that extends onto both parts. It's ugly but it's fast.

I plan to transport the cab to the blaster with the windshield in place and remove it once the cab's loaded on the roll around cart they use in the shop. Still need to do a couple of things ...remove the ashtray and clean up some remaining seam sealer. But I'm really close on the cab. Next up is disassembling the chassis.

Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
 

A while back, I sent some parts out to the metal blaster and ever since, a few rusted spots on the inner fenderwells have been sitting there giving me heartburn. Decided to take a break from the cab and chassis to address the source of the irritation. After trimming back the rusted edges of the rotted areas, I made a few small patterns and transferred them to sheet metal. A bit of tweaking got them in the holes proper and out came the MIG.

I took Chip's advice and bought some EZ Grind wire, so I loaded it into the machine for a test run. Seems to weld real nice, although I probably should have searched a bit harder for .023" wire instead of the .030". It builds up fairly quickly which leaves you more to grind back down. Regardless, I got it all stuck together and finished down sufficiently for a thin skim coat of filler. I recently ordered a gallon of Magnet Paint Chassis Saver Satin Black and will apply it once the areas are prepped. I sprayed anti-spatter around where I was doing the MIG welding and have no idea how that will interfere with paint. Stuff almost looks like silicone going on, and if it is, that's a death sentence for most paints. Guess I need to do some research.