Originally Posted by Paul Y (Post 8958576)

....One small observation re your proportioning valve. I was taught that they should be mounted fore and aft rather than side to side. Now that could be an old wives tale but might want to bear it in mind if you have an issue with your brakes once out on the road with either the rears locking up or not working well.....

P. :D

Originally Posted by Justin71105 (Post 8958930)

If prop valve is an issue will move it up onto master cylinder like alot of tese trucks are done. Just have to run new brake lines in that case, can make them look better if I do that.

The 73 I pulled it off of had it mounted in this same location and position, thats why I chose it.

4L80 was much to expensive to think about, a core is around 1k here, for the price of corr/rebuild I could buy a gearstar trans.

The 4L60 will be built enough to handle any extra power I out on it which I dont plan to do for a long time. Never had an issue out of a 4L60e in any truck Ive owned even with upwards of 300k miles, only time I seen someone have an issue was when putting more power on them or rrally dogging their trucks.

Will have trans built for more than stock hp/tq just to be safe. I am mostly wanting reliable driveability in an old truck, so stock power in this light of a truck will likely be plenty for me.



Hopefully by the end of the year I will be driving it, going to need glass before transmission I think, dont want a cab full of water while sitting at transmission shop. As soon as a transmission is put in I can move it around the yard though.

Originally Posted by Justin71105 (Post 8959836)

Got my front turn/park lights wired up today and tested everything with column wire connector plugged in and headlight switch.

Have to do some troubleshooting on the turn signals, I get park lights all the way around, brake lights work, hazards work but turn signals do not. It actually kills the rear lights completely.

Going to check my wiring again and maybe try another flasher relay if that checks out.

Wiring may be fine since brake lights work and hazards flash on all 4 corners, going to make sure that it is flashing the bright filaments in rear, fronts I made sure to wire bright filament for turn signals... Can't remember on rear been awhile since I wired them, went by color instead of checking which wire was actually for the brighter filament.


So park lights are working in front and rear, brake lights work, hazards work. I have headlight switch plugged in and column, do not have the foot switch in yet since I do not have headlights wired in. Will also be checking how well I am grounded to the frame, I don't remember adding a ground strap to the bed yet.

Originally Posted by TxCajun (Post 8960772)

Those trailer light back-up lights that you found (post #112) are a great idea.

Looks like O'Reilly Auto has those locally for about $12 for a pair.

My truck does not have back-up lights, so I'm going to check those out as an alternative to the reproduction originals that are around $100 for a pair.

Thanks!

Originally Posted by SCOTI (Post 8973949)

I feel your pain.

I had issues w/my rear glass install years ago as well. Three attempts & he basically said he was done w/that 3rd. While the glass is installed, the seal is pinched @ both of the lower L & R corners on the inside. He sourced my glass locally. I sourced the first gasket but he didn't want to use it as he had material he normally used. He destroyed the one I provided (conveniently?) & ultimately used his go-to material for the 2nd/3rd installs.

I sliced relief cuts in the seal so they wouldn't protrude as much. I'm thinking about trying it again on my own.

Originally Posted by Justin71105 (Post 9206093)

I can't figure out how to upload the picture without it being way to big. Resized and uploaded a new one and still its 4000x2700 or something crazy big.

So here's a link to the pics of the bed floor I finally got installed and doors completed.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/672zS3KPy7G8k5St6

Originally Posted by SCOTI (Post 9206137)

Looks good.
What was the floor coating process? Did you go w/pine or oak?

Originally Posted by Justin71105 (Post 9206165)

Oak floor, sanded and then did 3 coats of Valspar darkest night stain/sealer on top/bottom and maybe 2 extra coats on all the sides.

Sanded after the first coat dried but not for any of the others.

Originally Posted by Justin71105 (Post 9251231)

Got my truck back today and its moving under its own power finally after almost 4 long years. She looks like **** though with the door repairs so will likely be replacing the doors next year.

Need to take off the inner door panel and find the mirror mounts so I can drill those holes and weld the other ones drilled. Need to make a mount for the license plate and light.

Get the exhuast welded on and an alignment, bleed the brakes again they are a little spongy.

But it moves on it own now and after a few weeks I should be able to take it on its first outing. Will likely run it to the store this weekend after I bleed brakes once more and next weekend will have my exhaust system and alignment done.

Originally Posted by Justin71105 (Post 9251741)

If the doors are in stock the local shop said they will order them tomorrow with there big order.

Now will just have to drill for mirrors and move over all of my new door parts. Will order another section of window chanel, ripped mine on drivwr side installing it.

Need to do some research on mirror hole placement now, want them in the right spots. Hoping the bracing is in the door for them.

Will throw the universal mirrors on my current door to get on the rd and to the muffler shop.